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Dan Robinson

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About Dan Robinson

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  • Birthday 11/23/1993

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  1. With a ICB cab you either climb out the back window, or set the picker all the way down and take the hinge apart on the door and open the top half and climb out. 656 mounts and 66 series mounts are totally different. You are better off finding a set of 06 mounts and adpating them to fit a 66, if thats what you were wanting. One other thing to remember, if you want to use a 806 or bigger you need the long 15in extensions for the front snoot as the tractor is longer. Theres quite a few different processing units for the back that were available when new, some are very hard to find. 1. Hopper unit- hopper with elevator only. 2. Hopper unit with auger- hopper with an auger in bottom to bring ears to the elevator. "Sweetcorn unit" 3? Husking bed- 8 roll bed. Ive heard from others of there being one but havent seen it in any literature to prove it. 4. Husking bed- 12 roll husking bed with elevator. 5. Standard Sheller- sheller unit only. Has just a regular trough at end of auger, no flinger. 6. Multi-Purpose Sheller- Sheller with the capabilty of being converted to a grinder unit (if parts package was bought) Is standard with a flinger on auger. 8. Multi-Purpose Grinder- Grinder unit that came with all the parts to turn it into a sheller or sheller/cracker.
  2. Cornpickers ethuastists here too. I run my 806DT under a 234 with a sheller. The other is on a 560D. Everybody has said the main points. 706 mounts are the most common. M mounts are hard to find. 66 are also. I have a set of New Gen Deere mounts. Which would be the most common of the other brands of mounts. Common wear points are the chains and sprockets. Take a good look at the sprockets that drive the snapping rolls. The subframe can either have 1000 or 540 drive. Those sprockets like to wear. The subframe I use is hydraulic lift but i use my rockshaft to lift the frame when mount/unmount. Start at scrap price and go from there. Good shed kept combos bring 750-1000 in nice clean condition here. Sitting outside is not good on them. If you can get some pics it will help us figure out a price for you.
  3. At 10k hrs. Ill bet that the counterbores are eroded in the block and will be put water back in the oil in short order if not fixed. If you do an inframe, how will you change the cam bearings because they will be wore out? You dont. My vote is keep it, and do an out of frame. Then you know exactly what you have inside if it. I dont put much faith in remans.
  4. Dont listen to J-Stud, he likes to here himself talk. I prefer to use Rustoleum 2X Gloss Colonial Red. For projects that need a rattle can. It covers real well and not runny like the 2150 you get from the dealer. Its also just a little darker. Matches a little better to older paint.
  5. Start with 2 steel plates. Then alternate ever other. Make sure there is clearence so the pack doesnt drag, and create premature wear.
  6. The black stripes had 2 square flashers from the factory.
  7. For curiousity sake, I pulled up the 1456 Fiche card at work. The only clutch it lists is a 390254R93. Which is a 12 spring clutch. Not a heavy 15 spring. It shows 15 holes in the cover plate, but only uses 12 of them. Theres your answer.
  8. So, back to the very first comment on the post. A 390254 is not less than stock. It will hold up just fine for what hes doing. I got that number right off the HyCap website under the 1456 application. I have put many of them in with no side effects. No reason to buy a $800 clutch booster when he doesnt need it. Ya, they're nice but not needed with the correct parts.
  9. No wish it was. Brought around 25k on a estate sale this past summer. Its now located in Miles Ia
  10. Red. Heres 1256 #7502 for reference.
  11. You need a 390254 HyCap PPA. It has 12 springs instead of 15. Its built for a non clutch booster tractor. Just put one in a 966 with a 466 and 14in flywheel. Pushes like an old 12 in.
  12. The holes behind the cab doors are to screw lift eyes to. That is the balance point to lift off the cab to do transmission work.
  13. In my opinion, IH held on too to the 66 style wide front wayyyy too long. Way to many pivot points to keep tight. You never seem to rebuild 56 series axles much. If they would have usedthe 1456 style widefront with a heavier steering arm off the bolster, you would see much less problems. Just look at a 4000 series Deere. Never seem many problems with the arm breaking off or pivot points to wear out. And pinky finger steering.
  14. Yes Aaron if you change the whole assembly, it will work. I believe the cooler heads are different also, so you cant just change the "cartridge". You will lose some cooling capacity as others say. If its just a parade tractor it would be fine, any sort of worked, id want the right sized one on. When i bought my 806 it had the large cooler on it. No sign of any other turbo parts. So i bet the original cooler had gone out then went to the dealer and it subbed, so thats what got put on.
  15. Yes taper should be the same. I always drop the left hand tire off and set the hub on the floor. Then use a straight 1/2 drill. Takes a while.
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