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pirlbeck

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About pirlbeck

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  1. Thanks guys, that helped a bunch!
  2. OK, thanks for the help. How common is it for the clutch to have a problem for it to slip under heavy load? Customer was stuck with the tractor and he said while the front wheels were turning he didn't think they were spinning like they should of been. I have seen similar problems with green tractors when they would loose the splines in several of the MFWD clutch disks.
  3. Can the MFWD clutch be removed without splitting the tractor similar to the way it will come out on the later 71X0 series and all of the 72x0 & 89X0 tractors? This is a 2004 model with S/N JAZ133XXX. Thanks!
  4. Thanks, but that is the old style dipstick, just like the one I have.
  5. We put a rebuilt range cover on this customers 706 that I posted about a few days ago that had the water in the hyd oil and I need a measurement on how far the trans dipstick tube should extend above the boss on the cover. Even though this is a later (SN 44,XXX) 706 with the D310 German diesel, it did not have a range cover that was made for a tube for the dipstick. The parts listing shows the dipstick and tube changing at SN9412, so someone must of replaced this with earlier parts. If someone could get me the distance from the top of the tube to the boss on the shift cover along with some dipstick measurements that would be a great help. Searching on this site I did find a post from several years ago where johnny_red was looking for similar info, but he never got the answers he was looking for. My dipstick looks exactly like the one he has pictured. Thanks!
  6. I think there is a good chance it is the voltage regulator. I have really struggled to find a decent quality regulator for a 10DN external regulated alternator system the last 10 years or so. A lot of working tractors we change over to the 10SI with an internal regulator, but i am working on a 1456 of my own and I have had 3 new regulators on it and they either don't charge or the idiot light don't work. I have checked the wiring out and can not find any wiring problems at all, I have had an working older regulator and it works fine. I have tried a "made in USA" NAPA regulator and it didn't work either. And yes, I am aware that it takes a regulator that supports the idiot light for this application. Anyone have any luck finding a decent quality external regulator? Thanks!
  7. I wouldn't say quickly, more like over a period of 2-3 years. And I don't know if I would call it gallons of water, when we let it sit and drain the bottom off we have never gotten that much water out of it. It is really hard to say on the amount of water in it, I know it is enough to turn the oil milky and eventually plug the hyd filter. We only see the tractor when it gets bad enough to cause problems or when the tractor has other problems. But I do tend to agree with you, I for sure don't feel like we found the "smoking gun".
  8. We definitely get more oil/water out when we raise the front of the tractor. We also put open couplers in the hyd couplers and put the remotes on float and we get more oil out of the aux valves when we raise the tractor. We usually raise it over the weekend and then let it sit level with the plugs out for a while before we refill it with new oil. We also disconnect as many hyd lines as feasible. We do know where all of the plugs are at and in this case we have the PTO unit out and tore down for a rebuild. Thanks!
  9. OK, we pressurized the rear end with a little air pressure and used soap all over looking for leaks and we found a number of them. I am not real sure what we found would account for the amount of water we were getting in this thing, but we are going to repair what we found and retest. The shift shaft o-rings leak on all of the shafts that go into the top of the speed and ranger covers. The 1000 RPM PTO shaft seal leaks around the OD of the seal, but I don't think that was allowing any water in. With soap testing we found no leakage at any of the covers and plates. We now have the speed and range cover off and the gaskets were not failed or damaged.
  10. I have a customers 706 that has a history of having/getting water in the hydraulic system, and I think it is more then just condensation. Tractor does not have a loader on it so it is not coming from the loader cylinders. Tractor just runs an auger, so it never gets warmed up enough to " cook" the water off. And once they have water in the system it is very hard to get it all out. Tractor sits out in the fall when on the auger but otherwise it is in the shed. We usually disconnect the cooler lines and blow them out and remove the steering lines and work the wheels back and forth. We also pick the front of the tractor up pretty high with a fork lift and let it sit several days with the drain plugs out and yet there still seems to be some water in the system after we put new oil in. Any common areas to look at for this problem? I know there are o-rings on the speed and range shift shafts where they enter the covers, but even if they were missing I don't know if it would let much water in. We are also wondering about a bad gasket somewhere but I think most areas would cause an oil leak if a chunk of gasket was missing or misplaced. We are going to try to pressurize the rear end with air and see if we can come up with anything that way, but looking for suggestions on where to look closely. Thanks!
  11. pirlbeck

    1660 brakes

    The brakes on my Cummins equipped 1660 work pretty decent. When I got the machine 6 or 7 years ago I tore them down and cleaned everything up as things were kind of rusty. Later machines had 4 disks on each side instead of 3 and mine does have the 4th disk. I run a shop and thru the years I have had customers tell me they didn't need brakes on a hydro machine. We are in the rolling area of western Iowa and I always told them if it ever jumps out of gear or someone accidentally pulls the trans into neutral they were going to wish they had decent brakes real quick.
  12. I know you are in Australia, but I would try to get my hands on a set of ARP high strength head studs from this place. Besides helping with head gasket life, they will guide the head back on so you don't damage the new gasket. https://www.murphysmotorservice.com/Fasteners.php
  13. We just had a 1086 in the shop that acted very similar, but the MCV pump would totally quit anytime the front end was up hill and the auxiliary valves were being used. Turned out the MCV pump gear retaining nut had came off of the MCV and either the nut or the shaft key had totally wiped out the pump shaft seal. The gear could not move enough for the gear or the key to come completely out, so the pump was still turning and worked OK when it was submerged in oil. Evidently the super charge line supplied enough oil to the pump when ever the auxiliary valve were in neutral that it worked OK then.
  14. We usually take the center section with the engine and then remove the center section from the engine after it is rolled out into the open. It takes a pretty well built stand and it must be mounted so the stand wheels are quite a ways to the rear of the engine for balance. A cherry picker will work if you can get it under the fuel tank support, unless you have removed all of that which we never do as it is a lot of unnecessary work.
  15. The bolt is under (above) the Tee shaped cover on the bottom of the TA housing.
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