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About pede

  • Birthday 07/10/1958

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  • Location
    Woodhull, Illinois
  • Interests
    Second generation contractor, owner/operator, sadly most of the old stuff is gone but still run a 15E. Have owned; TD18A, TD20/201, TD20C, 250C.

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  1. Spray it the best you can with brake clean then use some deep creep and let it soak, you may only be able to do 3 at a time to assure it runs where it's suppose to and make sure to give it some time to work, couple hours to half a day. I had a small 8lb hammer I used on the cast base but that was a 20, the 7 will be tighter, I can tell you, you'll know right away if one blade is not right. Taking the fan off is a pain in the a$$, remove the little cover screws and the bolts will be behind.
  2. Don't feel bad, like Hardtail said, we've all done it, my favorite was fuel caps, had a roll of old fence steal my engine dip stick once. Best one, 3/4drive ratchet left on the track, made a prefect 90deg bend right at the head and it was a good S&K, guy at the hardware store sneakered a bit as he handed me a new one, no charge.
  3. We actually rented an electric 1in drive the first couple of times, thing was heavy, problem was getting the right socket, one that would fit the head (most were somewhat tapered from wear) and squeeze between the bolt head and cleat, had a whole box of "special" sockets. Funny thing is the old manuals calls for a re-torque like every 10hrs.
  4. Did more pads on the 20's then I care to remember, early days it was a breaker bar, can still feel it in my shoulder when the bar would snap as the bolt started to move. We did eventually get an impact but still had to torque them to 400ftlbs, my right are is an inch longer then my left.
  5. Living close to and knowing more then a few that work at the crystal palace I here a lot of rumors. Deere liked the mega dealer when it started but has since thought it maybe wasn't the best idea as some of those dealers have way to much influence, let's call it the Walmart syndrome. I heard they denied one out west that would have made a super mega dealer.
  6. I forgot about Busses. Most of our IH parts came from Chicago, years later when Komatsu came around they built a big warehouse in Tn. Our JD 760A parts came from Milan, IL, 20 miles from us and did a lot of will calls out of there, usually 2-3hrs.
  7. What kind of equipment you see in your area and good or bad experiences with one brand or the other is all about the dealer. A lot of people bring up the AG stuff and that's not relevant with IH, industrial side was always separate and sold at least 2 years before the AG. To my knowledge the only way you could get parts, say for industrial from an AG dealer or vissa/versa was if you had the number and it was used in an application for the products of the dealer you were at, IH never crossed that line. Deere does cross that line somewhat, more on the AG side and I've also found them to be less expensive then their Industrial counterparts. But this is all in my area and may be different elsewhere. It's my opinion, a good dealer will keep you brand loyal regardless of the shortcomings of the equipment they sell. It's funny to look back at the days before the big delivery companies, my dealer would call the IH factory in Chicago for a part, they would put it in a taxi to the airport and the dealer would have it the next day. Sorry, kinda long winded on this one and all over the place.
  8. Interesting fact, JP Morgan stepped in and merged several companies that became IH, no idea on the AG stuff but the construction side were allowed to continue to produce separately at least for a while. I live in a unique geographical location in regards to MFG's, 25mi from Deere, 60mi from Cat and 150miles from IH, Deere was not a player in the industrial stuff till the mid 70's. My Dad started right after he was discharged from WW II. IH had been producing dozers for the war, Cat was building other stuff and had not got back to normal production, Dad went to Peoria, IL and bought a new TD 14 in 1947, they had a Cat 60 they used to pull a trailer for the 14, the 60 supposedly had a heck of a road gear. Anyways that's how we got started with IH. I type IH only because it's quicker, International Harvester was the parent company, the industrial side was just International. More tomorrow...maybe.
  9. Lots going on here, kinda all over the place, let me start with the OP. IH was far from junk, Cat had one tried and true design where IH was always trying to innovate. I do think they did way to much field R&D, had 2 changes in design directly tied to our 20C, piston sleeve oring and fan belts, by the time they got to the later models, they had it right and will put that almost 50 year old tractor up against anything on the market today. I attribute their demise to upper management, a strike combined with a massive expansion in Europe and the path was set.
  10. Hot topic this morning, to bad I'm running late, will get back to this.
  11. I have no idea if it was the same one, happened probably 8-10 years apart, first time I thought that is odd, second was...again?? The second time was a field service so I had the dealer come out and pull to take it to their shop, had spun a main and no not the one with the missing bolt, funny thing it had not hurt the crank but the dealer had found a burr on the cap and filed it off. After the reinstall the motor ran for 30secs and locked up.....yep...he didn't plastic gauge the journal. Took us less then 30mins to pull the second time and had tore up the crank, only bright spot of this fiasco was it didn't cost me anything other then lost revenue. I will tell you it's the policy of my dealer to Loctite everything. Sorry for the long story...
  12. You can try FP Smith, Motition Industries use to have a cross for IH numbers but that was back in the book days, if you can get them off without destroying them bout any good seal/bearing store should be able to measure and get you something. There is also a good IH/Dresser/Dresta dealer in Benton Illinois that likes this old stuff.
  13. I'd have no problem using red Loctite as long as you it's used properly. I overhauled my 573B 3 times in it's life, mainly due to oring failure, twice when we pulled the pan a main bearing bolt was laying in the bottom, no locking plat on these, and found no damage. Used Loctite the last time, maybe 20 years ago and to my knowledge it's still running.
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