Jump to content

Jmatt18

Members
  • Posts

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Jmatt18's Achievements

Member

Member (2/3)

2

Reputation

  1. I looked searched around the forum but couldn't find what I was looking for. anyways- I recently split our Farmall 656D to replace the starter ring that was worn down. While replacing it I replaced both clutches. (The TA was not working when we bought the tractor) I originally adjusted the clutches by what the book said and had no clutch whatsoever... Part of the spring that holds the clutch pedal back is broke on the back hook and attached to the rear with a wire so I'm thinking that is likely the issue there.. it's not providing the right amount of tension to the clutch pedal to adjust it as the book says. I went ahead and adjusted the clutch to get it to shift smoothly so that I could get the tractor out of the shop. After doing so I adjusted the TA clutch based on what my manual said and the TA is not engaging at all. I have continued to adjust it more with no success of getting the TA to engage. It's staying in DD. I adjusted the TA more by "feel" because the TA/DD lever had ZERO pressure on it when moving it back and forth based on what the manual said. I finally have some pressure on the TA lever but the linkage is no where near what the book says it needs to be (clevis is close to top of the linkage) and the TA is still not engaging. Could replacing the spring that holds the clutch pedal fix my issues since the main clutch likely isn't exactly right causing the adjustments made to the TA not to work? There is less free travel in the clutch pedal than what the book calls for. I'm afraid I may need to crack it open again this fall/winter and make sure there isn't something that I missed if that doesn't work... Appreciate any thoughts and comments! Does anyone have a picture of a properly adjusted clutch and TA that they could share with it in TA versus DD?
  2. Would you consider this too much oil in the drive tube? Guess I oughta replace the O rings while I have it a part too. Thanks for attaching the thread on the 5220
  3. Those are great points. Will give it a look over too. It happened once on my round baler as well when on some rough ground. It's more prone to happen with the disc mower if you pick it up on the ends when turning rather than leaving it down.
  4. The reversible stub shaft that you put in the drive tube.
  5. CIHTECH, If I'm understanding this right you are putting the die grinder into the the snap ring groove and getting it square again then adding to a spot weld on the 1000 rpm shaft to keep the shift collar engaged for the difference in space that was made when cleaning up the snap ring groove? Gearclash, How difficult is it to replace the drive tub? Having this issue when hooked to a disc mower, not so much when hooked to baler. Was getting around this by mowing with our 656 but it's split right now waiting on a part while replacing starter ring and TA ? I just started a new thread about this but this answered my question! Also, should there be any hydraulic oil in the drive tub?
  6. Seems like there might be too much play in the PTO side to side now too.
  7. Bought a 5130 back in the winter and I am having an issue where the PTO is popping out while using it... It happens more frequently on a 3-pt disc mower than any other equipment. I’m wondering if the disc mower is putting too much pressure on the PTO because it doesn’t do it baling hay or when hooked to the tedder. The PTO was rebuilt on this tractor before I bought it. I replaced the snap ring thinking it may of been worn and it has helped but it still popped out when using the disc mower. The PTO feels like it is all the way in but I have to get it lined up right for it to push it all the way in for the 540 (I never use 1000). I’m wondering if the snap ring groove could just be worn or if there could be something internal causing this issue.
  8. Have a 656 diesel that we are replacing all the engine seals on. It also looks like it is leaking around the oil spout (where the dipstick goes). Is there an o-ring around that spout that it could be leaking from? If so how does it come off? I've tried twisting it as if it were screwed in and it didn't budge. I also tried pulling it out and that didn't work either. I didn't give it too much pressure as I didn't want to risk breaking it.
  9. Thanks CIHTECH! I'll take a swing at this in the next day or two and let you know how it goes.
  10. I recently bought a 5130 Maxxum with the synchro shift transmission The shifting on the synchro seems to be loose and can get hung up every once in a while. It looks like I can adjust it underneath the cab but I’m not sure if that would clean up the shifting inside the cab.. it tends to have more problems going from 2nd into 3rd of 4th. Usually shifts just fine coming out of any other gear. When I bring it to the neutral position from 2nd gear it doesn’t always line up to shift out of. I’ve gotta wiggle it most of the time to get over to the 3/4 gears. If wiggling the shifter doesn’t work I am able to take the cover off and use a small pry bar to position it where it needs to be. I’ve attached some photos of it. The 2nd photo is of how it’s not lining up right in order to shift from 2nd into 3 or 4. It’s like something is just a little loose. The service manual I have doesn’t mention anything on how to make adjustments for it. Thanks for any knowledge y’all have on this!
  11. Not sure if there's been a post on this before or not.. Have a 656 that has had a small leak on the front end. It's not small anymore. The front axle looks soaked all the time.Thought it was something with the hydraulic cooler lines at first but it's coming from the front end itself (bolster?) where the power steering takes place. I have the front of the tractor tore apart right now. About to pull the front bolster out. I couldn't take the cylinder out with it on the tractor. Could it just be bad o-rings/seals inside of it? Would I be better off taking the front bolster somewhere like a case ih dealer to be worked on or do it myself? I know it'll be a lot easier on the pocketbook if I do it myself. Not sure how much replacing the insides of it entails though. My shop manual doesn't have anything on this. Don’t have any recent photos but I’ve attached a picture of the tractor with where the leak is. It’s coming from underneath where it pivots Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
  12. Not a recent photo but this is where the leak is. I already have the front bolster off. Will take some pictures tomorrow and share them.
  13. Not sure if there's been a post on this before or not.. Have a 656 that has had a small leak on the front end. It's not small anymore. The front axle looks soaked all the time.Thought it was something with the hydraulic cooler lines at first but it's coming from the front end itself (bolster?) where the power steering takes place. I have the front of the tractor tore apart right now. About to pull the front bolster out. I couldn't take the cylinder out with it on the tractor. Could it just be bad o-rings/seals inside of it? Would I be better off taking the front bolster somewhere like a case ih dealer to be worked on or do it myself? I know it'll be a lot easier on the pocketbook if I do it myself. Not sure how much replacing the insides of it entails though. My shop manual doesn't have anything on this. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
  14. Will for sure give that a good cleaning. It has 7,XXX hours on it. It's had a pretty nice paint job done to it. PTO has been replaced. It broke on the guy while bushhogging so he had the PTO replaced by his dealer. Injection pump already been gone through by a shop as well. It's missing one of the side rearview mirrors. Does anyone know where I can get one? It's the left-hand side if you're sitting on the tractor. Looks like it just screws on. Excited for hay season to roll around and start using it!
  15. Is there something for the alert circuit inside the tractor to make sure is connected or will it all be underneath the cab? I'll have to check on the serial number again. If I remember correctly it's a 1991 model
×
×
  • Create New...