HydroTek

Pull the plug out of the alternator -- the dash light should go out

Yeah, sounds like those pins Rarely do the pins wear out -- usually the bushings in the arm Weld a bolt onto the stub long enough to use the outer part of the arm as a "puller" -- the welding and cooling will shrink the pin stub -- then use anti seize on the thing when you go back Have drilled the pin thru and put in a grease fitting to push the pin stub out a couple of times -- that is a blind hole in the casting -- so grease will force the pin out

That flasher unit does not need resistors 2 power sources to the flasher unit -- one constant -- "center" terminal -- one from the headlight switch , first position -- outlying terminal -- dash indicator terminals are near the center power terminal -- turn lights are the outer terminals If you get one light steady when you choose a direction -- then you have the constant power source working -- that steady light is from the mechanical selector switch in the unit -- should also work the other direction LED bulbs are polarity specific -- need to check the socket with a meter Check the voltages at the unit plug with a test light -- you can also hot wire the lights without the unit to check the wiring -- go from the center terminal in the connector to the terminals near and see the lights work

Little low -- 300 would be better Yeah your switches are junk

Dont waste time at the pressure switch port -- the shuttle valve is the same oil pressure and test port is right on top 1/8" pipe grease gun hose is what I use on the gauge -- Parker test fitting is in the test port -- thread that out if you done have the coupler

Yeah , you can see the difference in the springs The light spring is fine as long as you are not parking on steep hills changed a lot of them out for customers on more level ground , because of the ease of shifting

Yeah , the blue poo in the threads on new bolts I think "they" just wanted to sell more bolts always just put 242 or 262 -- whichever I had handy at the time

Those are hardened washers -- I have never replaced them The flange bolts were "updates" Do use at least blue lock-tite on the bolt threads

Seen where the truck guys have made a bracket to cover the dowel hole -- keeps the pin from escaping Dunno, I always loc-tite the bolts holding the housing to the block and hammer the dowel hole in the aluminum so it cant come out Really would never been a problem if they had not made the hole drilled all the way thru that back gasket is a pain to put in -- I don't intend to get back in an engine

Does that not have the cap in the center of the hubs ? Remove the cap and thread a bolt in there to depress the release

Hit the dowel pin hole in the cover with a hammer and "stake" the hole so the dowel cant come out -- that pin is below flush in that hole -- should have been done from the factory anyways

Start the tractor in a different speed -- should work in the other gears as long as you stay out of 3rd Check that pressure at the shuttle valve -- should be a Parker test fitting sticking out of the top of the valve

Yeah, carb needs the air system intact to get the engine to idle correctly -- it is a pain for sure -- you have the 90 degree screw driver to set the idle mixture ? Been a while since I have had mine apart -- is there an adjustment on the slide needle ? I have 2 of those Ranchers on my Farm -- only the one has gave any problems , and I think it was mostly from dirt in the fuel. Had to replace the tank valve because the rubber "swelled up" and blocked the fuel ports. Replaced the "choke valve" because the rubber seat had cracks in it . Cable once also , end pulled off the plastic Both of these machines have a mostly "easy" life here spraying fence rows and working cattle -- I run a gallon of aviation gas in the tank -- seems to make the engine idle much better than just plain fuel

Check the "choke" valve on that carb -- the little rubber tip seal dry rots and cracks -- other issue is low fuel flow from the tank valve

Seen them with both markings R1 - F2 -- seems like other things that marking changed over the years You should be asking if there is the flat plug or is it square to identify the alternator Many tractors still have the factory regulator , but are using the 10SI internal -- just have the wires jumpered at the old regulator

More common problem than you are thinking Had an '88 that the customer put new alternator on -- "still not charging" -- one would think that between the mounting bolt or the belt tightening bracket , the alternator would have made ground

Could be lash if the extra heat is making the valve longer and holding it open some -- but more likely valve sticking from carbon can be the issue Mowing a lawn rarely puts the engine under much of a load -- unless that "lawn" is like my neighbors -- then more like a hay field Hole in the muffler -- blowing hot exhaust back on the carb or intake

Can lead a horse to water ...

Was not certain when the lube light got split off in the models Really in the shop it was not important to know when the light was added -- just did the tractor have the extra lube light or not

turn the engine so the marks in the pump line up before removing

Same -- just two singles in one engine

charge light for the alternator - also the TA lube light

Spark jumps both plugs at the same time in that engine so spark is "grounded" thru the plug that is not making power -- the plugs are connected in series would shorten the spark gap some

Yup -- had not heard those called grippy ribs Tires may just be old an dry rotted enough to not grip the rim

Run the engine just off idle , and steer Listen closely to the RPM sound of the engine -- the engine should slow slightly as you steer -- this is normal -- until you hit the end -- not normal to labor when not steering Same for the 3pt -- engine should not noticeably change in speed as the arms move without a load