HydroTek

Yeah your drawing is correct -- common loader connection for the '95 series tractors and those like them Curious what that "extra" line connects to -- I have not seen that before (the line connected to the middle of the return line) See the broken wire ? maybe a hungry critter had a snack

Give that tractor a bath ... LoL Top link picture -- the line over the remote valve has to come off The fitting toward the front is supply for the loader valve The extra line connected in the center -- connects to the rear fitting Second link shows the plug under the axle where the return from the loader valve goes Hang onto the line in case you take the loader off in the future or sell the tractor

Several circuits using the LM3914 (LM3915) chip in this search -- it may help you troubleshoot your monitor Looks like the potentiometer on your tailings elevator is used as a voltage divider to give signal to the chip circuit , to select the individual LED's Those "bad" diodes may not be all that is wrong with the board -- something caused the diodes to fail https://duckduckgo.com/?q=led+voltage+indicator+circuit&t=newext&atb=v264-1&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images This one I think would be close to what you have -- tho it does not use the potentiometer to vary the voltage, the principle is close http://www.usbekits.com/blog--news/january-14th-2013

Pictures of the circuit board please Curious how they are switching the LED's Processor chip or zener diodes ?

Can you not put one of the 1600 monitors on there ? and use the existing sensor pads ?

Here is a diagram

Depends on if you messed with the compensator adjustments -- don't want to blow the lines off the tractor -- I have seen this happen Tractors that used the "dynamic load sensing" used a different procedure , according to the book (orifice setup in the steering motor)-- but all load/flow sensing pumps can be set using the procedure below So, remove the signal line from the compensator -- plug the line leave the fitting on the compensator open Use a gauge with a valve in a remote -- or better yet put the gauge at the pump outlet (cap the line) -- the valve (close the valve) protects the 600 psi gauge from a spike that can happen when you start the tractor Set the flow control spool in the compensator (closest to the pump) so your gauge reads 390-410 psi Reconnect the compensator line and using a 3000 psi gauge , set the pressure to 2800 psi -- by turning the compensator spool farthest from the pump

Where did you find instruction to set a compensator like that ? You sure of which spool is which ? The high pressure adjustment sets the max pressure -- nothing more -- looking for 2800 psi

Early used a 3 speed fan motor -- identified with 4 colored wires Late used a single speed motor with a resistor for the speeds The OP has Low and Med speeds -- Need to identify the motor type Remove the cab filter and look at the motor may be just the resistor is bad Power for the Hi speed is ran thru the thermal fuse mounted on the side of the resistor not shown on the diagram

86 (you can see on the diagram) is power from the fan switch to the relay coil 85 is ground for the relay your test light or meter should show these results -- feel to see if the relay is clicking when the fan switch is turned to Hi Ohm the coil on the relay (85-86) or or connect 12 volts to see if the relay clicks 30-87 are the switch contacts inside the relay -- even if the relay will click, the switch can be bad Prolly easiest to sub in another relay -- Bosh / Hella mini relay is interchangeable from other locations on that tractor

The addition of the diode fixed the back feed problem

Check that the high speed , relay has not vibrated out of it's socket zip tied to the harness , beside of the fan switch

Never liked any of the '06 series , because of the range shifter -- have to go thru Low each time you need to get Reverse Maybe swap out the shifter for the '56 - '66 series would change my mind

Brake housing removed, as others have mentioned you may have lost a roller from the bull pinon bearing , and dropped in the bull gear teeth Depending on your lifting equipment -- removing the rear axle bull gear housing is not too difficult Remove the drain plug on that side, and see if any metal comes out

I welded one back together, and as far as I know it is still running not optimal, but that is an option if the shaft and basket are still in good shape they use a "spin weld" to hold the basket -- not a reliable weld in my opinion Need to turn the shaft in a lathe or V blocks so you are sure the basket is centered -- before finishing the weld You can remove the PTO and almost get a hand on the F/R clutch -- maybe that would be easier than splitting to check if the shaft is broken

FWA is farther forward on a separate block Anyways, sounds like you need to get a pressure gauge on the little test port -- you can move that port to the other positions -- R and F if needed

Does your valve not have 2 solenoids on the rh side ?

Betting the basket for the reverse clutch has popped the weld Had a few that burned the trace on the circuit board in the controller (solenoid does not power) -- this is usually repairable for pennies, if you can solder -- I usually just add a jumper wire When a solenoid coil goes bad -- they usually crack (visible) and short out -- or if the harness shorts -- the traces on the circuit board can fail before the fuse pops Never , ever put a larger fuse in the drive controller -- find and fix the problem instead

Valve on the right side dumps the pressure -- if there is a blown diode that valve my only work in one direction -- got to check that stuff

I forget what the solenoid is called, but on the RH side of the valve, that one also has to work -- it gets power thru the diode pack for F and R one trick to get the tractor into the shop is to swap the plug with the diff lock -- then engage the diff lock switch to power the solenoid You should check the pressure on the inlet to the control valve -- check plug

The light comes on by the power that is sent to the reverse solenoid Check for voltage at the solenoid -- check that the relay has not backed out of the socket you can use a small wrench on the end of the solenoid -- if there is power, the wrench will stick

Had one once that the basket broke free from the shaft -- still had pretty good pressure in that direction tho, was odd Reverse light coming on ?

I would test the pump independently of the tractor -- remove the big line and connect your flow meter to the pump, return oil to the fill port -- remove the signal line at the compensator and plug the tractor side -- close the valve on the flow meter to check low pressure standby -- looking for 390-410 Connect a fitting to the pump outlet cap, and run that to the compensator -- this will put the pump on high pressure standby -- set the compensator to 2500 psi or whatever you want Open the valve on the flow meter and see if the pump can make flow at idle @ 1000 psi -- then check for rated at 2000 RPM

Check the signal line elbow for a ball (use a bucket to catch), where the signal line connects to the compensator -- the signal check ball can blow out of the remote valve and migrate down the signal line, where it will stop at the elbow -- and act as a check for the oil -- use a second wrench to support the elbow, the threads are easy to break off . You can remove the ball, but will have one of the remotes that does not work correctly -- there is a small "star" retainer that holds the ball in the remote valve port -- dang thing pops out and cause all this