Looking for Replacement Pins for International 2000 bucket?

[DENOS]

I recently aquired this International 656, with an International 2000 loader; the tractor had the motor rebuilt a few years ago and has about 400 hrs since it was rebuilt and appears to run great.  But the pins are not the correct pins for the loader and I went to Case dealer today and they told me they don't make very many replacement parts for this tractor. 

I just ordered a operators manual on ebay for it a few minutes ago.

I was just wondering if someone could tell me the part numbers or the actual sizes for the pins, so I can see if I can find replacement pins, before I use this bucket too much. 

Thanks in advance

[jfkleinrt]

If these pins are no longer available, you can have them made at a machine shop; they can also machine the holes where the pins go so that they are perfectly round again and the play is eliminated.

[MTB98]

Here are the manuals for the loader. Also a good place to get more manuals for your 656. 
 

https://peacefulcreek.com/product/international-2000-tractor-loader-parts-operators-manual-set-catalog-owners/

[stronger800]

The loader is a completely separate machine from the tractor, saying if you were looking for a loader part…you wouldn’t even mention “656”.  You can get 656 parts.  Probably not loader parts though. For the last 20-30 years. But like that said, you just need pins. You can use Any pin or heavy rod, that fits tight, or tighter than what you have, and cut it to length to look nice.   I recently seen a guy with one that had Chevy 1500 truck axles cut for pins.  (Wasn’t pretty) it he says they fit perfect.  

[HydroTek]

4140 steel would make good pins

should be a common diameter 

if the holes are worn -- then larger pins or have the bushings replaced (welded on)

[just Dave]

Once worn sloppy, it is past replacement part territory. You need to choose to have a machine shop repair it, or repair it wth a Machinists skills yourself, or use it the way it is. If you are doing a bit of general loader work, it should be fine for some time with some slop. If you are trying to cut a grade a sloppy bucket can be a pain, it that isn’t what that loader or tractor was made for anyway.  I should stress that the best pin in the world will not do much good if it is put in a sloppy hole. 

[stronger800]

It could very well make it 75% better though. And for a 50 year old tractor….likely be just fine 

[just Dave]

4 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

It could very well make it 75% better though. And for a 50 year old tractor….likely be just fine 

Better how, a bail or a bucket of manure doesn’t know the difference?

[Jeff-C-IL]

I would point out that many farmers replaced the "correct" pins with ordinary hitch pins on loaders - it made it easier to remove the bucket to put on a bale spear, etc.    Having a loop handle and and a clip pin was a lot easier than a bolt to remove and then hammer & punch.   

If you plan to leave the bucket in place - then reinstalling the "proper" pins makes sense.  That looks to be a 2000 loader - I have one laying in the yard right now, with the pins out.   Will look into getting some pics.

Edit:  Went out and measured the pins -  1.095" diameter and just a shade over 7" long.

The hole is 5/16" in form the end, approx. ~ 0.3" diameter for a 1/4" bolt - and offset slightly.   IDK if thats normal - but all 4 pins were the same.   Offset looks to be ~ 0.12-0.15" off center - hard to measure as the holes are egged out a little.

This loader had plenty of use - but the bushings in the loader arms are replaceable, and the bolts keep the pins from turning in the bucket holes, so the pins were pretty tight.

 

 

 

[stronger800]

Any attempt that he makes to make the pins fit tighter, will make the loader better in my mind. Who really wants there to be slop in their pins. Butbthe reality is, most old loaders have it

[stronger800]

I am pretty sensitive to excess wear  in anything.  I’m the guy that has  replaced spindle and axle bushings before, only to realize there wasn’t .020” wear (total) after setting them against the new one.   And that new aftermarket replacements often don’t fit that great.  
 

I fabricate protective sleeves for my drawbars, bolted through hammer strap holes,  so that implements  do not wear into the original drawbars themselves.  Then you also  get the added benefit in that the thickness of the sleeve takes away some of the vertical potential for bounce  in the hitch. Tighter is just better.  
I’ve never tried those heavy plastic drawbar savers, but I hear they are excellent too

[Jeff-C-IL]

The plastic wear disks are great.    I use them on everything - not only do they resist the wear, they remove that vertical bounce (sprayer that is balanced too well!)    A tillage tool with the loop hitch, they really take a beating- which only shows how much goes onto the drawbar.

