Reichow7120 Posted July 4 Posted July 4 10 minutes ago, supermechanic said: Autolite 386 work also. If the parts man only has ngk's, run them. Difference between brands is not as important as the difference between carbon fouled and new. Still able to get Autolites? Parent company going broke and the mess that's going on with First Brands. Autolites are getting hard to come by in general 1 Quote
hardknocks Posted July 4 Author Posted July 4 here is a link hope i did it correctluy https://m.youtube.com/shorts/zpMf1LtkQOY https://m.youtube.com/shorts/z5cbqdW_ZNc Quote
mrfred54 Posted July 4 Posted July 4 You probably have a head gasket that is leaking between #5&6. Will not show up with compression test but under load and plug firing it’s loosing compression. Bet if you pull the head the gasket will be black between 5&6 . Head will need resurfacing. Far as changing plugs and brands, these engines came from factory with champion D15Y and that’s all i have used for 60 years of working on these tractors and have great success with them. Just my thoughts…. You have done everything possible, good luck. On another note, why did you change carburetors?? 1 Quote
supermechanic Posted July 4 Posted July 4 1 hour ago, Reichow7120 said: Still able to get Autolites? Parent company going broke and the mess that's going on with First Brands. Autolites are getting hard to come by in general My NAPA has shelves full of Autolite. Quote
HydroTek Posted July 4 Posted July 4 "Video unavailable" -- set to public so we can see Head gasket is fine -- or the compression check would show low on those cylinders -- really only need 90 psi on a gasser to fire the cylinder power would be low , but it would run FYI: you can heat fouled plugs with a torch and get them to fire again just get the end to red with a torch That carb have a high speed fuel adjustment on it ? Quote
Reichow7120 Posted July 4 Posted July 4 34 minutes ago, supermechanic said: My NAPA has shelves full of Autolite. Nice. Just curious. Around here they are hard to come by. The 2 NAPA stores close around here closed a few years ago. One closed in late 2021. The one we used in May of 2023. Miss that one. Owner was in his late 60s. As we all know getting good help is hard, so no down time for him. No one wanted it to pass it to his kids so he closed it. So any NAPA for us is a haul now. So we're stuck with Auto Value, Autozone, or sigh. O'Reilly's. Can't stand O'Reilly's. Quote
Gearclash Posted July 4 Posted July 4 2 hours ago, supermechanic said: Autolite 386 work also. If the parts man only has ngk's, run them. Difference between brands is not as important as the difference between carbon fouled and new. My thought -- if the OP has too cold a plug now the 386s will be a disappointment. I would recommend the 388 instead. Personal experience. 1 Quote
HydroTek Posted July 4 Posted July 4 The D15Y -- the Y designation is for extended tip those engine did not like short tip plugs Brand does not matter so much as getting a comparable heat range and tip Tho any plug should fire when first put in the engine if it is still running bad with fresh plugs the problem is elsewhere Weak spark crossfire in the cap or rotor correct coil ?? resistor or not ?? -- ya know there are only 6 volt and 12 volt coils -- and depending on if there is a resistor used -- is how the system in wired -- this tractor would have used a 6 volt coil and a resistor -- information printed on the coil is misleading in the wording Seen a few over the years that have sparked thru the rotor to the distributor shaft Quote
Board Shortener Tom Posted July 4 Posted July 4 6 hours ago, ny hay farmer said: how about a birds nest on intake side of air filter, happened on a 1086 to me is the advance working in the distributor, dont forget to goto parts store and get some lead substitute and put in gas I had this problem in the wife's cub. It turned out the weights were corroded and gritty causing them to stick and not function correctly. My suggestion is to remove the distributor and take it apart to give everything inside a good cleaning and inspection. Quote
Board Shortener Tom Posted July 4 Posted July 4 2 minutes ago, Board Shortener Tom said: I had this problem in the wife's cub. It turned out the weights were corroded and gritty causing them to stick and not function correctly. My suggestion is to remove the distributor and take it apart to give everything inside a good cleaning and inspection. Also check the air cleaner inlet tube and the oil bath. Her Cub had a bit of buildup in the downpipe that caused it to not pull in quite as much air. Her plugs looked just like yours before I started working on it. I did the coil, pertronix ignition, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, set the timing right, completely cleaned the distributor and adjusted the valve lash. I took the carb apart but found nothing wrong in there. I had rebuilt it a couple years prior. Anyhow, it runs really well now. Quote
hardknocks Posted July 4 Author Posted July 4 I'm no good at you tube but i will try to change it. ive got new plugs NGK 2910. that's all they had available. the carburetor is a new OEM Zenith 14996. 1 hour ago, HydroTek said: "Video unavailable" -- set to public so we can see Head gasket is fine -- or the compression check would show low on those cylinders -- really only need 90 psi on a gasser to fire the cylinder power would be low , but it would run FYI: you can heat fouled plugs with a torch and get them to fire again just get the end to red with a torch That carb have a high speed fuel adjustment on it ? here is a link hope i did it correctluy https://m.youtube.com/shorts/zpMf1LtkQOY https://m.youtube.com/shorts/z5cbqdW_ZNc Quote
hardknocks Posted July 4 Author Posted July 4 Ih 666 running 666 ih misfire try these 2 . i have no clue what im doing on you tube 1 Quote
HydroTek Posted July 4 Posted July 4 Have air in the hydraulics also When you hold the plug wire where it sparks to the plug -- it seems to run better than when the wire is actually on the plug High speed fuel screw -- with the engine running fast -- turn that screw in until the engine starts to slow a little -- then back out 1/2 turn Valves need adjusted -- there is a whole lot of clattering there possible that a couple are not fully opening 1 Quote
supermechanic Posted July 4 Posted July 4 6 minutes ago, HydroTek said: When you hold the plug wire where it sparks to the plug -- it seems to run better than when the wire is actually on the plug Should this be the case, dwell needs to be increased. Close down the gap at the points by a few thousandths. The longer the points are open, the shorter the dwell time. Opening a secondary spark gap raises the impressed secondary voltage by increasing the ionization threshold (effectively increasing dwell). That is how the "Atomic Spark Intensifier" works. These items were sold on the back pages of Mechanix Illustrated and in the JC Whitney catalogs. Quote
hardknocks Posted July 4 Author Posted July 4 i put new NGK 2910 and adjusted main jet and idle adjust needle. and seems to run great. after all the headache i have had and all the diagnoses ive done. now it finally sounds good. I feel like it needed the new carb. the main jet was always loose in old carb when i pulled the pipe plug out of bowl. yes i have put both pumps in tractor and i seem not to be able to get the cavitation quiet down. i even overfill the hytran. ive even checked the tube in the rearend foe cracks. unless i over looked a crack. i appreciate all comments and suggestions. its always nice to have helpful people. hope it stays running as good as it does now.. randy Quote
supermechanic Posted July 4 Posted July 4 Glad it works . This was a fun experience, doing troubleshooting in real-time . Quote
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