Coytee

Someone has one of these on marketplace near me. Asking $150 (not huge discount from new maybe $50/80 off what I'm finding). Says only used once (was that because it was a POS?) Rare, but I've had use for a slide hammer so thought this was interesting. https://www.astrotools.com/product/stubby-air-slide-hammer/ Worth looking into or is it trash? (hate to sound harsh, just being clear)

Cutting ditches or, I just got back from trying to do a quick leveling of my gravel driveway. I'm on a hill so of course, all the water from wayyy above, comes down to my side yard, straight down the gravel driveway and blows it out. I have to drag it up every now & then. I just attempted to do it for the second time with the boxblade behind the 1066. (usually use my wife's cousin (next door) much smaller Deere) In fact, I guess the boxblade is a CAT I and it's been mounted to the CAT III so it looks a bit like Arnold Schwartzenegger in his prime, working out with 10 pound weights.... I think I'm liking the hydraulic side even more. It's sooooooooooooo finicky (maybe it's ME that's finicky?) but a royal pain to adjust sides. My little noodle arms don't have the strength to turn the good adjuster (trying to match the one that's stuck). This is with the box raised so I can reach it however, all the weight is on it. So I lower the boxblade to the ground to take pressure off then I can't even reach it from the seat. Drop to ground, get off machine, walk around twirl adjuster, look at height....adjust. It will be SOOOOOOOOOOO much easier to adjust on the fly if I get a hydraulic. I can keep my working unit, I suppose adjust it to the middle? (no clue though I realize you can always move it to get extra length or shorten it up) Just doing my driveway once, has me really liking the idea of the hydraulic side. Keep in mind, I pulled a bunch of trees out from behind house and hope to go back there and level things up. If the gymnastics I had to go through to simply adjust it for my essentially flat but on a hill driveway, the cratered clearing in the back (cratered where I also removed the stumps) is going to be a royal pain. Anyone know the compressed & extended working limits of the side link?

I'm pretty unpretentious so don't mind blathering (figure someone can ignore if they wish). Add to that, my little fingers can fly on a keyboard. Though I don't know what my rate is today, when I took a typing class in 8th grade, I was the fastest male in the class and, the second fastest person in the class (damn that Allison Medford!!) I was hitting 83 words/minute. Years prior to that, I had taken piano lessons (sucked at it) but the typing teacher said there is a distinct difference between people that might have had piano lessons verses none.... (eye/hand coordination maybe better developed?) So add my blatherings with ability to whip something out without really thinking about it, and blamo, you have another (typically useless) book to read. I appreciate the kind words. @hydrotek : You bring up something that has crossed my mind. Several years ago, kingpin on backhoe needed new bearings BUT, the kingpin was also S.T.U.C.K. We tried everything. Finally, guy who helped me (has full fabricating shop down road and an engineer)... fabricated a cradle to place over kingpin but to then fit a 30 ton bottle jack under it. We had intense pressure on this pin and nothing was happening. Then (enter your comment), I had an idea. Grabbed my sledge, hit the front axle next to the pin. The pin broke loose and literally, the entire backhoe shook (16,000 pound machine). Go look at the kingpin and it moved MAYBE 1/4". Really was a 'wow' moment to see how much pressure it had to move the entire machine so violently yet, only moved 1/4". Once it moved though, I knew we had it.... When I had my torque multplier on there, the handle (stationary one that pressure pushes on) was against the tire. Well, tire is spongy so that absorbed some of the pressure BUT, it then crossed my mind that I can re-fit the bar so it hits frame (yep), now on my next attempt, maybe take out some ratchet straps so I can pull and HOLD the ratchet/breaker bar so all is under pressure, and then give the tube a couple whacks. What I can't decide is, several of the threads are exposed on top. If I can force the outer part OFF and break or bend the snot out of the roll pin, I will then have an easier job (so I think) on taking the pin out as I'll have unfettered access to it. If I shorten things and pull the pin back towards middle of cylinder, now I have the tiny hole through which to perform any new magic. My options narrow a bit (or so I think). Since I can't see in there, I don't know just how close, how many turns it might have to go before it releases. As stated prior, I'm a persistent old cuss.... don't want a stupid thing like this to "win".... so figure that I'll get it out one way or another. That said, I also have the option of just taking the whole thing off and replace it with a replacement OR, a hydraulic one (since I've got a hydraulic toplink now). I'll be using this with a boxblade so I'm still open to going hydraulic to make the boxblade more efficient. Alas.... before I do anything, I need to go out and replace the belt on my mower deck. Circle back to fast fingers.... one downside of that is they just zip across the keyboard, my thoughts coming to the screen as quickly as they can be typed. I don't go back and proof-read (I tend to notice a spelling mistake and fix it on the fly). So I sometimes miss something. Never said I was accurate, just fast!

