striker782

612180C1

There is a rubber hose in the rear compartment near the ring gear that goes from the suction tube upward to a fitting coming down from top cover. I have seen that hose split above the oil level and cause oil to aerate. If you replace be sure and use oil resistant hose. TheItem 17 on attached parts illustration

Yes the hydraulic hose will cause horsepower loss. I had a customer’s 986 that I dynoed with a hydraulic hose then put on the OEM hose. It gained 15 horsepower just changing to the correct hose. Do not use heater hose. Just put on the correct one.

Need to replace the hydraulic hose from final filter to pump inlet. OEM hose is much softer and will dampen pulsations from gear pump. Hydraulic hose will cause loss of horsepower

But what do you do when the beans are dry and the stems are green? Bean fields around here are rapidly changing from green to yellow so leaves will drop soon. Some guys will be harvesting in two weeks or less. The moisture level will be low. The stems will be tough. Ever since the seed companies bred the plants to stand better and not lodge we have had to adjust for this. I agree that it would be nice to wait but the moisture level in the beans indicate otherwise

Removing them will help keep the green material moving through the concave area better.

The bulletin you referred to recommends that you remove the short straight bars that are located by themselves. They are only needed in harder threshing small grains. They actually retard the flow of material in corn and beans.

As a side note, if the hose to the pump is a hydraulic hose, you need to replace it with an original equipment hose. It is a much softer hose that absorbs the fuel pulsations from the gear pump. Hydraulic hose will cause power loss.

SDman explains it very well in a prior post https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/113208-magnum-hydraulics-service-bulletin/

Yes, installed from the outside.

Maynard provided info on this:

No snow in the Grand Island area but 5-6” of rain reported.

Not correct. Original equipment was the 301. There are numbers stamped on a machined pad on the side of the block near the distributor.

The original cap can be removed too fast causing hot gasoline to douse the person removing the cap and possibly get burned. The new cap has an extra tang to prevent fast removal. Since it is a safety issue, the program will never expire.

This is pretty easy to do. The 3088 was only offered as open center. You don’t need a different end plate. The numbers that referred to are identified in the attached parts picture. On part #7, remote valve end plate, disconnect hydraulic line #22. Hook up your inlet hose from your loader valve to the fitting on #7 end plate. Hook up your loader valve return to hydraulic line #22. That is all that needs to be done. One thing that you need to be aware of is that if any foreign matter comes from the loader, it could possibly damage the MCV pump. I have hooked up quite a few like this over the years and haven’t had any problems. Also if you disconnect loader valve from the tractor you absolutely need to hook the pipe back up to end plate as there is constant flow in that circuit