brahamfireman

That is an internally regulated alternator. Can't say I've seen many with the R and F markings, most are 1 and 2. Are you still using the external regulator in the column between the pedals? Also you said new voltmeter, the 826 never had a voltmeter so is it an aftermarket one that you added?

I'm not a hydro expert but all gear drive 56 series used 3 lights. Oil, lube, amp.

If it's charging the rear bearing cover will be magnetic, check it with a screw driver. If it's not charging and light is on need to start checking voltage at wires. Also depends on if it's still got the regulator in pedestal between your feet or internally regulated alternator.

No. 826 they're split. engine oil on left and amp on right side of fuel gauge. Lube light is lower on pedestal.

And I thank you for donating to my land improvement. Also, have you heard of the federal income tax??? It's not new.....

Yep, one of my 83 year old landlords is on there for the berm we did on his 8 acre field......he lived in the suburbs till he was 75 then moved out here.

You'd be surprised the number of big businesses that get income tax breaks to build in a city. That business draws people, without people the local places dry up. So not a direct handout but it juices the local economy. I will say I was solidly in the "no subsidies" camp, and I'm still probably there, but I pay lots of income taxes and asking the government for money is just my way of getting my money back. I think last year we were in the 20% bracket here in MN, if i don't get my money back, it'll get wasted on fraud on the twin cities.

That EWG site is a partial scam. It lists me as getting over 50K in subsidies, yet I've never carried crop insurance, never been paid for a crop. The money came in the form of erosion management berms and terraces that NRCS paid for. I've done 8 now with another planed for this fall. I get paid from NRCS for the project, but 100% of the money went right back out to the contractor who built it. Yet it shows I got a bunch of "free money".

Having a hard time understanding..... In your first sentence You say no brake pedal, like it goes to the floor, or it won't move?

Not enough air pressure

I haven't read entire thread but if you're not using heat you're just wasting time....... Stuck 3 point arms never come loose without heat.

Still not the $125 a barrel it was 5 years ago and diesel was this high.

How long have those things been offline?

And oil is only $83 a barrel. Something is a miss.....

Your right, I wasn't arguing that. I was pointing out how dumb the old "speed burns the soil" myth is.

Ahh the old speed burns the soil..... No it doesn't. Turning dirt releases CO2. Organic matter is just a measure of CO2 in the soil. You can see how plowing " removes" organic matter on a scientific level, but i can tell you as soon as the moldboard left and we started chiseling at 5 mph, organic matter increased.

No way you'll cover the tracks with duals. A 5 shank Glencoe is only 75 inches wide. 20.8's set at 30" means your outer tread is 80" at max width. You've got more than enough weight to pull that with singles.

And if the tractor spends any time at an angle, the standard fill mark will starve axle bearings. If it's low, they starve real fast. 5 gallons over full is just a good practice.

If this tractor doesn't have a cab it's way easier to take the small square cover off behind seat by 3 point control, put a big funnel in there and dump in oil. 3 point top link cover works too but need a tube. Factory fill hole in platform SUCKS!!!!

Wasn't exactly how you worded it... I test every tractor. Clean pans and dump the oil right in back in.

Heat, heat, heat. Then vice grip the sheet out of the bolts. New bolts after that.

If there's no fill plugs on axle housing then it shouldn't have the caps over the inner bearing, it will then fill through the inner bearing. Just for peace of mind I leave the axle drain plugs out and fill rear with oil, once I see oil coming out drains I know it's filling the axle housing. I also suggest initially over filling by a few gallons and rechecking a day later. It fills those axle housings pretty slow and the last thing you want to do it starve the axle for oil. Doing this is how I discovered dad's 806 has had the housing drilled on 1 side only.

Every one I've seen pump was between gear train and distributor. Are the pump gears keyed or pressed onto shaft?

Couple years ago I filled the combine from the service tank in back of my pickup and as I squeezed the handle I watched dead Japanese beetles shoot into the fuel tank!!!!! I made it 30 acres before the combine died. I changed filters and went 5 more acres...... i eventually figured out if you idle down and shake the wheel left/ right it would get the slug of bugs off the intake hole in the tank. 70 acres and 15 miles later i was home. You haven't had fun till you try to flush bugs out of a 1688 fuel tank!!!!

Yes, you most likely sheared the key. If it's still running you obviously didn't wreck any timing gears.