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striker782

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Everything posted by striker782

  1. To lock a valve on, remove the small cap on the front of the valve. Take a straight bladed screwdriver and going through the access hole where the cap was, find and turn the threaded plug clockwise several turns. This will keep the valve locked on. You are not changing the hydraulic pressure, only setting detent kickoff higher.
  2. This is the tire my ‘15 Taurus SHO came with. Michelin Primacy MXM4. I really like them. They are an all season tire.
  3. Don’t have to change any parts. Installation is fairly simple. We installed some of these at the dealership I used to work at. Just have to pay attention to the width that you want the arms to be and make adjustments to fit
  4. It needs to be turned around. When installed correctly the spindles will be several degrees to the rear of vertical. This helps stabilize the steering at the straight ahead position.
  5. Yes you can do that but I would highly recommend to check the pressure with a gauge to make sure that the pressure is not too high.
  6. There isn’t any way to adjust the pressure. You will have to get a higher pressure relief valve. PSI is stamped on the end of the valve.
  7. striker782

    Frame width

    Frame width is the same
  8. The later build 282/301 had larger ports.
  9. I suspect that you have something hanging up in the range shift park lock detent assembly #29 in the parts breakdown below.
  10. Here is a link to an older thread addressing the gasket issue. The gasket with the zig zag channel for the lube passage is used on the later serial number tractors. If the gasket is used on the earlier tractor you will have an internal leak in the lube pressure circuit where the gasket is supposed to seal around the end of the reverse idler shaft. This would cause a loss of lube to ring gear and pinion. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/110315-86-series-split-gasket-mystery/
  11. Have to have hydraulic pressure for TA to do what you want. Take the inspection plate off on right side of TA housing where flywheel is located. Use a bar with a flat end on it and pry on the flywheel ring gear. You have good leverage there.
  12. No it is not a tapered roller bearing. The parts description for #18 is shown in attached drawing. The roller bearing was a running change from the factory to improve drive train reliability. There was a service bulletin issued advising that the ball bearings be replaced by the roller bearings anytime you were there for repair. I did have one customer with a 1586 that had the ball bearing fail on the RH side.
  13. The roller bearings are located on the outboard end of the differential output shafts #9 on the attached diagram. The inner race #3, is 67406C1. The roller bearing #18, is 67254C91
  14. The rubber plug goes in the groove in the housing where the reverse idler shaft locating dowel pin is located. It needs to be installed to prevent a lube pressure leak. Be sure and use the correct housing gasket. After you look at the correct gasket you will see why the plug is needed.
  15. He has received thousands of cards already! http://www.newschannel6now.com/2019/02/25/gi-joe-receives-thousands-cards-gifts-following-viral-post/
  16. Did you blow air through the orifice? Rather unusual but make sure ball cage has not loosened up or any debris between the ball and seat.
  17. Refer to attached parts breakdown. The piston is 35. Body 37 is held in with snap ring 41. You will not have 18 and 38. Snap ring can be difficult to remove as sometimes the ends will break off.
  18. Unloading piston is sticking. It has a small orifice in it that is either plugged or piston is sticking. Located in right hand seat support.
  19. Gosh, that goes back! Date shows November 2007.
  20. The mechanical tach did not use the pressure switch. The first gen electronic tach did. The second gen tach with the touch keypad did not.
  21. Charlies right. The 9s and below used a ball bearing on the rear. The 10s and up used a roller bearing on the rear. All used a roller needle bearing on the front.
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