Nebraska1206

Two of a 104809C1 & one of a 104053C1 are the ISO mount bushings you need

Here's the couplers I was talking about, on the back of my 1026 Hydro. Fit perfectly in the original IH holders, and are one-handed push/pull

Seems like there's always a good used D310 that comes available from a combine or cotton picker. Of course, that all depends on location, but I see them listed ever so often on various Facebook pages, and every now & then on BigIron. The D310 was a rather popular engine for IH, so there are parts around there for them.

That's sharp, I like that!

If you have the two-piece aluminum breakaway holders for your original Pioneer couplers, CaseIH p/n A177478 will work as a new style push/pull coupler, and will fit perfectly in your original breakaway clamps. I put these on a lot of my tractors, for one-handed coupling of hydraulic hoses.

I recall seeing that one advertised, tractor looked pretty straight, the big rear tires are what caught my eye.

So originally, an 826's hydraulic couplers would have been the Pioneer type female couplers. There would have originally been hoses that ran from the check valve blocks, down to the couplers themselves that were held in by a two-piece aluminum bracket, to give the couplers a breakaway, in the event that an implement came unhooked, so the hydraulic hoses would uncouple, rather than rip and tear. At some point, it appears your 826 was converted to the IH coupler blocks that are common to 66/86 series tractors. I'm guessing, at that time, the check valve block was removed from the RH valve/remote outlets. I've removed that check valve block as well from my 1256, many years ago. Have several of them laying in the spare parts shed. The use of the steel hydraulic lines to the IH coupler blocks intrigues me, I'm wondering what application those lines were for? I'm thinking late 656/666/686, but I'm not certain.

This by chance the 856 narrow front w/ a boom, that was advertised on Facebook, had a bad 301 gas engine? 23.1-34 rear rubber?

I'd open the bottoms of the cans, and leave them on there, like a wrap!

Yep, you're good

They do make a frost plug heater, part number 106725A1. All of my 361 & 407 powered tractors have this frost plug heater on them.

55 ft/lbs

The only real damage is if there's no raincap or cover over top of the straight pipe, and the tractor is left outside exposed to the elements, and moisture is allowed to run down the pipe, into the manifold, and then in turn into whatever exhaust valves are open at that time.

I'd set it back where the book calls for, 2 degrees ATDC.

We have a straight pipe on our 856. Its primarily used for tractor pulling, which is good, because I wouldn't want to listen to that thing bellar and bark all day long for field/farm use.

CaseIH at one time did offer an aluminum replacement valve cover for the 400 series engine. 316349A1 was the part number. It is no longer available new through CaseIH

Caterpillar bolt part number 8S-4741 is 9/16" x 5-1/2" Cat bolts are some excellent hardware.

Sounds like you should be a website designer in addition to a partsman.......

Okay, then per the parts diagram, hose p/n 3132144R1 is the hose you need with water manifold 3055254R1. The parts diagram lists a few different water manifolds, the one illustrated I believe is the replacement version. Yours is one of the original production water manifolds.

The H1C Holset is a good turbo, the only thing that comes to mind is the bolt pattern for attaching the turbo to the exhaust manifold. If you get an exhaust manifold from a salvage yard, or wherever, for a turbocharged IH 400 series engine, the turbo flange on the IH manifold is a T4 flange. Some Holsets can be a T4 flange, but more than likely, if it came off a Dodge w/ a 5.9L Cummins, it'll have the smaller T3 flange. You'd either need an adapter, swap out exhaust housings on the turbo, or just use a turbo w/ a T4 flange that's a straightforward bolt-on for a 400 series IH engine.

On the coolant manifold, there is a casting number. In your photo, its just to the left of your circled area. A D179 does list two different hoses here, depending on what coolant manifold the engine has.

The top of the hood needs some rubbing compound first, before the wax. That'll help get the crud off & out of the old paint & then it'll wax up nice.

I've seen several engines receive the updated rocker arm stands and yet retain their original side mount crankcase breather over the years.

Thought the top breather was necessary if you overhauled & updated to the wide-gap piston rings on an earlier engine?

396398R1 and 396508R1 are the two steel banjo lines that go to the steering bolster.