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ComancheStarFarms

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Everything posted by ComancheStarFarms

  1. Thank you Bitty & Sparky. I’ll keep looking. I don’t care if they’re clamp or wedge lock as long as they’ll fit my 1066 (3.25 axle) 18.4 x 38” wheels. But they sure are hard to find - unless I am willing to pay $1000/pair which I can’t. - Jonathan
  2. Good info. Will the same Wedge Lock cast center for a 38” wheel from a 1086 work on a 1066? Or does a Wedge Lock cast center have to be specific for a 3.25” axle or specific to a 3.5” axle? My 1066 has light weight clamp on cast centers (probably off a 756?) & I would like to put heavy-original cast centers & all I can find at a reasonable price is 1086 Wedge Lock cast centers. Thanks, Jonathan
  3. Is there a difference in cast center wheels if they’re Wedge Lock or non WL? Can WL wheels from a 1086 fit the axles on a 1066 axle that currently has the non WL mounts? Certainly the difference in axle diameter (3.5” vs 3.25”) might be a factor. Thanks - Jonathan
  4. Thank you to everyone that made comments. You passed a lot of good info to me. I’ll plan on just rebuilding the 361 and maybe look at a turbo for it down the road. Just a quick question of curiosity - what is it about the 361 naturally aspirated motor in an 806 out performing the 414 NA motor in a 966? Thanks again to all! - Jonathan
  5. Your thoughts about pulling the 361 out & putting a 407 with turbo in it? Where do I find a DT407 in good shape?
  6. My 806 needs serious engine work. Would it be wiser to rebuild it as a stock 361 or a 407 or a 407 plus a turbo or find a DT407 and simply swap motors? Where do I find a rebuild kit? Where do I find a complete DT407 to swap? I mostly pull a 15’ bush hog and 12 wheel Vermeer hay rake. Thanks! - Jonathan
  7. I appreciate the offer though. I picked up a nice 660 near Slayton when we used to live in GF, ND 30 years ago. Neighbor here in southern Indiana still has it. You’re in some great farm country. Jonathan
  8. Southern Indiana about halfway between Louisville & Indianapolis. Not to far away from Cummins in Columbus, Indiana. But we do a lot of traveling between Longmont Colorado & Lawton Oklahoma. Does any of that put me close to you? Thanks, Jonathan
  9. I can’t come up with a bad reason for going to a straight drawbar - - unless it is difficult to find one in good shape that easily slides in & bolts on. Are straight drawbars for a 5088 easy to find & install with no modifications? What is a fair price for one? Thanks!
  10. We’ve pretty much stopped using our 50 for anything heavy - just for running our Vermeer 605 Super M baler. It has a step up/down drawbar that in the down position drags hay & in the up position binds the baler PTO. Any problem with replacing it with a straight drawbar such as what’s on a 1066? If ok to do then where best to get a good straight drawbar that will slide in and easily replace the factory step up/down drawbar? Thanks!
  11. We’ve pretty much stopped using our 50 for anything heavy - just for running our Vermeer 605 Super M baler. It has a step up/down drawbar that in the down position drags hay & in the up position binds the baler PTO. Any problem with replacing it with a straight drawbar such as what’s on a 1066? If ok to do then where best to get a good straight drawbar that will slide in and easily replace the factory step up/down drawbar? Thanks!
  12. Thanks to everyone that pitched in to help out. Turns out the carb float was somewhat loose and at different vibrations or angles it would either stick on the carb housing in the down position or in the up position and giving two different symptoms. Fixed and running good for two days now. Thanks again!
  13. Thanks for all the help. Hard to imagine what it was like working on IH equipment prior to RP forum. Finished planting beans this early evening so attacked the SM. Sure enough with a little bit of ether we can keep it running after it tries to stop running. We’ll next re-hit the fuel system hard. Thanks to all.
  14. Thanks again for all the help! When I converted this SM back in the 70s from 6V to 12V I included an external ballast resistor between the ignition switch & the coil. Today I removed the external resistor & replaced the coil with an internal resistor. Tractor still dies after a couple minutes of smooth running. As a couple of you have said I’ll go back to the carb & remove it & more thoroughly check it out including a good cleaning. Thanks to all of you.
  15. All of your ideas are very appreciated. We’re trying to finish planting SBs so I am not being as timely in getting to your suggestions as you are in helping me. I can not find any debris, gunk or dirt in the fuel tank, lines or in the carb. The tractor starts up very easily runs good, responds to the throttle just fine and then after 2-3.5 minutes it simply dies as if pushing in the ignition switch. It will restart again after about 60-75 seconds and goes through the same drill. But it won’t restart any faster then 60 seconds in case that gives you experts any useful info.
  16. I appreciate the good help KS Farm Dude & Super WD9! I’ll try both this evening. Trying to finish planting SB today. And using all IH equipment to get it done!
  17. Thank Farmall 1466. The tractor dies, regardless of throttle setting, almost as quick as if the ignition switch was pushed in (turned off). No popping or stuttering - dies stops running. Every time between 3 minutes & 3 minutes 15 seconds.
  18. My dependable Super M - until very recently - dies after about 3 minutes after starting. It starts easily, runs smoothly and then dies as if quickly fuel starved. I converted it from 6 volts to 12 volts a couple decades ago so it has an external resistor. I’ve drained and replaced the fuel, then used an auxiliary fuel tank incase the fuel tank is dirty & then replaced the coil with a new coil with an internal resistor (removed the exterior resistor) and it still starts easily, runs strong & smoothly and after 3 minutes simply dies. What am I missing? Thanks!
  19. Super A - thanks for being a big help. I look forward to your reply. - Jonathan
  20. What is the height measurement for a factory ROPS canopy on a 966 or 1066 from the foot platform in front of the seat to the canopy? Or any other easy place to measure that takes out variables like tire size, etc. Thanks!
  21. Thanks for all the good help! U shape tool looks sort of interesting. Sorry I don’t have to deal with it! - Jonathan
  22. Can anyone provide a source for the tools needed to adjust rear wheel width on a 5088? Does it just take a socket & breaker bar with cheater pipe to loosen the clamps? If so what size & type of socket, what size breaker bar & how long of a cheater pipe?Or does it take special tools & set-up? Thanks!
  23. Thanks Mike56073 - you’ve provided very good detail!
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