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Binderdan

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About Binderdan

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday September 26

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tularosa, New Mexico
  • Interests
    IH Trucks, Scouts, Tractors, Cub Cadets, IH PayLine.

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  1. Specifically what model 515 loader? 515, 515B, or 515C? And specifically which pins and bushings? I have the books and can probably give you a few numbers if you need. Assuming its just a 515, and you are talking about loader pins and bushings, here is the information. Probably same, or similar for B and C models.
  2. I am in a similar situation with mine. I have located a UD-14A power unit I am trying to buy to replace mine. I see the power units come up on BigIron auctions occasionally but they are usually too far from me(KS or NE).
  3. I don't remember all the details but the original owner of the "Sandfiddler" ran a ferry business in the southeast(I think North Carolina) and ferried vehicles across a river. The truck and the old man who drove it every day were well known in the area. As I recall Nelson bought it from the old man who was in his 90s by that time, and decided to keep the name "Sandfiddler" on the side for the nostalgia. He also added the "IH Gear" to the truck in the same style lettering to match.
  4. Nelson is a great guy to do business with as well as hang out with at the shows! He is quite the character. Has an awesome IH A120 4x4 he brings to the shows called SANDFIDDLER with a cool back story. Some real cool original IH clothing designs that aren't cheesy like some are.
  5. Peter, yes. That is the differential lock mechanism. Started the repair on the hood. Used a grinder to remove the poor excuse for a hood patch. The hood steel was 12ga sheet metal. I couldn't find any 12ga sheet metal locally but I found some slightly thicker steel. I cut out a patch piece to fit into the opening. I have never claimed to be a welder, but I am getting better. In hopes not to warp the hood I welded short beads on alternating sides of the patch. After finally getting weld all the way around the patch, I flipped the hood over and did the same thing on the top.
  6. Thanks for explaining the "Jet head". Makes sense. Looks like my TD-9(91) has a jet head, and my TD-14A does not.
  7. My Case IH parts arrived today from FedEx! After inventorying my parts I got to work lifting the lid back off the rear end housing with the 384 and the lifting boom. Got the rest of the broken shaft out easily. One of the washers went for a swim and I had to fish it out with a magnet. Otherwise swapping the part went pretty smooth! Although in hindsight I should have painted the outside of the lever first. Got the gasket surfaces cleaned up with brake cleaner and a rag, then tried to fish out any dirt that may have fallen in. Used a very thin film of Permatex U
  8. Rawleigh thanks for the tip on the hose source! I may try them next time I need some made. Seem to have good prices. When I saw that Messick's stocked 5+ of them I wondered if this was a common problem. Hadn't thought of trying to get to it from the MCV. May try that if there is a "next time". Thanks! Its a 384. Been a good tractor but an absolute money pit. I should have just bought a nice one for the amount I have in this one I saved from its demise. I replaced my Ford 9N with it. Much better running, better hydraulics, more power, and only slightly bigger so its still easy to
  9. I had checked with Olson's a few yeas ago about a head gasket for my TD-14A, it was available but not cheap. I think around $300. They also asked if it was "jet head", or "non jet-head". I still don't know what that means or how to tell.
  10. Got the top off the rear end housing. I got to say I'm impressed with how clean it is in there! The shift fork you see toward the front is the high/low shift mechanism. I took a pry bar and shifted it through Neutral, and high range. It was a little stiff but moved nicely. The lever on the outside of the housing did not move. The mechanism you see below is what shifts the range fork. (nut removed in picture). Everything seemed to work properly inside, but when I removed the linkage outside I confirmed the problem. The shift shaft had broken where is passes through the housing.
  11. Got a shipment from the tractor salvage yard! Used injector line for cylinder #1, and 3 point hitch arms and pins. Started Disassembling the rear end housing to find the problem with the range shift lever. Lots of hydraulic lines to remove to pull the top cover. Wish my power washer worked, this thing is a disgusting mess under the operator platform. Every hose I had to move or remove cracked bad, so I am having all new ones made while I'm in here. Capped all lines as I went to avoid contamination. Anybody know what this line would do? Looks like it used to go to th
  12. Got home from Colorado and installed the starter. Cranked the engine over beautifully!! ☺️ Before trying to start the engine I decided that I better ensure the fuel system is primed, and check the status of the transmission oil since it's a hydrostatic transmission and it will start pumping oil (or whatever is in it)immediately. Yea, I should have painted the head and valve cover but I ran out of paint. πŸ˜• I got the fuel system primed the best I could with the manual lever on the mechanical fuel pump. I checked the transmission dipstick and it was dry. I had two options. Dr
  13. Got the starter back, clocked correctly, fits perfectly! Got it installed and wired up to a switch and a brand new group 31 battery. Got ready for the first start and.... grind!!! Try again, grind!!!!! Ugh!!! 😣 Removed starter, inspected everything, all looked great. Bench tested starter on the ground and everything looked to be working good. Sounded like the bendix was unable to engage the ring gear and was grinding against it. Swapped solenoid from my Farmall 856 and same result. Ring gear is brand new so I inspected it against the old one and all measurements through the starter hole
  14. Yea, after that 45 mile drive to the truckers place, pushing max allowable EGT, Oil Temp, and Transmission Temps I wasn't about to do that for 500+ miles. Although once up to speed it wasn't too bad, I even managed to pass a oilfield semi. Taking off from a stop was brutal, especially that darn stop light right before a hill. I had initially estimated it at 18,000 lbs + 7,500 lb trailer + 7,000 lb pickup. I never did scale it at the truck stop but we later decided I was way low on my estimate. Davo727 my trailer is 32', usually advertised as a 27+5. I like the length. If I have a load doc
  15. Looks like I found a solution! My friend's dad in Colorado has a trucking business and I made a deal with him to help me get the TD-14A home! Much safer behind a 359 Peterbilt than my F-350! In order to pull my gooseneck trailer with a semi truck I had to replace my gooseneck ball adapter with a kingpin. I used a Wallace Forge 2085207 pre-drilled king pin. Went right into the tube on my trailer, and on the highest adjustment was perfect height for the Peterbilt. This left one other issue, well two actually. Trailer lights, and trailer brakes. My gooseneck trailer has a 7way RV
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