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Everything posted by SDman

  1. Pat, you can test to see if the gear pump is turning by checking the fuel pressure at the front fuel filter, which is after the gear pump that is driven by the lug on the front side of it. You should see better than 10 psi while cranking if the gear pump is turning/doing its job. As far as repair, you might want to see what is available in the parts system presently with all the supply chain problems everyone is having right now. The gear pump is a separate part of the pump, but its hard to say whether its available separately at the present time.
  2. Fault code 12188? Lol....never heard of her. You get to deal with the EPL...Electronic Park Lock....its a little gizmo behind the rear of the cab that has a cable about 6' long mounted to it that goes down to the park brake actuator on the side of the transmission. That EPL watches the travel of that cable as it is engaged/released over time. If the travel distance engages too far, you get the fault code indicating the brake pads are worn out. You can usually adjust the pads once...maybe twice, but then they will need to be replaced. We probably do a park brake job once a month on those tractors. One more thing about that EPL and park brake wear(and this probably applies to us in Northern climates more so)....that EPL is VERY sensitive to low voltage. If you have somebody who is too cheap to replace a $2-300 battery because its getting weak....they may get to pay for a $2-3000 brake job instead. When the EPL is subjected to low voltage, it tends to lose its memory. Now, usually when this happens, you will get a fault code of 12144, which means the EPL needs reinitialized...which means it goes through a procedure to learn its cable travel again. However, we've had more than one tractor seemingly ruin park brake pads after a reinitialization procedure...so be careful when doing this. Our tech that likes doing these doesn't generally use the comb, but most of us in the shop do use it. Like he says, the park brakes on these are a much easier job than on the old Maxxums that required splitting the tractor to fix the park brake.
  3. We didn't start ordering Axial-Flows with AHHC until 2300 series, nobody used AHHC around here until then....no soybeans, no flexheads. AHHC wasn't even standard on machines until 99-2000 model 23s. Accumulators around here were pretty common on 1460s and newer/bigger combines. We generally run bigger heads out here than in the corn belt. Guys wanted accumulators to take the "bounce" out of a big header/feeder house if you got going at a faster speed. FWIW, the accumulator on a 2100 series AF is utilized at only one time....when the header is all the way up. There's a whisker switch on the LH side of the feeder that turns the solenoid for the accumulator off/on when the feeder is all the way up. Lot of complaints about that....so the 23xx series put the on/off control under the armrest cover and then you could adjust the accumulator right outside the door. FWIW, I can remember selling 6 new 2388s when they first came out to an operation about 2 hours west of here. No rock traps...standard rotors...no choppers on all their machines. Probably saved them well over $100K at that time by ordering them that way. All they ever did with them was wheat and sunflowers...and West River in SD means NO rocks...so they ordered their machines accordingly. A dealer about an hour NW of here sold several early Flagship combines(8010s/8120s) with no variable-speed feeder houses. All they were going to do was run MacDon heads...so the variable-speed feeders are locked out on them anyway. They actually did run corn heads with them.....they were just like an older Axial-Flow where you had to change sprockets on the corn head if you needed to chnge header speeds.
  4. Unfortunately, this is where people find out the sad truth about the HPCR pumps on those engines.....they were based off of the worst injection pump in the world....our old friend the CAPS pump. Like the CAPS pump....there are sections of that pump. Like the CAPS pump.....there are drive lugs between the sections of that pump. Like the CAPS pump....those drive lugs will break, causing the back section of the pump not to turn, so the pumping plungers in the front section of the pump have no charge pressure so they won't build rail pressure. More than likely the drive lug shown on #4 is sheared off. If you have INSITE, you will see the electric fuel pump build rail pressure. When you crank the engine, you will not build any rail pressure.
  5. 2 lift cylinders on the feeder house, or 3?
  6. 22/2400 series CaseIH corn heads were New Holland-based. CaseIH put knife rolls on them(New Holland’s were fluted rolls), and the row unit gearboxes were overloaded due to the aggressiveness of the knife rolls. The front of the stalk rolls had no support, so that added to the problem. Many red guys didn’t care for them. The 32/3400 series had the front bearings on the stalk rolls like the old IH heads, although many guys complain about the excessive butt shelling on these heads, that’s probably the #1 complaint about them. Unfortunately for CNH, many red dealers took on other product lines for corn heads when CaseIH went through all the problems with their own corn heads over the last 20 years…Gehringhoff, Capello, Drago, HarvestTech and a few others have become popular heads for CaseIH dealers to sell.
  7. There really isn’t any “hydraulic pressure light” on the instrumentation for a 2388. There’s a light for low hydraulic oil level in the reservoir and another warning light for high hydraulic oil temperature, but nothing for hydraulic pressure of any kind. Might want to double check what warning light is coming on for sure.
