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    Northwest Ohio
  • Interests
    4x4s, old trucks, farming and tractors.

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  1. Forgot to post a followup. Tractor is up and running. Very disappointed with Complete Diesel in Findlay, Ohio. Don't recommend them. What they said would be a five day turnaround, fixing only what needed to be fixed, turned into a three week ordeal that was very expensive. They said they never actually tore my pump down I guess they just "decided" what was wrong (what they stated was wrong doesn't line up with the symptoms) and wanted to replace it with a reman. I f I'd wanted to go that direction, I could have bought that reman from the same place they got it. The price of the pump (though more than I wanted to pay) was about the same but I saved the cost of shipping buying it from Complete. The woman who answered inquiries had a different story every time I called and my BS detector started going off big time. I finally needed the tractor enough to accept the hose job, so they won the battle. They will never get another dime of mine, however.
  2. Thanks! I had a smaller flange puller that did the job nicely. Just a minor pop when it let loose. FYI for the group, after a good night's sleep, I easily found the timing mark in the pump. One of those, "If it was a rattlesnake..." moments. Pump is now at the injection shop and I dread the upcoming hit to my wallet. Took it to Complete Diesel in Findlay, Ohio. Was impressed that they did a pretty good job of asking relevant questions on symptoms, etc. Thanks to all that answered.
  3. Yeah, it's 14 or 16 off the top of my head (manual is out in the shop) but mostly I think I should have just stopped earlier, gotten a good night's sleep and attacked it again rather than hop online in a tizzy. The marks are there. I'll find them. Ditto for getting the pump loose from the gear.. but if there is a good trick ???? I may have a tool that can be adapted. I saw a guy on YouTube with a D310 hitting it with a hammer ( : < ( .
  4. Yep, turned it another revolution after not seeing it.
  5. Nearly ready to pull the injection pump on my D358 and I have run into a hitch. Have two questions. 1- The hitch. Of course you set the engine up on the timing marks to pull the pump. Easy enough to find the "T" mark on the flywheel and the corresponding scale and TDC on the crankshaft pulley. What I can't see is the alleged mark through the window in the side on the injection pump that should line up. Spun the engine to either side of actual TDC and I don't see any marks? Been burning the candle at both ends, so maybe I'm whipped enough to be missing something? 2- I have not yet taken the pump out of the timing gear. The manual shows a special tool to push the pump shaft out of the gear. Is it really needed or are thee some tricks? Many thanks.
  6. jimb2- That second list was handy. Thanks for finding and posting it.
  7. Go back and read the Spicer test. The 2-stroke out outperformed some of the dedicated additives... including Stanadyne Lubricity formula. Would be fun if someone redid that test with today's products and see what changes have occurred. Spicer had it done by SWRI, so it wasn't a fly by night test. For me, the 2-stroke is as much insurance as I think I need. Your comment about water is intriguing. How do any of the diesel additives deal with water? I didn't think that was possible with diesel fuel. With gassers, of course, you use alcohol/ethanol, but those are the kiss of death for a diesel. I used Stanadyne for about 20 years ('87-07-ish) and it didn't stop the fuel tank in my Ford diesel truck from rusting from the inside out. Maybe there are new formulas that deal with water. I'll have to look into it because I had to replace the other tank in my truck a couple years back for the same reason. Little bit of water collects in that sump below the fuel inlet sock (should be a drain there) and in some number of years, it creates pinholes.
  8. The problem is solved now but it's good to know the VE kit is the way to go if I need a pump. I had heard negative comments on the DB Stanadyne kit but don't remember much. A quick search didn't show any available. Injection shops are fewer and farther between and some tend to be "independent" knowing they gotya by the short and curlies. No rust in my system. Shone a light into my tank and all I could see was shiny metal, with just a few dark spots here and there. Banjo fittings were all bright inside. Tractor is old and tired but the D358 has never been apart. 8700 hours and counting! I've used Stanadyne but no longer do. I use 2-stroke oil. Put enough in my farm tank just before I have it filled. Lots cheaper than Stanadyne and as effective for lubricity. Doesn't have the cetane booster but I don't need it. You might remember the Spicer lubricity study of the early 2000s https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/lubricity-additive-study-results.177728/ and based on that, I have been using it ever since. Not sure it's needed any more with quality fuel (if properly addivized, you never needed it but some blenders were neglecting to do it). Have an old school diesel pickup ('86 Ford w/IH 6.9L) that I bought almost new in '87. Used to use Performance Formula in it to eke out the last pony (installed a Banks Gen 1 turbo kit in '87 and it's still there) but now it's just a farm truck. Still has some suds, though. In light of the modern trucks, though, you just don't brag about having 200 hp at the rear wheels any more. There was a day, however!
  9. I have a TA but don't count it as a "gear." Adding the TA gives me more speed ranges than I have fingers and toes, so I can't count it. 😉 Don't really know what is customary nomenclature. I don't need my TA often but it was sure handy for keeping the revs up while I was having my problem.
  10. What do you call it? Second High? So much easier to say "6th" ... 😁 and everyone knows what you mean.
  11. Sounds like good advice and I thank you for it. Once things quiet down, I may run the fuel low, remove and inspect that check valve to see what's what. How high do you recommend the standpipe come if I were to install one? Or could a fella just install a shut off valve for when working on the tractor?
  12. Well, I spent the morning going thru everything. Looked inside the tank- very clean. Checked fuel flow to the pump (thru the filters)- it could fill a pint cup in a couple of seconds with about half a tank of fuel. Blew out the lines, check valves and banjos back to the tank- nothing noted. Seems to be running fine now. Too wet to get back on the field but the problem was so noticeable that it could hardly move in anything but a very low gear or revved to the moon. Now it's like normal and can pull away nicely in sixth and grunts a little to pull away in 7th. I'm happy on one hand that it seems to be fixed but after many years of wrenching for a living, I know that the jagged cleaver of fate is hanging over you when you don't find a clear-cut answer to a problem. Thanks everyone for the advice. Hopefully I won't have to come back sobbing uncontrollably. ( : < )
  13. It's got a cable. I just went out to move it from where I got rained out. It wouldn't start until I pulled the cable partway up into the start position (I think it's called the "excess fuel position" in the manual). Normally it's not needed except on cold days. It started. Interestingly, with the throttle lever in the idle position, after a little warming up, it would not idle or barely idle (300rpm or so). Pull the cable, it revs to 1000 rpm. I run the engine up to 1500 rpm to move it and when I pull the cable out for excess fuel, it revs to 2000 rpm. I note that the throttle lever has to be way farther over than before to get rpms. The tag says its a BR pump EP/VA6/100H 1200 BR21 0460 306 110 R I'll run through the cable adjustment again per the manual (I think it's right but it never hurts to double check) I'll check the fuel flow to the pump from the filters. And the return.
  14. So with a fuel restriction, the engine will rev to 24-2600 with a full load (pulling a drill) but it won't idle or lug at lower rpm? It's almost normal above 1500 rpm but it can barely move under 1000 rpm. In my experience, low fuel flow has the exact opposite effect. If I am incorrect, please take some time to explain. I did replace the fuel filters.
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