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Binderdan

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About Binderdan

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  • Birthday September 26

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    Tularosa, New Mexico

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  1. One cable does Fwd-Neutral-Reverse One cable does 1-2-3 I just don't remember which cable does which, upper vs lower cable on the transmission.
  2. There are two cables that go into the transmission. One shifts 1, 2, 3 speeds. The other is Fwd, Neutral, and Reverse. Both push a valve in the transmission in and out 3 positions. I dont remember which is which but there is one above the other on the left side of the machine. You should be able to figure out which is which by having someone move the levers(machine off) and watch to see which one moves, and what direction. Once you have that figured out you might identify an issue, or you could unhook the cable to the directional valve and manually move it to the appropriate position for loading. WARNING! You will have to be in the articulating area of the machine to do this so please be careful if machine is running. Have a competent and safe person at the controls! Don't get squished! Mine is a 510, but its identical to a 515. My 510 has a 4 cylinder engine, not 6.
  3. Do you have parts manual for it? It is very beneficial to have. In case you didn't know already, the 270A is based of the IH 884 AG tractor. Thankfully when I need parts that are part of the base tractor I can look them up for a 884 and they are available. Mine has been a very good machine so far. Mine is torque converter as well. Mine is pretty light up front as well(no weights either). In fact when driving up my gooseneck trailer ramps the front wheels continue up the invisible ramp for a ways until I stop and it drops the front wheels to the trailer deck. Kinda scary. In case you don't already have it, the steering cylinder seal kit part number is 536314R92 Only place I found it was on Ebay, and they had one more.
  4. Hello Victor. I am not home near my parts books. But I have some pictures of my parts book for my IH 270A which is the next generation newer (almost identical) to your 3500A. I think it uses the same rear hoe. Unless yours is the European style that slides to one side and folds in tight to the back of the tractor. I got some of my seal kits through Allegheny York, some through Case IH, and some I had to piece together from Hercules Seal and others. Boom Cylinder Seal Kit P/N# 545300R93 Dipperstick Cylinder Seal Kit P/N# 548413R92 Bucket Cylinder Seal Kit P/N# 545299R93 Outrigger Cylinder Seal Kit (X2) P/N# 545299R93
  5. Awesome score! Looks like it has lives a harder life than mine has. Glad you got it home. I went through a similar ordeal with the injection pump on mine. Have you found the power steering cylinder seal kit yet? I just rebuilt my steering cylinder a few months ago. Is your 270A hydrostatic ot a torque converter transmission?
  6. Could the directional shift cable be broken and the transmission just remains in fwd no matter where the directional lever is? As I recall the safety switch is in the shifter on the dash, not on the transmission so it would allow it to still start if the shifter was in neutral. Have someone move the directional lever and look at where it moves at the transmission.
  7. Thank you for the kind words on my pickup. It turned out very nice! Post some pictures of your progress. I'll be tearing mine down at some point for a stuck steering clutch. Its always nice to see what you are up against before you start.
  8. Here is the set of Firestone Champion Guide Grips I bought for my Farmall 544 last year from SimpleTire. I think they were 6.5-16s. Seem as good as any Firestone tire. I think SimpleTire can sell them much cheaper because they don't have much infrastructure to pay for. I think they just drop ship tires from the distributor nearest to you rather than maintain their own warehouses.
  9. As I understand you will have to make the tool or borrow it from someone who has made one. Here is a picture of the measurements from another Red Power thread. A lot of folks go through that General Gear out of Boise ID. But I believe FP Smith can reline them. Not sure about Iowa, I sent mine to Fort Wayne Clutch in Indiana for relining.
  10. Take pictures of those swing motors. I'm curious about that repair. Mine are still pretty good yet. Just did pins and bushings on mine. Its so much better now.
  11. This morning I got the head torqued down, valvetrain installed, and everything buttoned up. Even added some Federal Yellow paint. The engine started well and I only had to fight a loose injector and a dripping coolant hose clamp. Looks like it was a success. Thanks for the advise and following along.
  12. Side clearance on the rods to crankshaft checked good so I rolled the engine over with the starter and everything seemed good. So I installed the oil pan. Got the new replacement head out and got it prepped by adding the intake manifold and cleaning any dust off. I took some scotchbrite Roloc discs on a 90 degree die grinder to clean the top of the block. I also installed a new oil filter and filled the crankcase with Case IH no.1 30w oil. Rolled the engine over a bit to prime the oil system. I got the head gasket set on and set the head in place. Tomorrow I will bolt down the head and hopefully finish it.
  13. Well with all the parts in, and nice weather I started reassembling the D268 today. Replaced the piston onto the connecting rod. The old piston pin was very tight took some persuasion to drive it out. But it looked to be in excellent condition and the rod bushing too! I coated everything in 30w engine oil as I put things together. the new rod bearings were installed and coated with assembly lube. I honed cylinder #3 well and cleaned the cylinder wall with WD-40 and a rag. Then coated the cylinder wall with 30w engine oil. Then positioned the piston and rod assembly into cylinder #3 and a gentle tap tap with a hammer handle it went in nicely. After torquing the rod nuts to 18 ft lbs the manual said to turn them 120 degrees. I could only get about 90 degrees before it got so tight I was afraid I'd break the studs off the rod or strip the nuts. Then I checked the top of piston height compared to the others at TDC and it looks to be even.
  14. I didn't think of checking the top of piston height in relation to the top of the liner before I puled it. Wouldn't have been a bad idea to do if I had thought of it earlier. Engine is still in machine and wont be coming out on this go round. So anything beyond in-frame repair is not feasible now. So checking crank wont be possible. I'll probably do a complete rebuild a few years down the road when I have more free time and that can be addressed then. Wrist pin will be getting replaced with piston so we will see how it looks when the new parts arrive. MNFarmall am I looking at the top of the connecting rod in the center of the piston? Ouch! On a happier note, heres a picture of some fun I had today with my 510 Payloader working on my 77 Ford Highboy project. See backhoe with bad valve seat in background.
  15. An update... Sent the head to the machine shop where there were small cracks found around the valves in all the cylinders. They pressure tested the head and found the cracks didn't leak. But they did locate a leak around the injector hole in cylinder #4. They said it would likely be fine since the machine was only used occasionally and not run hard. I located a rebuilt head for an IH 884 tractor and just ordered it. I like this machine and have no plans to ever sell it so I wanted to do it right. I removed cylinder #3 piston and inspected it. The piston wasn't in terrible shape but wasn't that great either. the liner was pretty decent. No damage I could catch my fingernail on. I found a new Red Power brand cylinder kit on Ebay. Unfortunately I damaged the rod bearing on the cap when removing #3 piston so I'm waiting on the new rod bearing, then I can start putting the engine back together. The plan is to hone the original liner in cylinder #3 and install the piston, rings, and wrist pin from the new cylinder kit.
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