MCC

Oil pressure is good. The oil pump was gone through a couple years ago.

I am looking for direction in the repair of my engine that is getting water on top of #4 piston. I did not see any coolant leaking from the outside of the sleeve. Before this happened the motor ran great and the only issue I was aware of was blue smoke at start up that went away after a minute or 2 for the 6 years I've owned it. When I bought it, I checked compression and it was 110 to 120 across the 4. So I pulled the head and didn't find any obvious source of the leak. I am taking the head to the machine shop and let them do a full rebuild on it if it checks out good. I want to know if I should redo the bottom end while I am in this far. The sleeves look good from what i can tell. The end of ring travel ridge is hardly detectable with my finger. The pistons are 3.25" and the tractor had plenty of power for what I use it for. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Dan

Oprah?

Both of my daily use vehicles are manuals, so I do use a clutch often. On this tractor, I can engage the clutch smoothly and take off just fine in 5th, but there will be clutch smell, unless I can find a hill to roll down. My Farmall friend tells me his dad taught him to always start in 4th and upshift for this reason. I just find this frustrating as it makes getting into road gear a challenge. With my current skills, I will either shorten clutch or gear life.

I have a SMD that has a newish clutch, new 4/5 slider gear and new trans input shaft/gear. When I take off in 5th from a dead stop, I can smell the clutch, unless I am coasting down a slight grade. My friend who grew up on Farmalls tells me to always take off in 4th and shift up to 5th and the clutch will live a long life. My problem with this is I can't seem to master this with any consistency without grinding the gears at least half of the times I try this. He gave me instructions on how to double clutch and I watched Bob's youtube video instructions on this and I am still struggling. I am afraid to keep practicing as I can't stand the damage I must be doing to my very expensive gears. Is it critical to make the shift into 5th as fast as possible while doing this? I tried to ease it into 5th tonight to minimize grinding and it was a failure. I am looking for wisdom so I don't wreck my gears trying to figure this out on my own. Thanks, Dan

Banned?

I've had good luck with both Central Fuel Injection in Estherville, IA and Diesel Specialties in Sioux City, IA.

My SC is leaking coolant into the oil. If I end up needing to overhaul it, I am wondering about kit quality today. My local reputable machine shop says he has not had issues with Reliance other than the head gaskets in some applications. I am leery. If NOS is unavailable, are there other options? Thanks, Dan

If that is the Oberstar, she is powered by 2 Rolls-Royce Marine Bergen 6-cylinder B32:40L6P diesel engines each rated at 4,079 b.h.p each. The white steam is actually caused from exhaust scrubbers that were installed by Interlake on most if not all of their diesel powered ships.

I just picked up this IH 100 to use on 3 acres of hay for hobby purposes.

That was a great buy IMHO.

Pretty sure the difference in part numbers indicates a slightly different governor setting.

That's real close to me. I'll have to keep an eye out for it.

Guess if I would've remembered your post from the other day, I would have known that.

What tractor were you on? I might have a picture.