  8. On a 1688, the AHHC won’t function unless you are sitting in the seat with the separator and feeder switches engaged. It was incorporated into the operator presence/seat switch circuit on 44/66/88s.
  9. This remote doesn’t have what they called an “alternating check valve”, does it? It looks like a square block located in the hydraulic tubes between the remote valve and the coupler body…it’s supposed to prevent implement settling. Depending on how they fail, it can affect both raise & lower, or can just affect one direction.
  10. Everybody else has given you good advice…I’ll add one more area that’s often overlooked on these. Your machine should have the big black plastic air chute between the rotary screen and the engine air filter housing. Check to make sure the seal between that chute and the radiator air box is in good condition. Many of them anymore have a leaky seal and/or a warped air chute so that the air chute is sucking dirty air outside the air box instead of sucking air from the air box itself. Instead of that seal/gasket they used, I use an industrial caulk to seal that area anymore…it handles bigger gaps in that area than the gasket ever did.
  11. Those are what they call “stratatubes”. As the dirty air enters them, it is spun in a circular motion…centrifugal force forces the heavier dirt to the outside of the tubes…where the vacuum from the aspirator from the exhaust pipe should carry it away to the exhaust. As far as testing the venturi in the aspirator/exhaust pipe…an easy way to test it is to remove the hose right at the exhaust pipe…now run the engine at full throttle. Grab a handful of floor dry, sand, fine dirt, etc…hold it up to the hose fitting on the exhaust pipe…if it’s working properly, it should remove the material from your hand like an average vacuum cleaner. If it doesn’t, replace the exhaust pipe.
  12. Yessir. Not sure if it’s a good # anymore.
  13. Here’s the list of parts for doing that upgrade and things to be careful of when doing that update. Did a couple of these many years ago and ran into some problems but I don’t remember the particulars anymore.
  14. Look at the pulley in this picture…the hydro pump fits into the splines in the middle of it. Take the 3 bolts in the pulley/hub loose, get a big bar and slide the pulley/hub towards the hydro pump. You will have a gap big enough to get the belt in/out of there. Also, since it’s a double-v belt, do yourself a favor and remove the RPM sensor at the bottom of the housing…it’ll give you a little more room to work the new belt around the pulley.
  15. Take the RH cab side panel off the combine and look in the area under the hydro handle; you will see a harness that goes up to the hydro lever. Check the connection of the header switch/cab harness, it’s not uncommon for them to slightly pull apart as you move the hydro handle ahead in forward direction.
  16. Back when we sold a lot of 1020s for beans, several of them were equipped with an air reel of some sort. Guys that had them wouldn't run one without an air reel. After we sold MacDons instead, we hardly ever sold an air reel system. Guys just feel the reel/sickle proximity is better on a draper head...and you also don't have the reel beating the cut crop back into the auger on a draper head like you do an auger head. Now, this year we did put air reels on a couple 45' MacDons for customers due to the fact we do have some real short beans around here. The bad thing about air reels on bigger heads is that there is some extra weight out in front of the header....can make it difficult for the combine to pickup the header with that extra weight so far forward of the combine/header. One of our salesman was talking to one of our MacDon customers that have 2 new heads on Deere combines. They installed air reels on them before harvest this fall. With both machines running in the same field, they shut off the air reel system on one machine just to compare with/without an air reel. The yield monitor on the machine with the air reel shut off was consistently 1-2bpa less than the machine with the air reel still running. They felt the air reels would pay for themselves pretty quickly in this year's beans.
  17. FWIW, the red Case MFD tractors just after the merger(33/3594s) had no provision to shut the MFD off other than removing the driveshaft. Other than known for eating up MFD tires a little quicker than other makes, I never seen too many other problems with them due to the fact that you could not shut off the MFD.
  18. Dale, I think you are right on the early 15s. In my 1979 IH Buyer's Guide, it points out that the 1586 is the first tractor offered in the US with radial tires as standard equipment...but that was "new" for 1979.
  19. With all due respect, you are comparing apples to oranges. Yes, the Magnum powershift clutch packs are smaller...always have been. They should never slip. The big difference is the mid-mounted Master Clutch in the STS/Magnum powershift that acts as the "shock absorber" or "torque limiter". He is designed to slip before the smaller powershift clutches ever should, and he is also the last clutch to ever lock up fully in the transmission. Otherwise, its still more or less the same transmission setup from Day 1 of the Magnums with minor changes through the years. FWIW, those powershift clutches are the ones that get burnt up when somebody installs one of those shift plates from Hy-Cap or Abilene Machine in a classic Magnum and doesn't use the clutch pedal when changing directions. You are using the powershift clutches to do the job of the Master Clutch....something they were never designed to do...and won't last long doing it. As far as the overall design, the limit to the old IH STS transmission design in the Magnums was the 340HP model in both Tier IVa and Tier IVb...anything bigger was offered only in a CVT transmission. For the AFS Connect series tractors, they are offering a 400HP model with a powershift transmission, but its got many changes from the old STS IH design.
