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pirlbeck

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  1. We removed the axle sensor pot, and the linkage is/was not binding. We ohm tested the pot and got some erratic readings so we replaced the sensor pot and lubricated the pot actuator shaft while we had it apart. We did run into something interesting with the 2 larger front accumulators when we took a look at them. They had Agco stickers on them and recommended charge pressure of 1985PSI, which is way over the Case-IH accumulator charge pressure of 856-899PSI and when we checked them they were charged in the 1700 + PSI range, so we lowered the pressure to the recommended pressures. The TMF controller software is ver. 2.10, the trans controller is ver. 2.8 and the arm controller is ver. 2.9. Would anyone know the latest versions of the available software. The tractor SN is Z7RZ05451 After changing the sensor pot and the accumulator pressures we calibrated the FSA which it did with no errors or faults. When test driving it, it still raises and lowers the front end, but it is not as abrupt in its movements. You can hear the hydraulics go on pressure and sometimes it appears to stay on pressure for several seconds or longer. One other thing is that the Suspended Front Axle switch on the control console does not seem to work as described in the owners manual. The switch light never comes on, the "Suspended Axle Locked" icon on the corner post display does not illuminate and it does not lock the axle in the mid position. The corner post icon will illuminate momentarily while it is doing the calibration routine, so it does work. My gut feeling is that something is still not 100% correct, but we have never been around a red tractor with SFA so we don't have anything to compare it to. This tractor is new to this owner and first SFA tractor and his only complaint was the fault codes and the beeping from setting the codes. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  2. SDman, This one has 2 accumulators in the front center of the tractor, but there is also an accumulator on the LH side, just forward of the LH fuel tank, close in next to the frame/housing. This accumulator has a steel line running across and tee's into a fitting at the front of the SFA valve. So it looks to me like there are three accumulators that tie in the the SFA system. I also know Nate was able to view SFA piston and ram pressures in the trans view on the corner post. From the info you provided above, I am guessing this may be the "middle" style. The tractor SN is Z7RZ05451 We have looked at the SFA pot linkage and while we have not disconnected it, the lever and shaft will move in and out just a little bit with no apparent binding. I do not think he has checked accumulator charge, but I thought Nate might of said something about seeing an accumulator charge pressure in the trans view menu......I am not sure how that would be possible, as I don't think there is any sort of sensor on the charge port end of the accumulator. We do have the equipment to check and charge the accumulators, so that and the pot linkage will be next on our list of things to try. We will also try to find out if the TMF software is up to date. In your experience, what we are seeing with the front end raising and then settling you would not be consider it to be normal...is that correct? Thanks a bunch! Pat
  3. I bet I can out wait you........customer don't need it until harvest.
  4. We have a customers Magnum 305 that came in for suspended front axle codes. We tracked the code problem down to a 6 inch length of the harness going to the suspended axle valve that all the wires were bare. Not sure what happened, because it looked like heat damage to the harness, but the harness does not run close to the exhaust system. Anyway, after repairing the harness damage and calibrating (it calibrated just fine) when we drive it the front end is raising itself and then creeping back down about every 5 to 10 seconds. It is most noticeable driving it slow on a smooth surface. When we drive it faster on a rough surface I think the normal action of the suspended axle prevents us from noticing the raising and settling. We tried swapping the solenoid valves and it did not make a difference. If we shut the tractor down with the axle cylinders extended, it does not settle to the stops, so we don't think it is a bad cylinder piston packing, Looking for input if this could be normal or if we need to keep looking? Any help or suggestions appreciated. Thanks!
  5. Bob from Storm Creek Governors, Carroll Iowa does them and you will not be disappointed in the quality of his work. He has a user name on this site and he has posted some in the past. I am not sure what his user name is here, but here are a couple of links to articles I found on the web with some contact info in them. https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=34143 https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=1064523
  6. Sorry, but I just got notification of this post a little while ago. I do not have a manual for it, but it was made by OTC tool company (originally Owatonna Tool Company, Owatonna, MN) and they are still in business, but now owned by Bosch. I would start with talking to them for parts and a book. Bosch Automotive Service Solutions 28635 Mound Road, Warren, MI 48092 USA Customer Service: 1-800-533-6127 Tech Service: 1-800-533-6127 Email: inquiry@service-solutions.com
  7. The gasket is available from A&I
  8. ASAP in Downing is not showing any, unless they maybe just tore something down and don't have it in inventory yet. The Salem, SD location is the only other ASAP location that shows one.