Not realizing there was a roll pin in there, I think I jammed the roll pin in addition to any junk that might be in there (I DID have the screw turning couple years ago so I know it "did" work) Not sure heat would work for that?? (other than the fire my wife may breath at me, I don't have much heat other than a MAP torch) I'm going to burn in heII for the wife comment!

More blather.... posted above, go to ebay to start looking around and what do I see? I see a picture of a torque multiplier. Kicking self. I already have one of those!!! guess I know my next attempt!

My 1/2" sockets have always been my "big" guns. On this leveler, I snapped the handle at the top (of the adjuster arm). I later snapped the 3/4" female to 1/2" male adapter. (Napa replaced it though their documentation says it's got no warranty so kudos to NAPA) I can't budge the center part. Decided I didn't want to split a socket using my 3/4" ratchet soooooooooooo ordered off ebay, a 3/4" drive, 3/4" impact socket. (snapon). arrived today. Of course, the dufas advertises it as 3/4 (by 3/4) but it's actually a 19mm. Oversight or sly move? Don't know. We'll see what he says to my inquiry. I realize it should fit essentially identical so I don't like the bait & switch but not very riled up about it. I may now get a bona-fide 3/4" breaker bar. I already have a 3' cheater bar (that did nothing). Which brings me to my question.... I can go online and look for one. I can also walk into Lowes & grab a Craftsman 3/4" or Lowes and grab a Teckton brand. Looks like they're both 40" and then I have my cheater to boot. Any preferences to brand? Does it matter at this size? Should I go online, spend probably, a bit more and get a snapon/Mac/other?? I don't want to 'burn' money but I don't really care about cost differences, I just don't want it to snap on me (no pun intended). I feel like this is one of those soap opera shows from the 70's where it goes on, and on, and on and on.... To give an idea why, I'll take yesterday. I get up at 4:00 eastern. Get dogs out, ready for work. I leave at 5:30 eastern so I can arrive at my day's work location at 7:00 CENTRAL. Go to two locations, during day, find out a THIRD location wants me to go there..... at 5:30 CENTRAL, I go by next location and they left an hour earlier. Fine. As it happens, I have a 40 minute drive to meet another person in Jamestown. Get there, spend the hour. Now it's getting dark approaching 7:00 CENTRAL and head for home. I had an egg biscuit at 5:30 a.m. (eastern) and up to now, had about three cookies and couple swigs of a coke. I get a free meal from work because I drove over 100 miles in one direction so by the time I get to my town, it's 10:30 eastern. More interested in sleep since I'm exhausted BUT, can't let that meal go to waste, so go to pizza joint and bring pizza home. I get home at 11:00 last night. I repeat this same trip on Monday. So I'm not terribly interested in busting my tail on a day off (today) or on a weekend and, have the luxury where I CAN wait. Then of course, it might rain or more typically, the wife tries to drag me around with her to various estate sales (she loves them, I don't care for them at all) BUT, she needs someone to help hoist the (enter item that needs two or three people to carry) and of course, she picks me. Ok, I'm blathering on. My apologies. I'm trying to sneak into this process, finding a quality 3/4" breaker that hopefully, won't break.

