Leveling Screw Question (1066)

[Coytee]

Ok, so by now you know I work slow!  Out of town all week and only get to tinker if it's nice weather on weekend, else I have to wait another week.

Got some roll pins to put into the screw.  Looking at it (this is picture from online) there is a 'stop' (??) at the top of this?  It has a locking nut.  Looks like there is at least one detent under it that presumably, the lock nut would go into.

Mine, like this, are both at the very top and seem to just be there.

I'm guessing you can lower this to the lower detent and use it as a stop?  Or, is it to be the lock that holds the entire screw shaft snug where it's supposed to be so it doesn't slide up/down?

What's it for?

Edited to clarify:  I say "top"  I mean at the base of the top with the square bolt sticking out sideways.  Apologies if vague.

 

[HydroTek]

Only thing I can think of that would use the "stop" in the lower hole
would be a wide toolbar so the tractor can tip sideways independent of the toolbar 

Can't remember seeing any that were not at the top position in all my years 

[snoshoe]

Anything semi mounted with at least two trailing wheels should have the stops lowered so machine can follow contours without twisting anything.

[7and8and1456]

From operators manual

 

[Coytee]

Very interesting.  Been looking at this page/diagram.  So, followup.....  if you lower the set collar to the next spot hole DOWN, that will leave that distance between the top of the collar to the bottom of the top assembly.

Is that going to be what they're calling "float" verses having it at the top would be "rigid"??  The 3pt would now have more room to slide up/down?

Thanks for the page.  I've never seen this.  (in process of getting a full manual verses just engine manual)

Guess you can tell I didn't grow up too close to tractors.  

[snoshoe]

I'll try to explain further. Because rockshaft is not tied to cylinder but just pushes against it the whole hitch is free to float unless at the top. Having the stop collars down allows one arm to raise without raising the other.

[Coytee]

Beginning to think this is good for 3pt mower, maybe box blade?

[brahamfireman]

2 hours ago, Coytee said:

Beginning to think this is good for 3pt mower, maybe box blade?

It's good for anything you want to oscillat separate of the tractor.  

Think mounted brush hog with it's own wheels, snow blower, box scraper, wide cultivator with depth wheels.

[Coytee]

Pardon that I have to snicker....  if it's not one thing, it's another.

The screw in the vertical adjuster....  is simply stuck.  I pulled out my 3/4" ratchet.....  roughly 36" cheater bar. I had already snapped the little lever on top so pulled rest off to give me clean access to the 6-sided top.  Got above together, slapped a 1/2" drive, impact socket on it (3/4") and put my 3/4" to 1/2" (non-impact) adapter on the ratchet.

Maybe I still "have my guns".....  or maybe the adapter was defective.....maybe it was a piece of crap (I'm sliding towards this one).  It had only been used handful of times and was still shiney package new.  Brand is/was Carlyle and if I recall, I got it from NAPA.  Not 100% on that but will find out in time.

By now, you must realize that this adapter couldn't handle the massive power I hold in my (noodle) arms.  To be a bit fair, I lashed the lower arm to the drawbar to immobilize it as best I could and balanced myself also on drawbar so I could get a good hard pull.

Sheared the 1/2" tip clean off.

(insert Tim Allen grunts)

Couple months ago when I was fooling with this, my memory says I was able to turn it BUT, I was turning in wrong direction.  I need to compress it a bit to align holes for the roll pin.

Now I'm wondering am I maybe better off just trying to force it off (unscrewing) so I don't have to fool with that pin through the hole or is there maybe a trick I'm unaware of and my bragging about breaking it is sophomoric?

As a general rule, this tractor pulls a flexwing mower.  I've got a speed multiplier AND hydraulic pump attached to the 3-pt so my arms are actually a bit in the way.  During entire time of having this, I've disconnected the arms to the adjusters and raised the arms vertically (tied them off) so the multiplier & pump assembly has free swing without anything getting in way.  Right now, they're in the way!  In fact, I noticed if I were not careful and had a bad luck day, if tractor were in a turn (tighten angle at drawbar bringing multipler & pump closer to lift arms) AND I were to raise the arms, they are going to clash and if it's a really bad day, might hook and damage the multipler/pump.  That ain't gonna happen, they're going vertical before I let that happen when mowing.

So when mowing, I'm going to have to pin them back vertical.  Fine.  In the MEANTIME, when I'm using the boxblade, I need them to work which brings me back to this predicament.  

I've not yet ordered a new 3/4 -> 1/2" adapter.  

