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About MIsparky

  • Birthday 07/31/1980

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  • Gender
  • Location
    SE Michigan
  • Interests
    Farming, hunting, and motorsports.. and sharing them with my kids. I have recently started farming on my own in 2011 and in the process rejuvenating my family's farm.

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  1. The handle won't hold position now. Once I freed up the draft sensitivity lever the position lever began to move too freely to hold in place.
  2. I've been using my 5488 on relatively low draft things like cultivators, rotary hoe and tine weeders for the last few years. This year I started playing with my draft control and seemed to make things worse. Now my position control won't maintain position in anything other than fully raised or all the way down. Could someone explain how the draft control is supposed to work mechanically and if there are adjustments I can make to my position control to make it hold within the range of travel. Thank you.
  3. Thank you guys. I feel kind of sheepish as it ended up being a seized spindle. Got that out and rebuilt and it was good as new.
  4. A few years back I picked up a basket case 1486. The pto didn't work when I got it but the steering was fine. It's probably only got 10 hrs on it since I've owned it. Last year raking hay the steering slowly went away to the current point of only 1-5 degrees of movement. The brakes still work perfectly. I see lots of questions posted simular to this but generally the brakes are affected too. Filter is new today and correct oil level. 3 point still works as well. When dead heading the remotes it builds pressure and labors the motor at idle with no sounds of splines slipping. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Yes its being re-cored right now.. should have it tomorrow
  6. Well thanks to the advise on here I likely found the root of my problems the balancer was toast! The paint dots are my marks... 180 degrees out
  7. thank you for all the responses guys, I had the original fan brace and when I asked the dealer about it he said the updated x one was no longer available. His cnh inventory check found one in Nebraska so that's on its way. Im confused as to why the balancer would have any effect on this because the fan drive is bolted to the water pump pulley not the crankshaft. The motor is a new reman complete unit at around 5500 hrs as reported by the previous owner. It now has 7600 hrs. Im replacing the brace, updated bearing, all new hardware, new flex discs, and water pump. Fyi the bolt that broke was a grade 8 that I put in new 2 years ago when I went through this.
  8. I bought this 5488 in 2012. Since then in 1400 hrs I have twice had problems with the flex plates that couple the fan shaft to the water pump cracking and breaking. Each time I was fortunate and managed to not take out the radiator. The last time I replaced the out board bearing as precautionary. Well disaster struck today 1/2 mile into a 32 mile road trip and I wasn't so lucky with the radiator. This time it actually broke one of the 3/8 bolts off that has the spacer on it. There was no visible damage to the flex plates this time. Anybody have an idea as to why I keep having trouble with this? I'm starting to get really frustrated with it, otherwise its been a good tractor for me.
  9. Since it looks like I'm splitting it what is the likelihood that I damaged the clutch being submerged in oil? I assume its the right time to do the rear main and the trans input shaft seal while I'm there? 6200 hrs on the tractor.
  10. This winter I noticed a hydraulic oil leak coming from my mfwd driveshaft area and assumed it was the driveshaft seal. I replaced that and the leak continued from around the back side of the bearing carrier. I pulled the plug from the clutch housing and got about a gallon and a half of hyd oil out. As I understand it I have 3 leak possibilities. the first two are the front and back orings on the MFWD shaft tube and the trans input shaft seal. My question is on the o-rings on the shaft tube. Is it possible to service these without splitting the tractor? I'm getting conflicting reports, Most say I have to split, a few others say i can access the front oring by pulling the front driveshaft seal, pulling both sets of bearings and then I can access that oring. And for the back oring I've read that I can access it by removing the side hyd oil screen assembly and working through there. Has anyone tried this?
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