Update since post... Not really knowing about the Carlyle brand, I just ordered a 3/4" -> 1/2" Snapon adaptor and given the step down is (was) the weak point, I also ordered a 3/4" drive, 3/4" impact socket (also snapon) but..... ugh.... located in Hawaii. Hurricane going on right now over there. we'll see what happens. At least since it's 3/4" drive, I can't break the adapter. Now, back to my bowl of Wheaties....

Pardon that I have to snicker.... if it's not one thing, it's another. The screw in the vertical adjuster.... is simply stuck. I pulled out my 3/4" ratchet..... roughly 36" cheater bar. I had already snapped the little lever on top so pulled rest off to give me clean access to the 6-sided top. Got above together, slapped a 1/2" drive, impact socket on it (3/4") and put my 3/4" to 1/2" (non-impact) adapter on the ratchet. Maybe I still "have my guns"..... or maybe the adapter was defective.....maybe it was a piece of crap (I'm sliding towards this one). It had only been used handful of times and was still shiney package new. Brand is/was Carlyle and if I recall, I got it from NAPA. Not 100% on that but will find out in time. By now, you must realize that this adapter couldn't handle the massive power I hold in my (noodle) arms. To be a bit fair, I lashed the lower arm to the drawbar to immobilize it as best I could and balanced myself also on drawbar so I could get a good hard pull. Sheared the 1/2" tip clean off. (insert Tim Allen grunts) Couple months ago when I was fooling with this, my memory says I was able to turn it BUT, I was turning in wrong direction. I need to compress it a bit to align holes for the roll pin. Now I'm wondering am I maybe better off just trying to force it off (unscrewing) so I don't have to fool with that pin through the hole or is there maybe a trick I'm unaware of and my bragging about breaking it is sophomoric? As a general rule, this tractor pulls a flexwing mower. I've got a speed multiplier AND hydraulic pump attached to the 3-pt so my arms are actually a bit in the way. During entire time of having this, I've disconnected the arms to the adjusters and raised the arms vertically (tied them off) so the multiplier & pump assembly has free swing without anything getting in way. Right now, they're in the way! In fact, I noticed if I were not careful and had a bad luck day, if tractor were in a turn (tighten angle at drawbar bringing multipler & pump closer to lift arms) AND I were to raise the arms, they are going to clash and if it's a really bad day, might hook and damage the multipler/pump. That ain't gonna happen, they're going vertical before I let that happen when mowing. So when mowing, I'm going to have to pin them back vertical. Fine. In the MEANTIME, when I'm using the boxblade, I need them to work which brings me back to this predicament. I've not yet ordered a new 3/4 -> 1/2" adapter. Any tricks to unjam the adjuster? I'm guessing I bottomed out the roll pin and just crammed it into space.... maybe put a bend in it and now, I'm trying to turn it the OPPOSITE way which (if it's bent and grinding) is driving the top INTO the outer part rather than going with the flow. I'm about ready to just buy a hydraulic side to mate with the hydraulic top link and call it a day BUT, I'm a stubborn ole cuss...... don't like the idea of a silly pin beating me so I'm persistent.

Seems he does know this..... and warned me.....and now I know it too (as I still managed to attempt it backwards!)

