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About pede

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/10/1958

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  • Location
    Woodhull, Illinois
  • Interests
    Second generation contractor, owner/operator, sadly most of the old stuff is gone but still run a 15E. Have owned; TD18A, TD20/201, TD20C, 250C.

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  1. I might check to see if the different tooth configuration will bolt up, ring and pinion would have to be a set in this case and may change the ratio but shouldn't make that much difference.
  2. Thinkin it's a 20B. As for fixing it would depend on what you want it for, if it has sentimental attachment or you want to restore it by all means go for it, if your looking for a worker, occasionally or day to day, scrap it. Parts are way to hard to come by, if not impossible and with this size of machine even when you could get parts they were expensive. You said the tracks are good but looks like the front idler is a long ways out and the pads are shot, that's about 15grand when you could get them.
  3. LiuGong owns them now but you might try Komatsu, they still have rights to some parts. There's a Dressta dealer in Benton Illinois that might be helpful.
  4. German?? Deutz? 7E would think either IH or Cummins.
  5. If it's anything like my 20, first thing is a lot of cleaning...then what DWF said, be mindful it may have 12pt headed bolts, I always had them rebuilt but we have a top notch rebuilder close.
  6. Had a Motorola starter once, every time that baby went to the rebuilder it was $300...all the others were half that.
  7. All most every machine I have ran with a power shift type trans has a decelerator, I do know their is internal plumbing to soften the shift but wouldn't recommend doing it at full throttle, me I always decelerated, and just touched the brake before a shift. Again check to make sure the hand throttle is going to WOT and if you can't find a stop I'd get you a cheap RPM meter and see where it's at, believe the C's were around 2200-2300rpm's.
  8. Almost sounds like you got a motor problem, let us know after the pressure check. Should be a stop on the throttle linkage at pump for wide open, make sure the linkage is getting it all the way there, these units need to run at full throttle for everything to function correctly. You said you removed the decelerator, how you shifting it?
  9. Does it have 2 speed steer? I know the 20/250c's fairly well but in the 15's when the went to the E it's a whole different animal.
  10. Had one of those boxes on every dozer we ever had, older ones were mounted on the fender right beside the seat and usually got pretty beat up, 20c had it right behind the shift tower and like to collect dirt behind it, later discovered 4 short threaded pipes(for the lack of a better term) on the plate to the right of the seat that fit the holes in the box.
  11. Yeah, 30wt is to much, use 10wt. The oil argument is a long one, lots have gone to hyguard or hytran but.....and I'll tell you what my long time dealer told me; if you have replaced the clutch disks anytime after about 1980 then by all means use the modern oil, if not stick with the 10wt, the other is to slick.
  12. Way to many places to even venture a guess on this one, sometimes finding the leak can be more of a challenge then fixing. You've got to clean it enough for a good look, but I don't like to wash all the dirt off, at least till I find it, for me it's easier to spot dirty.
  13. They are I think either commercial or gull sunstrand.
  14. can you clean the pump up and see who made it? might be a better way to find a replacement then anything IH.
  15. We had the same 20c from 1974-mid 90"s, bought another plus a 250c and in all that time never removed the top deck, these were day to day runners, well except the 250 was bought for parts.
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