Dzldenny

First movie night for us in a looong time. Both really enjoyed it. Will watch it again once it's streaming.

Agreed. Those duels and hubs were a $100 auction score. Dealer wants that for the 3 wheel bolts that were missing from the set.🥴

This thread is the story of my life. Every single thing gets modified before use. Most often what we want is not available. Close maybe but that's why we modify. I work in manufacturing and can say without reservation... We have 12 mechanical engineers working here and not a single one has an ounce of mechanical ability. Several have more schooling than my doctor and still can't build a birdhouse. Drug this home yesterday. Neighbor who buys everything new saw it sitting on the trailer in the driveway. Stopped to ask if I was starting another business. "What are you going to make with that?" "Whatever the heck I want." He bought the exact same no-till drill as us and the dealer told him there's no rear hitch available. He swore he's seen us pulling the roller behind. Yup. We built our hitch. In fact, we built our roller too. He took pics of both. He will be back for me to build his. The duels on this MX110 were also from a Case 2390 I believe. I built an adapter from 3/4 plates to fit both the tractor on one end and duel hubs on the other. It was also the opportunity to build them wide enough to space for 30 inch rows. Note the apparatus to mount said duels... The list is endless.

I do not have a video of it at its worst. I have a few where you can tell something is off tho. I'll go through the vids on my old phone and see if I can find one. The best would be if I could get the transition from when it's running well to when it begins its fits. Think Detroit 871... I had a buddy baling with me wanted to shut it down when it began. I had to tell him to just let it go. It's better under 1300 rpm or under heavy load but light load or freewheel like road travel wide open is worst. Low rpm is when it wet stacks worst but runs smoothest. I did not measure the valves but yes on the tappets. Pushrods are all healthy and straight. I did find two rockers that were suspect and replaced those when we did the head. I wish I had access to a timing window and a dyno. I'd like to see the advance under load but that's not an option while spreading manure or raking hay.

The odd behavior was present when I purchased the tractor. After checking/adjusting the timing and valve lash made no change I pulled the entire fuel system. I pressure washed the inside of the tank and flushed all of the lines. I didn't know if dirt was hanging things up. The pump and injectors went to a local shop who rebuilt all of the injectors and pump. He said it was turned up 10% when he got in there. I asked him to set it back to stock. I removed the pre cups and cleaned them. Also replaced two of them that had what I thought was more than minor cracks. Pre cup port orientation was per spec. All was re installed with no change in the issue. After years of use two injectors were leaking externally so they all went in again. Two were replaced four rebuilt. At this time I purchased a manual and a kit for the pump and went through it myself. Issue remained so I tore the pump off again and brought it to a different shop who rebuilt it again. I asked him to turn it back up 10%. Same issue. Few more years... Put it in the shop bound and determined to fix it over winter. Even though it had good even compression across the board we pulled the head knowing the 282 reputation. Nothing wrong was found. This was the most recent round when we put the valves, springs, studs, etc in. At this point I could have bought a Magnum for what I have stuck in this thing. I used to see tractors being parted out and wonder why. They were in better shape than many I see in use. I guess now I know how that happens. There's a demon living in this one and short of an exorcism it's refusing to leave.

The 282 in my 706 wet stacks something terrible. French Mastiff (think Turner and Hooch) got nuthin on this drool. I've had the pump and injectors gone through several times. Even replaced some injectors. Tried dead on timing and 4 deg either way. Makes no difference. It has never ran quite right but didn't wet stack until the last time I had the head rebuilt. Surfaced with new valves, seats, springs, and seals with ARP stud kit from Murphy's. I said it never ran quite right. Truthfully it's dead reliable and burns 2 gallons per hour pulling 4-16 in red clay. Sometimes it runs sooo good and sounds great. Then without warning it sounds like the crank is coming out the stack. Hammers away for a while and then goes back to running great. Worse under light load and high rpm. Had a few other guys look it over and all are baffled. If you find the cause of your wet stacking please post an update.

My experience is East Penn is the current manufacturer of choice. The local rebuilder for starters and alternators gave me some info. Manufacturers can sell their product to anyone to relabel as any brand name. Even Walmart batteries can be EP. Two batteries of the same series can be EP or not. Two visually identical batteries can be from different manufacturers. He told me to check the part number. Both batteries say group 35 for example. If the first digit is E it is an EP battery. Example Cxxxxxxxx not EP. Exxxxxxxxx EP battery. Same price. I have a Optima red top in my 7235 Cub Cadet. It was purchased new in 1996. Still going although cranks much slower now in cold weather than previously. I also have a red top purchased for a generator in 2021. It no longer takes a charge much less hold a charge. Seems nothing of any brand is made to the standard of 5 or 10 years ago unfortunately.

The white zip ties are meant to be temporary. They don't hold up to UV. Try the black ones. Should be better.

With Dad passing last year this one hits hard in the feels. We were debt free. We now have a mortgage again. It ain't always easy keeping the family farm in the family.

