HydroTek

Tractor originally had a York compressor -- 2 cylinder vertical Many have been changed to the round Sanko / Sanden compressor Can you rotate the pulley by hand ? some had a dust cover on the front of the pulley -- would need to remove that to see if the clutch can rotate When a 986 is changed over to 134 , the oil in the compressor has to be drained and filled with Ester oil -- many compressors come with PAG which is not compatible with that tractor Something like this is the replacement -- need to check the line connections Yeah , pictures have been messed up for a few days now -- won't load

The small hard washer keeps the shoulder of the stem from pushing thru the cup you mentioned the cup was in wrong -- so that may by why the washer is broken maybe the other part is sticking the spool ? So , tapered shim goes in the bottom -- then the other shims -- hard washer on the stem -- cup facing down, then the large spring -- and top cap with seal When the spool is pulled out with the unit on the tractor -- the hard washer will usually lay in the bottom of the shim pack -- but I have seen that **** sideways -- and when the spool is put back in , forced -- breaks the washer

Was that small hardened flat washer on the spool intact ? -- just under the cup

1156 or 1157 will make a good test light for that system Not recommended on computer controlled systems tho , unless you know what you are testing

Ground the D+ wire at the alternator -- light should come on

Cab relay still working ? fan, radio, wiper working and all that

Roll the pto unit around on the floor to a different position -- maybe whatever is blocking the spool will move the little pin (400518) may be almost worked out of the hole in the valve -- that could be a difficult problem to address if rolling around will not jostle the blockage -- then time to whack the top of the spool and take the consequences Look in the bottom, you can just barely see the little pin could also hold (back up with a hammer) the top of the spool and whack the bottom to shear the little pin

Thinking that pin #9 is the ground for the "beeper" that 10 volts would explain since thru the beeper circuit Engine RPM the only thing that does not show ? fan and rotor may work if you move the switch position ?

suction tube oring most likely -- mine does that when the oil gels a little low -- I try to keep the oil about 1" above the full mark

I forget which side -- but the switches are wired in series , like old time christmas lights there is a connector on one side that can be jumpered to bypass the switches -- right side I think also a relay that may have worked out of the socket -- fuzzy on the location

Fender switches are locking the cab control out Usually this is from water getting in one of the fender switches Do you have 2 sets of fender switches ? check to see if both operate the hitch Those switches have to make connection when in the out position as well as when pushed

Everything just falls out the bottom remove the square connector and lock nut Maybe you found why the unit has not been working ... something in the spool keeping it from moving lie it should You can remove the top nut and all the stuff inside , maybe will find something there holding the spool Seen that top cup get damaged by putting it in the wrong direction (open part faces down) or the small washer get split

Tractor needs to go out to Herr's Machine , about a 12 hour run from you if your rig is not up to the task -- hire it, may be "cheaper" to let some else have the headaches of hauling in the long run anyways

Secondary path during crank is where I was going I dont remember how many terminals on that ignition switch Def one that is for crank -- but another for gauge check circuit that is also hot during crank you could disconnect the trigger wire from the starter solenoid and see if you can chase the secondary path -- without actually cranking on the engine -- also slave solenoid for the starter back at the engine compartment -- I would dsconnect the trigger wire , that solenoid will over heat if the key is in crank for several minutes

The valve functions properly ?? if you can locate the leak put a little chrome nickel on the leak ?

Can get brand new 12 valves -- but that is not the only option

Yeah , probably in this case Was just mentioning that I did take several apart -- but not warranty units

You want the tractor ?? work the deal and negotiate the price get that thing on the trailer -- it's just a clutch -- not expensive or difficult to put in -- and if the tranny brake , then you lose your bargaining chip

your air hammer has a 5/16" straight punch ??

Heavy spiral roll pins You need a straight punch that is the diameter of those pins -- else they will just swell in the hole FreeAll , PB, or Kroil will help

Here is what I mean about combine schematics -- they spread stuff out -- shows part of the key switch -- then what is that on the left of the diagram -- junction block ? Look on the left of the diagram there are 2 more connections to the tachometer -- Red/black -- from key switch Dk-Gn/W wire -- Lt Green -- and a 5 amp fuse This looks like another path for power -- had to blow the diagram up a lot to see this stuff Check that 5 amp fuse and how the power flows with the key in run and start

Yeah , thinking that "bendix" is not moving forward enough before the solenoid switch engages Seen worse ring gear teeth and still work Pull the starter and measure the distance from the mounting to the ring gear teeth -- compare that to the amount the bendix jumps forward when the solenoid is engaged -- can use jumper cables to energize the starter and take a rough measurement As @snoshoe mentioned often there is adjustment on the travel of the bendix -- also check for wear on the shift fork that the solenoid pushes on to move the bendix Usually the gear will move to almost hit the end of the starter housing when using jumper cables to run the starter -- this can be a quick visual cue

Lay under the tractor and get us a picture of the valve and handle (or remove that cover) Could have 3 bolt or 4 bolt valves on that one -- either way was pins that held the lever on the valve -- and short bolts holding the lever pivot to the front of the valve

Comparatively simple unit to take apart -- matter of fact if the clamp is not used on the shaft , the front will fall off the shaft the rear section with the clutches is bolted together Likely just a shaft seal ring -- some of the replacement rings are soft plastic and push sideways in the groove if there is a burr on the side of the groove or too much clearance , the seal ring will wear thin Seen a few that the bolts were not tight and the gasket would blow in the clutch drum If I had the time when I replaced a unit , would take the thing apart to see what failed -- seal rings were a common failure

Seen a 1086 with 900 and some "original" hours last night looked pretty good , so may be the correct hours