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striker782

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Everything posted by striker782

  1. Years ago I made two brackets that bolted to the frame rails and would then bolt onto the front cab mount brackets. Rear of cab is supported by the IH cab stands. This allowed us to split the tractor behind the motor and roll out the speed housing and rear housing together. Extra care must be taken to make sure that the front half is stable and secure and can’t move. We have done it this way for quite some time and have had no problems.
  2. Item 24 is an oil seal that keeps oil from going any further out. The outside bearing is greased by the zerk.
  3. Don’t know if the kit is still available. The attached link shows a kit part number 249825A1. If the kit is not available, on the parts picture you will need numbers 6, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22. Quantities needed are shown in the parts description. We installed quite a lot of these and they definitely help. https://avspare.com/catalog/case/54849/63747/1048486/
  4. It had to do with checking the oil level with the engine off. Then running it for a specified time. Then checking it again. The level has to change if things are normal. I just don’t remember the details.
  5. There is a small gear pump located in the bottom of the transmission whose sole purpose is to pump oil from one compartment to the other. If this pump fails, the main pump will cavitate. There is a service bulletin that gives a simple procedure to see if this pump is functioning or not. There is also a strip of foam rubber seal that is glued on to the main pump that keeps the oil in the front compartment. Attached is a parts page showing the foam seal. There is also a special glue used to attach the foam seal. We had several of these small pumps fail on tractors that the county used for mowing ditches. Replacement is difficult. The foam seal is #1 on the first parts page. The small transfer pump is shown on the second page.
  6. More than likely is the dump valve needs adjusted. Back the bolt off a turn or two. If your tell-lite still works, it should go out just before clutch engages.
  7. Suggested list is $276 but can be found cheaper. Just Google in the part number.
  8. I have worked on quite a few of these during my career in the dealership. Often problems were caused by a plugged radiator and condenser. A thorough cleaning would help a lot. However I had a 5088 that drove us crazy. It came in with a compressor failure. Did the normal flushing the system, replaced expansion valve and dryer. Thoroughly cleaned evaporator, condenser, and radiator. Installed a new Sanden compressor. Checked condition of pulleys and belts. Vacuumed system and installed recommended amount of R134. System would cool but couldn’t keep up on a hot humid day. Pressures ran on the high side but not out of range. Both heater hose valves were turned off. HyCapacity makes a kit where you install an auxiliary condenser above the oem one. We installed one on this tractor over ten years ago and system works so much better. High side pressure lowered about 50 psi.
  9. We got hooked on Schitts Creek on CNBC. Absolutely one of the better sitcoms that we have found. We are on streaming so no problem getting it in the US
  10. Not the same. Longer stroke with 466. Rods are the same.
  11. Probably the flex plate in the flywheel has come apart. Split at rear of engine.
  12. Google the two and you can get all the info you want. An attenuator may or may not be pass through. It is intended to soften the hydraulic pulses. An accumulator is intended to be a device that stores hydraulic pressure by using a diaphragm or a piston with pressurized nitrogen behind it. Used to provide a quick charge, such as transmission shifts. On combines and windrowers, accumulators are used mainly for header floatation.
  13. Wouldn’t work very well at night!
  14. Here are mine. Just don’t ride the 2 wheeler much since we got the trike. The red one is an 02 VTX 1800 with 48,000 miles The trike is a 10 Goldwing with a California Side Car conversion installed in 13. It has 32,000 miles on it
  15. He is wanting the detent plate that is riveted on to the end cover of the remote valve. Looks to me like it is not available separate from the end cover. And that part is probably no longer available.
  16. I used a roll pin punch and drove them out. You have to drive them down towards the main bearing bore.
  17. It uses a master cylinder fed by a common reservoir. It is vitally important that only mineral oil has been added to it. If regular brake fluid has been installed you are looking at extensive repairs.
  18. Yes they have a shoulder on them and the bore in the block is stepped. You just drive in the tubes as far as you can.
  19. You have to remove crankshaft and bearings to drive balls out and install cooling tubes. The part number for a 414 tube is 343464R1. The price will scare you. Tube price $102.31 each. I have never installed these tubes in a 300 series block but I think that they would be the same as a 400 series. The 400 series uses 2 tubes for each piston. The 300 series parts also shows 12 balls in the block.
  20. The holes are drilled all the way through and plugged with a steel ball on the 400 series non turbo motor. Just drive out the ball and drive in the tube.
  21. Have been a loyal Pontiac owner for a long time. My wife still has a 2005 GTP. It’s fast but can’t keep up with our 2015 Taurus SHO. It has the 365 hp twin turbo Ecoboost. Both are fun to drive and travel in. GM killing Pontiac resulted in me never owning anything GM ever again.
  22. striker782

    Acre counter

    There is a way to do this. Look for a black electrical connector that has two wires coming out of it and is not connected to anything. It is located above the hydraulic pump if I remember correctly. I used a mercury switch mounted to the rockshaft. I got the switch from Sunco Marketing in North Platte NE. They use it on their guidance hitches to center them when raised. When the capsule has the wires pointed down, the mercury will complete the circuit. When capsule has wires pointed up, there is an open circuit.
  23. A couple of my friends and myself fixed up a 1936 CC for antique pulling. We pulled the head and machined .125” off of it and went from the stock sandwich style head gasket to a shim type thin gasket. That really woke up the old girl! Just had to pull it to start it as it was too hard to crank by hand. We quit antique pulling after we built a 3688 pro stock. It’s a long way between low gear and road gear! We still have the CC tucked away in a shed.
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