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pede

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About pede

  • Birthday 07/10/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woodhull, Illinois
  • Interests
    Second generation contractor, owner/operator, sadly most of the old stuff is gone but still run a 15E. Have owned; TD18A, TD20/201, TD20C, 250C.

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  1. I'm at a loss with E's but here is what I know. If it has the bolt/lock nut on each side of the rear case that would be the pivot brake adjustment, start unit and pull levers back, if one goes farther then the other tighten the bolt on the one that pulls back the farthest to equal them out, if looking for more brake I wouldn't adjust more then a full turn on either. If it has a block with maybe 3, 1/4in lines and caps that's where you check pressure, no idea of which ones which and need a manual for that and what pressure. With the E's you need to check pressure in the final drive inside the rear case and I have no idea on that.
  2. Remember when running this, it's designed to be run at full throttle. As for the hoses it's best to take them off and have a local shop make them, that way you know it's right.
  3. Does this thing have a safety filter along the frame like the C's?
  4. I started on, what dad always called the 18A, but now think it was a 182. We also had at that time a 20/201 which was for the most part the same tractor with a few improvements and more HP but believe the undercarriage was the same size. The B series was the start of the collaboration with Stalowa Wola. Anyways I will agree my picture is a TD14. Thanks everybody!
  5. Most people concur it's either a 14 or 18, and yes that's another dozer in the background. This was waaaay before my time, I started in 73 on an 18A. Every cable unit I've ever run had the same lever configuration just like this. I've tried to zoom in but just blurs out. I'm going to venture back in the day that blades were added by the dealer, seen to many different style cable runs to be factory, dad always called these headache bars, in my time they were mounted to the fenders. Didn't 18's have 6 bottom rollers?
  6. I've always wonder about the dozer in my avatar, it's my Dad, probably late 40's and fairly sure it's a new dozer but don't know what model. Story goes; my uncle and dad go to Peoria(some may understand the significance of that) bout 60miles away, again late 40's looking for a dozer, dad was back from the war and my uncle had a little money, ended up at an IH dealer looking at one new on the showroom floor. Now these 2 hicks from the sticks, more then likely dressed the part and after kicking tires so to speak flagged down a salesman. I can only imagine what he thought but dad said for the most part talked down to them and when my uncle asked how much he scoffed a little and blasted out $7000. Well, my uncle who is old school swede thought about it for a bit, grabbed the straps of his bibs and asked if they deliver.....Anybody got an idea of what model is in the pic? thinking it's an older 18 but I have no idea.
  7. I wouldn't even consider a JD repower. I was looking pretty hard at cat undercarrige at one point, couldn't get my hands on anything long before parts got hard to get, rails weren't a problem and rollers might have required some grinding on the track frame but it took extensive mods to make a sprocket fit.
  8. hardtail, this is a whole different animal then I'm use to. I have run a 15E now for some time and we've had problems with the clutches, now at my age I call a guy to fix them, I even helped him rebuild a clutch but just don't have the desire to understand them anymore, my government check is coming next year. I literally cut my teeth deep in the belly of the older 18's and 20's but even on the 20c that I spent 35years on never once did we pull the top cover.
  9. Had an 18a dozer one time that lost a little brass screws from the butterfly on the carburetor work it's way on top of the piston, made a heck of a knocking noise.
  10. I would agree on just to see if I can. Good workmanship on the whole thing, lots of time and probably a good pile of junk to pick from, I'd say more time then money but this ain't a bush fix.
  11. Keep in mind it takes a **** of a welder to do the grousers, did my 20C once, used a 650amo Hobart with 5/64 flux cored wire at around 300amps. I did break a few, mainly from loading on the lowboy.
  12. Not real familiar with the smaller dozers but on the bigger stuff, older style rail had the notches, can't remember the time frame but newer rails did not have them, I do remember grinding off the tabs on the pads to make them fit. The grouser setup on the first picture were more then likely used to plow snow giving better traction on ice but I have seen that configuration on dozers pulling tile plows albeit much taller. I think you can still buy weld on grouser bar, it comes in several different sizes.
  13. Not sure why you'd do this unless you wanted finer speed control, lot of work just to replace the clutch.
  14. I believe interlocking will have a notch in the rail and a corresponding key on the backside of the pad, non will all be smooth, but I could be wrong. Pads in your picture are snow pads.
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