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About 7and8and1456

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    NW N.Carolina

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  1. 7and8and1456

    756 power beyond?

    I have also wondered if a closed-one-side valve could be modified to operate like open-both-side valve. Not that I will ever need one, but the next time I have both valves off one of my tractors , I will closely examine them to see if it could indeed be done. Another thing; I would like to see an original IH power beyond installed on two valves under the seat without cutting holes in the left side seat support. Some say it can be done. I'd like to see it. I've done some researching of IH parts catalogs for 06 and 56 series tractors and have learned something about IH auxiliary valves and power beyond covers available for them. The first 06's had two aux. valves ( #383267 R92 ) from the factory. Both valves were of the open-both-side style. There was either a bolt on cover or a power beyond cover attached to the outside valve. The power beyond cover had threaded holes to install hydraulic plumbing into it. It has holes aimed to the rear. The power beyond cover for the early 06 tractors is number 398316 R1 . Later production tractors could still have two aux. valves but the outside valve (390826 R92) was a closed-one-side valve. Tractors so equipped could not use power beyond unless outside valve was replaced with open-both-side valve. When 56 series started, two valve tractors had the same as late 06 tractors . The power beyond for 56 , 26 and 66 tractors is number 395316 R1. It has holes aimed to the left toward the left seat support. Look at the diagrams below to see the difference in the power beyond covers. The early 06 power beyond with holes aimed to the rear ( 398316 R1) could be used without altering the left seat support. How could a 56, 26, and 66 series power beyond ( 395316 R1 ) with holes to the side be used without altering seat support? be used without altering the seat support?
  2. 7and8and1456

    756 power beyond?

    As to whether power beyond piping will interfere with hydraulic seat , consider this: There is about 2-1/2 " space between the left seat support and the edge of second valve (1st picture, below). The power beyond that you pictured with the two 90 degree ells would work if total width of power beyond plate and ells is less than the space. You could position the ells turned toward the front of the tractor and attach lines from them coming forward from under the seat. Then make a 90 degree turn to the right in both lines above the floor deck and then route them as necessary to where ever your loader joystick is located. Rubber hose could of course be used, but if I were doing it, I would have steel piping with necessary connections and then have them bent to fit where they need to run. Paint them red and it would make a nice looking job. An original IH power beyond could easily be used if there were only one aux. valve under the seat. Two valves , I believe would require cutting holes in the left seat support to attach hydraulic lines leading to your point of use, your loader joystick valve. Be advised that should you make holes in left side seat support that there is about 2-1/2 inches of clearance between the seat support and the hydraulic seat frame box ( painted black), so you again need to have connections that will clear in this space. I have a tractor with the hydraulic seat , 2nd picture below. It has never had the red sheet metal shielding that is shown in 3rd picture. Should you install power beyond and route lines to the front and then 90 degrees to the right as I described above, it will be necessary to remove the shield and not reinstall it.
  3. 7and8and1456

    756 power beyond?

    You say your tractor has "dual remotes". Does it have two valves under the seat and two long operating levers to the right of the seat? Tractor with two valves is seen in picture below. If your tractor has two valves, use the open both side valve in your picture to replace the open one side valve now on your tractor. If your tractor has only one valve under the seat, you are going to need to find another open both side valve. The item in ebay link is not a valve, it is right side seat support, item 8 in parts diagram below. 56 and 66 series use the same seat support, as numbers are identical. Auxiliary valves are numbered differently in 56 and 66, however I see no reason that they could not be interchanged from one series to another. In order to use power beyond, it will require TWO open both side valves stacked together under the seat and then the power beyond cover is attached using bolts through the valves and into the right seat support. The power beyond cover that you have is different than an IH original ( 2nd parts diagram below) . IH original appears that it would require making holes through the cast steel left side seat support in order to attach hydraulic lines to it. Yours with the two elbows might be usable without altering the left seat support.
  4. 7and8and1456

    Bookkeeping software for farm use

    I have used Farm Biz since 2006. Designed for farm and ranch operations. Easy to learn and use. Download the free trial demo and try it out. Buy it one time, but new updates become available should you want it. However, it is not necessary to update if you do not want to. http://www.farmbiz.com/biz1.htm
  5. 7and8and1456

    Never seen this before 66 cab on 06?

