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pirlbeck

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About pirlbeck

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  1. I have been using it on an almost daily basis for the last couple of weeks and while I don't see where it is an improvement at all and I do agree the lack of the NLA part numbers is a major flaw, I had been getting along OK with it until yesterday. As of yesterday, the only thing I can get it to display is the parts breakdown drawings and no part numbers or part descriptions. I am aware of the 3 selection boxes in the upper LH corner where you can chose from either displaying both the drawing and part number listing or just the drawing or just the part number/description listing and changing them makes no difference. I restarted my computer this morning and it also made no difference. I finally went to Messick's website and used their parts books to get the numbers I needed. I am on a Windows 10 machine using Google Chrome for a browser, but it was working OK prior to yesterday. Anyone else having similar problems? Thanks! Edit to add, just checked, it is working now.
  2. What about a wheat-land, they had an external cylinder, and on the parts listing drawing it looks like hoses going to it. With the "new and improved" (NOT) parts website I can't get a description of the hose/line as it must NLA from Case-IH. Also, the OP could be calling the cooler hoses steering lines.
  3. Gate on baler won't stay closed when he starts getting any sort of bale in it. He also had problems with other implements dropping during road travel. I am pretty sure it is not a linkage problem, most of the time the linkage on an 86 series has enough "slop" for the spool to center itself.
  4. I have a customer with a 1086 with the PPH closed center system that both aux valves will not hold a load at all. Has anyone found a fix for this problem short of replacing the complete valve? I am thinking it is caused by either excessive valve spool clearance in the bore or a problem with the load check ball seat. I think in the past we replaced some of these with used valves, but getting good used ones is going to be a crap shoot. Does anyone rebuild these valves? I am thinking to rebuild them properly, it would take re-chroming and grinding the spools and then fitting them to the valve bores. We have not seen the tractor or tried anything to repair it yet, so I suppose it could be a simple problem with the load checks in the valves, but it seems like in the past that was not the case. I am pretty sure there have been posts about this exact problem on this forum in the past, but I could not turn anything up with a search. Thanks!
  5. I believe that tractor should have a 3 cylinder D600 engine in it. This would be the same engine as in the 782 diesel Cub Cadet. I have 2 of them and the engines are great. r
  6. I don't think anyone mentioned this yet, but the wrong split gasket between the clutch housing and rear end housing will cause differential failure due to lack of lube oil being supplied to the R&P and diff. I think there is a pretty good chance the wrong split gasket was used when the work was performed several years ago.
  7. Just to clarify, the bolts are not breaking, the cracking I mentioned refers to the noise they make while being torqued. As far as the torque wrench being used, it is a fairly new Snap On Digital Tech/Angle. This is the style that keeps track of the rotation after the initial torque is reached for torque turn fasteners. The problem has NOTHING to do with the torque procudure or the tools we are using and is all about the cap screws being supplied by FP Diesel/Federal-Mogul.
  8. I am pretty sure Absolute was started by some former Reliance employees that were not happy with the direction Reliance was going with the new owners/management. I have been getting some Absolute engine parts from Riley Tractor Parts. I think Absolute is working on adding part numbers and building inventory, which I am sure has been somewhat difficult with the whole Covid 19 thing. Also, Riley's hired several of Tom's Agri-Diesels former employees and they are working out of an office in Harlan Iowa.
  9. We are rebuilding a 986 D-436 engine and when we went to torque the rod bolts, once they started getting close to the final torque, they would snap, crack and jump. Everyone we tried would do this. This was with plenty of 30W engine oil being used for lube. We then tried the old rod bolts and they torqued normally. We then purchased a new set of OEM rod bolts and they torqued just fine also. We did another 986 in March and the rod bolts came from the same engine parts distributor, but I am not sure who supplied those bolts to the distributor, but they likely were FP Diesel too and we did not notice any problems with them. The bolts would thread into the rods with fingers until they started to get tight and then the binding started, so it was not mis-cut threads. My tech that does most of our engine rebuilds feels like something was wrong with the under side of the head causing them to have excess friction when they started to get tight. Anyone ever seen this? Thanks!
  10. What is the going rate to OH and calibrate a Model 100 injection pump, labor only, not including any parts. Thanks!
  11. Are you aware of the service bulletin IH had out for the earlier S/N 88's for a clutch drag problem? It involved changing the clutch pedal shaft/arm to one with a longer lever on it where the cable attached to it. This change gave the master clutch spool more travel to dump the clutch pressure. Also the bulletin required a different spool in the lube valve that sent less lube oil to the clutch when it was released. Usually these items only caused clutch drag with very cold oil. That bulletin is #S-4763 and it came out in June 1984. Any Case-IH dealer should be able to print it for you.
  12. Other then spool o-ring leaks and very rarely a broken spool to piston retaining screw, I have seen very few brake problems caused by the brake valve. As the other replies have stated, most likely you will find your problem inside in the brakes themselves.
  13. You are talking about it jumping out of the hi range gear, as in low, hi and reverse....correct? The old straight cut gear IH drive trains tend to be naturally noisey, but does the noise change much from pulling to coasting, like when you crest a hill?
  14. That looks like the style that you can remove the cotter pin and screw the end cap in to tighten it.
  15. So long as the clutch disk spring center is in good shape and the PTO splines are not shot you will be fine reusing the clutch so long as it is not worn so bad that the pressure plate does not have enough spring tension on the clutch disk when bolted together. You can check this by putting the flywheel on the bench, setting the clutch disk in and putting the pressure plate on top. Then look at the distance from the pressure plate mounting surface on the flywheel and the underneath side of the pressure plate. I would say you need a minimum of 1/8" and 3/16" or so would be better.
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