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Farmall Doctor

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Farmall Doctor last won the day on June 24 2019

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About Farmall Doctor

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  • Birthday 07/31/1976

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    Ridgetown, Ontario, Canada

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  1. Maybe the seller has it... and thought it was just some sort of casting.... you never know! Next question, where did the seller find that??
  2. 1980 or '82 was when Champions were good. They started going to crap in the early 90's.
  3. Autolite 3116. Non resistor plugs, also, the heat riser MUST be operating correctly.
  4. Does the shift lever go into the reverse slot?
  5. When you mentioned replacing "the line" i assumed it was one piece, and therefore D358. Also, the US engine does not use banjo bolts and fittings on the injectors. Yes, i think all of the cummins including Maxxum series use the same washers. I keep them in stock. Very handy.
  6. Farmall Doctor

    1086 A/C

    Read all the books you want... take all of the courses, get your ticket, buy all of the apparatus and professional machinery you want, successfully repair tractor air conditioning units for 25 years, and someone will still tell you that your methods and procedures are wrong! HAHA!. I was told as such on this forum a year or so ago. But if I may add, there is no replacement for experience and conscious working knowledge of the system...and a bit of intuition. Every system has its own personality. Gauges tell one tale, but the ending is often different. Some systems will work great with the low side crowding the zero psi, and even low high side pressures! Some work great with 30 psi low and 200 high. The first and last things I go by is the actual temps of the refrigerant lines! You can see how well the condenser is working, whether the receiver/dryer is getting saturated, if the TXV is operating optimally, if the evaporator is efficiently removing the heat from the cab environment air, etc etc. EX: if the low side line is frosting at the compressor inlet, but not cooling the cab, then the evaporator core is plugged, fan is not operating to specs, or air filter is plugged. If low side is not frosting, and the cab is not cooling, charge is correct and compressor is good, then the Thermal Expansion Valve is stuck open. There are other symptoms both good and bad, but it took me many years of many different makes and models and problems to REALLY get a hang at doing AC jobs. When a customer says they threw a couple of cans of refrigerant at it, well, it all gets recovered and the proper charge before doing any further diagnosing. There's a couple more cents to the conversation, albeit Canadian Cents. Cheers, eh.
  7. The fuel control "mechanism" is behind the small cover on the main forward body just under the fuel inlet elbow. 4 screws. They have been known to stick from getting gummed up, and sometimes some good strategic application of penetrating oil and some careful persuasion with some pliers will work them loose. Sometimes it only needs done once, sometimes it will gum up and stick again in short time. That's what is being discussed.
  8. On the return line: I have done the same as mentioned: cut the crimps off and use new pieces of hose if the one from the dealer is too spendy... but the new ones do fit right and look nice. I'd like to add though, once in desperation to get a unit running in the field I used clear plastic fuel line from the hardware store. it fits really nice on the barbs, easy to work with, and it is still on the same engine and not leaking 10 years later! Also, instead of fumbling with two tiny copper washers on each banjo bolt, get a set from a cummins in a Magnum. they are two washers as one with a copper loop.
  9. Not exactly. That would be much better than the mechanical diode if they could fit it into the space where the sprag is. The problem with the "MD" is that with any kind of wear you may end up with just one, or a few of the "flappers' seating all the way into place for lockup. The Massey Ferguson Multi Power had a good low side system that was completely mechanical and never(?) failed, but their high side was weak.
  10. T´╗┐his is a good reference to set up the clutch, TA and trans brake on all of the "06 through '86 series tractors. I have found that these settings are the best to provide the best performance from these great tractors... don't let anyone tell you that you can't shift them!! First thing I do is disregard everything that's written in the service manuals... Not that they're wrong, but when they are set up right they shift up and down through the gears if you "think before you shift" hehe. Check that when the TA is forward in Direct Drive position that the snap ring on the spool valve is bottomed against the housing- this is very important! Adjust accordingly in the linkage or the cable at the firewall. First thing to do is set up the clutch with extra free play. This is usually to your own liking, but I set them up so that the tractor starts to move when the heel of your boot is still on the floor. This makes it easier to feather the clutch for hitching equipment or moving a few feet in the lineup at the elevator. Don't make any adjustments on the booster, only on the turnbuckle going down to the clutch release shaft (which requires a 9/16" wrench to loosen the locking block and a large flat screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw on the '86 series and two 15/16" wrenches on the older models without a booster, or two 3/4" wrenches with a booster). Once you have this adjustment where it is comfortable, make sure that the lube oil tellite is working on the dash. It should come on when the clutch is pushed all the way down. Adjust the linkage so that when in High Range, 3rd gear the light should go out just before the tractor starts to move as you slowly let the clutch out. Now adjust the transmission brake. Run the tractor at idle speed with the speed transmission in 3rd gear. Push the clutch to the floor and count 1-2-3- and try to slowly shift into High Range. It should go in nicely with only a "clunk" from the gears. Try to adjust this accordingly. Too tight or too loose will make for hard shifting. Remember to break loose the jamb nut before removing the locking pin... they sometimes get a bit tight. I have been setting them up this way for quite some time now... (and be sure to make all adjustments in this order) and it has worked quite well. Be sure to lube all of the shift linkages from the levers to the top of the transmission from time to time, and you will have a super nice useable tractor.
  11. Good going! It would be interesting to hear stories right from the source. A few years ago one of the Connor Bros started chatting on a pulling group on Facebook, and it turned into an entire history lesson on the White 2-180 Bad Medicine! He shared a lot of tricks they used, some legal, some borderline, and some that the NTPA had to write new rules for! haha. I couldn't care less about the million dollar "race tractors" of today. The old brute force mostly stock tractors built in farm shops are more interesting to me.
  12. I caught a problem on a 986 that I rebuilt. The machine shop found the valve springs losing some tension. They used to put a washer under the spring to compensate. Instead they used keepers that put the retainer cap down farther on the stem. Within a few revolutions of the engine the valve seals were ruined from being smashed against the valve guide! I was none too pleased, but the shop sent a guy out to my shop to repair the problem with the head installed free of charge. Claimed they never heard of such a problem. That might be something for you to check.... clearance between valve guide and retainer at full stroke.
  13. Thanks!! Mentally, I don't feel 44 yet. Physically, 54.. haha. Wife and kids got me a Mandolin to learn!
  14. It's all funded by the Nazi George Soros. Why is that guy still walking free?
  15. So....if oil pressure was better with 30W, why not use it??? I have seen that comment so many times on this board, how there is less blow by and better oil pressure but outright refuse to use it... I don't get it.
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