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Posted
5 hours ago, mike newman said:

..I have to do battle for an outfit with a Fiat...very similar to this International creation....It involves removing final drives in their entirety to fix (replace) the brakes...Its an SOB of a job,given  the diminutive size of the machine...

T-340 was basically first USA wet/sun drive which all others went to.

Yes 3/4-7/8 disassembly to change std IH disc brakes with +- 1/16" life.  So where do you stop ? do you change the disc $50,without  $500 on brake repair, $2k on finals,$2K on sun disc,   all of these are open/minutes away.

then $7K on 60yrs NLA UC.......... ooops the decent engine was $700 ,went illegal NLA.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
4 hours ago, TN Hillbilly said:

Now THAT is cute. You should buy it for the next time M. Newman stops buy. Running that could occupy his time during his visit...

....if it was one of those  "T 2's "..I would be interested ...but that T340 looks a bit 'above my paygrade.'....as some are wont to say.....:unsure:

Mike
"
 

Posted

Question:
I found the drain, fill, and dipstick for the hydraulic and transmission in the center rear area.  I also found drain plugs on each side in the housings that drive the tracks.  I think this is called the final drive.  I could not find fill plugs for those side housings (final drives).  Can anyone give any insight to that?  Are they fed by the center reservoir and just drained on the sides?

 

I want to replace all the fluids before running it.

 

Thanks!

Posted
4 hours ago, Bradley David Good said:

I want to replace all the fluids before running it.

Just throwing good $$$$$ after bad.

just crack 3-6 turn carefully drain off the 1-8oz water,,+ to just above add.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/6/2026 at 12:20 PM, just Dave said:

Unfortunately it is a long project with NO parts support. The rental machine will work 10x faster than an old one, you have to baby old stuff. The ease of operation newer vs old is not even comparable. So sorry, good luck.

Yes rental is the main plan.  I am having fun with this old machine and the guy who owns it, and I'm learning a lot about it, and troubleshooting and mechanics in general, so it is worth a little cash to me to continue, until I find there is a blocker of a big cost.  

Thanks!

Posted
19 hours ago, mmi said:

Just throwing good $$$$$ after bad.

just crack 3-6 turn carefully drain off the 1-8oz water,,+ to just above add.

I don't mind spending the money it takes to get new fluid in there.  Already it's worth the money from the experience learning and how fun it's been working with this guy and building a relationship.  I in no way feel that it is throwing away money.   If I don't buy it, I still would feel it was money well spent, on learning and a great experience, and documenting it for others, who can then have more information to make decisions on machines like this they may find.

Posted

Question:
I found the drain, fill, and dipstick for the hydraulic and transmission in the center rear area.  I also found drain plugs on each side in the housings that drive the tracks.  I think this is called the final drive.  I could not find fill plugs for those side housings (final drives).  Can anyone give any insight to that?  Are they fed by the center reservoir and just drained on the sides?

 

I want to replace all the fluids before running it.

 

Thanks!

Posted
4 hours ago, Bradley David Good said:

I don't mind spending the money it takes to get new fluid in there.  Already it's worth the money from the experience learning and how fun it's been working with this guy and building a relationship.  I in no way feel that it is throwing away money.   If I don't buy it, I still would feel it was money well spent, on learning and a great experience, and documenting it for others, who can then have more information to make decisions on machines like this they may find.

Just the tough love FACTS.

I am still waiting to see that it was(will) doing "real work" two years ago.     being told by trusted person that it worked fine before that.

you start off wanting to pinch $1 out of $.05

Good if you NOW want to save it $$$ vs actually work a project.

It is also great your money tree now just blooms another $400 to BURN. As davos mandates new every two, to enrich the "elites".

It is Even PC/environmental to import another 20g of oil for a fuzzy feeling.

While what you have, if filtered would last another 20 years.

Should it not be in the shop every month like a jaguar/LR.

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 6/4/2026 at 4:24 PM, Bradley David Good said:

Hi,

I looked at this yesterday. I need something for a few months to level my sloped yard and create tiers. The yard is mostly shale and not much dirt.

The dozer has sat for two years. being told by trusted person that it worked fine before that.

Hydraulic fluid on dipstick looked clean new and full. Engine oil looked fine too. Rust looks surface only and nothing serious. Tracks look good. 

Guy was talking $3,000. 