  20. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong....but I remember IH making a big deal out of the IH 1586 being the first(or one of the first) tractors tested at Nebraska tractor tests utilizing radial tires for improved traction. Also, IIRC, the 1586 was also the first tractor in NA that spec'ed radial tires as standard equipment from the factory. Radials would sure help on overall drawbar pull.
  21. Happy Birthday Jim!!
  22. You guys make it sound like a 5010/5020/6030 was just a big, dumb oaf that decorated farmer's front yards. Hate to tell you, but the 6030 was a very versatile tractor around here. All the 6030s I can think of around here had 3pt. hitches, and were used for row-crop work. The one neighbor that literally farmed all around my Dad's farm planted all of his row crops with a 6030 for most years in the 1980s. We still planted with listers in the 1980s, so your planting tractor needed to have some HP. He planted with an IH #92 Cyclo lister that was 8RW. A lister digs a trench 6-8" deep and plants the seed in the bottom of the trench...Texans would recognize it as a middle buster with seed meters. Now, a 6030 would have been overkill for this, but it did the job for this neighbor for years. Another neighbor had a 1466 black stripe on the same lister size; it handled the lister, but it definitely knew something was back there. Part of the reason why this neighbor used his 6030 as a planter tractor was because....that was the best tractor available for this job for him. He had a Big Bud, a 310/325 Series III Steiger, a John Deere 7520 4wd(bought it new along with the 6030 in 1974-75), a John Deere 4230(that was his go-devil/cultivating tractor), and a fleet on 10 & 20 series New Generation Deeres from back in the 60s. He used to say that the 6030 got the most hours put on it in a year among his fleet of tractors. As far as a big, dumb oaf for a tractor, look at the IH 4300; there's a reason they only made 40-some of them. They were built for a market....that simply was just not there. IH offered very few implements that would need a 4300 to pull them. You sure could make a case that they were way ahead of their time, but the $$$ spent on R &D for the 4300 could have probably been better spent to produce a tractor that there were just 40-some made. I can tell you one guy that sure would have been happy if IH would have developed a bigger horse going back to the early 1960s.....and that was my IH dealer. Most of the farms around here still did a lot of business with him for a lot of other IH equipment....tillage, planting, haying equipment. But when it came to bigger HP tractors, most of those guys didn't even give him or IH a chance....they went to Deere. One thing I remember farmers talking about IH being behind on with harvesting equipment was the Quick-Attach header/feeder setup. IH came out with it in 1974 which was a few years behind most of their competitors. As far as the Deere 40 series corn heads....they can thank Massy Ferguson for those as they were first company with that style of corn head. Why MF didn't take Deere to court like Deere did to IH on corn heads is lost on me.
  23. We sold three new 18-row 30” Gehringhoff corn heads this summer. They won’t have much problem with the corn around here this year. One other thing that helps with combine capacity on today’s machines is automation. Guys that have ran both will tell you a 50 series Axial-Flow with Automation will easily get another 10% more done in a day than one without. Keeps the machine running at full capacity under all conditions.
  24. Cummins common-rail engine valvetrain issues....yes they seem to have problems there. Have seen valve seats fall out of the head, burnt valves, worn valve guides, among other things with the valvetrain on them. Usually catastrophic whatever happens. The torque for the injector tubes has changed through the years. It was raised to 31-32 ft. lbs and now they want them torqued to 37-38 ft. lbs. Have had trouble with the jumper tubes sealing to the injectors, causing high-pressure fuel system leaks internally.
  25. Work under and behind the torque sensor/rotor drive pulley in the engine area. There is a bad spot under the rotor gearbox on 2388s where material can build up over years and cause problems like you describe. It was put in there since the gearbox on the 2388 is bigger than the older models. I've removed several rotor gearboxes on 2388s over the years....its amazing what all can get packed in there...and any kind of oil leaks in the engine compartment just add fuel to the fire. Just have to get in there with a good air pistol setup and a vacuum cleaner and a screwdriver/prybar to break up the accumulation of material. Start in the area of the gearbox where the shifter is for the 3 speeds, and work your way around both sides of the rotor gearbox towards the rotor itself.
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