HydroTek

That is very true -- the dealer oil is made to work with the current machines they are selling oil for a 50 year old tractor is of little concern to them

if you gonna modify , then just as well put a 12 valve 5.9 in there -- plenty of old rusted out Dodge trucks sitting around for a donor engine -- Really depends on how "handy" you are if you can do the job or not I would go with a '56 series because of the shifter -- the '06 was not one of my favorites strictly because of that straight line shift

You half way there -- flip that old disk over and take the pic again that new disk looks like the hub is on the wrong side like I mentioned

There is no agency that regulates hydraulic oil so oil companies can put whatever they want on the label But -- if you stick to the tractor manufactures oil , then you get the good stuff -- just costs a lot for older tractors

Well usually not just a TA -- the clutch is usually in the mix -- and MCV rebuild

Seen a lot of loaders over the years most farm loader buckets do not fit all that well after years of no grease if there is less than 1/4" play -- it is Farmer good easy enough to weld in new bushings and make the pins whatever size you want or better yet , weld on a skid loader coupler and then can interchange buckets without driving pins in and out Those pins were an odd size as I remember possible metric -- never measured them

Good catch -- I missed that part -- yeah that is the clutch plate side -- need to measure on the other side you can see in the bottom pic , that the hub assembly is on top of the finger plate and in the top picture the hub in on the other side of the finger plate I had a batch several years back that we sent back because they were like this -- not sure if this is the same problem

Flywheel was cut one too many times -- how much was cut off by the machine shop ? there are dimensions for the steps and total depth I do not have them handy right now -- but hopefully someone will post them -- you can have the center cut to give clearance and get one more time out before the flywheel must be replaced Lay a straight edge across the hub (not the center with the splines)and measure down to the pads on each

"bucket, 3 point and PTO all work, any ideas" Bucket working ?? so this has a loader on it ? Remotes share the oil for the 3pt "the lever moves both ways, but nothing happens," -- nothing at all ?? -- is the lever even connected ? Like to see pictures of a 674 Farmall -- my scrapbook is incomplete

Start at the throttle handle and work to the govenor get all of the slack out of the linkages this may require bushings, welding and re-drilling , building up of worn rods , etc. Same goes for the govenor to carb linkages also flat spots on the govenor weights Most of this stuff can be "fixed" without replacement

484 -- Tractor Supply premium in the black bucket

The sprag was wider in that TA than the original , so the gear and sprag were different the first gears were machined to fit the sprag had a few of them apart back when we used to rebuild in the shop then like Snoshoe mentioned parts were not available -- so we put in the reman units only Got some nice tool rewards from putting in remans from the incentive program

Had one a while back that the spring hub was riveted on the wrong side of the main disk look at what you have there and see if the disk is assembled correctly since you have both in hand a comparison should be easy

That whole series of tractors used the "same" clutch until you got to the bigger models -- 884 and up the only differences were the amount of pads We had a 2 pad come for replacement a long time back -- funny looking thing it was

that bunch is out of Poland This one has the load sense line connection -- rear ports and joy stick Shipping may be an issue - or not

293248A1 is the 6 pad disk PLATE ASSY, clutch driven disc, for 454 and 2400A tractors with synchromesh transmission The original was a 3 pad -- but I never put those in unless we were out of the 6 pad Flipping the disk over -- the bolts still contact ?

Need either a diode or an indicator light in the alternator R wire so yeah , you should be using a 6 volt coil and a resistor -- with the jumper terminal at the starter solenoid that way the engine runs on 6 volts (resisted 12) but pushes the full 12 volts to the coil during cranking if there is wording on the coil that is on the tractor -- would be good to post it here Else take a resistance reading across the 2 terminal posts with one of the wires disconnected from the harness

That is an "I" model 656 -- the whole front part has to be removed so radiator and support oil cooler and all that stuff

Thought the 330 was a 6 volt battery ?

I did not see in the book (messicks) about gas or diesel -- that tractor could have been either way so the parts books we have readily available are not always complete even the case-ih site is incomplete in the descriptions -- we have kids that have never seen tractors editing the books and diagrams -- the old paper dealer books would be accurate -- but not many of those around any longer because of computers -- and too many of the computerized information is just cut-n-paste from someone else's work you have the answer by counting the teeth -- get an 11 tooth starter CCW rotation -- all of the gasser starters were the "same" for those models that had the gas engine option

Low voltage when cranking bad battery connections or bad power to the coil use your meter and check voltage at the starter main cable when cranking then also at the coil input

if only for a short time -- then no damage -- heat will determine potential damage -- feel of the coil but long enough to get the engine to fire should be no problem at all Where are you looking for spark ? -- at the plugs or at the coil wire ? Cap and rotor good ?

Combine diagrams are difficult to figure , since they give partial information in one diagram -- then you have to search other related diagrams -- really never liked them Black wire hot when cranking ? that machine should have the oil pressure switch back at the engine will be the 2 wire switch next to the filters -- the single wire sender works the oil pressure gauge anyways , one side of the switch will be hot -- the other side will become hot when the engine runs -- you can pull the connector and jump that connector to power the cab without running the engine Also have had problems in the diode pack -- that is part of the gauge check system when you are holding the key in the crank position -- gauge check , lights all of the warning lights and powers the gauges when the key is in crank -- just a pile of diodes inside that thing -- you can check with a meter if needed -- but not all are turned the same direction -- what a hot mess

Wonder why the lift cylinder is in the wrong hole -- that is why the frame has a cutout torched in it That loader was never intended to be on a 706, too large of a frame on that tractor -- tho brackets could have positioned the loader lower and farther forward

Yeah those bolts may be 5/16" -- been a day since I had one of those apart Spring hub goes to the rear on that clutch -- have seen too much turned off the flywheel and the hub hits the bolts -- fix is replace the flywheel -- or cut the center thinner where the bolts tighten only one style of pressure plate for those There were a couple of different shaft seal setups -- you need to remove and give pictures so we can see which you have -- remove the aluminum cover and pull the hollow shaft out -- then either seals will be in the hollow shaft or in the part left in the tractor there used to be an update kit to use the later (intermediate version) seals -- very latest , the hollow shaft has to be replaced , since the seal is inside of it