I told him I need it running and everything working and he is getting his nephew mechanic to do that.

Here is the list I made:

Radiator leaking?
4 hyd hoses replaced
Fuel tank and injection pump cleaned
New v belt
Battery

Thanks!

its about a 1000.00 machine if you must have it.  them  IHC 4 cyl. diesels are scarce and not much for  parts. they are the 282 engine minus 2 cylinders. sprockets and tracks do look good. 

Posted

I watched the you tube videos, only had to cover one eye…

you need more battery.  Tap that injection pump. It’s likely well set up though.
im  thinking  that wasn’t running 2 years ago 

Posted
12 hours ago, rustred said:

its about a 1000.00 machine if you must have it.  them  IHC 4 cyl. diesels are scarce and not much for  parts. they are the 282 engine minus 2 cylinders. sprockets and tracks do look good. 

I believe  the 282  engine minus two cylinders is 188 cubic inch's...i.e. 504  size....   ''them ''  IHC  diesels in that little tractor are 166  cubes.......

Mike

Posted
11 hours ago, mike newman said:

I believe  the 282  engine minus two cylinders is 188 cubic inch's...i.e. 504  size....   ''them ''  IHC  diesels in that little tractor are 166  cubes.......

Mike

yes 166 cid.  i was just saying to look at that little diesel, it looks like a miniature 282. used to have one in a 340.

Posted

I spent another day with the Barn Doctor working at the TD340. 

So far I've spent mostly hours and not much on materials, and I've gained lots of experience and knowledge of this type of equipment. And I've enjoyed it thoroughly.

And I've enjoyed working with the Amish Maguyver, he's quite a character, and makes use of everything and is a decent problem solver. 

So I'm enjoying the work and the company and gaining knowledge and experience well worth my time.

I showed up this time with 3 fan belts of different sizes because the OG was broken, 3 buckets of hydraulic fluid, a bucket of engine oil, and some fuel hose fittings from amazon. 

The only thing I think I used so far was the fittings. Haven't opened any of the fluids, so they can be donated to my favorite farm if we don't get the diesel running.

In that last day I think what we accomplished was to exhaust every idea that he and I had to start this thing. 

And I drained the hydraulic fluid and saw the status of that. A lot of water at first, then a lot of fluid in very good condition, and then some clumpy stuff and sediment. 

I've also been watching videos and know about the hydraulic fluid filter, and engine filter. 

My theory is that the fuel injection pump is frozen. I've heard that 3 times from either Amish mechanics we talked to or videos or some forum post somewhere.

The Doctor is going to try to get a mechanic friend/family or 2 to look at it and see what they think.

I told him if they don't get it running, and they also suspect the fuel injection pump, that I'd vote for taking the lid off that and since we sucked the fuel out of it, fill it with ATF and let it sit for a couple of days, then turn it over, maybe suck the ATF back out, try starting it again. And if that doesn't work, maybe even add some acetone to the ATF. If a rebuild is necessary, any rubber, seals, diaphragms are going to be replaced anyway so why not try it.

I've researched the oil and hydraulic filter and the kit to rebuild the fuel injection pump.

I also found a video on how to rebuild the pump and the pump manual, or a similar pump manual. I haven't gone thru those in detail but as my goal lately is to learn mechanics and take on challenging jobs I think this is a great opportunity even if I fail.

I'm ordering the filters and the rebuild kit all for $97.

If the doctor can't get it running with the mechanics, I'm going to offer that if we can get it off and onto my bench at home, I'll be willing to take a stab at rebuilding it. I will let him know that I could fail, and/or ruin it, but I'll carefully save and document all the parts and youtube short video all of it along the way. 

But I don't think he will pay $500-1500 for a shop to rebuild it anyway, so I may be his last hope to get that thing running. I'm certainly not going to spend that money.

But a $50 for a rebuild kit, yes, I'm glad to try that just to learn.

Then if we get it running, then I'll dump in my new fluids and the filters, and that's another $200 or whatever it is, and again, I'm good with that, just for the experience and chance that it may perform.

I have some videos from the 2nd day I'll post later, gotta go for now.

Thanks for your help!

Posted
6 minutes ago, Bradley David Good said:




..........................my goal lately is to learn mechanics and take on challenging jobs I think this is a great opportunity even if I fail............................


Thanks for your help!

It already does not work, no direction to go but forward.

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