1026 or 1256 or 1456

[ComancheStarFarms]

1970 1026 - first summer using it so there’s a fair amount of ignorance on my part.  In this case I think this is just a 56 hydraulic remote issue.  This tractor has a single remote & as usual it’s on the backside between the dual PTO unit & the driver’s seat.  Throw the hydraulic lever forward & it seems as if that is the neutral position - no obvious pressure anywhere.  Pull the handle up & it passes through a detent in what I expect to be a neutral position - strong PSI comes out one of the couplers.  Pull the handle all the way back & it has weak PSI - almost neutral like.  What am I doing wrong or what is wrong with the hydraulic system?  Thanks - Jonathan 

[HydroTek]

4 positions on that valve
Neutral -- lever springs each direction
Raise -- detents with the lever rearward
Lower -- detents with the lever forward from Neutral
Float -- detents with the lever all the way forward
Raise and lower -- will use pressure to release the detent , and allow the lever back to Neutral

With the engine off -- you should be able to position the lever in each detent 

[ComancheStarFarms]

What you explain is what our 966 does - since we bought that tractor a dozen years ago.  Works great.  The 1026 does not.  
 

Throw handle forward nothing,

Pull up into “neutral” and strong PSI out of 1 coupler,

Pull handle fully up & weak PSI.

What might be misaligned or out of adjustment?

[snoshoe]

35 minutes ago, ComancheStarFarms said:

What you explain is what our 966 does - since we bought that tractor a dozen years ago.  Works great.  The 1026 does not.  
 

Throw handle forward nothing,

Pull up into “neutral” and strong PSI out of 1 coupler,

Pull handle fully up & weak PSI.

What might be misaligned or out of adjustment?

You're not telling us what we need to know. Throw handle forward and nothing. If it detents there it sounds like float. Next position up with full pressure on top coupler would be lower. Would detent there with engine not running. Nothing said about spring centered neutral.  Weak all the way back says spool not making full travel. Probably does not latch. Check pin that pins short lever to control shaft under seat. Also pin and block that connects that lever to valve. Maybe just crap between that and valve. Not letting spool to enter valve far enough.

[HydroTek]

Detent may have backed out of the valve spool -- if you can not find the 4 positions with the engine off 

[HydroTek]

31 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

You're not telling us what we need to know. Throw handle forward and nothing. If it detents there it sounds like float. Next position up with full pressure on top coupler would be lower. Would detent there with engine not running. Nothing said about spring centered neutral.  Weak all the way back says spool not making full travel. Probably does not latch. Check pin that pins short lever to control shaft under seat. Also pin and block that connects that lever to valve. Maybe just crap between that and valve. Not letting spool to enter valve far enough.

Seen hitch pins under that valve cover -- gloves -- rake teeth -- all manner of junk

Need to remove the cover at the front of the valve and inspect 

[snoshoe]

8 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

Detent may have backed out of the valve spool -- if you can not find the 4 positions with the engine off 

Thought of that but would expect oil coming out back of valve.

[ComancheStarFarms]

Good help by you two!  Now how about nomenclature - which part is the valve, spool, cover, (others?)?  I posted a picture that I think displays two hydraulic couplings on the left, a hex headed “pipe” and two ports plugged by indented caps.  Which one do I dig into first?

I’ll try the tractor in the morning with engine off & report back to you.  I appreciate the help!

[snoshoe]

The hex headed pipe is the tail end of the valve. The cover is apiece of tin on the front side under the seat hiding the handle connections to the valve. The spool is the shaft that sticks out the front of valve that linkage connects to. Think you should start under that cover.

[ComancheStarFarms]

Ok - will do - thanks a bunch!

[Matt Kirsch]

FEEL is as important as anything. You can't FEEL anything if you're "throwing" things. Move the levers slowly but deliberately. The system is identical from your 1026 to your 966. Does the 1026 FEEL the same as the 966? I bet it doesn't. The 1026 no doubt doesn't feel as solid, I'm sure. Significantly "floppier" and more free play in the lever. That's wear in the linkage, and the wear is most likely affecting how far the valve can go into the raise/back position.