@naedlaen I am not an engineer and I respect your experience and knowledge. And honestly that's why we spent years trying those techniques. All I can vouch for is what I've learned from my own experiences tho. Those techniques never worked in our environment. I'm not sure on your location but I figured the OP was close to my area and similar environment. We've tried the tile and granular fill. Didn't work. Tried gravel, washed stone, pea gravel, and even sand. Nothing worked. My attached garage has 8inch walls down to 8ft plus the footings. Tiled and backfilled with sand. It still moves. Our floating slabs do rise and fall with the frost but the key is they fall. The pole buildings don't settle back down. They just rise a little more each year. Each post a little different than the one next to it. And yes the floating concrete does crack but that's the point of the rebar. It keeps it from shifting and the cracks opening up. I poured concrete for years in my youth and tore out more slabs than I care to remember. I've seen everything used as support from mesh, to rebar, barbed wire, two by fours and even fence posts and water pipe. From my experience no kind of mesh is worth the paper I wipe with be it steel wire, fiber mesh or whatever. Tearing out slabs is what settled us on the 3/8 rebar on 2x2. Any kind of mesh would tear out or crumble when we got under with the pallet forks. Rebar usually required cutting to dismantle. It has to be IN the concrete tho. Laying on the substrate under the concrete does nothing. 1/2 rebar in a slab didn't seem to offer any benefits over the 3/8 so we save a few bucks on install. The only guarantees in life is death, taxes, and your concrete is going to crack. Even the Hoover Dam has cracks but the proper design support has kept them from becoming structural.

I believe we have a similar building to your wants. Built it ourselves back in the 90s. 40x90. 40x60 gravel floor. Uninsulated with a 20ft sliding door in the side wall. Just cold covered storage. On the other side of the dividing wall is 30x40 forced air heated and insulated. Concrete with a floor drain. 20ft overhead on the side wall and 10x12 overhead on the gable end. We bought a used 24 ft overhead for pennies and narrowed it to 20ft. 20x40 open work bay and the other 10x40 is lofted. Oil and tire racks in the loft as well as shelving, pigeon hole racks and the air compressor. Inside walls are galvanized for cost savings over painted. Elec conduit accessable on the inner walls for outlet/fixture expansion. We have a 20x24 overhead gantry that covers the work bay minus the 20ft overhead door area. It runs tight to the ceiling for maximum height capability. Lighting is actually high on the walls but below the gantry aimed down to the center. Works great for things like painting. We love it. Cheaper to keep the thermostat as low as it goes and only turn it up when you are in there than shutting it off and on. Changes I'd make... We built a pole shed. In WI just like you we fight frost. Every building on the farm is heaving. This building we buried the poles over 8 ft. Pa wanted to go below the frost. They still heave. Moved enough that the big overhead door gives us grief. Pour a slab with a thickened edge. 3/8 rebar 2ft on center wired both ways. Insulate under and pex tube it. You can't put pex in after. Much steadier heat than forced air. You can use an old forced air furnace until you can afford to hook up the pex. Rough in for the bathroom even if you don't put it in right away. Can't do it after. Build your shed on your floating slab and don't bury poles. Frost pushes the post up and dirt slides under the post before it can settle back down. No matter how deep you go. Clearly built our last shed. Decent building and great price. (Group bundled with two neighbors also building) They were baffled when Pa told them the poles were to be buried 12 ft deep. They did it. I watched. The frost has raised that building nearly a foot since 2018. You can add your dry storage building on the gable down the road. This way you end up with the building you want. 2/3 the cost gets you dry and heated. Build the other 1/3 when your check book cools down. If you ever get to NE WI let me know. You're welcome to stop in and check out our messy shed we like so much.

Not my videos... I've said it before. We did all of our tillage with the 1026 for decades. 5-16 plow. 24 foot drag. Rather small 14 or 16 foot disc but all in solid red clay and heavy hills. Never had any trans related issues. Lost a turbo chopping straw one year. Tore the pinion shaft out due to a crushed oil line at factory assembly but only after 40 years of use. Tach quit at 9xxx hours when I was still in school (1990?). Lasted another two decades before the pinion broke. It also did all of the harvest. Chopped hay and straw. Was excellent on the round baler. And drug chopper and wagons through the mud in fall to chop corn. We ran roughly 300 acres give or take. Only tractor dad ever purchased new. The key to its longevity was new oil and filters every year. A barrel of hytran every year was just considered normal maintenance and cheaper than a new hydro or different tractor. I love the 10. We also had a 656 hydro D282 for many years as a loader tractor. That one was also used for spraying with saddles, cultivating, and cutting hay. Miss that one. Keeping my eyes out for another hydro. Ya never know...

I like your barrel. The graying of the HF white might be just a difference in temp or duration like I mentioned earlier. It may have discolored because it burnt. Indeed you will get better results with more trial and error. Keep the pics coming.

We just got back from a long weekend away and sho-nuff. The package was delivered. Thank you so much to the members here who looked for me and of course a big thank you to @stronger800 for coming through for me. PM sent.