Any tricks to unjam the adjuster?  I'm guessing I bottomed out the roll pin and just crammed it into space....  maybe put a bend in it and now, I'm trying to turn it the OPPOSITE way which (if it's bent and grinding) is driving the top INTO the outer part rather than going with the flow.  

I'm about ready to just buy a hydraulic side to mate with the hydraulic top link and call it a day BUT, I'm a stubborn ole cuss......  don't like the idea of a silly pin beating me so I'm persistent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Coytee]

Update since post...

Not really knowing about the Carlyle brand, I just ordered a 3/4" -> 1/2" Snapon adaptor and given the step down is (was) the weak point, I also ordered a 3/4" drive, 3/4" impact socket (also snapon) but.....  ugh....  located in Hawaii.  Hurricane going on right now over there.  we'll see what happens.  At least since it's 3/4" drive, I can't break the adapter.

Now, back to my bowl of Wheaties....  

 

[HydroTek]

There is a roll pin near the bottom of the threads to keep the lift arm from coming apart 

have to thread the rod into the arm enough to get the pin to line up with the hole in the lift arm -- and remove the roll pin 

if the screw has been forced out too far -- the pin may have dug into the threads and is binding 

water and dirt enter at the top of the arm so likely jammed up with that stuff also -- grease fitting is supposed to help keep dirt out 

For the 3pt arms -- just remove them if the pin is not froze in the housing 

[Coytee]

My 1/2" sockets have always been my "big" guns.  On this leveler, I snapped the handle at the top (of the adjuster arm).  I later snapped the 3/4" female to 1/2" male adapter.  (Napa replaced it though their documentation says it's got no warranty so kudos to NAPA) I can't budge the center part.  Decided I didn't want to split a socket using my 3/4" ratchet soooooooooooo ordered off ebay, a 3/4" drive, 3/4" impact socket.  (snapon).  arrived today.  Of course, the dufas advertises it as 3/4 (by 3/4) but it's actually a 19mm.  Oversight or sly move?  Don't know.  We'll see what he says to my inquiry.  I realize it should fit essentially identical so I don't like the bait & switch but not very riled up about it.

I may now get a bona-fide 3/4" breaker bar.  I already have a 3' cheater bar (that did nothing).  Which brings me to my question....  I can go online and look for one.  I can also walk into Lowes & grab a Craftsman 3/4" or Lowes and grab a Teckton brand.  Looks like they're both 40" and then I have my cheater to boot.

Any preferences to brand?  Does it matter at this size?  Should I go online, spend probably, a bit more and get a snapon/Mac/other??

I don't want to 'burn' money but I don't really care about cost differences, I just don't want it to snap on me (no pun intended).

I feel like this is one of those soap opera shows from the 70's where it goes on, and on, and on and on....  

To give an idea why, I'll take yesterday.

I get up at 4:00 eastern.  Get dogs out, ready for work.  I leave at 5:30 eastern so I can arrive at my day's work location at 7:00 CENTRAL.  Go to two locations, during day, find out a THIRD location wants me to go there.....  at 5:30 CENTRAL, I go by next location and they left an hour earlier.  Fine.  As it happens, I have a 40 minute drive to meet another person in Jamestown.  Get there, spend the hour.  Now it's getting dark approaching 7:00 CENTRAL and head for home.  I had an egg biscuit at 5:30 a.m. (eastern) and up to now, had about three cookies and couple swigs of a coke.  I get a free meal from work because I drove over 100 miles in one direction so by the time I get to my town, it's 10:30 eastern.  More interested in sleep since I'm exhausted BUT, can't let that meal go to waste, so go to pizza joint and bring pizza home.  I get home at 11:00 last night.

I repeat this same trip on Monday.

So I'm not terribly interested in busting my tail on a day off (today) or on a weekend and, have the luxury where I CAN wait.  Then of course, it might rain or more typically, the wife tries to drag me around with her to various estate sales (she loves them, I don't care for them at all) BUT, she needs someone to help hoist the (enter item that needs two or three people to carry) and of course, she picks me.

Ok, I'm blathering on.  My apologies.

I'm trying to sneak into this process, finding a quality 3/4" breaker that hopefully, won't break.

 

 

 

[Coytee]

More blather....

posted above, go to ebay to start looking around and what do I see?  I see a picture of a torque multiplier.

Kicking self.

I already have one of those!!!  guess I know my next attempt!

 

 

[brahamfireman]

I haven't read entire thread but if you're not using heat you're just wasting time.......

