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Posted

New to us a 1026.  Seems like a solid tractor.  This forum has helped me with a few aspects that are new to me - never drove/had a hydro before.  I’m convinced with having just this one Hydro that Hydros are very handy.  My issue - it just seems as if the tractor is slow - and for no reason that I can determine.  PSIs on the unit are firmly in specs, linkages sure seem to be tight, no dragging brakes, 407 sure turns the augers easily.  As an example when driving (not pulling anything) on a level road in the high range it probably doesn’t get to 12 MPH.  I don’t intend to make this a racing machine but am using the road speed as an example.  Take it a step further & low range is almost too slow to rake or mow hay & high range isn’t meant to work hard (correct?).  Any ideas what to look for?

Posted

Motor servo is not tilting when the speed selector is moved to the upper part of the quadrant 

this can be from a plugged control orifice , or from a damaged servo cylinder 
... well low servo pressure would also be a problem

You are getting 6500 psi drive pressure easily ?
like at half throttle ?

 

Posted

Many times the motor servo orifice plate seal has blown because servo has moved away from s-r valve plate. After replacing seal. Shim thrust bearing on that plate to move it closer to servo.

  • Like 1
Posted

So 1500 - 1800 rpm in high range about 1 mph and ride the brakes until the tractor barely creeps , should build full drive pressure 

Drive pressure on a "tight" system will easily build at lower speeds
and is set at the foot-n-inch valve with shims 

Be sure the pedal can fully return and the valve linkage is free -- pedal should actually push on the valve just a little 

if the pressure is low , then remove the return line from the foot-n-inch valve (larger line) and see if oil comes out of the valve (oil should not) -- you will need to plug the line or make a mess

was thinking that on the 1026 it may have been 5800 psi -- I dont have the book in front of me
later was 6500 psi and will not hurt the 1026 

Posted
Just now, snoshoe said:

Many times the motor servo orifice plate seal has blown because servo has moved away from s-r valve plate. After replacing seal. Shim thrust bearing on that plate to move it closer to servo.

To add to @snoshoe comment
you should feel a definite speed increase when you get to the blue mark on the speed quadrant
that is when the motor servo tilts  

Posted

Motor servo orifice is number 4
spring washer #10 holds the anchor bolt #3 toward the plate - this can wear , but usually the seals #7 will blow
you can shim the plate #2 closer to the orifices with a washer next to the housing 
if the orifice seals are the problem 

Herr's Machine will repair these models 

 

image.png.7699038ea777628a82aaa044b777b63e.png

Posted

A hydro should have workable road speeds. I think my 1026 would do 18-20 unladen. Of course slower uphill, faster downhill. I think low range was 6-7 ish, about right for a bar rake. I wouldn’t be afraid to rake hay in high range, just don’t plow in it!

Posted

I have a 1026, I've talked with a good friend who also has one, and I've spoken to customers at work who also own a 1026.  All of us agree, they are slow on the road, compared to their gear drive counterparts.  I believe that's just the nature of the beast, a 1026 is not fast driving down the road in high range.  They're just naturally a little slower tractor.

Posted
4 hours ago, Nebraska1206 said:

I have a 1026, I've talked with a good friend who also has one, and I've spoken to customers at work who also own a 1026.  All of us agree, they are slow on the road, compared to their gear drive counterparts.  I believe that's just the nature of the beast, a 1026 is not fast driving down the road in high range.  They're just naturally a little slower tractor.

I know my 1026 is slower than my Hydro 70.I haven't had my Hydro 100 on the road yet to see how fast it goes.But 12mph seems slow to me for a 1026.

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