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Everything posted by Coytee

  1. Coytee

    Battery Covers

    I made comment about one fitting (though temporarily it seems) and fell off while cutting a field. I saw it (bent) picked it up and placed it in the toolbox. Left it there until next weekend when I was using tractor (last Thursday/Friday) and when I went to refuel...... noticed it was gone. So it's jumped ship and is again, laying out somewhere, waiting to be rolled over again. Perhaps it's on a quest to find a female cover?? I don't know... with only a small portion of it showing out of the tool box, I was kind of surprised to see it jump out. Now, I have NO idea where it is. I know it will show up sooner or later, probably wrapped around a blade or something. I think I've become a bungee fan. I had bought a pair of them expressly for holding the batteries in, then decided to just "do it right" and buy covers.... so I already had the bungee's ready. Maybe I can take the second (pristine) battery cover, turn it upside down and serve some shrimp in it or something!??
  2. Coytee

    Battery Covers

    I'm glad others (you) consider them a PITA... that is becoming my experience. Fortunately I only care 5% about them....I'm not OCD about them and have other issues to work on. Right now, I have the unused good one (that I could never get to sit tight) sitting in my tool/box drawer... the other one is in the tractors toolbox sticking out the end. Not sure if they're worth the effort given the simplicity of the strap that holds each battery in AND (prior to getting my charging system fixed) access to the batteries for jumping purposes) Now that it's charging that's a moot point but it did illustrate the extra step to go through when you need to do that
  3. Coytee

