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About chadd

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  1. chadd

    966 - Loudest Tractor IH Ever Built???

    We have a 966, never seemed any better or worse than any other normally aspirated IH diesel. Like others have said, if you think a D-414 is bad, you need to drive something with a Detroit 53 or 71 series in it. Being around those engines under load for a few hours makes the whole world seem like a silent movie... Everyone around here always called them "Screamin Jimmies" for that reason.
  2. chadd

    1440 and 15' 820 grain header questions

    Thanks for the help!
  3. chadd

    1440 and 15' 820 grain header questions

    Thanks for the responses. Two more combine questions: 1) Is there a common issue that causes the header to drift down when setup is changed to use the AHHC? My combine is an early 1979 1440, so it is the twin stick, not the electric over hydraulic. When I had it set up for the corn head, the head stays up seemingly forever. After doing the setup changes for the AHHC, when the valve is in the neutral position, the head drops so fast from the top of travel that I can't get the transport lock tube to engage because it has fallen too far; even when I jump down the ladder after just letting go of the valve. 2) I noticed that I have a cracked elephant ear/impeller blade on the combine, so I am looking to replace them all. Anyone have better luck with OEM ones vs. aftermarket? Any benefits to one vs. the other? It seems like Kile and Marlin kits come up frequently in the archives. For info, we do soybeans, corn, and occasionally winter wheat. I am not running large tracts of land and am not really trying to squeeze every ounce of productivity out of the combine, but figured if I have to replace them, I might as well see what the options are and what the cost difference is. The combine is equipped with the standard rotor and has the 3 factory elephant ears with chrome wear bars. It seems to work OK, but I am usually limited to 2.5mph in beans due to rotor rumble. I noticed in the "Harvesting Product Support" catalog there was a complete rotor hub assembly (p/n B95414) listed for 40 and 60 series combines, but it only shows 2 elephant ears, not 3. Are the two blades supposed to improve feeding? I thought it seems odd that the dealer wants almost as much for a set of 3 original style blades and chrome wear bars as for the entire new rotor hub assembly?
  4. A few questions: 1) There is a ticking noise (kind of like a turn signal) under the RH console any time the key is in the run position. Is this normal? 2) Was working on putting poly skid shoes on the header and the temps dropped and look to stay there. Anyone ever put them on in 30-40 deg weather? The instructions say not to install below 60 deg I am guessing when the plastic expands in warm weather it could pop the rivets out? 3) How do you remove the skid shoes on an 820 header? It is a piece of cake to change them from the high to the low setting, but I can't figure out how to remove them for service? I took the cotter pins out but none of the rods or cams seem to want to slide out or into the neighboring shoe.. Chad
  5. chadd

    W6 Hydraulic Tank Mount

    Thanks for the measurements! Chad
  6. chadd

    806 oil cooler leak

    Think these should have what you need. I bookmarked them in case I ever needed them; been lucky so far...
  7. chadd

    W6 Hydraulic Tank Mount

    Thanks for the pictures, that is the first time I've ever seen the actual parts close up. If you have time to take some measurements this weekend, that would be great, otherwise when ever you get around to it is fine with me. Also, let me know what I owe you for your time and effort. The part numbers I have for a W6 are: Item Description Part Number 10 Reservoir Tank Strap 355544R11 17 Reservoir Support and Tool Box 355545R91
  8. chadd

    W6 Hydraulic Tank Mount

    Thanks for the help!
  9. chadd

    W6 Hydraulic Tank Mount

    I found a hydraulic tank, relief valve, and christmas tree hyd. valve assembly for a W6 from a tractor at a junkyard a few months ago. Problem is that someone had already taken the reservoir mount/toolbox (item 17) and the straps (item 10). I was curious if anyone might have these parts on a parts tractor that they might be willing to sell or happened to see them on a junkyard walk-through? I called a couple yards in SE WI that used to have W6's lying around, but I guess they were all scrapped in the last few years. Otherwise, if someone would be willing to give me some dimensions off of theirs, I could fab up something pretty close that would do the job and look mostly original. Thanks!
  10. chadd

    Gasoline ?

