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About rocko592018

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/19/1959

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  • Location
    Vernon BC
  • Interests
    Old logging, construction equipment, railroad and steam enthusiast. Mopar muscle cars and IH Scouts and pickups.

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  1. The scavenger pump screen in the first pic strains oil that gets fed to the steering drive for lube. The big canister up on the right side is the trans pump screen
  2. Ive been away for a while, I hope the job is going good. I usually swap the discs between F1 and R2, R2 usually has the best discs as they don’t get worked hard. 175’s and 15’s do have different gear ratios. The factory kits always have some extra parts. When assembling it use heavy grease to center the hook rings and some light elastic bands to keep the rollers tight on the inner race as you lower the case down. If you don’t have the rollers secured one could tip out and mess up the cage.
  3. What parts do you need?
  4. On a TD15C it is most likely a bad pinion bearing that dropped a roller into the bull gear. There is a drain plug that should have a magnet on the inner final drive housing at the bottom above the track. They also have 3 sun gears in the tub on the outside. Take the big 1.5” hex level plug out, give it a couple good wallops as it has a copper seal washer. It has a 1/2” square hole too, that is a good way to twist off the end of end of a swing handle or ratchet though. Both plugs should have magnets. See if any shrapnel is on them.
  5. They look like transfer pumps, I may be able to look the number up on Monday
  6. Thanks guys! Yes, the pump was done, we did a very complete job on this tractor. Those are huge high heels eh, notice the plastic lawn chair in one pic, it helped the ole knees a lot and there is still room to stand on the hard bar for the lower things. I thought Dresser kept the tradition going pretty well, they built some good machines and kept the development moving forward, the TD9H and all H series were a huge leap forward in doing away with the PITA blade carrying frames and making proper canopy mounts. The rad pressure valve can be repaired with a new Oring, until they get too baked and the small inner seal goes. Yah, the 20C’s were about the limit of that design, they still built them a couple more years after the 20E was released. The Custom Application machines had a wet clutch and manual transmission so heating problems were much less. We had a nice big Kubota tracked skid loader and a JCB Agri loader, (a telescoping boom high lift) so lifting was a breeze.
  7. Well we got the engine back in and running today, we went through everything associated with it and I found a lot of small problems and some major ones in the engine. This is one of the most complete jobs I ever did. It is sure nice when they want it all done right. It had 2 blown pistons, bad cam, cracked crank and lots of general wear. The heads are done, top deck of the block surfaced, turbo, injection pump, injectors all rebuilt, cam reground, crank replaced and many new small parts. Complete overhaul package, sleeves, pistons, bearings, rods resized. Every seal and line on the engine was done and new fuel hoses. The short hose from the filter/ reservoir to the injection pump was very undersized, it had about a 1/8” hole through the fitting and #4 hose so it was lacking fuel delivery. The coolant pressure valve in top of the rad had a blown seal so no coolant pressure and all the paint was burned off the turbo drain tube. After the fuel system bled it fired right up snd sounds real strong.
  8. It will do fine without that, they just limit fuel to cut down on smoke until the boost gets up.
  9. Right on, good news! 👍🏼
  10. Wow! How did this work out Ed? There are H30’s and H50’s loaders with 236 and 282’s as well, never my favourite engine, they even seem weak in the head bolt department for a gas engine where they started from.
  11. Welcome to the forum! Good find!! 15C’s have always been one of my faves!
  12. That muffler looks original on there as well as the rectangular oil bath air cleaner and piping. The tank on top of the hood is a surge tank that was added to help overcome the problem of the rear head going dry on steep downgrades. It was first used on TD 14- 142’s. This is basically a 142 with a 6 cylinder engine and some other updates. Pull that air cleaner off and go through the gas start linkage, sound like you have the ignition done now. I was given one of these but never picked it up and I think it went to China 😟
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