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About pirlbeck

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  1. How long will the harvest be going on for in the Palouse region? I may be out that way sometime around the 20th of August.....would that be too late? Can you give me a name of a town that would be a good place to head for? Thanks!
  2. In 40+ years of working on IH tractors, I have NEVER seen an IH remote valve cause low hydraulic flow or pressure so long as the linkage/lever was fully moving the valve spool. The most common failure is that they leak and next after that is that they let the load settle excessively. Besides the 3pt being in the "run" position, low pressure can be caused a bad pump, a bad relief valve, a blown pump pressure seal to rear frame or a problem/leak in the 3pt hitch valve. Unless your remote valve problem was a leaking problem or a settling problem, I don't think the power beyond valve did anything to correct your problem.
  3. Yes, 4BT Cummins, badged as a Komatsu/Dresser. Data tag says 96HP @2300 RPM
  4. We are in the process of pulling the 3.9L engine from a Komatsu/Dresser TD9H and we are not sure what the best way is to handle the torque converter and hydraulic pump on the rear of the torque converter. We mostly work on farm tractors so we are not real familiar with these torque converter setups. It appears that our choices are to disconnect the hoses and leave the pump bolted on the rear of the converter or remove one of the rear covers on the torque converter and leave the pump and the attached cover with the dozer. This unit is equipped with a Rockford model C-1128 torque converter. I am trying to get my hands on a manual for this unit, but I am not having much luck finding one for the early SN range that this machine fits in. My SN is P046018. Here are a couple of shots of what I am looking at. Thanks!
  5. If the tractor is equipped with differential lock you could try engaging it and see if it moves then.
  6. I know this subject has been discussed several times and if a similar fix has already been posted, I apologize, but I thought I would show a simple fix for the battery covers that won't stay on. I had a local welding shop shear and bend a light piece of sheet metal and then tack weld it in to square up the bottom of the cover where it rests on the top of the battery. So far it looks like it is going to work OK . Hopefully I will get a picture or 3 posted.
  7. What are you using for a 37 degree flaring tool? What does it cost to get set up to make these tubes, say just -4, -6 and -8 sizes? Thanks!
  8. X2 A number of years ago, one fall I had 2 7140's break the splined end off of the speed input shaft. The first one had 9378 hours on it and the second one had 5788 hours on the clock. Both were early SN tractors so it was not possible to put the later, updated speed input shaft in them.
  9. Where are you coming up with the new seat line? Are you making them or having them made?
  10. Cylinders are a different part numbers, 1349019C1 for the left one and 1349018C1 for the right. Parts list does not show a number for the cylinder tube alone, but the rods are shown and they are a different part number. And like the other posters have stated I am pretty sure your problem is not in the hand pump
  11. I guess it just has not made it to the top of the "to do" list.
  12. Good point, but I don't have an owners manual. ☹️
  13. Anyone have any close up rear view pictures of what the factory rear work light setup was on a 1970 1456? This is a non cab tractor with deluxe flat top fenders. Also did these tractors come with the auxiliary plug? One or two warning lights? I tried searching here and on the net and there are so many different set ups I am not sure what is factory and what was add on. Some appear to be lights relocated from the cab when it was removed. Thanks!
  14. OK, to answer a few questions and clear a few things up. I am not working on this tractor nor have I even seen it. I had a call from a young man that was referred to me by his FIL who is a customer of mine. He ordered a kit for his 706 gas and when he tore it down he found out that the bore was too large to accept the liners. He also said that the block is stamped C263. He did say it had 3 ring pistons and I am thinking the M&W used a 5 ring pistons so it may of been an IH kit that was last installed. My dad bought a 656 gas new in the late 1960's and in the late 1970's when my brother owned it we rebuilt it with an M&W C291 overbore kit, but my memory is a little fuzzy as this was over 40 years ago. As far as the C-291's dropping sleeves, I have only seen it myself several times and it was never on an engine we had rebuilt. But I do know it was not an uncommon thing to happen.
  15. I was given the following specs from a large ag engine parts supplier. C263 liner OD 3.560, flange OD 3.680 C291 liner OD 3.877 flange OD 3.930 If these specs are correct then boring the C263 counter-bore larger to the C291 spec. should work. Or was I given incorrect info? If C291 liners are a "heavy press fit" why was it so common for them to drop the liner into the oil pan?
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