5288 remotes quit

[nate]

Dad was baling today and the remotes quit on him.  Have not looked at it yet. He also said 3 point did not work.   Can anyone point me where to start?

Thanks

[HydroTek]

Check the signal line elbow for a ball (use a bucket to catch), where the signal line connects to the compensator -- the signal check ball can blow out of the remote valve and migrate down the signal line, where it will stop at the elbow -- and act as a check for the oil -- use a second wrench to support the elbow, the threads are easy to break off .

You can remove the ball, but will have one of the remotes that does not work correctly -- there is a small "star" retainer that holds the ball in the remote valve port -- dang thing pops out and cause all this

[snoshoe]

Motor valve will no longer have priority is all.

[nate]

Thanks guys.   Will see if my brother can check it out, or I’ll did into it when I get back from redpower roundup.  

[Drysleeves]

20 hours ago, snoshoe said:

Motor valve will no longer have priority is all.

Not necessarily a bad thing….

[nate]

Brother hooked up flow meter..  only showed 5gpm.  Turned the dial to put on load and went to nothing.   He pulled valve stack, star retainer still there….  Pump or????

[snoshoe]

2 hours ago, nate said:

Brother hooked up flow meter..  only showed 5gpm.  Turned the dial to put on load and went to nothing.   He pulled valve stack, star retainer still there….  Pump or????

At what pressure? Still think signal not getting to compensator.

[88power]

had one do this last fall,was a first for us, manyard gave me the part number for the rebuild kit for the check valve took it apart and like was said above the retainer had popped out but the ball was still in place now that i read this i guess what was keeping it there was a piece of rubber around the size of the ball in there 

[nate]

15 hours ago, snoshoe said:

At what pressure? Still think signal not getting to compensator.

Brother said it was around a 100 psi

[snoshoe]

2 minutes ago, nate said:

Brother said it was around a 100 psi

OK Not even standby. Makes pump and compensator suspect. Would check filters and charge pressure before diving in. Also should check standby at the pump.

[nate]

On 6/18/2023 at 12:47 PM, snoshoe said:

OK Not even standby. Makes pump and compensator suspect. Would check filters and charge pressure before diving in. Also should check standby at the pump.

Filters were done about 100 hours ago.   We put a new set in it now for piece of mind.  We also capped off line to rear of hitch to rule that out.   Hooked up gauge to T fitting on pump and only had 200 psi.   What else can we check?   Don’t don’t want to buy an expensive pump if it doesn’t fix it.  

[snoshoe]

Can't remember all of the specs for sure. Think that is still to low. Verify charge pressure. Thinking around 30psi. If there problem is going to be pump or compensator. If not there relief is in filter housing. Lube pump supplies the oil. 

[HydroTek]

I would test the pump independently of the tractor -- remove the big line and connect your flow meter to the pump, return oil to the fill port -- remove the signal line at the compensator and plug the tractor side -- close the valve on the flow meter to check low pressure standby -- looking for 390-410

Connect a fitting to the pump outlet cap, and run that to the compensator -- this will put the pump on high pressure standby -- set the compensator to 2500 psi or whatever you want

Open the valve on the flow meter and see if the pump can make flow at idle @ 1000 psi -- then check for rated at 2000 RPM

[SDman]

Like snoshoe says....make sure you have charge pressure before you dig into the PPH pump. Your picture shows the PPH pump. If you look on the other side of the pump drive, you will see 2 hydraulic pumps in a piggyback fashion. The one closest to the pump drive should have a "T" fitting on top of the pump with a cap facing the outside of the tractor....that's not the one we are concerned about for now. The rear pump will have a "T" fitting with lines on both sides of it.....the outside line should go down to the front filter housing to charge the front filter housing to charge the piston pump. Remove that steel line from the "T" on the top of the pump, have someone in the cab crank the engine over with the throttle lever in shutoff position while somebody watches for oil flow at the "T" fitting. Even just cranking, there should be a pretty good amount of flow coming out of the open "T" fitting....its a 26GPM pump so there should be noticeable flow even at cranking speed. If there is no flow, maybe the drive coupling between the 2 pumps has sheared. On the classic Magnums, have seen the rear gear pump not turn while the front gear pump runs just fine. 

[nate]

Well.. we found this in the compensator valve today.   Got it put together and all is well.  How did it get there? Shouldn’t the oil be filtered??   Looked like a small piece of blue shop towel maybe?  Thanks for everyone’s help!   

[acem]

Is this the tractor you just rebuilt?

[nate]

35 minutes ago, acem said:

Is this the tractor you just rebuilt?

No,  this is dads 5288 AWD

[acem]

I just thought it might be something that got in a line while it was off. 

Can oil that returns from an implement get into the compensator line?

[Aaron Bodin]

Question for Hydrotek.  As far as setting the compensator, I have the flow meter in the 3rd remote, flow control on high and I’ve got it set to 1800psi at 25gpm by adjusting the high pressure spool.  Do I need to set the flow one also if I’m getting 25gpm?

[HydroTek]

Where did you find instruction to set a compensator like that ?

You sure of which spool is which ?

The high pressure adjustment sets the max pressure -- nothing more -- looking for 2800 psi

[Aaron Bodin]

That’s what it says in the book with max pressure at 2800. It doesn’t say anything else about any other compensator adjustments. How should I be doing it?

[snoshoe]

12 hours ago, Aaron Bodin said:

That’s what it says in the book with max pressure at 2800. It doesn’t say anything else about any other compensator adjustments. How should I be doing it?

The only thing you're adjusting there is the flow rater. You're checking pump condition. Procedure to adjust compensator is a little different. 

[HydroTek]

Depends on if you messed with the compensator adjustments -- don't want to blow the lines off the tractor -- I have seen this happen

Tractors that used the "dynamic load sensing" used a different procedure , according to the book (orifice setup in the steering motor)-- but all load/flow sensing pumps can be set using the procedure below

So, remove the signal line from the compensator -- plug the line
leave the fitting on the compensator open

Use a gauge with a valve in a remote -- or better yet put the gauge at the pump outlet (cap the line) -- the valve (close the valve) protects the 600 psi gauge from a spike that can happen when you start the tractor
Set the flow control spool in the compensator (closest to the pump) so your gauge reads 390-410 psi

Reconnect the compensator line and using a 3000 psi gauge , set the pressure to 2800 psi -- by turning the compensator spool farthest from the pump

[HydroTek]

Here is a diagram 

[Aaron Bodin]

Got it set. Thanks!