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About 7and8and1456

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    NW N.Carolina

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  1. Will that hay be usable after rain and snow melt runoff from the plastic cover over the silage pile?
  2. Did any 1456 gold demos have a cab on them ?
  3. Wheel weights would be usable.
  4. You are asking about getting the spring hooks removed from the flat bar, right? Since they are broken springs and now useless, grab the spring with locking pliers , and apply some heat from an acetylene welding torch ( small tip) to the hook portion of the spring. Bend it enough to slip hook out of the hole. Installing new one will require some prying with large flat screwdriver and tapping side of spring with a hammer . It has been a long time since I replaced springs on a seat, but I've got to do the same thing on one of my tractors soon.
  5. ASAP has one . Click link to see it! https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/used-ford-8000-tractor-parts-eq-32382.html?utm_source=email&utm_campaign=0919Salvage&sc_src=email_957056&sc_lid=100835958&sc_uid=GmdjVZ3fpL&sc_llid=75675&sc_eh=543bd4762d2bb2821
  6. "I would expect the hydraulic assist to feel the same either way. If you have both maybe you can tell me " The effort it takes to push the hyd clutch control pedal on my 1456 with its larger diameter clutch and pressure plate is the same as my 756 with hyd clutch pedal on smaller diameter pressure plate. Hydraulics makes it so easy that you can do it with just flex of your ankle on either tractor The 1456, before installing the hydraulic clutch control. took about everything your left leg could deliver to push it in . And, if you had to hold it in, it was tough. My 856 does not have hydraulic clutch control. It is a tough one . My wife can't hold it in without a struggle and it gets tiring for me if much clutching is required.Tractor has a loader on it.
  7. Picture of an 800 sprayer from a 1976 IH Buyers guide... Also if you are interested, some earlier model IH sprayers from 1970 buyers guide.
  8. I found this article about a homemade hyd. clutch control in a Farm Show Magazine issue from 1998. Perhaps that is what I was remembering. https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=11844
  9. Some years ago someone here on Red Power showed pictures of and described how he built his own hydraulic clutch control using a small hydraulic cylinder and some sort of control valve he used . It was installed on an 06, a 56 or possibly a 66 tractor. Anyone remember seeing that thread ?
  10. "So basically you in the end just used the linkage and or booster? So if i am understanding everyone correctly i could probably find a newer style pedal and linkage to improve, or newer linkage and drill my pedal, or put a whole booster setup on there. Is that correct " The first Hyd. Clutch control unit I bought from salvage yard came with the tall pedal, the hyd. cylinder with front and rear rods, the mounting bracket and the hyd. tubes. I had to buy one hyd. fitting from IH dealer. I did not like the tall pedal so I drilled new holes in my standard pedal. The second unit I got from salvage yard was just the hyd. cylinder with front and rear clutch rods. (There may have been hyd. tubes , I really do not remember). There was no mounting bracket, so I made one myself as I had one for pattern. The tall clutch pedal was not with it either , so I drilled the standard one as I did before. Of the three things you mentioned above, the best thing you could do is get the hyd. clutch control. It will make a world of difference to you. 2nd best would be the taller pedal and clutch rod used with it. It would make some difference in the amount of force required to push in the clutch due to the geometry of the locations of the pivot points and the fact that pedal is longer, therefore it moves a little farther to move the load of pushing the clutch rod. If a shorter factory rod could not be found simply shorten the long original rod by cutting needed length from it and welding back together. Your 3rd idea, I'm afraid would be disappointing. I believe that due to changing the location of the rod pivot point, the geometry of the short standard pedal, its pivot point and new location of rear rod pivot point would actually require more force applied to the pedal to get the clutch pushed in. I saw a complete hyd. clutch unit on ebay . Look for IH clutch booster kit. $895. Said he would knock off $50 if you do not need clutch pedal. ( Drill new holes in your standard pedal).
  11. I bought a hydraulic powered clutch control unit from a salvage yard many years ago to install on my 756. It definitely made it easier to push in the clutch pedal. After buying the 856 , I acquired one to install on it. A few years later I bought the 1456. The 1456 had a VERY HARD to push in clutch, so I moved the hyd. unit from 856 to 1456. It made the 1456 pedal very easy to push. The hyd. units are sensitive to the touch and inexperienced operators of my 756 have difficulty in "feathering" the clutch when backing up to hitch or otherwise need to move the tractor only an inch or two. No problem for me as I have much experience which gives me the "feel" for it. Images below show parts book page for the hydraulic clutch control unit and several images of the two styles of clutch pedals ( standard and hyd. unit ) . Captions on images explain how I modified standard clutch pedal to be able to use it with hyd. control unit. I did not like the taller clutch pedal that came with one of the salvaged units that I bought ( did not feel "right" to me ), so I modified the standard pedal to use it.
  12. Blaine, where did you have that one hidden the day that I visited????
  13. Inoperative PTO is probably the tiny pin ( # 27) that connects the control valve spool parts listed in item 21 in this parts diagram, linked from Case IH . Relatively simple to repair , just need to do some wrenching . The last time I did one I did not buy pin from Case IH. I took a tiny roller needle from a used u-joint cup and bearing. It was the right diameter. Just shortened it a little on a bench grinder. Beat paying Case IH price. https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html?csid=e6722205555ed06c7c005c2936722814&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr57669ar1274721
  14. My 756 and 856 are both Custom models. They did not have the full coverage battery covers but rather had just the battery hold down angle bar, # 6 seen below in parts diagram. The full coverage sheet metal has identical bar welded to it. Full covers may look nice but they get corroded. Without them you can easily see battery top, check fluid level in them or access post for cleaning.
  15. Does the 66 series tractor Operator manuals have diagrams such as these from my 56 series ?
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