hardknocks

there are two studs that hold the heater box on firewall nuts are in engine compartment remove the heater tube bolted to bracket under steering wheel and heater box will come down

yes positive

It's temporary. But the guy painting all sheet metal is gone on his month vacation. And he hasn't started on it yet. No gauges or switches. Just key switch I went to parts store and bought a busjbutton to start it and wired it to starter with alligator clips

have a 1466 i have all the wiring completely off. gauges are all off, all sheet metal off. haveit all sent to paint shop. but i need to use trator set hay out and load hay. I wired alrenator up but it wont charge. here is how i did it. on alternator #1 terminal goes to key switch then key switch too battery. #2 terminal jumped to the big post. Wire coming off big post going to starter battery terminal. cant get it to charge. what am i missing

Started pouring antifreeze in floorboard of truck. And now I’m trying to figure out how to drop heater down to see what’s leaking. I’ve taken the batter box off and can’t find any bolts holding it on to firewall. The bolts that hold the battery box goes above it and below it. I can see looks like sheetmetal screws on left side when you look through fan hole. But the heads seem to be on firewall in engine compartment. But there is no heads to remove them. How does this come down

Started pouring antifreeze in floorboard of truck. And now I’m trying to figure out how to drop heater down to see what’s leaking. I’ve taken the batter box off and can’t find any bolts holding it on to firewall. The bolts that hold the battery box goes above it and below it. I can see looks like sheetmetal screws on left side when you look through fan hole. But the heads seem to be on firewall in engine compartment. But there is no heads to remove them. How does this come down

i doint have no problem holding t-bolt in its the very back vane of transision cone i cant reach to put nut on my arm is not smalll enough to go by the braces. and im a skinny person. actually when i took the old Vanes off it was welded where i cant reach the nut on top

Intalling new rotor vanes in my 1688 from A&I how are you supose to get to the nuts on top to tighnen them. the ones right under the cab. It looks like a acess door under the cab. and the get to that by taking the seat out and floor board under the seat. Is this correct?

thank you

do you have the measuremnet for the flywheel . wanting to see if maybe it has been resurfaced to much i havent put a depth gauge on it but it looks like it is about .005 step left from the un cut service . what is a new flywheel measurment

i talked to the manufacture of my pressure plate. which it is a brand new pressure plate (NOT REBUILT) they make them to OEM specs you basically have to use there clutch disk because it is .460 thick. they told me that when a pressure plate is rebuilt that the clutch disk has to be thicker to make up the diffrence from what they turned off the pressure plate. all i did was replace my pressure plate and not the clutch disk from the manufacture of the pressure plate. so apparantly i had a rebuilt clutch assembly in there iniitally. my clutch disk was perfect.i decided to reuse it. so when i measured my clutch disk it measured .497 so that make my disk .037 thicker. the manufacture of my new pressure plate was saying ..since i used my old clutch disk it is to thick for my new pressure plate from them and it wont let it release. its only .037 thicker but the fingers are a 3 to 1 ratio so that makes the travel of .111 ..close to 1/8" further travel. i hope that clears it up.

just found out that the pressure plate manufacture clutch disk is .460 and the clutch disk i have is .497 so that should be my difference the fingers are a 3-1 ratio so that should give me the clearance

a local shop replaced clutch in my 1086 well it wore the fingers out in less than year of use. I believe he had it adjusted so the trow out bearing was turning alll the time. have a 1086 done split it twice cant get enough travel to release clutch unless throw out bearing is turning 100% of the time. if you adjust throw out bearing where it doesnt turn it will not release clutch and cant get it in gear. here is what ive done 1 replace pressure plate cause fingers was gone 2 clutch disk was like new no wear. measeured .495 3 replaced throw out bearing sleeve 4 replaced clutch release fork 5 replaced clutch release shaft 6 replaced booster output rod and clevis 7 adjusted booster top rod 8 adjusted output rod so bell crank be 90 degrees 9 adjusted T/A and dump valve put dial indicator on throwout bearing and had .497 of travel flyweel step is in spec fingers adjusted to 5/8" the only thing i can come up with is the new pressure plate is not made correctly. reason i say that is ,this is the 3rd clutch kit i have bought from this company and all had issues similialer could it be a problem not replacing clutch and pressure plate from same company?. i just replaced pressure plate only.

heres a few old brochures and magazines i came across in attic today i forgot about having

here is where we put up a new chief bin in 1977. just replaced the fan motor this fall and i paid basically the same price for the motor today as in 1977. but the bin price is cheap it is a 7700 bu bin