bwop2017

I had that happen on a hydro 70 once. No rhyme or reason. Get bolts from a dealer and replace all of them

A new/reman CAPS pump costs about that much and every time they rebuild it, it lasts 1/2 as long. If you're gonna keep the tractor for a long time then the conversion makes sense

Ive seen the rubber of the front crank dampener shear and the center hub will turn but the outer pulley wont or will turn slow

Im glad im not the only one who takes those pillar covers off for clutch jobs. You could've twisted the evaporator or tubes where they run through the cab top corner.

If you have time, use a brush and paint on a good coat of diesel fuel. It should at least soften up. Otherwise, I have an astro brand air gasket scraper.

I was checking BigIron, as usual, and found a 1486 in Panama, IA with some looong frame rails. I don't know what they would be off of. The steering bolster sticks out past the radiator support and the front axle is pushed forward. I seems to be an open channel frame like a 66.86 series, just longer. there's notched on the frame rail towards the rear of the front cover. Any idea what they might be off of? I don't think they're 50/30 series. https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/1981-international-1486-2wd-tractor

Your front crank pulley isn't old is it?. If the rubber ring gets weathered, then the outer ring could run crooked and drift the belt

Its possible that the injector "quill/feed" tubes are loose and not sealing, and dumping pressurized fuel past the injector o-ring which seals the return fuel from the rocker area. I've noticed that over time the quills can loosen up from heat cycles and vibration. Over-torque them. I usually go 2-3 ft. lbs. over spec. I think spec is 35. I modified a line socket so I can do them without having to take anything apart.

Its been a while but there is a feeder clutch and a separator clutch. It's entirely possible that your feeder clutch is warped. We have a local 7120 that is. the feeder sit there and creeps when it run. I thought there was an external adjustment you could make on the feeder clutch brake to try and hold it but if its warped you're SOL. I would maybe check your feeder clutch solenoid for uncommanded power, or we've had a couple get debris in the solenoid and it sticks open and the feeder get stuck on. What's your regulated/control pressure?

They make fittings that dont have a shut off valve like those ones. If it leaks enough to become empty or if your freon "disappears" then I would upgrade them, its one less leak point and no more elbow adaptors.

I know which guides/lips you're talking You cant squeeze this valve cover, it has bridges spot welded inside of it to prevent it from squishing/spreading. I'm not beating the piss out of if, just tapping from the outer rolled lip to see if I can get the lip to fall inside the raised surface of the head. it wont seat just to the rear of injector 6, its too rigid to work with.

Well, I've been having issues with the valve cover on my 766 D-360 leaking. The original valve cover was rusty on the underside, so I had a friend sandblast it. It was rusty enough that it blew a hole in the cover, we tack welded to get by. Then I got ahold of a nice stamped steel one from a truck motor, it has the internal bridges for more rigidity. Lately it's been leaking and the problem is the cover will not tighten down on the gasket, its still loose in one or two spots. I'm thinking its tweaked, I've had it loose a few times and just get it to sit right, I've tried a hammer and wood block to tap the valve cover in, but it just wont seat. So, I've been looking for a cast aluminum cover. They were on the last year DT-360 motors '94 or '95 I think. I've checked a few salvage yards with no luck. There are places that make billet ones for some pretty $$$. I don't know if atlas tractor would make one but I can't get ahold of them. I would like to get a cast one from a truck/bus so it doesn't look out of place. PN-991850C91 If anybody has a lead or knows somebody that has one I'd be interested.

If you hook up a 3 point implement and raise it, does it settle slightly then pick itself back up. If so, chances are the 3 point piston seal is leaking. You'd have to pull the rockshaft housing off. All it is is an o-ring and a teflon backup ring, or you can install a magnum gland style piston seal that will probably never leak. Buts its a bit of a bear to get the piston back in.

5128 is a higher temp and more flexible version of 518. Only use 518 on magnum transmissions. There was a service bulletin and knowledge article about magnums that would leak after being split because people would use 515 instead of 518. Use 518, make sure you go around ALL of the bolt holes/dowels, make sure you have the mating surfaces bone dry and absolutely clean, roll the tractor together, I use the 518 on the bolt threads to act as loctite, then try to get the bolts torqued within 30 minutes of rolling together. I wait till last minute to put oil in so it can harden and set.

did you use 515 or 518? There's no way to seal a transmission mating flange from the outside unless its with a welder or some brazing rod.