striker782

I have no connection to this item. Very odd for this area. https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/1988InternationalPaystar50005AGrainTruck

Years ago I made two brackets that bolted to the frame rails and would then bolt onto the front cab mount brackets. Rear of cab is supported by the IH cab stands. This allowed us to split the tractor behind the motor and roll out the speed housing and rear housing together. Extra care must be taken to make sure that the front half is stable and secure and can’t move. We have done it this way for quite some time and have had no problems.

Item 24 is an oil seal that keeps oil from going any further out. The outside bearing is greased by the zerk.

Don’t know if the kit is still available. The attached link shows a kit part number 249825A1. If the kit is not available, on the parts picture you will need numbers 6, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22. Quantities needed are shown in the parts description. We installed quite a lot of these and they definitely help. https://avspare.com/catalog/case/54849/63747/1048486/

It had to do with checking the oil level with the engine off. Then running it for a specified time. Then checking it again. The level has to change if things are normal. I just don’t remember the details.

There is a small gear pump located in the bottom of the transmission whose sole purpose is to pump oil from one compartment to the other. If this pump fails, the main pump will cavitate. There is a service bulletin that gives a simple procedure to see if this pump is functioning or not. There is also a strip of foam rubber seal that is glued on to the main pump that keeps the oil in the front compartment. Attached is a parts page showing the foam seal. There is also a special glue used to attach the foam seal. We had several of these small pumps fail on tractors that the county used for mowing ditches. Replacement is difficult. The foam seal is #1 on the first parts page. The small transfer pump is shown on the second page.

More than likely is the dump valve needs adjusted. Back the bolt off a turn or two. If your tell-lite still works, it should go out just before clutch engages.

Suggested list is $276 but can be found cheaper. Just Google in the part number.

I have worked on quite a few of these during my career in the dealership. Often problems were caused by a plugged radiator and condenser. A thorough cleaning would help a lot. However I had a 5088 that drove us crazy. It came in with a compressor failure. Did the normal flushing the system, replaced expansion valve and dryer. Thoroughly cleaned evaporator, condenser, and radiator. Installed a new Sanden compressor. Checked condition of pulleys and belts. Vacuumed system and installed recommended amount of R134. System would cool but couldn’t keep up on a hot humid day. Pressures ran on the high side but not out of range. Both heater hose valves were turned off. HyCapacity makes a kit where you install an auxiliary condenser above the oem one. We installed one on this tractor over ten years ago and system works so much better. High side pressure lowered about 50 psi.

We got hooked on Schitts Creek on CNBC. Absolutely one of the better sitcoms that we have found. We are on streaming so no problem getting it in the US

Not the same. Longer stroke with 466. Rods are the same.

Probably the flex plate in the flywheel has come apart. Split at rear of engine.

Google the two and you can get all the info you want. An attenuator may or may not be pass through. It is intended to soften the hydraulic pulses. An accumulator is intended to be a device that stores hydraulic pressure by using a diaphragm or a piston with pressurized nitrogen behind it. Used to provide a quick charge, such as transmission shifts. On combines and windrowers, accumulators are used mainly for header floatation.

Here ya go!