dirtyoily

I inadvertently shifted my 1466 to high range 4 while at low rpm’s. The tractor immediately died when I released the clutch. The tractor will turn over but won’t start. What could possibly be the problem? I’m absolutely stumped! thanks for your suggestions!!!!

I have no rowcrops, only hilly pastures. Wouldn’t an 856 with the eliminator be safer to use on hills for emergency stopping, especially if the tractor were to die while driving down a steep hill?

I read that I must purchase a replacement main shaft if the original does NOT have a hole running entirely through it. Could I use a Machinest to bore this needed hole if original does not have one? If so, what size hole should be bored?

How can I test the relief valve on a 1066 without removing from the remote?

I have access to a very good machinist. I wish to add power beyond onto my 1066 to operate my front end loader without tying up the use of my remotes for haying equipment. I’ve examined closely the middle remote and the outer and believe my machinist can carefully convert the outer remote to be open on both sides thus suitable for attaching the power beyond block. I’ve heard of this being done before. What are the drawbacks and challenges of properly machining the outer remote for this purpose? Thanks for your thoughts!

Thanks. What is the purpose of the plugged pipe port below the seat on the right side in front of the black cover? Picture sent as attachment.

I thought I would give you an Update. I have an Upcoming need to use this tractor so have not aggressively torn into disassembling the remotes or examining the relief valves yet. I did put a gauge on each remote outlet and was able to obtain about 2500 psi at each port. When I released the control back to neutral most of the ports quickly fell back to about 250 psi. 1 dropped down to 150 psi. I decided to power wash the rear and under the seat to make sure I don’t have any external leaks. Months ago I purchased the necessary items for power beyond in order to operate a loader valve without using the rear remotes. I have not yet found the time to install however. If I am reaching 2500 psi while engaging the remotes will power beyond more or less bypass my troubles within the remotes? Wwhatever the case, now that I have cleaned the remotes I will unscrew the rears and examine for excess play at the detentes. When I pull the relief valves what should I be looking for to determine if faulty? Is there a way I can test them after removal? I do have a 1066 if trading them is a means of testing. thanks again for your coaching and advice.

Lever closest to seat is bucket. Boom slowly lowers while tractor is in operation. I’m curious why yet glad to hear you don’t suspect the valve operating the boom?.? I look forward to reading your answer. I can’t thank you enough for all of your interest and dialogue with me. You are helping me immensely narrow down what and how to look for the problem.

Levers aren’t sticking. I have tried moving both levers at the same time and bucket action is not what it should be. let me add another kink to this problem. The boom is often (90 % of the time)stopped abruptly from raising less than 1/4 of its travel up from the ground. When It does so It is always at the same hight and a sudden stop.

Thanks for this help. I have no external leakage anywhere.

Thanks so much for your quick reply!!! If I have play in neutral should I carefully tighten the internal assembly of the valve from the rear of the tractor? I’m curious. Do the valve bodies have internal o-rings that ever go bad, causing fluid bypass around the pistons?

I run my front end loader on my 1466 running the boom and bucket independently using the two remotes. I believe I put too much of a strain on my loader recently. My boom remote now bleeds over into the bucket remote and tilts the bucket inconsistently when operating the boom. The boom also slowly bleeds down. My hydraulic lines are plumbed correctly to the bucket and boom. I suspect the problem is in the valve(s). What should I examine first to fix? Would a stuck bypass valve on a remote be a possibility? Are they remotes repairable with new seals and o-rings? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.