striker782

I have worked on quite a few of these during my career in the dealership. Often problems were caused by a plugged radiator and condenser. A thorough cleaning would help a lot. However I had a 5088 that drove us crazy. It came in with a compressor failure. Did the normal flushing the system, replaced expansion valve and dryer. Thoroughly cleaned evaporator, condenser, and radiator. Installed a new Sanden compressor. Checked condition of pulleys and belts. Vacuumed system and installed recommended amount of R134. System would cool but couldn’t keep up on a hot humid day. Pressures ran on the high side but not out of range. Both heater hose valves were turned off. HyCapacity makes a kit where you install an auxiliary condenser above the oem one. We installed one on this tractor over ten years ago and system works so much better. High side pressure lowered about 50 psi.

We got hooked on Schitts Creek on CNBC. Absolutely one of the better sitcoms that we have found. We are on streaming so no problem getting it in the US

Not the same. Longer stroke with 466. Rods are the same.

Probably the flex plate in the flywheel has come apart. Split at rear of engine.

Google the two and you can get all the info you want. An attenuator may or may not be pass through. It is intended to soften the hydraulic pulses. An accumulator is intended to be a device that stores hydraulic pressure by using a diaphragm or a piston with pressurized nitrogen behind it. Used to provide a quick charge, such as transmission shifts. On combines and windrowers, accumulators are used mainly for header floatation.

Here ya go!

Wouldn’t work very well at night!

Here are mine. Just don’t ride the 2 wheeler much since we got the trike. The red one is an 02 VTX 1800 with 48,000 miles The trike is a 10 Goldwing with a California Side Car conversion installed in 13. It has 32,000 miles on it

He is wanting the detent plate that is riveted on to the end cover of the remote valve. Looks to me like it is not available separate from the end cover. And that part is probably no longer available.

I used a roll pin punch and drove them out. You have to drive them down towards the main bearing bore.

It uses a master cylinder fed by a common reservoir. It is vitally important that only mineral oil has been added to it. If regular brake fluid has been installed you are looking at extensive repairs.

Yes they have a shoulder on them and the bore in the block is stepped. You just drive in the tubes as far as you can.

You have to remove crankshaft and bearings to drive balls out and install cooling tubes. The part number for a 414 tube is 343464R1. The price will scare you. Tube price $102.31 each. I have never installed these tubes in a 300 series block but I think that they would be the same as a 400 series. The 400 series uses 2 tubes for each piston. The 300 series parts also shows 12 balls in the block.

The holes are drilled all the way through and plugged with a steel ball on the 400 series non turbo motor. Just drive out the ball and drive in the tube.

Have been a loyal Pontiac owner for a long time. My wife still has a 2005 GTP. It’s fast but can’t keep up with our 2015 Taurus SHO. It has the 365 hp twin turbo Ecoboost. Both are fun to drive and travel in. GM killing Pontiac resulted in me never owning anything GM ever again.