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About rocko592018

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/19/1959

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  • Location
    Vernon BC
  • Interests
    Old logging, construction equipment, railroad and steam enthusiast. Mopar muscle cars and IH Scouts and pickups.

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  1. Wow, that is quite the fleet in the Kingdom now King! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ
  2. I have seen a clutch pack failure like that on these transmissions but try the left brake and see if it kicks into neutral. You should be able to feel it clicking into each gear at the shifter and if it doesnโ€™t, then unhook the shift cables and see what that does. As far as I know all parts are available, look in the parts places in the pinned listing at the top for Brown IH in BC Canada. R59
  3. Here is the 24C I did an engine for last year. It has a tile plow burying 6โ€ Big O drain tile at least 6โ€™ down. He bit the bullet and let me do a very complete job on Th is one. It had 3 minor issues that caused Big problems. The rad pressure relief had a worn and blown out seal in it, causing zero coolant pressure. The last fuel line between the reservoir(filter) and injection pump was severely undersize starving it for fuel. The heads were not torqued properly using Molycote GN paste on the studs and washers, giving way less clamping force and the center stud was still the original skinny o
  4. I would say it looks like an early Carco Model E gear drive winch, it has the Carco towing hitch under it too. R59
  5. Good work in getting the lube valve problem IDโ€™d Dennis! Happy it is working again. Sounds like the relief fitting is bad and the main cartridge where the zerk is can be loose too. Clean around the grease cartridge with the zerk and take a 3/4โ€ deep socket, press it down about 1 1/2โ€ try to tighten the cartridge as that looks like a grease trail on that side of the front idler tread. This being an early B series it may have a brass plate on the left side of the seat frame that explains the steering adjustment procedure, otherwise it is in the service manual. It sounds like the right side st
  6. The scavenger pump screen in the first pic strains oil that gets fed to the steering drive for lube. The big canister up on the right side is the trans pump screen
  7. Ive been away for a while, I hope the job is going good. I usually swap the discs between F1 and R2, R2 usually has the best discs as they donโ€™t get worked hard. 175โ€™s and 15โ€™s do have different gear ratios. The factory kits always have some extra parts. When assembling it use heavy grease to center the hook rings and some light elastic bands to keep the rollers tight on the inner race as you lower the case down. If you donโ€™t have the rollers secured one could tip out and mess up the cage.
  8. On a TD15C it is most likely a bad pinion bearing that dropped a roller into the bull gear. There is a drain plug that should have a magnet on the inner final drive housing at the bottom above the track. They also have 3 sun gears in the tub on the outside. Take the big 1.5โ€ hex level plug out, give it a couple good wallops as it has a copper seal washer. It has a 1/2โ€ square hole too, that is a good way to twist off the end of end of a swing handle or ratchet though. Both plugs should have magnets. See if any shrapnel is on them.
  9. They look like transfer pumps, I may be able to look the number up on Monday
  10. Thanks guys! Yes, the pump was done, we did a very complete job on this tractor. Those are huge high heels eh, notice the plastic lawn chair in one pic, it helped the ole knees a lot and there is still room to stand on the hard bar for the lower things. I thought Dresser kept the tradition going pretty well, they built some good machines and kept the development moving forward, the TD9H and all H series were a huge leap forward in doing away with the PITA blade carrying frames and making proper canopy mounts. The rad pressure valve can be repaired with a new Oring, until they get too baked and
  11. Well we got the engine back in and running today, we went through everything associated with it and I found a lot of small problems and some major ones in the engine. This is one of the most complete jobs I ever did. It is sure nice when they want it all done right. It had 2 blown pistons, bad cam, cracked crank and lots of general wear. The heads are done, top deck of the block surfaced, turbo, injection pump, injectors all rebuilt, cam reground, crank replaced and many new small parts. Complete overhaul package, sleeves, pistons, bearings, rods resized. Every seal and line on the engine was
  12. It will do fine without that, they just limit fuel to cut down on smoke until the boost gets up.
  13. Right on, good news! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ
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