brahamfireman

If it was hot your injection pump's probably shot. Pour cold water on pump or wait for it to cool.

Last time I did bushings in the neighbors 1640 I just pressed them in with lots of WD40 and a sleeve was close to right size.

Why? Supply and demand is working. If anything you should be mad at California for closing 3 refineries in the last few years. Severe lack of refining capacity is driving diesel prices.

Old Corn ground gets chisel plowed in fall with a Glencoe 13 shank, then I use 45 vibra-shank cultivator with 6" V sweeps in the spring. bean ground get a 2" straight shank using a 45 vibra-shank on 10" spacing in the fall and the same 45 with 6" sweeps in the spring. Combine uses 1.2 gallons an acre. beans use more, too small of a head and the air bar sucks power. Corn is pretty much spot on 1 gallon an acre with the 8 row head. Planting is about .6 per acre. Spraying is .5 an acre. I used the 856 to spread spring fertilizer and i think it was under .2 gallons an acre.

Seed is $120/A, fertilizer is over $150/A. Rent..... can swing $50 a year. Fuel is literally the cheapest input. Heck guys spend more an acre on fungicide and seed treatments. If $10 an acre breaks a farm, it was already in trouble.

Truth is on a non irrigated row crop farm, fuel is barely a spec on the budget. I use roughly 5 gallons of diesel per acre, start to finish with a crop. If diesel is $3, my cost is $15 per acre. If diesel is $5 my cost is $25 per acre. That's a $10 per acre difference, less than 1 bushel of beans or just over 2 bushels of corn will cover the cost. my time's better spent marketing grain than watching fuel prices.

Guessing they left the driveshaft hooked up and output shaft locked up from lack of lube.

The bulb won't matter on these, I know for a fact. All my tractors have a 257 blinking LED bulb in the oil and amp telelights. My 856 has the 10DN alternator with external regulator and it works fine. My 806 gas has generator with same external regulator. My 706 has been converted to a 10SI.

If we could post pictures, I inherited a 5 gallon pail of anti seize when I bought the farm. Metal pail , still half full.

We were discussing at work today how crazy it was to see 5.99 for diesel, so we found an inflation calculator online and punched in $4.00 in 2008 equals what today...... $6.20, so here diesel is still below the 08 prices, but just barely. And people are still lined up getting coffee and fast food.

Well I'm 10 years into it the fix so.....if it can't hold a prime for a month you screwed something up. It can get fixed right for 6 years or you can push 8 different switches in a specific order, and guarantee no one else can drive it forever. I'll take the fixed right and can be driven by anyone option.

You're going to run an electric and a mechanical pump in parallel? Your mechanical pump will not suck through an electric pump. Personally I'd just fix the return lines. Dad's turbo 93 will start hard after sitting 3 months but if we use it once a month it's fine. Prior to me fixing the return lines it would leak back after a week and start hard.

Ran the turbo 806 on the prony about 6 pm. Made 113HP, super happy with that!!! We did the turbo 856 yesterday and got 127!

Over 20 years on the 5088......

Technically mines tomorrow, and I'll be spending it at the Western MN steam threshers reunion. Thanks!

I'm pretty sure the light is controlled by a contact in the voltage regulator, try unplugging the voltage regulator and see if the light goes out. If it's magnetic on the back bearing then yes it's charging, but it might just be charging from residual magnetism and not regulating. Check output voltage with a multimeter.

Knight tractor is Ellsworth WI currently has a 2nd remote for a 66 series listed for $550. There's a guy in IA listing a filthy valve with levers for $400.

Numerous guys on FB selling the complete 2nd valve assembly, valve, lever, hoses, etc. For $600ish? Super easy job.

I'm guessing the lights all flash in turn signal mode because one side is supposed to be on steady when turn signal is activated. Pull that flasher thing out and I bet the turn signals work correctly.

Does this tractor have the huge box thing on the back of the turn signal switch with 6 or so wires going to it? If so that's the flasher module, easiest thing to do is find wiring diagram and start sending 12V through each wire to verify all wiring to flashers is good. If wiring checks out good you're back to a bad flasher box. Also I'd get rid of those resistors, just more load in the circuit when the goal of LED lights is less load.

Rereading other post, I misinterpreted and it sounds like the old 10DN alternator is being used. Your voltage regulator is probably bad, but we still need to figure out how this voltmeter is wired in.

It's Not possible to use the external regulator and have an internal regulated alternator work correctly.

Where is the guage located? Only factory guages in the dash are big round tach on the left and the big combo fuel/temp guage on the right. For the 3rd time now......is the factory regulator still installed in the pedestal between the pedals?????

IH made pull types combines up to the merger and CaseIH made them till 1991. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/110468-ih-pull-type-combines/

That's a completely different issue. My method will tell you every time if your alternator is good regardless of what a voltmeter says. Part of diagnosing a no charge issue is determining if the alternator is good.