1066 clutch

[885]

Today all of the sudden the clutch on the 1066 wouldn't fully disengage. I shut it down and pulled the inspection cover and found one of the 3 adjusting screws?? That contacts the throwout bearing was laying on the inspection cover so the clutch isnt fully releasing. The threaded hole looks stripped. Im assuming its clutch and pressure plate time. I see there are 6 and 8 pad versions. Its turned up to 145 on the pto. Which clutch should I go with? And can someone give me a good walk through on where to take things loose (hydraulic connections, linkages, steering/dash, etc)?

[HydroTek]

I think try threading the button back in the arm first 

get the last bit of life out of that clutch

6 pad is fine unless you heavy till with that tractor 

[885]

1 hour ago, HydroTek said:

I think try threading the button back in the arm first 

get the last bit of life out of that clutch

6 pad is fine unless you heavy till with that tractor 

There are no threads left in the pressure plate. That was the first thing I tried. We do chisel plow with it a little. A 7 shank with 2 inch spike points

[dale560]

4 minutes ago, 885 said:

There are no threads left in the pressure plate. That was the first thing I tried. We do chisel plow with it a little. A 7 shank with 2 inch spike points

You can take the finger out from underneath on some tractors. If you look at middle part of pressure plate in spring area. Most have a 3/8 bolt to pull pressure plate together for assembly. You can thread bolt in pull pressure plate together enough to slip pin out and remove finger. Once finger is out either replace bolt and spot it in place with welder. We used to keep a supply of old pressure plates for fingers. Rebuild quality in the early 90s was terrible I bet I replaced 15 pp in a couple years. All case ih rebuilds. I finally started to weld all tip bolts in before installation. One pressure plate doesn’t have the holes threaded I am thinking the big spring ones but can’t remember and it was always on 806s it seems I worked on.

[dale560]

Like I said some of the pressure plates don’t have the bolt holes. So hopefully you are lucky enough. 

[FarmerFixEmUp]

33 minutes ago, dale560 said:

 Rebuild quality in the early 90s was terrible I bet I replaced 15 pp in a couple years. All case ih rebuilds. I finally started to weld all tip bolts in before installation. 

I've been doing that too the last while, or red loctite. 

[Gearclash]

Exact same thing happened to our 1066 25 + years ago not long after the clutch was replaced. 

[885]

10 hours ago, dale560 said:

You can take the finger out from underneath on some tractors. If you look at middle part of pressure plate in spring area. Most have a 3/8 bolt to pull pressure plate together for assembly. You can thread bolt in pull pressure plate together enough to slip pin out and remove finger. Once finger is out either replace bolt and spot it in place with welder. We used to keep a supply of old pressure plates for fingers. Rebuild quality in the early 90s was terrible I bet I replaced 15 pp in a couple years. All case ih rebuilds. I finally started to weld all tip bolts in before installation. One pressure plate doesn’t have the holes threaded I am thinking the big spring ones but can’t remember and it was always on 806s it seems I worked on.

Since pictures arent working, I think this is the type plate like is in mine from what i can tell. Am I going to be lucky enough? I am not sure where the 3/8 bolt goes?

https://www.agkits.com/international-1066-1086-1206-1256-1456-1466-1468-pressure-plate-reman-heavy-duty-14-15-spring.aspx?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21846006667&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk5nVBhDiARIsAHNGqadST65A83yXqAU1SXKjzI7UFoVzV4ZwdguAPFd31voJgHX57nsnH0YaAuy9EALw_wcB

 

 

[HydroTek]

No bolt holes in that picture -- but can see the wussy chocks they are using under the fingers

Some pressure plates used an "L" shaped metal under the end of the pins to hold them compressed
-- others used a more substantial chock under the back of the arms 

that thin "chock" looks like it would bend , or bend the arm at the back side 

[885]

10 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

No bolt holes in that picture -- but can see the wussy chocks they are using under the fingers

Some pressure plates used an "L" shaped metal under the end of the pins to hold them compressed
-- others used a more substantial chock under the back of the arms 

that thin "chock" looks like it would bend , or bend the arm at the back side 

So im looking at a split at the least to take the pressure plate off and tack that button back on the finger. If clutch looks good when I get it apart I can just repair and save a few bucks.

[885]

10 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

No bolt holes in that picture -- but can see the wussy chocks they are using under the fingers

Some pressure plates used an "L" shaped metal under the end of the pins to hold them compressed
-- others used a more substantial chock under the back of the arms 

that thin "chock" looks like it would bend , or bend the arm at the back side 

So im looking at a split at the least to take the pressure plate off and tack that button back on the finger. If clutch looks good when I get it apart I can just repair and save a few bucks.

[HydroTek]

I would tack in place thru the inspection cover

just be sure to ground onto the clutch finger -- so the power is not ran thru anything "important" 

gonna need a stick welder to reach up in there -- just a tack after all 

[dale560]

6 hours ago, 885 said:

Since pictures arent working, I think this is the type plate like is in mine from what i can tell. Am I going to be lucky enough? I am not sure where the 3/8 bolt goes?

https://www.agkits.com/international-1066-1086-1206-1256-1456-1466-1468-pressure-plate-reman-heavy-duty-14-15-spring.aspx?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21846006667&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk5nVBhDiARIsAHNGqadST65A83yXqAU1SXKjzI7UFoVzV4ZwdguAPFd31voJgHX57nsnH0YaAuy9EALw_wcB

 

 

If yours has the full set of springs probably no bolt hole. Look very good around that middle spring area. That is where the hole with threads on plate is located if they have one. Just thought of it though try thread a bolt into middle of that spring. The threaded part should be there. But who knows on the aftermarket stuff. Look up a regular m in service manual. They have detailed instructions on that bolt setup.

