pirlbeck

We removed the timing cover, the gear just will not move enough to jump the teeth with the cover on. And to answer your other question, one of the very first things we did was confirm valve timing along with setting the valve lash. And when we had the timing cover off, we checked the crank and cam gear marks for alignment.

We jumped the injection pump drive gear 2 teeth, got the pump timed to the 8 degree spec and it stars and runs amazingly well. I know it is not the middle of winter but these 1206's were never know to be great starters, but it fires right up now without either which is a tremendous improvement from not even starting shortly after it was shut off. The injection pump shows no signs of having a bad governor cushioning ring, no rubber particles in the timing window or fuel return check valve and it does not have the gallop at part throttle typical with a failed cushioning ring, so starting with an injection pump rebuild would of been a waste of money and would of fixed nothing.

And yes , the engine did sound like the timing was advanced.

If we would have been able to jump the gear it would’ve been the quickest, cheapest, simplest fix to try first. Once we knew we couldn’t jump the gear that changed things.

I do know how to time an injection pump, I have been working on diesel equipment for over 50 years, I just never had the need to try to jump the drive gear on a 361/407, so I didn’t know if it could be done without pulling the timing cover. I know nothing about the history of this tractor, I bought it at least 5 years ago with the intention of taking it and another 1206 I have and making one nice one out of the 2 and selling the left over parts. Until a month ago, it had not been run it was unloaded and parked. I have since purchased a 1456, so I would rather restore it and sell the 2 1206’s. I just want to get this thing to start without either at least when it is somewhat warm out or a the very least after it is warmed up so I can sell it.

Well, I have an answer and it is not what I was hoping for. Even with the injection pump off, the drive housing and the drive housing adapter plate off, there is still not enough movement of the gear to disengage the gear teeth and jump the drive gear on the idler gear. It looks like we are going to be rolling the front end ahead and pulling the timing cover. This is probably the right way to do it, as then I can make sure that the camshaft is in time. Thanks for the replies!

I have a 1206 that starts very hard and the injection pump is timed at 21 degrees before TDC instead of 8 that the spec calls for, and that is with the pump fully rotated to the end of the slots. If I pull the pump and drive adapter back until the pump drive shaft is out of the injection pump drive gear will, I be able to move the injection pump drive gear out from the idler gear enough to jump it a tooth (or two?). I don't really want to pull the timing cover if I don't have to. I have never had a reason to try this before, but I am hoping someone else has. Thanks!

From past experience it seems like All States Ag Parts is not very good about keeping their online inventory up to date. If you just checked with them I think it is very unlikely that they have one now.

These place show to have a used one. You will need to call them to know for sure. What is wrong with your old valve? 660-885-2287 cooktractorparts.com Cook Tractor Parts 207 N.W. 160 Clinton, MO 64735 800-543-2535 mikesequipment.com Mikes Equipment 9716 E. 82nd Ave. Buhler, KS 67522 800-992-5346 wellingtontractorparts.com Wellington Tractor Parts 3769 US Hwy 83 Wellington, TX 79095 This place MAY have a new one. 815-580-3247 machinerypartswarehouse.com Machinery Parts Warehouse 2702 May Rd. Peru, IL 61354

Tractor has a belt drive pump on it now that is shot and we are looking to get away from the belt drive pump.

For plumbing simplicity I would like something with a built in relief valve and I want it non adjustable as this unit has a bunch of operators that like to mess with stuff.

I am looking for Gresen (now Parker) flow divider valve. These valves were commonly used to divert 3 GPM of main hydraulic pump flow to operate a Char-Lynn power steering unit. I think a lot of the M Farmalls were set up with one of these valves when the live hydraulic pump and power steering were added. They would typically have 2 1/2" NPT ports marked P (pump) and EF (excess flow) and 2 3/8" NPT ports marked T (tank) and CF (controlled flow). They had a built in relief valve for the steering flow. They were also available with SAE #8 & 10 ORB ports. I think they may still be available from Parker but my customer didn't like the price and the lead time. I did locate a 4-GPM valve that I may be able to make work, but a 3 GPM will give us decent power steering and not slow the main hydraulics down any more than necessary. Here is a link to the Parker catalog page showing the valve. https://ph.parker.com/us/en/product/constant-volume-priority-flow-co... My email is in my profile. Thanks!

I got it, thanks a bunch!!

Would you be able to email me the PDF file if I gave you an email address? Thanks!

We are trying to sort out the light wiring on a customers 686D and the wiring is a mess with a number of wires cut off and just hanging there. Some sort of wiring diagram would be a big help or otherwise at the very least we need to know where the light fuse holder gets its power from. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!