    I got this picture off the web a few years ago. May have been here on Red Power. Also got a picture of an H with a cab.
  6. There is a post on YT ( https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=2013198 ) regarding repair of worn ball in the front end of 3 point lower link on a 706. Visit the link and read all comments to the guy needing advice. Most replies said get a new Cat.II end , cut the worn one off and weld in a new one. I replied with what I know about those hitch link ends . New Cat.II ball is not same as what IH has in front ball in the lower link. What else, other than replacing the guy's entire lower link, could be done to solve his problem?
  7. 7and8and1456

    Found this on an abandoned farm today

    I remembered seeing this photo in a 1967 Buyers guide.
  8. 7and8and1456

    International Loader

    In the picture of the tractor with the 2001 loader, the tractor could be either a B275 or B414. Mountings for both tractors were the same. My operator manuals and parts books for both 2001 and 2000 show mounting brackets for 424 tractor also later model 444. Probably not much difference in frame of these models and the even later model 454 tractor. They were made to fit the tractors , but they are heavy and have loading capacity that would be a lot to impose on those small tractors front axles and spindles.
  9. 7and8and1456

    International Loader

    Some more info from brochures. 1550, 1850 and the earlier built 1501 for 424 tractors (could possibly mount on 454, 464 also.)
  10. 7and8and1456

    International Loader

    A brochure from the early 1970's has the 2050A loader as the one built for that design of tractor.
  11. 7and8and1456

    Chain saw collectors ?

    The Homelite that I pictured in my post above, has the manual oiler.
  12. 7and8and1456

    Chain saw collectors ?

    Those were/are good powerful saws for their size. I have a Stihl 031AV electronic model that I bought new in 1980. Electronic ignition module failed some years ago and Stihl dealer said part no longer available. Was talking to a friend who is small engine repair shop owner about it. He said he could put a new generic aftermarket module on it somewhere and get it going. I have the Homelite "Zip" chainsaw that my father bought about 1960. This forum topic made me think about it, so I went to the shed and made pictures ( below ). It ran when parked about 1982. I pulled the starter rope , engine is free and popped with compression. Maybe someday I'll get it running , clean it up and paint it.
  13. 7and8and1456

    Buying parts these days.... for anything

    A year ago I needed some of the tiny plastic seal rings that seal the injector fuel line banjo fittings to the Roosa Master injection pump on 856 D407 engine . Two fittings were leaking badly. I called nearest dealer , 75 miles away. They had some at $5.05 each. Had to have some ASAP, so they sent 4. Cost $3.99 to package and ship by US Mail, but had them next day. Found some on internet a few days later for .22 cents each. Shipping for only 12 of them was going to be crazy high for a tiny amount of plastic. On the site I saw some IH OEM transmission gaskets that I would need to have later for a job. They were half price of IH dealers, so I ordered them also. Total value of all items was enough to drop the shipping (US Mail) charge (from a few hundred miles away), to very reasonable amount. The seal rings and gaskets were not aftermarket supplied, they were in original IH packaging.
  14. 7and8and1456


    To add to what stronger800 said. The purpose of setting the two "fixed" clamps first, is to set the rim parallel and true to the wheel. When a tire/rim is removed and reinstalled to the wheel, many people just install the clamp blocks one after another as they pick them from the pile they were put in when removed. This will result in a rim that is not installed true and the tire/rim will wobble when rotating. I got behind a tractor on the road once and both rear tire/rims were wobbling something bad. Place blocks in front and back of one rear tire so tractor can not roll. Jack up other side of tractor. Release park lock. Rotate raised rear wheel to put rim driving lugs ( the bumps) up, between 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock position. Install the fixed blocks at 90 degrees and tighten. Loosely install all the other blocks. I always tighten two near the bottom, then two at the sides then the rest of them. Place a bar , a wrench or other item on the tractor deck or the blocks your jack is sitting on and have the end of it at a point where it is close to the rim. Rotate the wheel and watch as the rim passes by your pointer device. This will show any amount that the rim is out of true. If out of true, loosen and tighten adjustable clamps as necessary to get rim/wheel running true.
  15. 7and8and1456


    Those are the clamp type wheel centers. Now I'm going to show you some things about correctly mounting wheels to rims as yours are not correct. Your wheel has the rim clamp blocks at locations circled in my last picture below. They should be located at points where arrows indicate. Scan from operator manual and pictures with captions will explain it.