1967806

That age thing has made a difference for me. Just told someone the other day I dont work as fast as I used to. I find myself so many times getting to my toolbox and trying to remember what I was going to get.

You had stuff working out good then. 3 hours on that job was before some hood bolts got cross threaded by some other jack#ss before it came in to my shop and I had to take a grinder to cut the heads off to get the hood off. And they were regular 5/16 bolts out of a bolt bin. Then you get on the bolts to take the cover off the top of the hood over the spot in front of the radiator to unhook the wires going to the headlights and a couple of them twist off........... Then you are a half day in. Or more.

What do you use to clean the grooves? I was never to satisfied with the way a wire brush on a die grinder left things. But I never knew what else to use. Pretty sure that left some pitting in the bottom of that groove.

I still think if the grooves in the liners were rounded the o rings would seal better in the block. At least one side of them would not get flat.

Got one of them that haunted me for a few months untill it finally sealed up.

One I tore in to was one of my own. 466 in my 5288. Overhauled it in frame 4 years ago. Number 3 o ring counterbore had an issue but we cobbled it to get it back together becasue it was april and we needed it in the field. Last fall it started that famous blowby steam. Before I tore it down I pulled the pan and could see water was coming from number 2. Number 3 was fine. Number 1 and 2 liners came out of the block by had. The other 4 wasnt very hard out either. All 3 or rings on all 6 liners were so brittle and hard they broke when I tried to get them off with a pick. Number 2 hole in the block looked fine.

Yep, I've seen that and had to have blocks repaired. But been seeing it on prefectly fine blocks too.

Glad to hear that. All kits Ive had last many years have all had black o rings. All aftermarket kits. Thinking we might be on to a junk parts rant here.

Been seeing a fair share of failing o rings lately on several engines with recent overhauls. Low hours and take the sleeves out and o rings are already brittle and flat. Been wondering if the o ring grooves in the liners ever used to be radiused and not cut square like they are today? Also makes me wonder if materials are lacking something now days in the rubber in the o rings. My last overhaul I got some o rings from cat to try. According to parts chart they were supposed to be oil and glycol resistant. Didn't get much trial out of that one though as a valve spring broke and swallowed valves after about 25 hours.

Same here, thats why I mentioned it. Deluxe cab tractor have to have the LH battery out to adjust it if I remember right to get wrenches in that window.

Thats what we did last fall on the plow, cheap black paint.

Might also want to make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. Seen them adjusted improperly so the free pedal is correct but the link between the booster and the clutch fork arm are tight and holding perssure against the release bearing.

If you are going to use in in the pulls put 15 series springs in the MCV if you go through it. Hy capacity or AgParts has the spring kits. If you do the TA a TA gasket kit should have all the orings in it for the MCV too. You will need copper washers for the 4 pump mounting bolts and the orings for the oil cooler lines from Case IH. I've never seen a kit yet that has those in it.

That fluid film or woolwax good enough to use on a moldboard that sets outside in the weather for a year? And yes, parts man told me last fall till coat has been discontinued.

Seen some beans last fall go from 12-13% to 8-9% in two days. Even had some dew in the mornings a couple of times but beans didnt absorb it. Just make a guy wish we would have had our A game plan the first day. Never happens here the first day. I always say day one of harvest or plant makes one feel like a rookie that day.

That makes sense now about that MFD bracket. I suspect the dowel hole could have just been a locating point for machining fixtures. I sure would like to have been able to stand there and watch all the machining process happen on the TA housing and rear end housings when they were being built. On the Deere side, my son in laws grandfather retired from deere in waterloo several years ago. He was a production machinist. I had a pretty good talk with him about that stuff one day. He told me one of the stations he worked at was machining the lifter bores in the 5020 engines. Another one of the places he worked in was where they machined the transfer case/housing/whatever you want to call it on the 7520 articulated 4WD's. He said it was about an 8 hour process to get one all machined properly back in the day. Just thinking just for the housing, then all the hours to cast/forge/cut/machine all the internal parts. Tons of hours in that stuff.

Speaking of cork plugs, pretty much every IH 06-86 I ever worked on has a machined off place under the clutch housing with a dowel hole and 4 plugged holes with corks in them. Never ever seen anything mounted to them threaded holes or in the dowels. Any ideas what they are for?

I dont know for sure what engine it is. There no AMBAC or bosch pump on LH side like a tractor or early truck engine has and the engine is not black. I wish I'd have taken a picture of it. You guys could probably tell what it is by looking.

I'll be glad to tell you I havent worked on many trucks, let alone electronic diesels. Had a guy stop by and ask me to look at his dump truck today. He started it up and it had a huge miss, was blowing white smoke that reeked of unburnt fuel like they do in the winter when you try to start one in the cold and the miss never went away as the engine coasted to a stop when he shut it off. Reminded me exactly like all the 3406 Cats I've heard with a broken raocker arm. Anyone have any ideas?

Seen a few of those with that style fan like the 12SI has. They were off newer GM vehicles like mid 80's stuff.

Them plugs will will melt out when you get the rosebud out to heat them up to get them freed up so they will turn. Also a good idea to do it before you paint the tractor. 😀

I was always afraid the 370 or whatever the 15 series springs make it have might blow out seals in the TA or something else.

What's a 12 SI lok like?

Last time I needed matched belts the parts guy at the automotive store told me they manufacture them with such high degree of accuracy they dont need matched. I thought yea right! The water pump pulley with just the single groove was NLA from IH last time I checked. I had to go with the double groove and route my A/C belt different than it was previously with the aftermarket system. I keep thinking someday I will put the two belts and one A/C belt on like they were factory. Got all the stuff to do it. Just havent made the time to do it.

Probably came out of the factory without A/C and someone added it on like mine. Factory 66's with A/C had two fan belts and another belt driven from the pulley on the water pump to the A/C compressor like an 86 series. Not sure they even have the single groove pully on the water pump availiable anymore. Also need a double groove pully on the alternator to make it right.