[HydroTek]

if the threads are in the middle hole
one could use a threaded rod and a "cup" to go over the spring retainer x3
or make a cross bar and bridge 

just depends on how bad you want the finger off that pressure plate and if it is easier to just split the tractor 

[mrfred54]

Just me, but all this thinking and trying to repair the finger, I would have the tractor split already and I hate working on a creeper and shi#& falling on my face😉

[dale560]

2 hours ago, mrfred54 said:

Just me, but all this thinking and trying to repair the finger, I would have the tractor split already and I hate working on a creeper and shi#& falling on my face😉

Takes about an hour to pull finger out and fix it vs the 5 hours to split and replace stuff. If you are good and have a helper you can put that warranty pressure plate in in under 3 hours on a 1066 cab tractor. Time starts to shutting engine off in shop to starting engine to back it out. That is only changing bearing and clutch ,pressure plate nothing else.

[1967806]

11 hours ago, dale560 said:

Takes about an hour to pull finger out and fix it vs the 5 hours to split and replace stuff. If you are good and have a helper you can put that warranty pressure plate in in under 3 hours on a 1066 cab tractor. Time starts to shutting engine off in shop to starting engine to back it out. That is only changing bearing and clutch ,pressure plate nothing else.

You had stuff working out good then. 3 hours on that job was before some hood bolts got cross threaded by some other jack#ss before it came in to my shop and I had to take a grinder to cut the heads off to get the hood off. And they were regular 5/16 bolts out of a bolt bin. Then you get on the bolts to take the cover off the top of the hood over the spot in front of the radiator to unhook the wires going to the headlights and a couple of them twist off........... Then you are a half day in. Or more. 

[dale560]

8 hours ago, 1967806 said:

You had stuff working out good then. 3 hours on that job was before some hood bolts got cross threaded by some other jack#ss before it came in to my shop and I had to take a grinder to cut the heads off to get the hood off. And they were regular 5/16 bolts out of a bolt bin. Then you get on the bolts to take the cover off the top of the hood over the spot in front of the radiator to unhook the wires going to the headlights and a couple of them twist off........... Then you are a half day in. Or more. 

Not every job but this is directly to this thread. Had a 1066 white cab we put a clutch in and finger broke. It halve ruined the bearing my brother and i ran it in sunday afternoon at 2 in the afternoon he helped pull covers and hood. I pulled it apart swapped ppressure plate disc and bearing and rolled it back together. It was odd tractor that went together very good. I t was running outside before 5 . I was motivated to get it together though. It was just a thing that made you mad you had to redo it. And this wasnt normal , no seals to change , no flywheel to remove or other stuff. We never used splitting stands either. 4 ton long reach jack, air cannon under back, set of special made blocks for axles and under pan for jacking. That saves 20 minutes.  Plus is was 30 years old then young enough to work. Had a few other midnight fixes we didnt screw around on either. When i was young there was no bar to go to, no night life just bust your butt work everyday of the week.

[1967806]

1 hour ago, dale560 said:

Not every job but this is directly to this thread. Had a 1066 white cab we put a clutch in and finger broke. It halve ruined the bearing my brother and i ran it in sunday afternoon at 2 in the afternoon he helped pull covers and hood. I pulled it apart swapped ppressure plate disc and bearing and rolled it back together. It was odd tractor that went together very good. I t was running outside before 5 . I was motivated to get it together though. It was just a thing that made you mad you had to redo it. And this wasnt normal , no seals to change , no flywheel to remove or other stuff. We never used splitting stands either. 4 ton long reach jack, air cannon under back, set of special made blocks for axles and under pan for jacking. That saves 20 minutes.  Plus is was 30 years old then young enough to work. Had a few other midnight fixes we didnt screw around on either. When i was young there was no bar to go to, no night life just bust your butt work everyday of the week.

That age thing has made a difference for me. Just told someone the other day I dont work as fast as I used to. I find myself so many times getting to my toolbox and trying to remember what I was going to get. 

[dale560]

7 minutes ago, 1967806 said:

That age thing has made a difference for me. Just told someone the other day I dont work as fast as I used to. I find myself so many times getting to my toolbox and trying to remember what I was going to get. 

And this was a tractor that I put a clutch in a few months before so it was warranty’s 

[mrfred54]

On 9/14/2026 at 10:33 AM, dale560 said:

Takes about an hour to pull finger out and fix it vs the 5 hours to split and replace stuff. If you are good and have a helper you can put that warranty pressure plate in in under 3 hours on a 1066 cab tractor. Time starts to shutting engine off in shop to starting engine to back it out. That is only changing bearing and clutch ,pressure plate nothing else.

After that hour, what about the other two?? I’ve seen all three come out. That’s why I always split and replace. Had one just a couple years ago where all three were pushed through the threads to the head