Stuck 3 point arms never come loose without heat. 

[Coytee]

1 hour ago, brahamfireman said:

Stuck 3 point arms never come loose without heat. 

Not realizing there was a roll pin in there, I think I jammed the roll pin in addition to any junk that might be in there (I DID have the screw turning couple years ago so I know it "did" work)  Not sure heat would work for that?? (other than the fire my wife may breath at me, I don't have much heat other than a MAP torch)

I'm going to burn in heII for the wife comment!  

[stronger800]

I do enjoy reading the things you’re willing to admit and share. 
I hope you get it moving. 

[HydroTek]

Put some good pressure on the breaker bar and then hammer on the side of the threaded housing -- vibration may let the rust/junk loose 

The top of the shaft will just twist (off) if you have a decent breaker bar -- so no need to put that much pressure on it 

I have one of the old IH 3/4" socket sets -- Williams made it if I remember right 
the ratchet in that set would easily break the top off that thread rod 
-- the 'red pipe' that came with the 1066 tractors will slip over the handle , and has had my full weight on it many times 
-- have a breaker bar from 'Snappy also 

most any other will disappoint 

[stronger800]

I’ve broken my 1/2 snappy one big not a 3/4

[Coytee]

14 hours ago, stronger800 said:

I do enjoy reading the things you’re willing to admit and share. 
I hope you get it moving. 

I'm pretty unpretentious so don't mind blathering (figure someone can ignore if they wish).  Add to that, my little fingers can fly on a keyboard.  Though I don't know what my rate is today, when I took a typing class in 8th grade, I was the fastest male in the class and, the second fastest person in the class (damn that Allison Medford!!)  I was hitting 83 words/minute.  Years prior to that, I had taken piano lessons (sucked at it) but the typing teacher said there is a distinct difference between people that might have had piano lessons verses none....  (eye/hand coordination maybe better developed?)

So add my blatherings with ability to whip something out without really thinking about it, and blamo, you have another (typically useless) book to read.  I appreciate the kind words.

 

@hydrotek :  You bring up something that has crossed my mind.  Several years ago, kingpin on backhoe needed new bearings BUT, the kingpin was also S.T.U.C.K.  We tried everything.  Finally, guy who helped me (has full fabricating shop down road and an engineer)...  fabricated a cradle to place over kingpin but to then fit a 30 ton bottle jack under it.  We had intense pressure on this pin and nothing was happening.  Then (enter your comment), I had an idea.  Grabbed my sledge, hit the front axle next to the pin.  The pin broke loose and literally, the entire backhoe shook (16,000 pound machine).  Go look at the kingpin and it moved MAYBE 1/4".  Really was a 'wow' moment to see how much pressure it had to move the entire machine so violently yet, only moved 1/4".  Once it moved though, I knew we had it....  

When I had my torque multplier on there, the handle (stationary one that pressure pushes on) was against the tire.  Well, tire is spongy so that absorbed some of the pressure BUT, it then crossed my mind that I can re-fit the bar so it hits frame (yep), now on my next attempt, maybe take out some ratchet straps so I can pull and HOLD the ratchet/breaker bar so all is under pressure, and then give the tube a couple whacks.

What I can't decide is, several of the threads are exposed on top.  If I can force the outer part OFF and break or bend the snot out of the roll pin, I will then have an easier job (so I think) on taking the pin out as I'll have unfettered access to it.  If I shorten things and pull the pin back towards middle of cylinder, now I have the tiny hole through which to perform any new magic.  My options narrow a bit (or so I think).  Since I can't see in there, I don't know just how close, how many turns it might have to go before it releases.

As stated prior, I'm a persistent old cuss....  don't want a stupid thing like this to "win"....  so figure that I'll get it out one way or another.  That said, I also have the option of just taking the whole thing off and replace it with a replacement OR, a hydraulic one (since I've got a hydraulic toplink now).  I'll be using this with a boxblade so I'm still open to going hydraulic to make the boxblade more efficient.

Alas.... before I do anything, I need to go out and replace the belt on my mower deck.

 

Circle back to fast fingers....  one downside of that is they just zip across the keyboard, my thoughts coming to the screen as quickly as they can be typed.  I don't go back and proof-read (I tend to notice a spelling mistake and fix it on the fly).  So I sometimes miss something.  Never said I was accurate, just fast!

