Jump to content

pirlbeck

Members
  • Content Count

    627
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

63 Excellent

About pirlbeck

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

2,080 profile views
  1. Thanks, some of the bends ended up a little "kinkier" then I would of liked. And here I always thought kinky was a good thing.
  2. If you have not had any experience with this sort of drivetrain work, your best bet might be to do the "grunt work".......pressure washing, fuel tank removal, tear down, clean up, swap out non critical parts and then get someone with some experience to help with the more technical aspects of the job. Be sure to get them involved before you have it all torn down, so they have some input into the teardown and organization of parts. As mentioned above keeping track of the location of the various shim packs as well as all the parts big and small can simplify reassembly.
  3. I got a new line fabricated and installed. While it may not be perfect I think it is close enough. Thanks to everyone for the help!
  4. Sorry, not trying to be a jerk, just did not want someone to have a problem with the part number. I discovered the mistake when I went to price the kit.
  5. The part number in the text is wrong. You have listed a B91938 which is a $360.00 lining. The correct part number for the o-ring kit is B91398. It is kind of pricey though, around $200.00
  6. Yes, I think you are correct. It seems like these lines get bent, modified and screwed up all to often, mostly from sloppy workmanship.
  7. Thanks Long, those pictures will help a bunch.
  8. I agree that the basic shape of the line looks very similar, but the routing is different. I THINK the the routing of TP's line looks more "correct" then Haywires.
  9. That makes perfect sense given what I have left of the OEM line still on there. Maybe there was a reason IH felt they needed to keep it tucked in under the fuel tank directly to the rear of the engine. But I can't think of any attachment/option that it could interfere with. Or maybe it was to lessen the chance of vibration or cracking as I mentioned above. Anyway thanks a bunch...that is exactly what I needed to finish fabricating one.
  10. Although my picture does not show it very well, this one has a pretty tight 180 bend back at the shut off bend, which I think is correct. I don't think an S bend would be needed to get it routed, but they may of made it that way for vibration and resistance to cracking. A picture would be a great help. Thanks for your reply!
  11. I am making a new fuel line from the tank shut off valve to the fuel filter inlet for my 1456 and would like to see a few shots of the factory line if anyone would have one available. My line has been cut off and a hose installed part way in-between, but the front part that is left don't look like it is shaped correctly. I looked it up on the parts listing and the picture they have drawn is not a lot of help either. They do not list a part number of the OEM line, but I would guess a 1256 would be the same. Here is a picture of what I have on the tractor now. I don't think the 90 bend on
  12. About 10 years ago I bought a Bridgeport mill and in order to keep the factory 3PH motor on it, I powered it with a VFD. Even though the Bridgeport is a variable speed machine, I very rarely crank the V/S control on the Bridgeport but use the VFD for the speed I want as it is much handier/quicker. When I was doing some work on my older step pulley turning lathe, I took the 1PH motor off and installed a 3PH motor so I could control the speed with a VFD to control the speed. There is a ton of programable settings on most VFD and it took some time studying the manual to figure out how I wan
×
×
  • Create New...