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Everything posted by brahamfireman

  1. Did you plastiguage the rods? If not your just guessing and realy have no clue what's getting tight. Odds are if it got tight and stalled, it's probably already damaged the crank. Might as well tear it apart and check rod bearing clearance and if it damaged the crank.
  2. I hate the look of the square replacement arms, much prefer the older rounded arms. So I'll gladly weld on wore out originals before I put the ugly square ones on. Besides, with all new parts, I highly doubt the front end will ever wear out again before these tractors become obsolete.
  3. Finally after 2 months, I pulled the 1256 off the trailer and shoved it into shop. Needs to have the cab steps pulled off, the starter looked at, new battery cables, and new 3ET batteries installed. Then we can flog it in the field to see what else breaks.
  4. Everything quit because after sucking air too long your mcv pump must have died, or the key sheared. Putting off major repairs, usually leads to more major repairs. Pull the mcv pump off and look. It's a 30 minute job.
  5. Cast by IH. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/ih-stamp-on-318-block.448306/
  6. I believe the book shows how to bypass sensors that are not working. I'd think you could put it on 4 row setting and just bypass the unused rows.
  7. Only thing they're good for is mounting on hood for tractor shows, I've got 2 I put on a couple tractors just for looks. I found 1 on book face for $25 awhile back, should have bought it to throw on something.
  8. Replace all on those. You might be able to straighten enough to get it to hold bearing on. Outer bearing surface looks straight still.
  9. Our 5088 dropped the water in the oil December of 2022 with 9000 hours on original everything. We never even questioned what to do, dad and I did an In-frame and kept right on going. At least you know what you got. You could buy another tractor and it'll drop the oil on the first round.....
  10. Swap in two 12 Volt ET batteries so it looks good and has plenty of starting power. No need to butcher up battery box mounts then.
  11. My thought is at least parts stores are open Monday if you breakdown Sunday. If you run Saturday and break down, your generaly out of luck till Monday cuz everything's closed by noon Saturday.
  12. It's stores just fine for years in the jugs from the factory, it'll store just fine over winter.
  13. Large square cover right by step is where the fwa or 2+2 transfer case bolts too. The smaller square cover behind and lower with the odd hump in it is your main pump.
  14. I know for a fact a 1206 will go in a container, need to slide wheels all the way in and torch axles. The cab is going to be your main problem, too tall.
  15. If your just running the tractor at idle to plant, then just get a 1000 to 540 adapter and run the pto on the 1000 shaft...... you'll get some fan speed and not risk breaking something. Even thought it just falls to the ground, fan inertia will keep it spinning, possibly bending the shaft or a pulley.
  16. My thoughts exactly, push the PTO lock in, slide the coupler on more, and then secure it.
  17. Took the 856 out to put tile risers back in after I planted. Storms popped up just to the east of us, could hear the thunder but very little rain here.
  18. Typically the inside of the fenders bolt to the rops, and the fender is now, no longer bolted to the axle.
  19. These starters use the spinning starter to push the bendix gear out onto the ring gear, There's no mechanical finger like on tractors. If it's spinning, all the above mentioned electrical stuff is irrelevant. The only reason the gear won't spin out is your ring gear is chewed up causing the gears not to mesh, your starter is dirty enough that the gears sticking inside, or the nose cone is screwed up. I'd bet a box of donuts that you can chase electrical problems all week and not fix it, because new starters are junk!!! I've had 3 powerstrokes over 22 years now and let me tell you, when junk off shore starters get in the parts stream it sucks. I've been riding on high dollar, 12 year old Napa starter, and I'm not looking forward to the day it dies.
  20. Side note.... did the truck motors ever recommend multigrade or were they straight 30 weight right up till the end of the 466?
  21. Wheatland fenders, front axle and lights.
  22. To start, I'm Running a 5088 and 900 cyclo planter with an Ag Leader Integra controlling a hydraulic drive. 3 days into 2024 planting and I'm noticing the hydraulic drive loosing speed, then speeding way up, before settling back in to normal. I'm starting to think there's something binding, nope all turns really easy. 1 more round same thing, now I'm starting to think it's tractor related but how can everything else be working great, I was 1 round away from swapping the drive to a different remote, but. It's warm, no AC so fans on high. While watching the drive RPM on the screen I happened to hear the cab fan slow down, while also seeing drive RPM drop, fan speeds back up, drive WAY over compensates. Bingo, light bulb went off. The Alternator was pushing 15 volts, and when it drops suddenly to 13.5V the PWM valve on drive goes haywire. Fan on low, the voltage was all over, so poor man's solution was fan on purge, lights on in the day to hold voltage steady. Looks like tomorrow's project is a new used 3 wire 10SI I've got laying around and ditch the factory single wire. I will say though, 9000+ hours on what appears to be the original alternator. I'll possibly look into rebuilding it.
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