striker782

Yes. Just have to get a connector and a couple of wire terminals

We fought this problem a lot when we started using the flared bin extensions. Problem solved by using a diaphragm style sensor. https://www.radwell.com/Shop?source=GoogleShopping&IgnoreRedirect=true&ItemSingleId=44653713&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp44653713&sc_intid=44653713&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI87Lt-d7r6wIVVyCtBh3kcwdqEAQYDiABEgKNhvD_BwE

Use a small pair of snap ring pliers. Put both points of the pliers in one of the flex ring holes and work it over one of the pins as you stretch the ring. Have done many this way.

The PPH pump was not offered in the 886.

There was a change to the lube valve spool to help with this problem, especially in cold weather. There was a service bulletin issued. Unfortunately I don’t have access to those any longer

Are these the ones? https://www.ebay.com/i/124241939520?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=124241939520&targetid=935065067907&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9024587&poi=&campaignid=10877149903&mkgroupid=107473315912&rlsatarget=pla-935065067907&abcId=9300400&merchantid=101744447&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzaaRnoyw6wIVhCmzAB3U-QcvEAQYAyABEgJN0PD_BwE

The diode replaced the sprag clutch that was the drive for the low side in the TA. The diode sounded like a great idea but they didn’t prove reliable, especially in the 14s and 15s. The attached photo is not the one used in the TA but is similar.

We installed quite a few of those back in the day. Reputation for them was very poor. Many got replaced under warranty and not by a diode ta.

The early 86 series cab had a strip of metal that went straight forward to the windshield with no provision for the wing to lay in like the later cabs did.

Unloading valve piston sticking. Orifice in piston probably plugged

Are you sure it’s bled out? Pump hand primer to get air out of lines and hose to pump. Put throttle at wide open for excess fuel. Crank engine. You can hear the pump clatter when it injects fuel.

Pump can still be off 180 as drive gear turns at engine speed while head and rotor turn half of that due to internal gearing. Just line up pump timing marks. Remove the three bolts holding gear on. Rotate pump driveshaft one full turn. Align marks. Install and tighten bolts. Make sure that degree timing is correct on dampener or flywheel of course

Details here: https://www.ccjdigital.com/navistar-international-potential-a26-engine-recall/

This motor has wet sleeves sealed on the lower end by a single o ring. Drop the oil pan and check for leaks around the sleeves.

What you are seeing is normal. It is oil flow being dumped back to sump by the unloading valve. The gear pump has a constant volume of oil that has to be sent back to sump if no hydraulic function is on demand