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Binder686

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About Binder686

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/25/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    oakland md
  • Interests
    Farming and pulling IH tractors
    own 7250 ,mx 120,1066, 966 factory narrow front (pap bought new) ,856,686 ,666 ,656, and two farmall m, also 1964 ih c100 pickup great grand dad bought new 38,00 miles

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  1. Could be blowing compression out around injector seen that happen
  2. You could try it wrap your hand around it or put in a cup of water not the first time new parts came faulty
  3. More than likely it lost its charge on the head of it that little coil that straps to suction line has a charge of gas in it if there is no gas in it it won’t push valve open
  4. Yep it’s lettig some thru just not enough
  5. If you notice the 5 million still has 12 hole wheels in this pic still not sure why they ever got changed
  6. Should hold a little over 3lbs
  7. That or under charges yes it is supposed to lower the pressure to turn liquid into vapor but if it doesn’t allow enough thru it will cause the problem you described. The evap needs to run above 32 or it will freeze up I would try using a 30 lb can before I would rip it out.
  8. If you have frost that is always the point of restriction or it will frost if under charged. The pressure is low enough the saturation point of the Freon is under 32 degrees. Best way to charge is with a 30lb can an weigh it in at 85% original charge of r 12. Or charge it to 35 psi on low side with fan on purge. I’m a commercial refrigeration mech so please don’t be afraid to ask or pm me
  9. It’s the expansion valve if you have frost at it
  10. Your not removing any heat from system is why heard pressure is staying low hard to believe but basically your just using high side as a tank no different than a bottle of refrigerant. Saw it before. I would start at dryer or expansion valve. Never know expansion valve may have lost charge on sensing bulb or it got a knock it it and lost pressure on power head that’s the round top on expansion valve.
  11. With this day and age of plc controls surely some one could follow the printed circuit and make it so the same thing I know the one guy did it any one work at some type of manufacture plant I know we’re I work plc are on everything pretty simple one you understand them just have to have someone right the program down load it and wire it and away you go
  12. If compressor pulls into a vacuum the compressor is good that’s how we test them. You have a blockage somewhere have to take things apart one at a time and blow nitrogen through them I know everyone doesn’t have it air will work but I don’t recommend. I would start with expansion valve or dryer. Easiest way to tell if ya dryer is to see if line coming out of dryer is sweating. Should be a pressure port in top of cab before expansion valve to see what pressure is there it will be a r 12 or 1/4 flare. But those are the places I would start
  13. 1 inch impact and oil and clean axle never had one move ever no paint or rust on anything! Hard to beat that jar of a impact with a oiled thread
  14. It’s in the it Manual to to test your hand pump that way. I can take a picture after bit. I read this trying to figure this out but your right I need to ck steering pressure just haven’t rigged up the stuff yet
  15. My 10 doesn’t steer hard but it’s not as effortless as my 856 etc. I put a ta in it a few years ago lube and lock up pressure is good 23/295. But if I remover correctly can’t you turn the relief on bottom left to raise steering pressure. I believe the hand pump is good because it will turn wheels without tractor running. I just want to verify I think dirtboyz has said to do this before thanks!
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