Guessing.... but I cut around 100 acres. Don't cut it for hay, just mow it. Wanted a 15'. Ended up getting my 1066 simply because I found it and it was large enough (needed something to STOP the mower coming down some of the hills) Stumbled onto a 'Terrain King' (now owned by Alamo as the Falcon https://www.alamo-industrial.com/falcon-15/ Originally bought by McGhee Tyson airport, ended up with a local farmer. I liked the idea of no rotating shafts and ability to raise wing higher to cut an embankment (turns out that's not as easy as I had presumed) Mine was made in the late 80's I think. Still does a nice job. I've rebuilt all the hydraulic motors and the pump. A bit of a downside.... you need to have a bracket mounted to your tractor and the speed increaser (more in a moment on this) mounts to the bracket then the hydraulic pump mounts to the increaser. They make one speed increaser, takes the 540 PTO and multiplies it by 4 to get it to around 2160 to power the pump. They ALSO make a different version of same increaser that hangs off your 1000 PTO to get (ostensibly) to the same speed for the pump. I've had this for 7-8 years (??) now. Interestingly, there was someone in (Greenville I think?) that had one listed for sale on facebook. I almost bought it just so I could have a bit newer version of what I have (it was still old) AND have mine for parts if need be. It's loud but everything is loud. Thing is, I don't think it's AS loud as having four shafts spinning at speed so compared to a shaft unit, I think it's likely going to be more quiet (I've never operated a shafted 15' version so don't know) I use my 1066 as essentially, a dedicated mower with this behind it. I would think it would take 2-3 times as long to mount verses a PTO version since with the PTO you hook up to drawbar, mate hoses & pto and you're done. This isn't dissimilar but I've got four bolts to remove to separate pump from speed increaser. If I need speed increaser off, that is ANOTHER four bolts to loosen then pull/tug off shaft. Yellow part is speed increaser. It attaches to a red bracket that a local friend made for me and the pump is attached to the increaser. Some pictures of the yard.

Beginning to think this is good for 3pt mower, maybe box blade?

Very interesting. Been looking at this page/diagram. So, followup..... if you lower the set collar to the next spot hole DOWN, that will leave that distance between the top of the collar to the bottom of the top assembly. Is that going to be what they're calling "float" verses having it at the top would be "rigid"?? The 3pt would now have more room to slide up/down? Thanks for the page. I've never seen this. (in process of getting a full manual verses just engine manual) Guess you can tell I didn't grow up too close to tractors.

Ok, so by now you know I work slow! Out of town all week and only get to tinker if it's nice weather on weekend, else I have to wait another week. Got some roll pins to put into the screw. Looking at it (this is picture from online) there is a 'stop' (??) at the top of this? It has a locking nut. Looks like there is at least one detent under it that presumably, the lock nut would go into. Mine, like this, are both at the very top and seem to just be there. I'm guessing you can lower this to the lower detent and use it as a stop? Or, is it to be the lock that holds the entire screw shaft snug where it's supposed to be so it doesn't slide up/down? What's it for? Edited to clarify: I say "top" I mean at the base of the top with the square bolt sticking out sideways. Apologies if vague.

(I created this on evidently, a different browser that I don't use often, if it's duplicated, my apologies and you can delete if that's the case) I have looked and dont see it so maybe it didn't duplicate. I have what appears to be an engine service manual for my 1066. Thought I might see if a more general, chassis service manual exists. Do some looking and find below. I don't have the serial number handy, if that is a factor but how does one decide which service manual or repair shop or full service repair maintenance manual is the right one?? Or, are all these simply the same thing (other than Tractor Service verses Tractor Repair Shop manuals) since they seem to be same cost? Farmall Series | 1066 Service Repair Workshop Manuals International Harvester 1066 Tractor Service Repair Manual $31.99 International Harvester Farmall IH 1066 Tractor Repair Shop Maintenance Manual -$46.99 IH International Harvester 1066 Repair Servce Manual $31.99 International Harvester 1066 Tractor Full Service Repair $31.99 International Harvester 1066 Tractor Repair Service Manual $31.99 IH International Harvester 1066 Workshop Service Manual $31.99 International Harvester 1066 Tractor Workshop Service Manual $31.99 International Harvester 1066 Tractor Workshop Service Repair $31.99

This is going to sound stupid.... (but it's the truth). Been involved with helping folks with their retirements for 38 years. Went to a trade school, had a guy come in and I recognized him. I'm thinking what on earth can I help him with today, I've already seen him five times... (over past 3'ish years) well, I guess that showed on my face. To be honest, I don't care and it doesn't matter (I'm not commissioned) I get paid the same so for me it's another meeting.... Interestingly, he stops and says "You might wonder why I keep visiting with you when you're on campus" He went on to say "every time I sit with you, I learn something.....so if you don't mind, I'd love to keep meeting with you when you come to collect as many nuggets from you that I can" I thought that was a nice thing to say and to be a bit honest, it's true, especially to someone who's maybe in mid 20's, low 30's who's not had much experience in investments. I've tried to explain to folks every now & then that I realize (in my world) I've got all kinds of nuggets and if I could have my way, I'd copy all of them into each person I meet with to help speed up their learning curve. Well.....folks...... your wives might say you're full of something, but I say you're full of nuggets and it's valuable to try to pick up as many of them as I (anyone) can. It sounds somewhat stupid, but really, a heart felt THANK YOU, for you just being you and willing to help others. It really is greatly appreciated. As for the spray on graphite..... it's not in my cabinet so it's going on my list!!

