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801486

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Everything posted by 801486

  1. I know there was a kit available at one time, either Allied Precision or HiCapacity had it. I'm thinking it was Allied Precision and they're out of business.
  2. Just get a heat houser that's about the right size and cut off the part you need. Just fold over and staple where you cut so it doesn't unravel.
  3. Good video I like it when it's just the artist and their guitar or at least appears to be.
  4. We have a 6000 watt poulan was the least expensive when we bought it probably 15 years ago, has never let us down. And it has been running the auger for two bins for two years since we had an underground line go bad.
  5. I can't remember the title but I believe there is a YouTube video about cleaning this screen.
  6. The problem with replacing the center tube is the wishbone shaped piece with the ball on the back end. When the old center tube broke the wishbone got bent. I had a bent one and took it the blacksmith shop to get straightened and they did the best they could, but if was a son of a buck pulling it through the holes on the center tube. A salvage yard I was at the other day had two wish bones for sale, I would try to find a straight one if they not too high.
  7. Some of them put in the old style upper bolster and use a light Schwartz wide front
  8. I like a tractor and finish mower, have run a zero turn and got tired of the clippings blowing in my face.
  9. My 806 came with 18.4/34s and 9.5/15s on it. I put 10:00/16s on it for the loader. For some things that makes the drawbar too low, the implement jack won't lower it far enough for it to sit on the drawbar.
  10. https://www.ebay.com/itm/311585275310 Some on eBay. We used to cut off Danish tine sweeps all the time without any problems. You could try annealing if you cut more off.
  11. My 560 probably has at least 10000 hours and is the fast hitch is floppy but it still works great. If you don't want that, I think the best three point would be the rock shaft and the upper arms and cylinder from a fast hitch and then make you own three point lower arms and attach them to the fast hitch. If you search on here I think you can find where a guy did this same thing with a 560 fast hitch he had mounted on an M. This would much nicer than any after market three point I've seen, I hate trying to climb on a tractor over those.
  12. The fast hitch on my 560 wants to hunt and stick on pressure some times. I finally realized I probably caused the problem by modifying the fast hitch so it would lift higher for a post hole digger, thereby screwing up the teledepth valve. I've read that you can replace the teledepth valve with a regular hydraulic valve. Would that cure my problem and work with the hitch going higher? If I do change to a regular hydraulic valve will I need to change any of the linkage or the lever. Thanks in advance.
  13. I'd either run two bars or homemade pusher units, I hat working on units 30" apart.
  14. Without a cab like that I probably wouldn't be here hunting and pecking on a stupid little phone keyboard.
  15. Schwartz should be lighter, I thought Super Ms all had the live pump by distributor and no belly pump. Used to be an outfit that made aluminum radiators that saved a few pounds.
  16. Buy a cheap slide in pickup camper and throw on the back and you'll be all set.
  17. If you continue to have problems with the wheel moving you might want to consider replacing the wedges, they're not too high price after market.
  18. I have a Ferguson TO20 bought mostly restored at auction for $1000. The seller was the estate of a good friend. It's very similar to an N series Ford but has an overhead valve engine. It starts and runs very well and works great on load out augers. I thought it would be great for mowing lawn and weeds, but it doesn't have enough power for a 72" finish mower and the three point settles on a 60" bush hog so you need limit chains on the three point. Also I never thought about having to have the the PTO engaged or the three point doesn't work. So if you park it the bush hog on, you have to put blocks under it or unhook the PTO while you raise the bush hog.
  19. There is very little difference in actual size or maneuverability between a 656 and a 966. And I believe you mentioned a round bales, a 656 would be underpowered for a full size round baler, a 966 will work pretty hard with a full bale in any kind of hills. I bought an 856 on auction last September for $3000 and it took about $1000 parts and my labor to put it in good shape another $1000 if I had hired it done, so $5000 total.
  20. There is very little difference in actual size or maneuverability between a 656 and a 966. And I believe you mentioned a round bales, a 656 would be underpowered for a full size round baler, a 966 will work pretty hard with a full bale in any kind of hills. I bought an 856 on auction last September for $3000 and it took about $1000 parts and my labor to put it in good shape another $1000 if I had hired it done, so $5000 total.
  21. I had to put range cover, detent kit and shift fork in the last 856 I bought, made it like new again. Also put in the new style park lock, there are two different versions of the spring, one is much easier to pull out of park. I have both and the lighter one always holds fine.
  22. Auction? Private treaty sale? Have you tried to go get it? I bought a feeder wagon on auction time, wired money but didn't get paid invoice, but knew where it was because we had looked at it before the sale so we went and got it and they haven't come to haul me in yet.
  23. http://www.bestreviews.guide/motion-activated-sprinklers
  24. 801486

    CarMax?s

    We took the car to CarMax and they made good on their offer. After they paid off the leasing company, we walked out with a check for $6300. We had some mileage penalties added on the payment for this car from the previous one, without those penalties ,the lease down payment and payments would have added up to $7200 so after the $6300 we got now cost of owning it was only $900 for three years.
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