HydroTek

Sorry for not being more clear - yeah the other plug sets the pressure be sure to put the smaller back where you found it -- that one sets the standby pressure -- 350-400 psi

84573150 is the pump with the straight shaft is your gear in good shape ? 21 teeth and a spacer or 23 teeth without the spacer you also need the foam oil dam seal that is glued to the pump 69352C1 3M 847 adhesive is used

Yup -- remove the plug and the adjustment is inside

Here is a fairly decent video showing how a compensator works on a Rexroth pump -- which is very similar to the one you have We need to determine if the pressure is the same at 1000 as it is at wide open tho -- first -- lower pressure at idle would indicate a leak or bad pump -- those would be different procedures to figure which it is You would adjust the valve that is closest to the pump on yours -- if the pressure at idle is good -- 2800 or 3000 psi would not be a problem -- be sure your gauge is of good quality and reads accurately

Before we start assuming things can you get that 2650 at 1000 rpm ? -- or do you need more speed

Plenty of H's around -- just get a different housing

You asking about the pins in the U-joint ? Small pin goes thru the larger pin -- small pin has to come out first -- they are pressed in tightly Usually slop is where the lever/handle connects to the upper shaft

Yes , adjust the high pressure standby up some You know how ?

Can get the housing off the tractor inside of a couple of hours if everything goes good Cleaning the top area of all the crud is probably the hardest part -- difficult to get the pressure washer into all the needed spots Most of the bolts are done by hand -- so good box end wrenches are a must there are a few that a socket can be used -- and less that can be removed with an impact Seems the guys at the factory liked to use gobs of 515 and got it on the bolt threads so bolts will be stubborn to remove Remove valve stack has to be removed lines of course drawbar top link holder and top link and oil is a given Balance of the unit is not too bad slide a chain behind the top link pin and hold it to the left with a spacer this will get the balance pretty good use a pipe on the PTO shaft to help prolly need to hit the housing with a hammer to break the 515 loose -- be sure you have removed all of the bolts -- leave the nuts on the ends of the 2 studs for safety The actual pto gears are pretty easy to get out once the housing is on the floor -- need 3/16 x 2" allen head bolts to get the shift pins out (and install) -- so get a couple at least

Remove the carb drain plug and see how much fuel runs out if there is a restriction , the fuel will slow down to a trickle or drip -- but still, 2 carbs and same problem ?? -- not the carb

Just use the cheap Tractor Supply or Rural King oil if you are worried about seal leakage -- replace the seals many of the originals were made from leather -- and are rotted out Chicago Rawhide made good inexpensive seals back in the day but leather will deteriorate over time Loose the drain plugs every once in a while to let any water out and fix the shifter "boots" so water is less likely to get in .. and park inside if you can

Those pins can only be where they are suppose to be -- or broken not sure what you are asking ...

So the 540/1000 shaft pushes on a stub inside of the shift slider (29) the 2 pins (23) ride in the groove you see in the pic and move the slider (22) the output shaft (37) has a slot that the 2 pins work in -- this limits the slider gear See the dimple in the pto shaft (10) ? that is what I weld flat Oh yeah, common for switch (36) to short internally and cause problems in the PTO controller -- burnt traces I usually disconnect the wires and tape them up or just cut the harness purpose is to signal the dash to read out 540 or 1000 you can also put a 3 amp fuse in the hot side wire if you want to continue to use the switch

Sounds like you discovered the failure Look at the shaft end and the shift stub inside the hollow shaft seen that stub wear to fit into the center bore on the shaft a few times I usually weld the shaft center bore so it is flat on the end -- on the 1000 end of the shaft Note if the shift stub has worn (usually a point or mushroomed), but the shifter can still get into 540 then weld on the end of the shaft until the shaft is long enough to put the shifter into 540 you can "get by" until a convenient time to tear into the unit when you push the shaft in -- there should be just enough slack to get the snap ring in -- no more than that Then check the shafts on your implements for "easy sliding" clean and grease as needed check also for binding shafts when there is torque on them -- seen shafts wear and lock when load was on

Fingers are sitting pretty good - so clutch is not worn badly yet splines in the clutch cover or the rivets holding the spline part most likely from your description of the problem Remove the top link cover and start the tractor you can see the pto shaft in there oil level should be about 3/4 way up on that shaft if it is not turning / or jerking -- then the clutch shaft has failed pull a remote on pressure and see if the shaft stops if it is actually turning you will need a clutch cover -- input shaft -- shaft bearing - seals and likely housing snout -- throw out bearing and pilot bearing would be an "always when you are in there" part

3123598R1 clip but oring replaces the clips 1707280

Sounds like you will be splitting the tractor to put in a new clutch and PTO input shaft Remove the inspection cover and see if there is metal in there The pto input drives not only the pto unit -- but the hydraulic pumps also You can look up in the inspection hole while the engine is running and see the shaft -- likely not turning or at least stripping in the splines

Two carbs - same problem = not the carb Check that intake gasket spray whatever you have lots of around the ports with the engine running -- pump oilcan also works -- soap water in a spray bottle You are looking for a change in the running of the engine soon as you spray the intake ports

ST678 is the bearing number for the bearing with several balls There was a split race bearing many years ago also for heavy duty -- but I am forgetting the number

Nice rigging there -- I dont remember ever having just the right size pipe to make one like that -- usually just weld up some scrap to make a similar jig to fit the spring -- handy if the spring breaks near the plug - can re-use the spring and let the adjustment out more -- else just use a cut off wheel and clip the coils to release the plug

16 and 17 and 20 in this pic 86629543 oring - 16 the body oring is not showing a part number -- but is a couple sizes larger so should be easily matched possibly 9992298 is the same -- the small oring #20 also does not show a part number -- would have to be matched I have seen the little poppet break a few times - 22 16 and 20 are likely the problem leakers #17 just seals to the outside world Messicks

Not a bad job if you have a vice large enough to clamp the spring body in -- or make a "clamp" to go around the spring and put that in the vice the plug threads into the spring -- so need to hold the spring back from the end a little and let the coils expand for the plug -- lube helps / oil drive a screwdriver in the end coil to get the separation for the plug to start then should just thread in -- helps also the grind a slight taper on the end of the spring so it does not dig into the plug -- die grinder works well for this -- only needs the end rounded to take the sharp end off if there is one

Assist cylinder on this clutch ?? -- if yes , there are certain adjustment procedures to follow "two speed" says the MCV pump is bad or a gasket blown Need to start with getting the clutch adjusted correctly -- also would be good to remove the bottom inspection plate and look at the clutch fingers / throw out bearing

Yup, that '9 will be fine on 540 for what you are doing

Time for both of you guys to get the oil pan off