I got it in there. The bushing that holds the pin is pretty snug but the cylinder itself has free range of movement and doesn't feel bound up at all. It's crossed my mind to grind it down a bit but being stubborn....

Also discovered the port extender on the lifting arm, doesn't extend. I fought and got the right side to extend but the left one needs more attention. That would have made mounting the box a bit easier yesterday. Might I presume if I remove those two "springs" (the lower left corner items in your picture) .... if those get removed, I'll have dug deep enough to pull the arm out and then can clean it? When (this is low priority) I get this apart and cleaned up, does it go back in 'clean' or would a coat of grease go onto it? Kind of seems to me grease would end up attracting and sticking to dirt. Thanks for explaining the mark on the shaft. I've not even noticed it existing.

Forgot to mention.... the handle was in the locked position. When it snapped, the entire unit rotated. The upper/lower units are still stuck, relative to each other.

After I broke it, I (later on) ended up turning the starboard unit to even them up. I had to lengthen and lengthen.... I finally wondered if indeed, the port one was at the full extension verses compressed. Too late now. (didn't think of welding as I don't have welder so don't think about that as part of any answers) Now I go to mount the hydraulic cylinder.... it doesn't fit. I went to mount it in lower hole. caked with dirt (the pin wouldn't go in either so had to clean out the caked on dust). Then, went to mount the cylinder.... although I finally got it on, it seems as though the cylinder is just a SMUDGGGGGGGGGGGGGE too large. I had to wiggle and wiggle, had to beat the pin to use it as my centering device. It finally went on but I've got to think if it was 1-2 MM's more narrow, it would have been easy. Mount up the hydraulic cylinder. Go to extend/retract it.... both of the hoses at the ball valve have a drip. I didn't check them for tight. Got things working. Went out to mount the box blade. Don't you know that with all the bushing/sleeves I'd gone through, I had exactly what I needed! Chalk a win for that. Spent 45 minutes to get the box blade lined up well enough and got top link mounted and one side. Could not get it alighed for the other side until I removed one of the two bushing to give the pin a wider target. Bottom line, I think I'm going to L.O.V.E. this hydraulic toplink. Never had one AND, on this tractor, never had to use the 3-point. As I was driving the box blade back from the woods towards the house, I was playing around.... found myself grabbing the remotes (tilting) when I wanted to raise it and vice versa. Stupid stuff but that muscle memory has NO memory so once I build, it will be fine. The box blade (my opinion) is wayyyyy too small but, it will help do what I want and if I can hobble with it while I debate on getting a larger/wider one. This essentially goes to just past the inside of the tires so better than nothing but will be leaving tracks. Oh, regarding roll pins..... the starboard unit was completely apart. It was caked with dirt. I wire brushed it but didn't notice any holes in it (for the roll pin) nor, did I notice any pin BUT, I also didn't know to look. I'll be taking it back apart to clean it up better and will look then. I had tried to rotate this (the now broken one) both clockwise and counter clockwise and it was absolutely stuck in both directions. I was convinced it was compressed so really spent the time and effort to unscrew it but, if it was indeed at max length then I would have been fighting the roll pins. I had tried banging on the side but, was trying to loosen it. I didn't try it while trying the other direction. When I lengthened the starboard unit it had roughly three threads poking out the top. That's when I started wondering if the stuck unit was already long and I was fighting the pin. Meh.... just more to tackle. I'll get it done one way or another. Given how nice the hydraulic top link is, I'm already debating on adding a hydraulic side.