    Battery Covers

    I got rid of the square battery and put two (not sure of style) 3ET or something like that.... two of the 12V long/skinny type. I bought two covers for them and at the AUTO store, two sets of rods to tighten the lids down. One of them simply slides to the side when I try to tighten it down. The first one, I can get the lid on straight BUT, the other day I was cutting a field and noticed something laying in front of me where I had already cut. Got closer, stopped machine and saw the "working" cover had fallen off and been run over. Now it's bent. It's like the angles are wrong on these things. It's not a big deal....I finally put some rubber straps over the batteries to make sure they stay in place BUT... I was trying to fix things up. I did buy the holding rods at an auto store. I didn't look at the "correct" ones online so for all I know, they might have a slight different angle. Upshot is, when you put these on and tighten them down, they tighten and pull the inside edge UPWARDS. It's almost like the hole (in the lid) is in the wrong place for the angle of the rod. Again, not a huge deal, I can live without them....I was just trying to fix some things that were missing. I also had to buy new cables as I was absolutely paranoid that the lid was going to short on them (one of them was a thicker metal piece and rode a bit high) So in a way, I'm more at ease with the straps, now they can't short.....but it looks a bit more naked now. Is there a secret on putting those things on? Maybe there's a certain wrench size I should use. I didn't use my Torque Multipler, I should get it out. I've not yet bought a 6' cheater wrench!!
  4. Just ordered the starter button.
  5. Got the safety switch. I didn't even think on replacing it.....not terribly worried about it. It works fine and is easy to get to. The reason I did some of the dash parts was simply because I'll be in there and it's much easier to do while it's apart than to take it back apart again and again... Now that I think about it, I did NOT order a starter button..... didn't think about that.
  6. Well if that’s the case it might be an expensive fuse. (Given that I’m buying lights all the way around and a new harness new switches)
  7. When I was ordering some of the (replacement) lights for my fenders, I was asked if I also wanted to replace the fuse on the dash. Huh? what fuse? Went out and looked closer and saw the missing fuse "cap" (whatever it's called) and now I know I have a fuse on the panel. Didn't know that! Gee....I wonder if that's why the lights don't work (??) None the less, I ordered the fuse holder too. I've been wondering what size fuse goes in there. Been looking through the service manuals and see a reference to a fuse but no sizes. Anyone know off top of your head & care to share? (fuse might be included with the lights, switch, fuse holder... that I ordered, but I don't know that)
  8. Yeah yeah yeah.....it's only money but THAT is a nice idea!!! So....fix it, it is. Thanks for the thought!!! (I don't have a cab but charger is good idea too)
  9. Side question.... The harness is on the way. I've not ordered anything else. Key works BUT looks like part of where the key enters is broken a LITTLE bit. Key assembly has a gap behind it where it's not TIGHT against the dash. I'm always nervous the key's going to fall out since it's missing a little part where it inserts. The little Tellite has never worked. I don't know if it's a bad bulb or just the wiring Light switch doesn't work....again.....bad switch or the wiring? I think those are most of the things on the dash that are not a gauge. Well, there is something that on a glance, looks to be a cigarette lighter....(really??) I've not looked at it too closely to see what it is but whatever it is, IT also doesn't work. What I'm wondering is, since I'll have all this apart, should I get a new key assembly, tellite assembly, light switch.... or wait until new harness arrives and THEN find out that the switch might be bad and take another week to get back to it (can only do this on weekends so once I'm dead in the water for parts, I'm dead in water) You know, I think I've answered my own question. So forget the above (I'm going to order/replace it all) but, let me go to the Tellite indicator.... I see the red button on the outside. I'm guessing there's a bulb on the inside.... is that removable OR, does the red part contain the bulb and the ENTIRE assembly have to be replaced? I'm just going to replace everything but if the red part is simply an external lens, I can wait until I dig into that. Before someone illustrates how stupid this is.... simply realize it's much easier for me to work from a clean slate and know EVERYTHING has been dealt with, the incremental cost isn't going to bother me.....besides..... if the switch (for example) IS good, then I'll have a spare!
  10. ("Oh great" I say to myself....."no pressure"....)
  11. Thanks for the various thoughts!!! Since I have a day job, (I cover nine counties so am on the road a lot), I've got to conclude this won't get done at one setting since it's my first time. Maybe if I get an early start....
  12. I THINK I have the (above) diagram. When I was working on other parts of the tractor, I just ignored them so haven't looked at them too closely. Question.... would it be better to yank the old one out.... and have a naked tractor or, lay the new one on top of the tractor and as you remove a wire, put its replacement in and attempt to piecemeal it over? (I have to suspect stripping entire old one out would be more efficient?)
  13. I see.... as you see sparks at the battery, you realize you need to disconnect them first. As you see my turn signals blinking when I turn the key on.... you'll realize to wire yours differently... When you see blood squirt across the video....you'll know not to trim the wires using a Stihl with 20" bar... I see what you're all about!
  14. Since I"ve not seen any of it yet.... I'm presuming (hoping) that it comes in sections (hence the disconnect that I saw under the 'dash') I've got to presume under the dash is where the cluster of wires is... so I've got to presume it would be more organized to deal with that first and then snake out from there. Having never done it, is why I'm asking. Since nobody has said that (start at dash & work out) and you all have more experience with this stuff over the last week than I do over my lifetime, I'm starting to presume that it doesn't really matter. (I already presume it won't be hard, just tedious inside the dash area) Now, where's my torque multiplier.... wife wants me to change the door locks to the house...
  15. I didn’t notice but I did use the same 1 inch torque multiplier on it that I used on my alternator
  16. I didn't copy all of it but, this would be a tidbit I was looking for (thank you)
  17. Interesting crowd at times.... yes, I was joking....poking some fun at myself. I was trying to make light of (an old) comment I made asking about a bolt size... I thought the battery comment might make that obvious but I like the idea of getting it done before the electricity gets there! That said... I do not have anything to go by. I don't expect it to be difficult. I was wondering if I might hear something like "leave it in the sun or in your hot car for an hour to "soften" it up and make it more pliable" (maybe that's never an issue but in autos, I know it can be) Do people generally replace the wire holders at same time? I didn't order those (didn't think about them) now that I think about them, I'm kind of leaning on replacing them since I'll already be in there. I have zero working lights. I ordered the harness and the bulbs (for the dash). Once I get the fenders painted & back on, I'll get some lights for them and hook them up. If the front lights work, great....if not, I'll replace those too. If you mean to tape the old wires, as in cover the wire where it's poking through the covering.... well, I just can't bring myself to do that. It WOULD save a ton of money (relative to buying new harness) but if I'm going to do something, I want to do it right. Besides, I've already ordered the (full) harness. I'll just wait til it arrives.... and dig in.
  18. Should I disconnect the batteries? If so, do you know what size wrench??
  19. Replacing the wiring on the 1066 open station. I've never done this before (but won't let that slow me down) Anyone have any guidance or tips on how to do it most efficiently? (ie, start at the dash and work out....start at front & work back....) I'm guessing that removing the cluster panel would also make that a bit easier (which is why I'm thinking to start at dash and work out)
  20. The Rest of the Story: So, the ammeter was 'pegged' at full left swing. I ordered a new one. When I removed the old one, I set it aside. I installed the replacement. Upon looking at the old one, noticed that it was NOW at zero. It wasn't showing full swing left. Made me fear something draining with tractor off. The new one doesn't do that at all. I have to conclude as Mark above said, the meter was bad. I noticed a couple things after replacing it.... One, the replacement seems to operate correctly which is good. Second (and unexpected)...... when shutting down, I typically turn the key off with engine running, then kill the throttle. I always notice that the dash (specifically the fuel gauge) dies immediately when the key is killed. Not a big deal. Now, with ammeter replaced, I go to turn tractor off, kill key......and NOTHING on the dash dies.....nothing. I realized that with the charging change I made and engine still running, it's getting power. Killed engine and NOW the gauges died. After seeing some of the wires behind the dash, I'm leaning even more now to replace the wiring harness. There are a number of orphaned wires (maybe they don't go anywhere) there are a number of wires with cracked insulation, not a single light works... Not high on my priority list (like fixing the ammeter was) but needs to be dealt with.
  21. Hmmm... So after feeding the dogs/cat, I went out to check batteries again. They are sitting at 12.75 volts (machine off). Good. Started it up, brought to house to change a filter gasket. While it was running, I noticed the Ammeter "pegged" at FULL negative. (far left). Up to now, it's been 100% dead "stuck" at "+1" and now it's pegged far left. When I turned machine off, killed key, the meter stayed. It has yet to move. Only change is I shorted the battery wire to the +2 terminal. Do I have another issue here? Seems this ammeter is at least "not dead" (though it might not be working 100% correct). I've ordered a new one the other day and I'm fine with that. When it arrives, I'll swap them out & see what happens. I am however, intrigued that it's pegged far left.
  22. Just wanted to again say THANK you!! Just got home from work, cobbed a piece of 10 gauge that I had laying around.... I don't know if I should have done this part or not, but I snipped both wires that were in the plug, put some spade connectors on them....replaced wire #1 and then shorted #2 over to the battery terminal. The original #2 wire is wrapped around the #1 wire to keep it out of the way. (I don't like that and while doing it thought again about just replacing the entire harness so I can fix everything) Started machine and now, I'm getting around 14.5 volts at the battery while running. I turned it off and it was interesting.... the value dropped to around 13.6 and as per my DVM, "flickered" as it dropped a bit....then dropped a bit....then dropped a bit.... I finally left when it was down to about 13.25 volts. I didn't (and should have) tested batteries PRIOR to doing this as I think they would have been closer to 12V. It was almost like there was a capacitor in there slowly draining (shrugs shoulders) Still, I just wanted to again, say that I appreciate your help.
  23. Yeah... probably should, . I hear the Snipe are terrible this year!!
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