 

[HydroTek]

You would not want to see my raw text -- with my dyslexia there is no making sense at times -- that's why I break up my sentences , sometimes they don't make sense to even me 

Vibration can go a long way when something is stuck , as in your example . Since the other side will adjust , run it out as far as it will go and measure the length . This will give an estimate of the roll pin location in relation to the threads

I really think you would be best served to turn the screw inward -- since outward takes the risk of lathing out the threads and destroying the lift arm housing

Son has a hydraulic top link on his small tractor which is pretty handy to set how much the box cuts-- not much need for the side link unless you are cutting ditches 

 

[Coytee]

Cutting ditches or, I just got back from trying to do a quick leveling of my gravel driveway.  I'm on a hill so of course, all the water from wayyy above, comes down to my side yard, straight down the gravel driveway and blows it out.  I have to drag it up every now & then.  I just attempted to do it for the second time with the boxblade behind the 1066.  (usually use my wife's cousin (next door) much smaller Deere)  In fact, I guess the boxblade is a CAT I and it's been mounted to the CAT III so it looks a bit like Arnold Schwartzenegger in his prime, working out with 10 pound weights.... 

I think I'm liking the hydraulic side even more.  It's sooooooooooooo finicky (maybe it's ME that's finicky?) but a royal pain to adjust sides.  My little noodle arms don't have the strength to turn the good adjuster (trying to match the one that's stuck).  This is with the box raised so I can reach it however, all the weight is on it.

So I lower the boxblade to the ground to take pressure off then I can't even reach it from the seat.  Drop to ground, get off machine, walk around twirl adjuster, look at height....adjust.

It will be SOOOOOOOOOOO much easier to adjust on the fly if I get a hydraulic.  I can keep my working unit, I suppose adjust it to the middle?  (no clue though I realize you can always move it to get extra length or shorten it up)

Just doing my driveway once, has me really liking the idea of the hydraulic side.  Keep in mind, I pulled a bunch of trees out from behind house and hope to go back there and level things up.  If the gymnastics I had to go through to simply adjust it for my essentially flat but on a hill driveway, the cratered clearing in the back (cratered where I also removed the stumps) is going to be a royal pain.

Anyone know the compressed & extended working limits of the side link?

 

 

[HydroTek]

When I lived at the "river farm" had almost 6 tenths long drive with two long slopes in it -- I feel fr you about grading after each rain

Put in three angled terraces on the one hill and two on the other -- speed bumps - lol
those helped a lot and kept visitors speed down , so the gravel stayed on the road better 

Done all that with a 990 Davy Brown and a five foot grader blade 
old Deere blade had angle and tilt -- and worn in every joint so followed the contours 

Hydraulic side tilt would have been handy -- not trying to talk you out of it -- but it is not all that you think it is either 
Getting back to "level" is difficult , tho maybe that is not as important as following the ground 

Son has a Massey - 40hp 4x4 that put hydraulic top link on -- that has been great for the box blade 
We also made a "road leveler" using some large angle iron and part of a screen out of a rock crusher 

The angles (3) are different directions and lengths - patterned after a factory unit
the screen drags on chains behind -- that screen is about 200 pounds 
Whole thing lifts on the 3pt  and does a great job making the drive look like new 

Where I and my Son live the drives are much shorter and leveler than the river farm 
-- seen that the people that own the river farm have black topped the drive -- bet that cost a pretty penny 

50 minutes ago, Coytee said:

Anyone know the compressed & extended working limits of the side link?

you have the one that adjusts -- take measurements 

[acem]

Depending on how much money you have and you value your time, you could just money whip it.

Here are some new aftermarket parts for consideration.  Sorry, no pics.

https://www.ihpartsandequipment.com/tractor-parts/hitches/398382r1-ih-tractor-hitch-lift-link-hanger-yoke-en.html

https://www.abilenemachine.com/leveling-screw-housing-category-3-am398384r1?srsltid=AfmBOor8uW4EqXyucgnPMI2xl3Tq7M7-L345gpfgdsP2Y1GsZdURoXKq

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/leveling-screw-international-1066-1206-1256-1456-1466-1468-398378r1.html

https://www.reliableaftermarketparts.com/products/523861r2-crank-leveling-screw-handle-fits-case-ih-tractor-300-330-340-400-544?currency=USD&country=US&variant=42550792257619&stkn=74b0779be3fd&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17338975573&gclid=CjwKCAjwkaXUBhASEiwAZI3ds6pFp7Ui3yHeJAYkhhVIlVJCmAf11q6NF-80uIskdP6ojuLsvXCqlBoChYwQAvD_BwE

[soupkid]

Did you Try an impact ?