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About pede

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/10/1958

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  • Location
    Woodhull, Illinois
  • Interests
    Second generation contractor, owner/operator, sadly most of the old stuff is gone but still run a 15E. Have owned; TD18A, TD20/201, TD20C, 250C.

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  1. This pretty much has the same setup as the dozers right? torque to trans? driveshaft turning? don't think the ring gear drives those pumps, trying to remember the layout, is their some sun gears in there? if it's not the same as the dozers forget what I just said and will add Loosing both would be rare but anything's possible.
  2. My dealer had one that they would loan out till someone abused the privilege. Pic below is not it and just pulled off the web but it's just like the one I used.
  3. I'm with Hardtail, no starter shops in BC? Now if you just like to do fab work, then by all means go ahead but I should tell you that every Cat guy I know with a pony motor wants it replaced with a regular starter.
  4. Several years back I made the transition in all my equipment from 30w to Rottella 15-40 and it cut my oil consumption in half. I agree the H is new enough for Hytran.
  5. TD5 has it right, although I have had welded pins come out. I have used a portable pin press, on our 20 dozers I've seen the gauge hit 100tons before it made the big POP.
  6. Bought a new pressure relief valve for the radiator and it was $60, I always felt if I could get away from the dealer for less then $200 I was happy but come on....$60 for a thermostat....OK...it fixed the problem. 3 years later, same problem so off I go, this time it was $200...that was my point when enough was enough. It wouldn't be fair if I didn't mention that was Komatsu's attempt to break Dresser by tripling the price of parts.
  7. I usually tell my farmer buddies that have decided to get a dozer, it's fun for about 2 days after that it's work and just wait till something goes bang down deep inside and the honeymoon's over. That's the best I got Walker.....😃🤪🤑
  8. That'll do some pushing!! Check your throttle linkage to make sure the lever on the injection pump is hitting the stop at full throttle, these things need to run at proper RPM's and don't like even being a 200 under. Any exhaust leak? Pivot point or dead axle takes gease and a lot of it, be careful not to blow the back seal. Check the track frame slide plates. I'd say the crap on the plugs looks normal. I always liked the 20E but was to heavy to move without permit, well it would take 2, over width and weight, the 20c only needed the width.
  9. Pull the pump, it's not all that bad and you can make new gaskets. I can't remember where the tube goes, but both ends have small hose and clamps, the hose is special because it's 2 different sizes and about 3ins long, hopefully those are still available. It changes size so the metal tube can clear the fan belt.
  10. I was trying to remember, fairly sure you have to remove the pump. The worst part about that is removing the crossover tube, I cut that once only to find out it's a very special little rubber hose, I think I still have a spare one in the parts bin. I believe I have taken the cooler off with the pump still mounted to it. I've also done this more times than I care to remember.....😵
  11. We never trailered our JD 760, had a 30mph road gear and since it had a 4 tire tractor it was road legal, the 2 wheelers are not or need a permit.
  12. I think the only place the 2 can mingle is the rear main seal. Believe the new seal come with a speedy sleeve for the crank.
  13. Yes, early 20 had 7.5, later had 8.5, I had both, quick reference on the difference is the dash, older will be long and narrow and newer will be more square. I would think you'd have better luck at a Berco or ITP dealer but the key will be to find someone willing to do some research and not just a part number guy, good luck.
  14. I've welded up rollers for years, even built a jig to turn and cool with the mig gun fixed. This isn't as easy as it sounds, first thing is to have the right wire or rod, most will recommend buildup then hard face, we found a wire that worked for both but as time went by it got pricey. Next you'll need a welder that runs 100% duty cycle at around 300 amps. Last is the roller it's self, we've found that if you need to buildup more then 3/4 of an inch it get's tricky, most are considered junk at 1in, takes 7 or 8 passes to get that much on and what happens the shell will constrict even with cool
  15. Gears and stuff like that can usually be found in the bone yards, good list of them on this site, company has new clutch disks but the name escapes me, someone may chime in on that. Ahhhh, exhaust...something that no body can find, this is one of the last things I did to my 20 before it went to auction. We built one, did away with the problematic slip joints and went to the modern style ring clamps but took a ton of machining and fab work, I was lucky to have a good friend with a machine shop and did all the welding myself but I still had a lot of time and money in it. I use to have a good con
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