    Automotive fuels have two ratings commonly used in North America, RON and MON. RON is the research octane number and MON is the motor octane number. The two acronyms refer to different setups and test procedures used on the Waukesha CFR variable-compression engines to obtain the value. The results of a fuel test are compared with two known values (n-heptane and iso-octane). Gasoline with an octane rating of 87 would have similar knock points as a mixture of 87% iso-octane and 23% n-heptane. MON is a more strenuous test (higher intake air temps, higher engine speed, and more aggressive ignition timing), so the rating is always lower. Av gas uses different settings all together and I think the ratings refer to lean and rich settings, but I can't say for sure. When I ran a CFR in school, I only performed the tests for gasoline, not av-gas. Also, I didn't follow the procedure for RON or MON to the letter, as the lab dealt more with the effect of knock on the engine dyno output and the differences between the actual and theoretical Otto Cycle (mostly the negative work in the actual cycle due to friction and pumping losses during the intake stroke). Waukesha Engines built the CFR pretty stout (the long piston skirt is a big plus); the professor had the engine knocking to the point that it sounded like the piston was hitting the head for 10 minutes at a time and that lab has been performed every year for multiple classes over the past 30-40 years...
  11. chadd

    Dot Head Bolts/Screws

    It states in the "Standard Torque Data for Nuts and Bolts" page used throughout IH service manuals (for example, GSS-1346-G) in the 1950's and 1960's: "**The center marking identifies the bolt manufacturer. The IH monogram is currently used. Some bolts may still have a raised dot which previously identified IH bolts." It states in the General Section of the ISS-1039-1 Engine Manual (A service manual created in 1977 that is the final revision of engine rebuild data all of the 1939 and newer 4 cylinder gasoline engines) that: "Original equipment standard hardware is defined as Type 8, coarse thread bolts and nuts and thru-hardened flat washers (Rockwell "C" 38-45), all phosphate coated and assembled without supplemental lubrication."
  12. chadd

    Ih 674 high/low gearbox

    I took the easy route and ordered my bushings from McMaster-Carr. They have almost every type of bushing imaginable, they give most of the tolerances on their website, and they were pretty reasonable. I'll have to take a look around; I should still have the P/N's I ordered floating around here somewhere. The ones I bought were either steel backed bronze/PTFE or oillite bronze.
  13. chadd

    Ih 674 high/low gearbox

    If my memory is right, there are two bronze bushings in there. The shaft that it rides on is held in place by a nut in the transmission case , so if the shaft has a ton of wear, you would need to take the top off to get it out. On my tractor, pretty much every pin and pin/clevis connection in the linkage was worn out, which meant that the shifter hit the end of the slot in the sheet metal before the gears or detents were entirely engaged. Any load, and the trans would pop out of high range. I drilled them all oversized and pressed bushings in. I also made shim washers to put between the shift arm and latch that are shown in your picture. Shifted just like new after it was done. I also added grease fittings to the lever while I had it apart.
  14. chadd

    Plow Chief bottom and plowing compacted help

    I don't have experience with the Plow Chief bottoms, but in general worn shares make a big difference in the amount of "suck" the plow generates along with the amount of power required to pull it. On the Super Chief bottoms, they have an eccentric bolt that you can rotate to change the pitch of the frog and get a little more life out of worn shares, but it still is not as good as installing new ones. The longer point in the image you attached is similar to the "Deep Suck" share on the Super Chief, which was designed to be more aggressive for use on extremely hard ground. I've seen them in junk yards and in the parts books, but I have never used them on our plows.
  15. chadd

    Tractor related thoughts.

    There are still a few of us younger people that are frugal and willing to sacrifice creature comforts, but it seems we are few and far between. When I bought my Chevy Cobalt brand new in 2008, it had been sitting on the lot for almost a year because no one wanted it. It has no ABS, drum rear brakes, steel rims with plastic covers, no traction control, manual mirrors, no power seats, no keyless entry, manual locks, manual windows, 5 speed manual trans, and cloth seats. It has A/C, but I've only used it 3 times since I got it (house doesn't have A/C, so what's the point in having it on in the car?). The only option listed on the build sheet was wheel locks to prevent the steel rims from being stolen... Got a brand new car for under 12K that averages 34mpg and I haven't missed one of those creature comforts yet. The only work I've had to do to it in the last 10 years is put in brakes, plugs, air filter, and change a few bulbs. Personally, I can't stand tractor cabs, give me open station any day. Doesn't matter if it is baling in the summer or plowing in the winter when it is 20 deg out. On cabs, it is a pain to keep windows clean, the cab supports block your view of rows, tires, and obstacles, you can't use pull ropes unless you leave the rear window open, you can't make manual crank adjustments (thrower speed, rake height, etc.) without stopping and getting off. On fields with low hanging trees, the limbs catch on the cab and on any open windows. If the A/C or fan dies, you are trapped in a tin can and cook in summer unless you open windows/door which defeats the purpose of having the cab... That being said, I know I am in the minority. The average person nowadays would want every convenience possible. Guess I'm a fool then... But, I'm a fool who doesn't have to make monthly payments!