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chadd

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  1. chadd

    66 series cabs

    Funny you mention that feature, I tilted the Hiniker cab back on our 966 last year to change the brake line from the master cylinder to the LH brake housing. Worked pretty slick to get the platform out from under the cab for access to the line. I removed the front mounting bolts, used a pry bar to get some room, put two nuts and washers and 4 feet of threaded rod in each side. Threaded the nuts apart and the cab pivoted right up. The movement limit for pivoting it was the heater core hose to the engine. Rather than pivoting the windows back, we usually just lift them off the hinges and store them in the shed during the summer and put them back on for winter. We leave the front window in year-round, though; just too heavy and bulky to remove over the hood.
  2. Local farmer has a 2+2 for sale, IH 3588. It looks in pretty good shape, and was thinking of taking a look at it. Just was wondering if there are any weak spots or issues I should look out for? There aren't a lot of them in my area, so I really don't have any experiences I've heard pivots can be an issue if not greased regularly along with the hoses and universal joints in the pivot. Anything else I should be aware of? Looking at using it for pulling a 9 shank IH 6000 Conser-Till.
  3. Not sure if you were aware of this or not, but the 806 has an excess fuel device in the injection pump to make starting easier in lower temperatures. During cranking, if you hold the throttle wide open, the injection pump delivers additional fuel. When the engine RPM increases above starter speed, the device disengages, but once the engine starts to fire, be sure to pull the throttle back down. In my experience, it makes a huge difference on cold weather starting, but it won't make up for bad batteries or cables and I would still recommend using a block heater if you know you need the tractor ahead of time.
  4. First tractor I ever rode along in was a red 2096 rental that my dad got for tillage when the IH 660 went down, as it was the only tractor on the farm with an enclosed cab. After the rental was returned, he bought a 966 with a Hiniker cab and I rode along for hours upon hours on that tractor. First tractor I technically ever drove was the 656 Hydro, but either mom or dad had to be on it with me until I got old enough. First tractor I drove solo was a McCormick W6. Dad had me follow behind the grain drill (IH #10, single disc openers, alfalfa seed attachment, mechanical lift, with drag chains) with the W6 and a roller to pack down the seedbed after he planted soybeans. Still have the 966 and the W6; the 656 Hydro went to the junkyard when I was in middle school. I still miss the Hydro (I drove it a lot when I was in elementary school), but don't miss its fuel consumption.
  5. We have a 966, never seemed any better or worse than any other normally aspirated IH diesel. Like others have said, if you think a D-414 is bad, you need to drive something with a Detroit 53 or 71 series in it. Being around those engines under load for a few hours makes the whole world seem like a silent movie... Everyone around here always called them "Screamin Jimmies" for that reason.
  6. Thanks for the responses. Two more combine questions: 1) Is there a common issue that causes the header to drift down when setup is changed to use the AHHC? My combine is an early 1979 1440, so it is the twin stick, not the electric over hydraulic. When I had it set up for the corn head, the head stays up seemingly forever. After doing the setup changes for the AHHC, when the valve is in the neutral position, the head drops so fast from the top of travel that I can't get the transport lock tube to engage because it has fallen too far; even when I jump down the ladder after just letting go of the valve. 2) I noticed that I have a cracked elephant ear/impeller blade on the combine, so I am looking to replace them all. Anyone have better luck with OEM ones vs. aftermarket? Any benefits to one vs. the other? It seems like Kile and Marlin kits come up frequently in the archives. For info, we do soybeans, corn, and occasionally winter wheat. I am not running large tracts of land and am not really trying to squeeze every ounce of productivity out of the combine, but figured if I have to replace them, I might as well see what the options are and what the cost difference is. The combine is equipped with the standard rotor and has the 3 factory elephant ears with chrome wear bars. It seems to work OK, but I am usually limited to 2.5mph in beans due to rotor rumble. I noticed in the "Harvesting Product Support" catalog there was a complete rotor hub assembly (p/n B95414) listed for 40 and 60 series combines, but it only shows 2 elephant ears, not 3. Are the two blades supposed to improve feeding? I thought it seems odd that the dealer wants almost as much for a set of 3 original style blades and chrome wear bars as for the entire new rotor hub assembly?
  7. A few questions: 1) There is a ticking noise (kind of like a turn signal) under the RH console any time the key is in the run position. Is this normal? 2) Was working on putting poly skid shoes on the header and the temps dropped and look to stay there. Anyone ever put them on in 30-40 deg weather? The instructions say not to install below 60 deg I am guessing when the plastic expands in warm weather it could pop the rivets out? 3) How do you remove the skid shoes on an 820 header? It is a piece of cake to change them from the high to the low setting, but I can't figure out how to remove them for service? I took the cotter pins out but none of the rods or cams seem to want to slide out or into the neighboring shoe.. Chad
  8. Thanks for the measurements! Chad
  9. Think these should have what you need. I bookmarked them in case I ever needed them; been lucky so far...
  10. Thanks for the pictures, that is the first time I've ever seen the actual parts close up. If you have time to take some measurements this weekend, that would be great, otherwise when ever you get around to it is fine with me. Also, let me know what I owe you for your time and effort. The part numbers I have for a W6 are: Item Description Part Number 10 Reservoir Tank Strap 355544R11 17 Reservoir Support and Tool Box 355545R91
  11. I found a hydraulic tank, relief valve, and christmas tree hyd. valve assembly for a W6 from a tractor at a junkyard a few months ago. Problem is that someone had already taken the reservoir mount/toolbox (item 17) and the straps (item 10). I was curious if anyone might have these parts on a parts tractor that they might be willing to sell or happened to see them on a junkyard walk-through? I called a couple yards in SE WI that used to have W6's lying around, but I guess they were all scrapped in the last few years. Otherwise, if someone would be willing to give me some dimensions off of theirs, I could fab up something pretty close that would do the job and look mostly original. Thanks!
  12. chadd

