801486
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Everything posted by 801486
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When you tell me what I experienced did not happen for the reason two mechanics said you are calling someone a liar. None of you related that it ever happened to you, none of you fixed the tractors, so there is no way any of you know better than me or the mechanics that did the fixing. If it was a hydraulic failure then why didn't fixing the hydraulics fix the 1086. Both the mechanics I mentioned are lifetime mechanics and well respected people. But don't worry I won't ever bother you with any of my stupid opinions again.
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Just to be sure I texted the guy that did all my tractor work until he retired. He started working at an IH dealership when he was still in high school in 1976. He said the loss of steering and brakes was caused by a big internal oil leak from the high side hydraulic clutch of the TA letting go. The 1086 had the mcv valve redone and new mcv pump put in by a dealership mechanic who then tested the pressures and said the problem was caused by the high side of the TA being out. I don't have any dog in this fight, just reporting what happened to me and what I was told by very experienced people. I'm sorry if you think I'm a liar and can't tell when a tractor has brake problems. I like to have good brakes and have installed new brakes in several tractors from an M up to 1086 and they all work. I don't know if I want to tackle putting brakes in the 1586.
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No there was absolutely no warning in either case other than the low side going out years before. And when it happens you lose everything, drive, steering, brakes you're just freewheeling with no controls. I thought it was an mcv problem on the 1086, so the valve was rebuilt and new pump installed, no help. It's not fixed yet if you want to come try it.
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I put a hicap ta in an 856 in 1988. Basically a planter, windrower, occasional tillage, general purpose tractor. I don't think I ever abused the ta, I know I NEVER used it as a high speed brake. The low side went out around 2005. I kept running it and the high side went out around 2010, sending me for a nice ride freewheeling backwards down a hill. I had to let the planter down to get stopped. I did a ta delete and have never regretted it. It's mostly a loader tractor now and it's easier to shift without a ta. Same thing happened with my 1086, high side went out with a planter behind going uphill on a gravel road. Only got stopped rolling backwards when it jackknifed. I've got a complete factory ta delete ta section bought for it that will much cheaper than a new ta. Most crops are no tilled now so I don't need a ta for tillage and since I got a 1586 all my tillage implements I pulled with the 1086 are small enough I don't need a ta for tillage. In my area very few people go to the field with a ta tractor, they are mostly yard tractors now so it seems like straight shaft tractors sell better because people know they will never have the expense of it putting in a ta or eliminating it. They quoted me $7000 to put a ta in the 1086 at the dealership, that's what I paid for the tractor. I have a 560 that's been in the family since new and the original ta in it still works good.
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Neighbor put a new style White cab with the angled doors on a 1456, it turned out really nice.
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I have a dirt mover that looks very similar. One of the original cylinders leaked a lot when I bought it. A local hydraulic shop wanted a lot to rebuild it. These were 22" stroke cylinders but I found two new for less than the price to rebuild one. I put two new ones on and one bent the ram almost immediately. Put another new one and it bent right away. Then thought maybe I should have rebuilt the old one but the shop had pitched it.
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We keep one 600 gallon tank working in a shed with a 1500 watt heater. Some ice sometimes but not enough to bother. We also watered 50 head with a 600 gallon tank filling it once a day. Very seldom it was empty when we got there.
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I've baled a lot with and 856 on a 605J and a 535 JD when the 1486 was broke down. Lots of big hills in the Loess hills of western Iowa. No trouble getting pushed just tipped over once.
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I used to move my three point blade all the way to one side and carefully do the sidewalks at church. Or do ten foot at a time by backing up to the sidewalk with my other blade. Either way was much better the walk behind snowblower.
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If you ever watch Essential Craftsman videos on YouTube your bar looks like of his favorite tools. He calls it a Burke bar.
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When the Maxxums came out a salesman told me that the reverser system was the same as the backhoe.
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Will a Westendort FEL on a 966 fit on an 826 hydro?
801486 replied to jbar's topic in Technical IH Talk
I would think so, the front mount should be no problem and rear shouldn't need more than maybe a hole or two drilled. -
My 1486 has 18.4x38s no fluid but 3-4 sets of weights. It would spin some pulling a 21' disk in the hills back when we disked a lot. The thing that let go on the rear end was the differential. The mechanic asked if had spun a lot to cause the problem.
