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Just got the 1/2" impact with 1400 foot pounds, could choose a freebie with it so got a 5 amp hour battery. It's pretty impressive, but still use the 1/4" more. Got a whole raft of DeWalt tools and two good 18 volt batteries on an auction for $66, they're not bad either.

I have a 56 and a 256. Right now using the 56 as the the 256 has a gearbox problem I haven't checked into yet. The 56 was bought new by my Dad in 1965 I believe for around $550. He traded an old rake paid $100 cash and the dealer carried $250 on a note til the first of the year. Still have original owners manual with the receipt still tucked in it.

No experience myself, but an old friend that's passed on showed me pics of his grinder mixer that he was pulling down the road with his 1206 when a reused rod bolt let go. You could read 18.4x38 in the feed dust on the grinder tank from the tire on the tractor, he said it got pretty hairy,but he kept it upright and on the road.

I've been told the old motors are better, so if they are repairable, it's better to fix the old than buy new.

We always had and still have Fox choppers, but I ran a lot of high moisture ear corn into a Gehl blower with a recutter on it like the one at the beginning going into a Harvestore. Back before anybody thought about putting a corn head on a chopper.

Beautiful country. I always liked the Xts, never rode one bigger than a 250, but it was lots of fun, but I was a lot younger and lighter. I have a TY 250 trials bike my brother and I are trying to get running again.

I drank a lot on weekends when I was young 40+ years ago, but quit once we were married. I drank very little until about 3 years ago when my knee started get bad and the whiskey helped me get to sleep. It got a little worse the last year, my wife is starting to act more like her mother, crazy. But I always laid off at least one night a week. Last Thursday morning a flu virus hit me like a hurricane. I was sitting on the toilet with diarrhea, puking in the waste basket and sweat was running off my elbows making a puddle on the floor. Ended up so dehydrated they put me in the ER for IVs to get rehydrated. So now I've been off the booze for five days, may try to stay off a while, at least til I get my new knee in December.

In my area no t/a makes it worth a lot more, because they know they won't have to spend $4-7000 putting in a t/a. I bought a 1086 a few years ago for $7k, the high side of the t/a is out now so it won't even move IH dealer says $7k to to fix so what do you do? If it hadn't had a t/a it would still be a useable tractor.

I saw a JD 95 with the rear axle removed being towed down the highway by a 3/4 ton once. They had put some kind of hitch on the combine and had it pinned to the pickup.

Our neighbor bought a 656 hydro new and asked my Dad to help him out the cultivator on and get it set. Dad said he couldn't hardly stand to stay on it long enough to get the cultivator set because it was so hot.

I'm in the loess hills of western Iowa and a 195 on a 1486 with 1500 lbs of wheel weights would make it scary when it got light on the drawbar, you had to stay on the contour couldn't go uphill or down. This was on bean stubble.

I don't know about that, but I would guess they might. The guy that told me about doing it had gotten spray solution in his hytran when hydraulic drive sprayer pump screwed up.

I would be leery of what nasty chemical had got spilled and soaked up by the wood floor.

As others said much easier with bottle jack and a line up dowel. You can make a dowel by cutting the head off a bolt and cutting a screwdriver slot. I also made a heavy duty jack stand to put the bottle jack on so you can put the jack under the axle housing.

You can get water absorbing oil filters, I have part numbers and the process how to do it in an email I can look up if you want.

I'm about an hour east of Pender in Iowa. One brother in law lives just north of Pender, one brother in law and one nephew work at JD in Pender, rest of in-laws live in the area. So we go through there quite often.

I had a 1486 that was turned up and it would go 28+ mph. The front end was tight and no problem.

Not trying to be argumentative, but do you mean the corn will go down in 20" rows or what. For moisture wouldn't narrower be better because you would get canopy quicker. Neighbor has 20" rows and likes them, said it wasn't too hard building a 20" head I've thought about doing it myself.

My brother knew a big family farm that loved their beer. They put in a walk-in cooler and started buying beer by the tandem axle truck load. They figured it saved them enough on beer to buy another farm every year.

Just plant your corn in 20" rows and run on 80" centers

I borrow a tool from an independent mechanic that used to work on my stuff til he got a mail carrier job. It pushes the reverse shaft down as you raise the cover up so it stays in the tractor.

Are there any differences between the MCV valve bodies between a 1086 and a 1586. I know the 1586 takes a different spring package than the rest of them. Just wondering if I can use the MCV from a 1086 for a 1586 if I use the right spring package.

If I understand it right northern auto parts is now owned by Arnold motor supply. When I have checked prices they were not as good as before. Fuel pump that was $75 now $260, I don't think there's been that much inflation.

I've hauled a cab 1486 on a 14k gooseneck, no problems, but I wouldn't do it with a bumper hitch without something really stout on the front as someone else said.

I know nothing about the air suspension seat, but the mechanical suspension and seat from a 1660 go into an 86 very easily, I just set it in and put two bolts in existing holes on the front and called it good. Makes a good seat.