ComancheStarFarms

You are correct. Any idea why one casting threaded hole out of dozens on the tractor has a plug & none of the others have anything - - other than mud dabbers? Thanks for the help!

(618) 795-3950. Mike Links owner of Triple R Tractors. Sharp technician, helpful & if you need his work then fair priced.

I found a very reasonably priced cast right step for our Hydro 70. While attempting to mount it - - 2 heavy bolts - - I was successful in screwing in the forward bolt into the tranny or rear end housing however the aft bolt attaching hole has no threads. Instead of threads for screwing a bolt into the cast housing it appears that it’s home to a recessed plug. This should be similar to the 656, 666 & H86 and I’ve seen each with a right hand step. Any ideas what I might be up against?

My intent is not to highjack this thread however since we have a 966 & a 1066 I could use some clarification so that if/when I have this problem I’ll have a better idea on what to do. So, what was the problem that resulted in this posting? Where’s the check valve located & what dictates its removal & replacement? And the repair job requires a running engine? Finally, what leads to a runaway engine & catastrophe? Thanks in advance for any clarification/education?

Got it - thanks!

I’m having some difficulties with R2 of the pump & am looking for advice/suggestions. Here goes - Pump is probably ok - - just one of the gaskets leaking. Removed the pump and discovered the pulley is pressed on & requires pressing off to remove it. So decided to leave the pulley as is & just remove the steel plate that goes between the engine block & the pump. I’ve little idea as to the purpose of this plate but it has a gasket on both sides and to R2 the gaskets it has to be removed. Four small screws hold it to the pump & I’ve only had luck in removing one of the four. I’ve soaked the remaining three screws with Kroil for the past three days but still the screws won’t budge. I’ve stopped at this point because I’m getting close to rounding off the screw heads & thus increasing the chore of removal. Any suggestions with any of this would be greatly appreciated!

Jacobi’s was an IH dealership in Palmyra, IN that has morphed into about a half dozen stores handling a few brands located in southern IN & north central KY - still CaseIH centric (if Kubota hasn’t taken their lead).

I know Jacobi so it helps me as the OP.

2+2Love - you are a big help. Looks like a lot of great products & expertise. Not their first rodeo for sure! I’ll call them in the morning.

I’ll look into the service valve issue & I thought (& now hope) good to go for years.

Lots of great expertise on this forum. I appreciate the help. I’ll briefly go over my current status with “what compressor is this” as my prevailing concern. Unfortunately the photos aren’t loading but I have a York compressor - looks almost identical to those on my 1970s Ford P/Us. I asked “what” as I am not familiar with York - - still in business, remanufactured, Chinese counterfeit, etc? I think all the good suggestions by you folks have been complied with - at least complied with enough that after doing all those things we buttoned everything up, cranked it up, drove around the yard for a half hour & then went baling (Vermeer 605 Super M). Performed really cold A/C on a really hot day. After a couple hours with no issues I noticed a faint burnt rubber odor immediately followed by a fan belt flying by. So now a little exasperated & weighing the pros-cons of messing with this York compressor, getting another York-type or going with the Sanden conversion? Last factor - we farm (cattle) with these tractors. Try to keep them in strong mechanical condition & presentable but at the end of the day they’re tools and need to remain dependable. If we were wealthy we wouldn’t be on this forum to begin with & that might be my best compliment for RPF - the high quality info you folks bring to our operation.

IHC_1470 - good Q on your part. It was about a month ago when we got everything back together & I don’t recall exactly the PSIs but something such as 240/40 at 93 degrees. And I’m on this forum because I’m not sure what’s going on - including me overcharging or something else incorrectly. Doesn’t matter to me if I can fix it with a York, Sanden, Magic or a Prayer - as long as it works. Acem - I agree we can often put up with more than we want. But at 126 degrees I don’t mind taking the time & investing some cash in trying to figure out how to get the cabin temps down to a more reasonable level. I once had a mentor never miss a milking in 50 years. And he told me “that was 35 years ago & I’ve only missed one since then.” Thanks for all the help folks!

Acem & Lars, I appreciate your help & insight. First a/c tractor i’ve owned & bought it thinking it would be “cool” for hay baling. So far it has been a chore to keep the A/C working. My son & I did those things you’ve mentioned. But with my inexperience with A/C I must not have done all correctly. Finally got it to blow really cold air & 2 hours later the belt went flying & inside cab temp went to 126*. I’m leaning towards a Sanden conversion unit. Local CaseIH dealership once quoted $2K to go through & fix everything. Now I’m hoping to stay below that. But as we all know - hope is not a very good plan.

Thanks HydroTek

Everything else seems fine. Odor of burnt rubber followed a few moments later with fan-compressor belt flying by. Led me to suspect the compressor. Compressor looks like the one on the 1976 Ford P/U I almost got the Johnny Cash way at the factory. Pulley rotates about 1/2 an RPM then stops. Abilene Machine has a Sanden compressor plus conversion kit (except the TAG oil) for under $350. As Churchill stated - “now that we’re out of money we’ll need to start thinking.” I’m at the thinking stage as next hay cutting is a month away - - tractor is our baling tractor.

Yes on everything else still working. That’s why I was starting to settle on the compressor going bad - locked up. I still can’t get my pics to post, which I was going to ask the RPF on advice on a replacement.

Evidently the photos didn’t load, so please disregard.

What A/C unit is this? Everything worked fine & then just stopped - in the middle of baling hay.

Thanks Skinner. You’ve figured it out. Your equipment looks great & I agree on the mismatch of the high dollar paints. You have several rare machines & they look better than new. I’m off to buy some Krylon. - Jonathan

Thanks for the help! I’ll stand by for any measurements.

An awesome job! What paint & where from did you use. Any tips on paint source? Thanks! - Jonathan

Great tractor & great pull! You found a jewel. What magic did you use on the paint? And what tractor was the donor for the tricycle front end? Thanks for posting! - Jonathan

(573) 474-9295

Thank you. And your reasoning outpaces those who stated not to put much fuel in.

MrFred54, Acem & Dan Robinson - thanks for the insight & ideas. If our baler opens quicker with the new pressure relief valve then no reason to put in a new hydraulic pump & the aux tank can stay. But if I need to remove/replace the pump then likely the aux tank will be gone. Along with some of the others, you’ve helped.