There is a metal cover over the base of the seat area. Behind your feet as you sit on the seat. Remove that cover, and it exposes the linkages. It's not as complicated as you think, once you see it. 

[Alan Dinan]

If you’re having that much trouble with it, I’ll take it off your hands!!! lol 

[7and8and1456]

Operators manual is very informative on the subject 

[ComancheStarFarms]

Just a quick update for today - but have not removed cover under seat behind driver’s heels yet.

With engine off there seems to be only two lever positions - forward & back.  Not sure if forward is actually forward or just an indefinite neutral.  With engine running there seems to be 3 lever positions - once again forward equals no PSI, middle position (which on all our other tractors is neutral with no PSI)  strong PSI & fully up (or back) and weak PSI.

 

I’ll dig around under seat tomorrow.  
 

Thanks to all - including taking the tractor off my hands!

[snoshoe]

Again no mention of detent or spring action. How far does the lever travel compared to the other tractors? Shorter travel would mean junk or crap under that cover or trouble in the detent. Same or longer travel would indicate lost motion under the cover. Roll pin broken or clevis pin falling out or worn parts. Without any idea of travel. My present guess is that your present positions are float, lower and almost neutral but still lower.

[ComancheStarFarms]

Snoshoe -
The lever travel is the same as the other tractors but performs abnormal functions.  The handle is always in the down position unless it is pulled up.  And when pulling up there is a clear middle position & clear up position.  However as soon as the lever is released it returns to the full down position.  Tomorrow I’ll look into what’s happening under the cover. Appreciate your thoroughness.

7&8&1456 - 

The owners text will be a big help.

[HydroTek]

That bracket holding the remote couplers looks home made
also the top link cover

... been converted from a 2 point hitch ?

[ComancheStarFarms]

I did not get to our 1026 today so I don’t have an update on the hydraulic lever positioning.  Hitting hay time is my feeble excuse.  HydroTek is observant - the top link plate looks homemade.  I noticed that when I bought it.  Previously owner was selling the tractor for his late father & didn’t know anything about it.  The rest of the 3-point hitch looks factory - for whatever thats worth.

[Matt Kirsch]

Using factory parts is the easiest way to convert a fast hitch tractor to 3 point. No jerry-rigging needed. Everything bolts right on.

Of course the top link bracket could have been broken and replaced by a shop-fabricated model... it's not a bad looking bracket.

[ComancheStarFarms]

Seat & cover plate removed.  Nothing amiss visually.  Started tractor (IH1026) & raised the single hydraulic lever - no response, no felt pressure & no sound.  Placed lever in neutral & the tractor sounded as if the hydraulics were being activated - just as on our 966 when the lever is up or down.  Placed lever in the lower position & once again no response, sound, pressure - just dead.  On top of that regardless of position of the lever no remote implement movement - as if zero fluid was activated.  When the lever is released it stays it whatever position it was placed in - no return to neutral.  Pic 1 shows handle raised & piston in, Pic 2 is neutral & piston is out about 3/8” & Pic 3 is lowered and piston out about 5/8”.  Any further ideas where to start?  

[snoshoe]

In pic one. What is stopping lever from moving further? Is the spool bottomed or is the lever hitting something?

[Farming Enthusiast]

Did the 1026 have DB or DC pump

[snoshoe]

39 minutes ago, Farming Enthusiast said:

Did the 1026 have DB or DC pump

DB

[ComancheStarFarms]

3 hours ago, snoshoe said:

In pic one. What is stopping lever from moving further? Is the spool bottomed or is the lever hitting something?

It seems as if it is the normal throw or distance of the piston - in Pic 1, with handle raised, I don’t think the piston can go any further into the housing.

[snoshoe]

Next step. Remove pin and block from spool. Then remove spool and detent assy from rear. Disassemble and find out why.