[Matt Kirsch]

None of these answers ask an important question: "Wrong pins," HOW? How are they wrong? Everyone assumes they are badly worn. Is that the case? Or, did someone use some undersized draw pins, bolts, or random pieces of round bar as makeshift pins? 

I mean, the easiest way to address this is to remove one or more of the wrong pins and measure the holes. You're going to need to remove them anyway to replace them.

The pins are likely 1-1/8" in diameter. You can get 1-1/8" draw pins at your local tractor supply or other farm fleet type store. Knock the handles off, cut them to length, and cross-drill for a retaining pin, or just use as-is.

[stronger800]

I’ve never drilled a draw pin.  I’ve assumed they were hard, but maybe not? I’ve seen a big one bent into an S shape, so probably not too hard.  I have drilled a lift cylinder pin, it was oddly soft, that one anyway 

[Gearclash]

On 7/28/2026 at 9:31 AM, HydroTek said:

4140 steel would make good pins

should be a common diameter 

if the holes are worn -- then larger pins or have the bushings replaced (welded on)

1045 will make as good a pin for less cost — unless 4140 is heat treated. 

[Matt Kirsch]

17 hours ago, stronger800 said:

I’ve never drilled a draw pin.  I’ve assumed they were hard, but maybe not? I’ve seen a big one bent into an S shape, so probably not too hard.  I have drilled a lift cylinder pin, it was oddly soft, that one anyway 

They're pretty soft. You don't want them hardened because they'd snap the first time the load jerked.

[7and8and1456]

Pin is  #9... 378559R1. Google searched  that number brought no results. Get them made at a machine shop. 

[acem]

Just use drawbar/hitch pins that fit from your local farm supply store.

That's what everyone round here does.

[Jeff-C-IL]

That is what I meant by hitch pins to make removing the bucket easier.    But the size - I measured the pins above - 1.095"   Unworn, tight, pounded out.   Thats basically  1-1/16" - not a common hitch pin size.   So you put in 1" - and its floppy.   1-1/8" won't fit.    

If for some reason the pins I measured are not the normal size for the 2000 loader - somebody double check??

[Gearclash]

Original was probably 1.100".  1-1/8" is 1.125", 1-1/16 is 1.0625".  1.1" is an odd duck though.  

[MTB98]

Look for 28mm pins instead of 1.1” pins. Maybe McMaster-Carr. 

[HydroTek]

Seen a lot of loaders over the years

most farm loader buckets do not fit all that well after years of no grease
if there is less than 1/4" play -- it is Farmer good 

easy enough to weld in new bushings and make the pins whatever size you want 
or better yet , weld on a skid loader coupler and then can interchange buckets without driving pins in and out 

Those pins were an odd size as I remember
possible metric -- never measured them 

[midnightman]

Made lots over the years. 1045 shaft usually, farm supply store draw pin if I didn’t have any 1045 th right size in stock. Pins on a loader that age should be a standard inch or fractional size. Replaced some of the pins on my 2001 loader and there was nothing special about them. Would measure them, but it’s been gone for 20 years now 

[stronger800]

30 years ago, maybe more, we would bend the lift cylinders on our 2000 Loader every so often. Local machine shop would take the cylinder apart and build a new rod for I think $150 back then.  Maybe it was 200, It was not chrome, but rust was not a concern since we kept the cylinders retracted and inside. We bent both of the originals. the replacements, I think we only bent one.  Machine shop was always busy, but he would fix something for you in a day or two

[7and8and1456]

On 7/30/2026 at 7:18 AM, 7and8and1456 said:

Pin is  #9... 378559R1. Google searched  that number brought no results. Get them made at a machine shop. 

Bushings used in 2000 loader is same as used in 2350 loader , therefore pin is the same. Pin #9 in 2000 loader is same as pin used on 2350 loader., however 378 559 R1 is changed to 1329594C1. Further research shows pin diameter to be 28.57 mm = 1.1248031 inches ( nominal size 1-1/8 inches. I measured a good pin that I have and my vernier calipers showed 1.124 inches. Get some 1-1/8 cold rolled shaft, may have to have machine shop turn it down 2 thousandths but I doubt it because the bushings they fit in have inside diameter of 28.85 mm =1.135 inch .