I'm at a crossroads, so a bit of an update (just to talk about what's going on) I tried to push from behind today and viola, the unit moved pretty easily! Nice to know you can do that. I said above that my twisted sense of humor gets a kick sometimes out of "what else can go wrong"...... well.... here's another thing! I bought too large of pin the other day to work with my boxblade, so this morning, went back to store to get smaller. Turns out it uses 3/4" not 7/8". Fine. Just went outside to try to loosen the adjustor part of the vertical tube. Had my stilson on it (it's around 24") and cranking away, all the sudden it breaks FREE! Gimme an A'men.... oh, wait.....I see something fly to the side and I hear a clink on the ground. I give you the crank that you use to adjust the height. If this adjuster was in the middle or full length, I might leave it be and just use the other side for tilting my box blade. This is totally compressed so it's as high as it can be. I suppose I can try it on the box to see what it says, but otherwise, for the problems of pulling it off, getting it out somewhere, having them brutalize it, then replacing the crank.... I might just buy a new one. Don't know yet, this just happened so haven't had time to focus on an approach. Meanwhile, back at the ranch, the tube appears to be just as locked now as before. No gains.

I appreciate the help, I got them. I didn't realize (until now) that you can evidently push from the rear. They extended just a little, the coupler wasn't going in. The bearings were fully extended. I had a vague recollection that this happened the first time I ever put couplers in there. I thought they extended further than evidently they do. I grabbed the lip of the stuck part and was able to pull it out just a fraction of an inch BUT, I was able to spray it down and roll my fingers over the bearings and that loosened them up a bit and all the sudden they disappeared! (pulled out of the way). So I've got all four couplers in there now. Went to the next step..... week or two ago, took the rotating cylinder off the starboard side (vertical adjustor for 3-point) and at least got the muck off. I still need to get caps & just finish it BUT today was let's take off port side. That thing is STUCK! I can't find my 4' cheater bar but I had my stilson wrench on it. It pulled almost horizontal as there's nothing holding it down. Got a strap to take around axle and at least hold the arm as close to vertical as I can while now turning. I'm not 23 (nor 33, 43, 53, 63) any more but giving it all I could, it won't budge. Sprayed it all day to let it soak. Tried moving it both directions however it's nearly (if not all the way) compressed. So I know I've got room to unscrew it. You know, all this is just so I can put an undersized box blade (5' if I recall) in the back, won't even cover the tracks.... to try to smooth out the woods behind the house a bit. My twisted sense of humor gets a chuckle that it's one thing followed by another, by another.... I'll get it there though. If there's one thing I am (other than wife letting me know I'm a jackazz), is I'm a persistent little cuss!!! Probably be easier, faster, not sure about less expensive.....to just rent a bulldozer and smooth it out. I did notice a couple hour drive away, someone had a land rake/leveler (not sure what it's called) That caught my eye as it would do this, it's pulled like my mower and, could be used to better groom the gravel driveway which gets blown up every now & then with bad rains. The 3-point assembly simply gets in the way with the speed increaser and hydraulic pump that my mower needs (and removing mower is a bit of a production as I have to bring the backhoe in to chain the front of mower to hoist it to pull the pin and pull tractor away. Putting it back together is even more of a dance, especially doing it single handedly. I probably have to jump into / out of the backhoe 12-15 times to fine tune the alighnment and of course, something then sags by 1/4 inch so have to try again.