  9. One other thing, I have had a number of them that when the bearing fails it wrecks the bore in the housing for the bearing race and seals and then the bearings won't last. I have a machine shop that will rebuild them, either by welding or brazing them up and re-machining the bores or boring and putting a sleeve insert in the bores.
  10. Here is link to the official release of the new USA product. These are made in Dewitt, NE by Malco, in the same factory the original ones were made. https://www.eaglegripusa.com/product_cat/locking-pliers/ One on Amazon priced at $38.24 The first one I looked at on Amazon was out of stock. https://www.amazon.com/Malco-LP7R-Straight-Locking-Pliers/dp/B0924RJNPQ/
  11. Are you in Wisconsin? If so you might try these guys, they show to have one. One thing to be aware of is that the very early ones only used 3 bolts on the bearing retainer plate and later ones had 6 bolts which is a better deal, especially if you have a loader on it. I have drilled and tapped the early ones for the 3 extra bolt holes. All States AG Parts, Inc - Black Creek, WI 877-530-2010 Or Hy-Cap shows new ones in stock. If this lead don't pan out or you are not in Wisconsin, let me know as there are some other places around that show some.
  12. This should not be related to your recent oil & filter change, but I have seen this problem caused by a broken tube in the rear end housing. This tube comes off of the bottom of the 3pt valve/cylinder and runs down and the end of it sticks part way into the end of the hyd pump supply suction tube. It is sort of a super charge line that sends return oil from the 3pt valve area into the hyd pump suction tube. If this line has any sort of crack or hole in it above the rear end oil level it will allow air into the hyd pump circuit. If you pull the 3rd link cover you can see where it attaches under the rockshaft housing. The part number of this upper portion of this tube is 66146C1 and it is shown under DRIVE TRAIN, REAR FRAME, SPACER AND COVER under the chassis section on the 666 parts listing. Earlier tractors (656) had a chunk of rubber hose in this line that would fail, but I think on later tractors it is a metal tube its entire length. I had a Hydro 70 once that the tube was just starting to crack where the end flange was attached to the pipe and it was not very easy to see the problem, I think we finally found it by pulling the pipe and inspection it.
  13. We have not seen a second failure in any of the red tractors that we installed the updated drum it. I can't sat that about the green ones though. I discussed this problem with a transmission engineer from JD and while they are aware of the problem, their contention is that it is an operator problem and not a design problem.
  14. Is the tractor used on any sort of large honey wagon or grain wagon/cart? If used in the hills and the operator allows the push to overspeed the engine/transmission they will fry the reverse clutch pack. Case IH has a revised clutch drum that bleeds the oil off behind the clutch piston and prevents what is referred to as "centrifugal engagement". We are in a somewhat hilly area of western Iowa and we see this problem in both the Red and green powershift tractors. A poster here by the name of Farmall advised me about the replacement reverse drum.
  15. Here is a copy and paste of a post I made a number of years ago that may give you some help on getting this job done correctly the first time. I have learned the hard way after having a 407 score several pistons in the first few hours (the very first time it was put under load) after an inflame rebuild that the only way to rebuild these engines (361 & 407) is to take them down to the bare block, have the block bored for oversized OD liners (My supplier offers them in .002,.005 & .010 OD for 361 & 407 engines and I use the .010) and after the liners are installed have them honed with a rigid hone (preferably with a power hone table) to true them up and get the piston skirt clearances to the hi side of the spec. Be sure to follow the procedure in the IH service manual for the proper press fit specs and for the sleeve height. Unlike most engines, the sleeves they do not get pressed in until they bottom in the counterbore. IH offered a special pressing plate that located the sleeve at the proper height. My machine shop says that the blocks get very distorted from age and heat and the sleeve bores are not true from top to bottom or round at all either. Boring/honing oversize gives you a straight, true, round bore to press the liner into. They also say that after pressing the new liners in the fresh bore and checking them with a bore gauge they are still not true at all with many high/low spots. They feel that due to how thin these liners are the manufacture cannot hold the tolerances very well when they machine them. On this engine the liners fit in the block and the piston to liner clearances are very critical. Be sure you are using a machine shop that understands this and has the proper equipment and expertise to do this job correctly. These are very well built engines and given decent care will run many thousands of hours after a properly performed rebuild.
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