    Gasoline ?

    Automotive fuels have two ratings commonly used in North America, RON and MON. RON is the research octane number and MON is the motor octane number. The two acronyms refer to different setups and test procedures used on the Waukesha CFR variable-compression engines to obtain the value. The results of a fuel test are compared with two known values (n-heptane and iso-octane). Gasoline with an octane rating of 87 would have similar knock points as a mixture of 87% iso-octane and 23% n-heptane. MON is a more strenuous test (higher intake air temps, higher engine speed, and more aggressive ignition timing), so the rating is always lower. Av gas uses different settings all together and I think the ratings refer to lean and rich settings, but I can't say for sure. When I ran a CFR in school, I only performed the tests for gasoline, not av-gas. Also, I didn't follow the procedure for RON or MON to the letter, as the lab dealt more with the effect of knock on the engine dyno output and the differences between the actual and theoretical Otto Cycle (mostly the negative work in the actual cycle due to friction and pumping losses during the intake stroke). Waukesha Engines built the CFR pretty stout (the long piston skirt is a big plus); the professor had the engine knocking to the point that it sounded like the piston was hitting the head for 10 minutes at a time and that lab has been performed every year for multiple classes over the past 30-40 years...
  13. It states in the "Standard Torque Data for Nuts and Bolts" page used throughout IH service manuals (for example, GSS-1346-G) in the 1950's and 1960's: "**The center marking identifies the bolt manufacturer. The IH monogram is currently used. Some bolts may still have a raised dot which previously identified IH bolts." It states in the General Section of the ISS-1039-1 Engine Manual (A service manual created in 1977 that is the final revision of engine rebuild data all of the 1939 and newer 4 cylinder gasoline engines) that: "Original equipment standard hardware is defined as Type 8, coarse thread bolts and nuts and thru-hardened flat washers (Rockwell "C" 38-45), all phosphate coated and assembled without supplemental lubrication."
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