IH 2 point sickle mower prep/parts diagrams

[wilmes2504]

Hello all, needing a little help on a mower i just bought that was my grandpas originally.

 

1. what model is this mower for certain? from the research that I've done, it appears to be either a 21 or 28.

 

2. I've tried search both a c21 and c28 on the case ih website for parts diagrams, but neither model comes up. is there a place to find diagrams/part numbers for these mowers?

 

3. judging by the pictures, is this unit missing any parts? I'm guessing there is supposed to be a rod for a visual on the end of the bar? does anyone have one they want to sell if so?

 

4. where should I purchase the rivets, knives, rock guards, and bolts from? i'd like to just replace them all so they are all new.

 

5. the square PTO shaft is extremely worn out, should a guy just replace the entire thing, or put it in a lathe and weld new square stock to it?

 

[naedlaen]

It appears that all of the necessary parts are there.  The photos do not show the ball clamp to couple the pitman stick to the sickle.  The only thing that I can positively say is not there is the swath board/rod.

Shoup would have all of the sections and guards.

Only drawback would be that it is a pitman mower and not a balanced head.  Depends on how you want to use it, and how much you will use it.  Since it was your grandfathers, keep it and use it

Neal

[wilmes2504]

i plan on using it to cut about 10 acres of hay here in east central missouri on my farmall 200.

[Dirt_Floor_Poor]

Those guards and sections will fit a lot of models. If you have them in your hands any dealer should be able to identify those cutterbar parts. Tractor Supply would also likely have them. Those old style guards were a source of major frustration for me the last time I played with my dad’s IH mower. I was going to convert it to non clog style guards, but never did. I haven’t had the balanced head mower on in a few years. 

[ny bill o]

My "Fast Hitch Implements for the Super C" catalog shows a picture of a C-21-P mower and also mentions a C-24-P mower but no picture. No idea of the difference(s). (200 and Super C are basically the same tractor setup.) The C-21 pic shows a bracket that hooks to the RH tractor axle. I don't see a bracket in your picture.

The Paper Farmer in Wisconsin might be a source of a manual.

If your hay is coarse (without a lot of fine grass in the bottom), the mower should work decently. If lots of fines, good luck.

Edited March 7 by ny bill o

[mmi]

Hello;

That is used with Sc-2xx and locked out FH

Search for both ORIGINAL manuals ( c-21/3 ish) +- $18 ea, proper set up/use

You can use it slow and not too heavy grass hay

Will have +- $500, + time into it as the issues arise.

swath board $80

not if- when NLA pitman breaks + related parts damaged $ $120-300

rivet setter/ breaker $80

 knives ledgers guards etc as needed (shoup/hershel bolt on kit) $50-400

Std u joints $8 ......NLA?

Replace sq shafts ( exact length ) from 4' stock you have shipped $100-125....unless old dealer (NLA) lets you root drops pile.

Once all worked out should run clean and slow (1-2mph /vs 8 + x 12') for many years.

 

[Matt Kirsch]

Check your PTO shaft. It is likely not "square" but rather, rectangular. This is to prevent the shaft from being put together out of phase.

Webb Cutting Components would have any part you could hope to need for that mower. Most of the consumable parts for all IH pitman mowers are the same.

[Rainman]

Mike B ....715.726.1942. Paper Farmer.

C21-P has one Lifting Spring

 

[TN Hillbilly]

I had the same mower, except mine clamped to the axle instead of mounted on the 2 point.

I agree that it is probably a C21.

They are okay mowers. Replacing all the guards and sickle sections will make it cut as well as it can. 

I agree with others, get a manual reprint and follow the setup instructions. The far end of the cutter bar needs a little "lead" over the near end, as heavy hay will pull the bar backwards as you drive forward. The goal is to set the lead forward so that when in thick hay, the bar is straight, not trailing behind.

Good luck. They're okay. I mowed 10-20 acres of grass hay twice a year for 2 or 3 years when I first got it. Once I bought a balanced head mower, though, I sold the C21... if that tells you anything. 

[Lazy WP]

I don’t know for sure what model you have, but it looks like what I always knew was a 24. If you can’t get the pitman stick parts locally, I am certain you can at either of the implement dealers in Valentine Nebraska. Personally, I would throw those guards in the scrap pile and get a set of “double swather” guards. They will cut so much better. I am a firm believer in smooth guards and under serrated sickle sections. I’m in the minority but I still use my sickle bar to mow all of my hay, so I feel like I have a good idea of what I’m doing. 

[MT Matt]

I have a few of those style of mowers. Had a hand lifting version on my A which I converted to my Super A. I found the right Super A mower with the correct lift rod later. I tore down a fast hitch C-28 for parts and still have another sitting at the farm. They were all basically the same until the balanced head got rid of the pitman. 

From what I know, you have a C-21. There is only one lifting spring as you see in the second to last picture. A C-24 had two lift springs. The 21 and 24 both had the gear boxes inline vertically and the upper box was higher to line up with the C or Super C pto shaft. The C-28 was made for the Utility tractors and the upper box was lower and to the side.

Ive cut a lot of hay with my mower. I have multiple sickles so when one gets dull, just swap it out and keep going. Or if you knock out a section. You’ll need the V shaped grinding stone to sharpen the sickle sections.

If I was going to totally rebuild it, go to the double guards like what’s found on haybines and top serrated section that are bolted on. Then you don’t have to pull the sickle to replace nor do you sharpen the sickle. New Holland guards and sections fit the same as IH. JD and Ford do not as I understand it. Sickle mowers have a place. Can get under fences and reach out down a pond edge or whatever. I use mine for places I don’t want to take a haybine like a road ditch.

Yours is missing the batter board at the end and the rod. Typical, the board rots away. What it is for it to flip the end hay in so you leave a small clear spot for your inner shoe to run in on the next pass.  When Im home next week I can get you dimensions and pics if you need. 

[wilmes2504]

Matt could you elaborate a bit more on the upgraded guards/sections? I plan on rebuilding the mower so I’d like to do some upgrades if possible.

[MT Matt]

I’ll take some pictures tomorrow. 

[TN Hillbilly]

You want the New Holland double guards, like would go on a haybine. I think the number is BU218 or BU220, but can't remember which. Any decent implement dealer will have them. Just ask for a New Holland haybine guard.

[Lazy WP]

Here’s a couple pictures of the double guards.  #fq 218 hd

They are German double hard guards  

I get mine from Webs sickle service in Grand Island Nebraska. They aren’t cheap, but they will cut where other people will tell you that you can only use a disc mower  

 

[MT Matt]

Here is a comparison between a double and single guard.

About all of the single guards have a replaceable ledger plate that is serrated.

The doubles I use are smooth.

This is a top serrated sickle section that I use with the double guard.  It is a Hershel brand B+, which is for IH or New Holland.

This is a bottom serrated sickle that goes with the old style ledger plates.  These need to be sharpened, the top serrated sickles do not get sharpened.  They just go until worn out or broken.  This is also all riveted.  I have a few sickles so if I knock out a sickle, I pull the sickle and put in another.

This is a haybine cutter bar and all of the sickle sections are bolted on.  If you break one, you can just replace it in the field and keep going.  I don’t have to pull a sickle very often unless I intend to rebuild the entire sickle and/or replace all the guards.

The double guards with bolted sickle sections is preferred.  If you have any other questions, hit us up. 

[wilmes2504]

Thanks for the info, I see the FQ218HD on the CNH website, I’m assuming those would work?

 

I also see we have the 86615982 double guard in stock at my local cnh dealer, I wonder what the difference is between the two?