tommyw-5088 Posted September 21, 2025 Posted September 21, 2025 supppose a fellow put in the eliminator kit and unplugged one side of the high low , and used one set of gears . I got this idea from another place , but if you just used either high or low , it would eliminate locking in 2 gears and burning up clutch packs , Hate to throw a 1500$ sentry in a tractor thats most important job is sitting in the shed . 1 Quote
acem Posted September 21, 2025 Posted September 21, 2025 Mike Links (Triple R Tractors) sells a Sentry replacement for $1550. He's a forum member and great guy. I've thought the same thing to keep around as a backup. Ideally you would ground out the solenoids on the side not used so you don't get some stray voltage issue. Quote
jass1660 Posted September 21, 2025 Posted September 21, 2025 If you don’t want to fix it properly just sell it. 3 Quote
Matt Kirsch Posted September 21, 2025 Posted September 21, 2025 Honestly I think you could achieve the same thing by simply installing the TEST HARNESS (not "elimination kit") and not shifting it between evens and odds. OR, simply coming to a complete stop before shifting between evens and odds. Some people get away with running the test harness and slamming gears back and forth all day and will tell you this Sentry stuff is a bunch of hooey to get you to spend money you don't have on something you don't need... Whatever... If it's just going to sit in the shed, it won't matter much. Do you have an actual Sentry problem or are you just trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist? 1 Quote
tommyw-5088 Posted September 21, 2025 Author Posted September 21, 2025 56 minutes ago, jass1660 said: If you don’t want to fix it properly just sell it. because its a family tractor and i dont use itb. 1 Quote
tommyw-5088 Posted September 21, 2025 Author Posted September 21, 2025 7 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said: Honestly I think you could achieve the same thing by simply installing the TEST HARNESS (not "elimination kit") and not shifting it between evens and odds. OR, simply coming to a complete stop before shifting between evens and odds. Some people get away with running the test harness and slamming gears back and forth all day and will tell you this Sentry stuff is a bunch of hooey to get you to spend money you don't have on something you don't need... Whatever... If it's just going to sit in the shed, it won't matter much. Do you have an actual Sentry problem or are you just trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist? it will move for 30 minutes , then quit until the next day . Then move again fine . Its hardest job is moving around my empty goseneck . Quote
tommyw-5088 Posted September 21, 2025 Author Posted September 21, 2025 a little update , just tried it and now it wont move at all , so somthing changed with it parked . Bout time to call Mike links 1 1 Quote
acem Posted September 22, 2025 Posted September 22, 2025 You need to diagnose the system. It could be something like a relay. Quote
FarmerFixEmUp Posted September 22, 2025 Posted September 22, 2025 2 hours ago, acem said: You need to diagnose the system. It could be something like a relay. Or the clutch pedal switch. Sometimes on my 5288 when first starting I have to reset it 2 or 3 times then works fine. Has the Sentry box. 1 Quote
HydroTek Posted September 22, 2025 Posted September 22, 2025 The light on the dash will tell a lot about the health of the system you can also shift the 2 speed sitting still and hear it work compare Lo to High sound and vice versa Common for the power wire on the LH battery to corrode I usually cut that wire up by the fuse box and run power from the cab solenoid The 2 pressure switches are a common failure look for oil where the wires exit the switch and in the connector I have had oil leak out of the instrument panel , from oil pushing up the wire insulation from one of those pressure switches Clutch pedal switch is also a trouble area standard old '86 series pedal switch -- with a couple of added wires and a resistor they put gob of glue on the back so you cant see what is in there Purpose of the Sentry is two fold one is to keep both clutches from being engaged at the same time The other is "quality of shift" -- the sentry controls the clutch engagement based on the pressure switch on the opposite clutch pack The tractor can shift just fine without the sentry just will jerk more between shifts You would wire directly to the solenoid via relay That is how one of the eliminator box works way over priced for some relays and a couple of diodes Quote
tommyw-5088 Posted September 22, 2025 Author Posted September 22, 2025 where could i get a manual ? Quote
FarmerFixEmUp Posted September 22, 2025 Posted September 22, 2025 https://peacefulcreek.com/product/international-chassis-service-manual-for-5088-5288-5488-tractor-repair-shop-ih/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22404025836&gbraid=0AAAAADppvN3FslPGtSN3DO-Bw6bzjatli&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4pTWwpDtjwMVIVJ_AB3aMAY_EAQYBCABEgLfM_D_BwE This and a multimeter should be a big help. 1 Quote
midnightman Posted September 23, 2025 Posted September 23, 2025 On 9/21/2025 at 9:55 PM, FarmerFixEmUp said: Or the clutch pedal switch. Sometimes on my 5288 when first starting I have to reset it 2 or 3 times then works fine. Has the Sentry box. My 5088 does the same thing. After the first initial start, I can use it all day on loader duty, constantly shifting and never have an issue Quote
acem Posted September 24, 2025 Posted September 24, 2025 10 hours ago, midnightman said: My 5088 does the same thing. After the first initial start, I can use it all day on loader duty, constantly shifting and never have an issue So what causes this? Quote
2+2love Posted September 24, 2025 Posted September 24, 2025 Mike's sentry will tell you problems and comes with a book explaining everything. If a problem with the sentry does happen you just count the blinky lights and then read the book. It has detected 3 issues so far for me. Money well spent. And time saved. 4 Quote
tommyw-5088 Posted September 24, 2025 Author Posted September 24, 2025 On 9/22/2025 at 2:51 PM, FarmerFixEmUp said: https://peacefulcreek.com/product/international-chassis-service-manual-for-5088-5288-5488-tractor-repair-shop-ih/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22404025836&gbraid=0AAAAADppvN3FslPGtSN3DO-Bw6bzjatli&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4pTWwpDtjwMVIVJ_AB3aMAY_EAQYBCABEgLfM_D_BwE This and a multimeter should be a big help. Thank you Quote
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