I was going to ask....I then thought "you have an electronic version of the manual, don't be an azz, go look it up, this isn't rocket science!!" So here I am with tail tucked!! My 1066 came to me with packed and very dirty rear remotes. Took me a while of spraying them out to get the gunk out so I could put the two hoses there for the raise/lower of the wings and mower deck. Never used the lower remotes. Now that I'm trying to attach this hydraulic toplink, I now need the lower. Spray some WD40 on it to start soaking in (it's stunningly filthy) Finally, take machine up to garage and pull pressure washer out. Spray both lowers and they're looking clean enough to finally attach the adapter for the hoses. Upper remote: move lever (up I think), push lever against the knob behind it and that via leverage will push the ball bearing section out so I can insert the adapter. Fine....I get it. Go to lower unit, it ain't budging. In fact, if I push that lever (down???) to the knob behind it, the angles don't seem to push it OUT as much as more upward. None the less, it isn't budging. Finally got a long screwdriver to try to gently put behind it to help coax it to at least move..... nothing doing. I'm still concluding this thing has a layer of fine dirt packed inside the sliding motion of it and I'm still convinced I push that lever down/back.... What I'm looking for is , am I doing it correctly? I don't want to bring in some higher leverage only to find out I was backwards and now messed something up. If my presumptions are correct that it's a layer of crusty muck inside there, any preferred sprays to work in to loosen it? If memory serves me, I've got WD40, brake cleaner, PB blaster, I think its called "Free All", possibly another but that's probably it. Any of those preferred? I used WD earlier, Im going to soak it again with PB this time. By the way, the manual I have simlply shows someone putting a hose into the TOP unit (which is why I'm presuming it has to be the same thing, maybe just inverted)

What might I be missing? Cylinder arrived. Been helping wife with more of her yard sale stuff (don't really like doing that as I've got other things to do!) None the less.... I noticed that the ball on this cylinder is detachable. It's also a CAT III ball. My boxblade I believe, is a CAT I size (I think it's 7/8) I presumed I could get a bushing and get a larger bushing that would allow this to fit inside the CAT III ball however, it's not quite that easy! If I use the 7/8 sleeve, it works BUT wobbles around a bit. If I slide that into the larger sleeve, the larger sleeve won't fit the CAT III ball. I did find a CAT III PIN that fit perfectly, so in the end, I think I have to make do. I'm just curious if you can go from CAT I to III via bushings or not. I thought about the CAT III pin but pretty sure without having measured (or thought to really look) I'm pretty sure the pin won't fit the hole on the boxblade so I put it back. I ended up with a 7/8 pin, put the bushing on then stacked some washers to take up the slack so the bushing won't slide out from under the ball. I've not tried yet but pretty sure this will work for my needs. I just thought I'd ask since I'm a curious type.

(Many) years ago, I collected the laundry money. My father had built three apartment complexes. Probably talking 500 units in total. Had laundry facilities in basements. SOMEONE needed to collect coinage... that was me. Separated coins by type (quarters / dimes) then had a manual crank counter and I put all in tubes, went to bank for the deposit. Early on, I got an idea.... I started to weigh the bags of mixed coins. I'd count them and (as an example) ascertained that the average was $34.60 per pound. Realizing there could be a variance, and thinking I was being clever I averaged the averages (kept running totals over time). I later asked the bank if THEY could count it. I realize there's a bit of risk there but I had an idea of how much value is in each pound. We tried that and my estimated value was pretty darn close to their actual. I opted to have them count and deposit it via their automated machines verses me sitting at kitchen table taking couple hours, then schlepping the 50 pounds of wrapped coins to the bank. They never openly charged me. They certainly might have slithered a slice off but their numbers were close to my estimates and I didn't have to take hours counting it. Number of years ago, I worked at a local bank. Now that I was on that side of the coin, I asked what would a teller do if she saw a dollar bill sitting on the floor? Upshot is they would avoid it like the plague because they had to balance. If they felt it wasn't theirs, they weren't touching it. Made me feel more comfortable that years ago, that bank was shooting straight with me (Dad was also friends with the President so that might have helped)

Now that I'm at keyboard verses phone, I might clarify. I've ONLY used these for the lift cylinders on the flexwing mower wings. At that, it's pressure up, gravity down. So I have used them, just not much (little need to raise the wings) None the less....ordered the cylinder unit with hoses but no flow control. Figure if I decide I need them, I can always get them. Picture of item looks to have a (cheesy?) hook & chain that I suppose carries the weight. I was wondering about that. Might keep that, might replace it (if it looks as flimsy in person as the picture) I appreciate everyone's input.