Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About pirlbeck

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,370 profile views
  1. OK, to answer a few questions and clear a few things up. I am not working on this tractor nor have I even seen it. I had a call from a young man that was referred to me by his FIL who is a customer of mine. He ordered a kit for his 706 gas and when he tore it down he found out that the bore was too large to accept the liners. He also said that the block is stamped C263. He did say it had 3 ring pistons and I am thinking the M&W used a 5 ring pistons so it may of been an IH kit that was last installed. My dad bought a 656 gas new in the late 1960's and in the late 1970's when my brother owned it we rebuilt it with an M&W C291 overbore kit, but my memory is a little fuzzy as this was over 40 years ago. As far as the C-291's dropping sleeves, I have only seen it myself several times and it was never on an engine we had rebuilt. But I do know it was not an uncommon thing to happen.
  2. I was given the following specs from a large ag engine parts supplier. C263 liner OD 3.560, flange OD 3.680 C291 liner OD 3.877 flange OD 3.930 If these specs are correct then boring the C263 counter-bore larger to the C291 spec. should work. Or was I given incorrect info? If C291 liners are a "heavy press fit" why was it so common for them to drop the liner into the oil pan?
  3. Years ago you could buy (from M&W I think) a special overbore liner to take a C263 out to a C291. What was special about this liner was that it only required boring the block bore and did not require re-boring the upper counter bore, as the new C291 liner had the same flange OD as the stock C263 liner. Anyway, I am having trouble finding anyone that still makes this liner, would anyone know where I could find some? Or has anyone tried to machine the C291 liner down to the C263 OD? My fear is that these dry liners are pretty thin and fragile and it may not be easy to machine them without ruining them. I am looking for these for a customer and he would prefer not to replace the block or try to have the block counter bores re-machined larger. Just looking for ideas. Thanks!
  4. I would want an honest answer to this before I would even consider purchasing this tractor for anymore then salvage value.
  5. If the hitch pump suction tube was out of place it could cause the MCV pump to cavitate. I seems like problems in the filter circuit always show up worse in the MCV side. I would for sure be checking it when the oil was drained and I had the hydraulic filter out of it. The fact that the steering works better at an idle vs hi RPM's makes me think it is more of a pump suction side problem then a pump pressure side problem.
  6. I am not sure what tube and seal you are talking about finding by pulling the MCV as the MCV pump does not use a suction tube. I suspect you are thinking about the hitch pump as that uses the seal and suction tube. If the tube was not installed into the pump all the way that could cause the problems that the OP is having. That can be checked by pulling the hydraulic filters and then the tin baffle behind the filter. Just be aware that if the suction tube is not started into the pump at all, pulling the filter cover will drain most of the rear end oil out the filter cavity.
  7. Well, I just rebuilt the range shift on it so I shouldn't need to that again. Do you have a nice factory bends only line? My line is pretty much a bent up mess and it leaks. I could braze the leak but I would like a line in nice condition. I will send you a PM. Thanks!
  8. That's what I was thinking too. I already had a call into them before that picture was posted, still waiting for a call back from Allen.
  9. How old is that picture? Mind sharing where that tractor is sitting? I need the hydraulic seat line that comes off of the steering pilot valve and runs back under the platform. Was hydraulic seat standard on a 1456? I also am looking for the fuel line from the tank shutoff to the primary fuel filter. Thanks!
  10. Pics please.......of what? Tractor is not much to look at right now as all of the sheet metal, fenders and seat are off of it. Wheels are set real wide to work on it too.
  11. For sure! I was thinking I would have to pull the valve off to do anything with it which I was not looking forward to as it would require removal of the starter. After looking at it, I decided the rear cover could be pulled off without much work, so it turned out to be a pretty simple fix.
  12. I pulled the end cover off of the pilot valve and the spool was stuck. I tapped it in a little and grabbed the end with a pair of pliers and worked it back and forth till it worked free. Put the end cap back on and it steers now.
  13. I have not confirmed/tested regulated pressure yet. I was hoping just to get this thing out of its stall for now, as I really need the room for customers tractors. The steering relief is in its bore with a new o-ring installed. I am starting to think I just as well pull the MCV and see if I messed something up in it. Thanks for your reply.
  14. I bought a 1456 last winter that had been parked for years because it "quit moving". I was able to get the engine running last winter, but I could not get it to move nor could I get the steering to work at all. It turned out that the differential spider was ground down till it broke and the rear end was so full of moisture, sludge, fine steel and crap that the hydraulics could not work. Anyway, yesterday I got it running after repairing the diff, and putting a clutch and a TA in. I also tore the MCV clear down and replaced the seals and o-rings (no springs, they were not in the kit and I wanted to get it running) along with a new HyCap MVC pump. When I started it, the MCV pump primed after just a little bit and I had power brakes and 22PSI of lube pressure, but I could not get the steering to work. I can just keep spinning the steering wheel very easily, it acts like the steering hand pump is not getting any oil and speeding the engine up does not make any difference. I did put a new sump check valve in and used grease to hold it in and I did install the steering pressure port o-ring before I installed the MCV. About the only thing I did not check out is the pilot valve that is mounted by the starter on the TA housing. Has anyone ever seen this valve cause a problem like this or do I need to pull the MCV back off? How does a stuck pilot valve spool act? Thanks!
  15. I'm with CIHTECH on this one. If a flywheel fastener is not enough of a "critical" fastener to warrant the use of a torque wrench, what do you even have one for???
  • Create New...