Nebraska1206

I'd like to find a HD front axle like that, to put under my 1026. Good luck on the hydraulic oil cooler, I don't have an answer for that one.

Just an educated guess, but I would say the clutch throwout fork that goes on that clutch shaft, that perhaps it isn't tight to that shaft anymore, and that the woodruff keys in the clutch shaft that go between the fork & that shaft are worn. The clutch throwout bearing carrier could also be worn, where the fork presses against the ears on the carrier. Pretty common for there to be wear there after 50 years or so. Have to split it for a clutch job to get at & replace those parts.

I had a customer encounter that same problem as well. Being at the dealership level, I seldom use the online lookup that's available to customers, so I don't find out about it until it's too late. However, I complain about the eParts system that dealerships have on a daily basis, so it goes hand in hand. I remember complaining about NextGen parts lookup when it first came out, but by the end, it was a good system, one that I still miss at the dealership level.

Gasket: 384078R2 O-ring: 238-5117 If the pad on the trans brake arm is worn, the arm assembly from CaseIH is 1981317C1. There are aftermarket options out there to replace just the pad, but I myself am not a fan of those options, as the original material was like an old woven clutch disc, and the aftermarket options are the same material as a 6-pad clutch disc, too metallic & agressive, IMO You didn't by chance call my dealer & get one of the partsgirls here, did you? Almost sounds like an answer they'd give....

Use an original 398511R1 muffler that would have been used on a 706 gas, or an 806 gas or diesel.

The ones along the side of the crankcase, from CaseIH, are a 41-1620 frost plug. 1-1/4" stainless cup plug.

Another option would be 34" to 38" step-up rims. Then you could use your existing 34" cast centers. You'll still need a set of regular driving lugs, though. But that'd be easier to find than the step-up driving lugs to attach a 38" rim to a 34" hub.

Take the bolt out, and get on the spindle with a big, long pipe wrench. Start turning it, it'll eventually come loose & be able to get it out.

Group 3EE's are a 12 volt battery that is long & skinny like the 2E six-volt batteries are. They fit perfectly in a 706/756, just have to redo your cables for two 12 volt batteries instead.

A 1486 ring & pinion is a 13 & 51 tooth count, whereas a 1586 ring & pinion is a 16 & 49 tooth count. The 1586 ring & pinion is indeed much faster, and if installed into a 1486 (or anything from a 706 up to a 1486), higher wheel & ground speeds will be achieved.

All the work to do that, and they can't get the exhaust to exit through the top of the hood properly? 😕

Yep, that plastic filter is a Fleetguard FF42000 "user friendly" fuel filter.

That one is listed as a different number for the Hydro tractors. Maybe it'd work to put a clutch up against, not sure.

680712C91 or 282208A1, yes, those are the correct 11" flywheel, would have been used in 666 or early 686's w/ a D312 engine.

1266865C1 is the "clean-up" hydraulic filter that fits in place of the 528493R3 filter, but at $64.25 & needing to make two "dummy" bypass valves for the hydraulic filters (on a 5x88, anyways, you need two), I'd be temped to just use two regular hydraulic filters & change them in short order after a few hours.