stronger800 Posted June 27 Posted June 27 Why would that ever break otherwise? If anybody has time to attach me a diagram with part numbers for orings, I’d appreciate it. I had this apart maybe 10 years and 1500hr ago. I could have over tightened it. At that time, the cast piece it threads into (right side seat support) had slightly cracked around the Large plug that faces forward, for unknown reason. We found part of the screen on the relief valve Stuck in the valve. I blamed that, as a guess at the time . Thanks. 1 Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 I am certain I brought this upon myself though, because I feel like last week somebody mentioned how snaprings can be rusty on top of the spool and I said they’re never rusty on my abs, So now they’re not Rusty just very very oily. Quote
billonthefarm Posted June 27 Posted June 27 You would probably be surprised how many cycles of load and unload have worked on that bolt. 2 Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 My father says it was really loud when it shot out. Then the oil went everywhere Quote
acem Posted June 27 Posted June 27 I'd check the pressures when you put it back together. Just to be sure. Quote
bwop2017 Posted June 27 Posted June 27 I had that happen on a hydro 70 once. No rhyme or reason. Get bolts from a dealer and replace all of them Quote
FarmerFixEmUp Posted June 27 Posted June 27 I believe there is a specific torque for those bolts. maybe 25 ft lbs?Too tight and the spools bind in the valve housing. Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 thank you. If that’s the case, I was likely too tight. They were working freely, or I thought anyway. Quote
CIHTECH Posted June 27 Posted June 27 8 hours ago, stronger800 said: If anybody has time to attach me a diagram with part numbers for orings, I’d appreciate it Industry dash numbers for orings, 90 durometer (hard) any hydraulic shop has them. We keep all the dash number sizes here. IH almost always has the dash number listed in the description, just have to know what it means.....CaseIH had a great o ring numbering system which has been sidelined in favor of new system that means nothing. Example 238-6120, 238 tells us its a std round o ring, the last 4 numbers are hardness and dash number. 5 being a std 70 duro and 6 being a hard 90 duro. First 3 numbers 237- is metric size, 238 std size and 239 was square cut. 0.103'' Thk x 1.362'' ID, -126, Cl 6, 90 Duro -120 takes 2 per valve -126 1 per valve 1 Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 Thank you. I don’t always have access to a computer and I struggle trying tonlook up diagrams on my phone. If you can give me numbers and I can give my very good hydraulic shop Monday morning, they will hand them to me and it’s actually 40 miles closer to me than the dealer. I will call the dealer to see if they have bolts this morning and O-rings, but they are typically less than accurate on what they give me. Different tractor on that mower for now Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 I’m struggling to see all the specs in that example, but I’ll look at it later today, and may be able to make more sense. Thank you. Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 I’m close. I see the 120 and 126 now thank you Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 I don’t see where they have the bolts listed one or two valves by length,?I have two valves, but it seems like 4 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts would be right. Quote
HydroTek Posted June 27 Posted June 27 5 hours ago, CIHTECH said: Industry dash numbers for orings, 90 durometer (hard) any hydraulic shop has them. We keep all the dash number sizes here. IH almost always has the dash number listed in the description, just have to know what it means.....CaseIH had a great o ring numbering system which has been sidelined in favor of new system that means nothing. Example 238-6120, 238 tells us its a std round o ring, the last 4 numbers are hardness and dash number. 5 being a std 70 duro and 6 being a hard 90 duro. First 3 numbers 237- is metric size, 238 std size and 239 was square cut. 0.103'' Thk x 1.362'' ID, -126, Cl 6, 90 Duro -120 takes 2 per valve -126 1 per valve Yeah , "they" messed up a good thing when that system was scrapped in favor of a long part number that means nothing to the mechanic Quote
HydroTek Posted June 27 Posted June 27 4 hours ago, stronger800 said: I don’t see where they have the bolts listed one or two valves by length,?I have two valves, but it seems like 4 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts would be right. The Unit Notes are not in the digital parts list like was in the book -- so figuring what parts are needed can be a challenge sometimes You need about 3/4" of threads sticking thru the valve stack to get good "bite" in the threads -- rule of thumb is 1-1/2 times the diameter to figure minimum thread length Watch the valve stack move when you pull the control lever -- then you will understand why that bolt broke over time Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 I removed a hood bolt last night 4.5” but no time to get after it this weekend Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 1.5x the diameter is what my engineer buddies had told me back in school for steel yes. We had to go to Home Depot one night at about 10pm and buy a drill press to finish a project. Forgot the cutting oil. Cooking oil didn’t work good but we had extra bits and taps anyway . 3/4” plate lotta smoke Quote
snoshoe Posted June 27 Posted June 27 Another way is six threads is all that does you any good because of bolt stretch. I always counted 7 because the first and last thread are only 1/2. 1 Quote
FarmerFixEmUp Posted June 27 Posted June 27 https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/case/1066-international-66-series-diesel-tractor-0/07-hydraulics/10-45-hydraulics-control-valve They call for 3/8 x 4 5/8 grade 8 bolts. 20846R1 in 1066 parts book. Now 25786R1. Case IH 1066 - INTERNATIONAL 66 SERIES DIESEL TRACTOR(01/71 - 12/78) Results: 07 - HYDRAULICS 10-41 - HYDRAULICS, AUXILIARY VALVES AND TUBES, REAR Part #: 25786R1 replaces #20846R1 BOLT Hex, 3/8'' - 16 x 4 5/8'', Gr 8 Part #: 25786R1 replaces #20846R1 BOLT Hex, 3/8'' - 16 x 4 5/8'', Gr 8 10-37 - HYDRAULICS, AUXILIARY VALVES AND TUBES, FRONT AND REAR Part #: 25786R1 replaces #20846R1 BOLT Hex, 3/8'' - 16 x 4 5/8'', Gr 8 Quote
stronger800 Posted June 27 Author Posted June 27 Yep. I’m hoping hardware store or local ford dealer has 4.5” ones Monday morning, they are indeed 4 5/8. Thank you Quote
HydroTek Posted June 28 Posted June 28 5" and a couple of hardened flat washers will get the length right dont use standard "soft" washers 1 Quote
stronger800 Posted June 28 Author Posted June 28 We have a very good old school true value hardware store in town. Quote
snoshoe Posted June 28 Posted June 28 I'm counting 10 threads on that piece. At 16 threads to the inch 4 1/2 would leave him 8 and be just as good. Just my opinion. Quote
stronger800 Posted June 28 Author Posted June 28 Your eyes are better than mine…and I held the piece. Broken almost one thread below flush. 4.5….4.6…. Either one better than what i have. I’ll get three Quote
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