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We got the parts and got it apart today. We were lucky, no damage to reverse gear, one tooth of the pawl was broke off and one ear of the two that pull it out of park was broken off. The pawl fell off the cover as I was taking the cover off. We will go magnet fishing for the small parts tomorrow. The dealer I go to wanted $764 for the factory Park pawl, I got an Agparts one for $169. The dealer ordered the pawl from Agparts and they had to order the spring from CNH. It took a day longer to get the spring from CNH than the pawl shipped UPS from Agparts. I've got three tractors to get running, when that's done I'll have ten running, so plenty of spares. Then I won't be patronizing the closest dealer anymore. The last three times I had service work done it went very badly. And they wouldn't even give me an idea when they could come work on this park problem. It'll be an hour to a dealer instead of a half hour, but most things I'll just have shipped.
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I got a new aftermarket pawl, waiting on the dealer to get the spring. Its sad when you get something shipped in quicker than the dealer can get something.
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I found a tool for the reverse shaft today to borrow, hopefully will get it fixed tomorrow, hope I can use my good neighbors heated shop, it got cold here today. The 1486 we borrowed the parts from has been on our farm since new. It has done just about everything over the years tillage, haying, chopping, loader work etc.. I could probably count the number of times that linkage has been oiled on one hand or maybe no hands. Its laid up now waiting for a TA. The thing I'm wondering about now is the springs. Over the years we've noticed difference in the springs in the spring loaded park updates we've done on the 06s and 56s, some of them you about need a cheater pipe to pull it out of park. It seems like the 15 is harder to pull out of park than the 14.
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We have what I thought was a low hour 1586, 4300 on meter. My son was driving it and it started making a grinding noise when moving forward and killed the engine when clutch was let out in reverse. I told him he should have stopped immediately. Anyway got to looking and there was a lot of slop where the rod end goes through the hole in the bell crank. Rod end and hole in bell crank both worn so there was at least a 1/4" slop. We stole those two pieces from the 1486 that probably has 10-15000 hours and they weren't worn nearly as much. The park disengages now but won't hold. If doesn't make any noise in reverse so hoping it just broke ends off park pawl. My question is what would make the linkage wear so much?
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I think they'd probably be alright for land or machinery onsite auctions. They had to redo a big online land auction because the executor of the estate was bidding, which I don't really understand the problem because I think the executor had high bid on the parcels he bid on, didn't appear to be just running the bid up. An acreage auction they had they got the acreage sold but a trader bought it and resold at a big profit. They have some online machinery auctions but I don't know if they are advertised well enough, I don't hear about them unless I check their website.
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Not real hard to make bows with conduit and a bender. The lengthwise ratchet strap will help hold it up between ths bows.
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I was headed to the cow pasture a couple miles away with the 856 and feed wagon. Rolling up to highway intersection, started to shift to third to start again after I stopped and the lever fell all the way to the front. I got stopped and found the roll pin on the 1-4 shaft broke. Luckily my grown sons were home today and I called them to bring roll pins, punches, small cordless impact etc. I got the single group 31 battery and the kick panel off before they got there with th impact and got the cowl off. Got one broke end pulled out with a vise grip and spent about 5 minutes lining up the hole and then one son tried to hold it in line and the other held the roll pin with a needle nose while I tapped it in. Didn't seem really tight so we were able to drive a second one inside the first one without much trouble. Probably took a half hour all told, but it was enough to make it so had to finish chores in the dark with the time change. But at least it shifts better into first and fourth now. It's fun driving the old 8 up the road, somebody must have messed with the pump before I bought it. It really pulls the hills well.
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When we'd go out for an extended family dinner, they used to think my mother in-law was my wife. Which is ironic because my wife is the main reason I look so old.
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Reclaiming field and pasture from brush. Removing stumps/roots?
801486 replied to Mudfly's topic in General Chat
If it can be used for pasture, a skid steer with a brush shredder for all that it will cut and a skid steer with a tree shear for anything bigger. Then scatter some seed and let the cattle tromp it in. Have had good luck with this. -
Reclaiming field and pasture from brush. Removing stumps/roots?
801486 replied to Mudfly's topic in General Chat
If it can be used for pasture, a skid steer with a brush shredder for all that it will cut and a skid steer with a tree shear for anything bigger. Then scatter some seed and let the cattle tromp it in. Have had good luck with this. -
Reclaiming field and pasture from brush. Removing stumps/roots?
801486 replied to Mudfly's topic in General Chat
If it can be used for pasture, a skid steer with a brush shredder for all that it will cut and a skid steer with a tree shear for anything bigger. Then scatter some seed and let the cattle tromp it in. Have had good luck with this.
