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About pirlbeck

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  1. Axial Flow engine gear case leak repair question

    I don't think a bearing would work very well due to the limited rotation the shaft would see in the bearing. It is only going to rotate a few degrees, only what the spring center in the drive plate will give. I think it may cause the bearing balls to hammer into the inner and outer races. I don't know that for fact though....just speculation on my part. Thanks!
  2. Axial Flow engine gear case leak repair question

    SDman, Thanks for the reply and for the bulletin. I think the short life may of been caused by a couple of factors.......aftermarket shaft not hard enough in pilot area and the damping springs too weak in aftermarket drive plate. Ever since I worked on this it seemed to have more rattle/vibration in the belt that runs forward off of the engine out put. To the point that the belt tightener rattle enough at idle that I put a spring on the tail end of the tightener bolt. Also, I thought that the pulley on the end of the shaft had more run out then I should of had. Hopefully OEM parts will correct this. I think I will squeeze a little extra Molycote into the. Thanks again!
  3. Axial Flow engine gear case leak repair question

    The type of lube in the gear box has no bearing on the pilot bushing wear. The only lubrication the pilot bushing get is what it was lubed with when assembled. The procedure for the specked Molycote lube is to apply it to the shaft in the bushing contact area and some to the ID of the bushing. It comes in a small tube and is somewhat expensive. I am thinking if I fill the pilot bushing cavity the lube may be there for a lot longer period of time.
  4. After the season in 2013 I rebuilt the engine gear case in my 1660 to repair an input shaft leak. At the time I was only combining about a 100 acres a year with it, so being cheap I used an aftermarket shaft, pilot bushing and drive plate . Since then my nephew started farming about 600 acres so the last 3 years the machine has went over around 700 acres. Anyway, this last fall the engine gear case started leaking REAL bad........like 1/2 to 3/4 gallon a day. We just keep adding oil to it and kept running and finished the season. Today I pulled the gear case off and the pilot bushing area of the new shaft is worn pretty bad and it looks like the pilot bushing in the flywheel is worn pretty bad too. I am sure I lubed the shaft and bushing up with Molycote -G-N paste lube (as called for in the service manual) but there is no sign of it anywhere now. I am going to put it back together with OEM parts and was thinking about filling the pilot bushing cavity with some sort of grease instead of the Molycote. What would be the best grease to use here? I was thinking maybe a synthetic grease or??????? As this is a fair sized job, I would really like this repair to last longer then 4 seasons. Anyone have experience with what works and does not work here? Thanks!
  5. 7250 lazy clutch return

    The new, heavier spring seems to of fixed the problem. I still wonder why Case-IH don't want it used on the cast iron clutch pedal. Thanks again! Pat
  6. 7250 lazy clutch return

    OK, thanks for all of the replies and help. Customer says he has put 3 new cables on this thing trying to get it to return. We had already checked/charged the accumulators and while they were a little low, that made no difference. I ordered the 1992620C1 and received it yesterday afternoon and we are going to put it on this morning and see if it fixes the problem. By the way this 1990620C1 spring is painted black, so the color is no longer an indicator of what spring you have. If this does not fix it we will look into adding the springs as suggested by SDman.
  7. 7250 lazy clutch return

    We have a 7250 in the shop that the customer complains about the clutch pedal not fully returning. He says he has replaced the clutch cable at least 2 times in the last couple of years trying to fix this problem. We have removed the clutch pedal and pivot and cleaned and lubed the pivot and adjusted the cable and pedal stop using a pressure gauge on the master clutch test port. It seems to work OK until you shift above 6th gear. When the master clutch pressure increases to full pressure it will not fully return. It does not take much force to pull it up. It has the cast iron pedal and the black clutch return spring. I know you are not suppose to put the stronger, silver spring on with the cast iron pedal but I have never heard an explanation of why not to use the stronger spring. Anyone know why or ever use the stronger spring with the cast iron pedal? Or do we have something else at play here causing it to not return? Thanks!
  8. 7120 fan speed switch replacement???

    I am pretty sure it is the switch as sometimes you have to turn it a little "off' of the actual position of where it should be to get the fan to run. When you play with it a little you can get it to run on all of the speeds.
  9. 7120 fan speed switch replacement???

    Thanks CIHTECH, that was the info I needed!
  10. I need to replace the fan speed switch in my 7120........can it be accessed from inside the cab (I hope) by removing the switch bezel or do I need to lift the cab roof? Thanks!
  11. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    SDman, Yea, I kind of debated if I should mess with the pressures at all. But it is hard to find time to work on my own stuff, so when I do have it in the shop I try to get it 100% . I thought I would see if any of the local dealers even stock the shims it takes for the pressure reducing valve and then decide.
  12. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    I got the valve back together and installed yesterday and so far everything looks good. It sure does pull out of park a LOT easier, which was my main complaint. The regulated pressure is running right around 280 PSI so I may bump that up a little as this thing is turned up some. Also the MC clutch pressure is a little low (140-145) in gears 1-6. In the higher gears it is running at the regulated pressure like it should be. I am hoping bumping the regulated pressure up a little may increase that some too, if not I may have to add shims to the regulator spool springs for it. Thanks to everyone for the help! Pat
  13. Since I have owned (5-6 years) this 7120, when under a full load there is a weird noise that sounds like it is coming from beside or slightly under the RH side of the cab. I would describe it as kind of ringing-moaning noise. It is strictly load and RPM related. The noise is only there at RPM's between 1900 and 2200 and only under heavy load. The gear the trans is in makes no difference, it just needs to be pull hard enough to lug it down to this RPM range. If the load changes enough for the RPM's to increase above or pull down under this RPM range the noise stops. There is no metal or contamination in the hyd oil or filter. I have inspected the exhaust system for leaks and I cannot see any problems. I am about 100% sure it is not an exhaust manifold gasket. I have also looked the turbo crossover tube, hoses and clamps and the intake over good and do not see any problems there. Tractor pulls good and does not smoke excessively. It does still have the muffler under the hood and although it does not sound like the noise is coming from that far forward, I do wonder about it. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks! Pat
  14. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    OK, I have a little more info on this deal. I pulled the shuttle spool out of my valve this morning (something I should of done right away) and it has the slot in one end AND the slotted end is painted/dyed red. I am not sure what this means though as I find no documentation on the color meaning something. I also took a trip to my Worthington Ag Parts store. They have 3 Magnum TCV's in the bin and we looked at the shuttle spools in all there. One had no slots on either end and 2 had slots on one end. The land width and hole configuration looked the same on all of them. I did not remove the inner spool, so I can't say if something is different internally. None of them had any visible coloring on either end. So as of now I am not sure how to tell what the updated one would look like. At least for now I am going to leave my original spool in the valve. I am hoping the red color means something. One other thing we did notice is that one of the valves had a red spring between the plug and spool. Mine and the other 2 at the salvage yard were not colored. At the bottom of page 1 of the 26 page TSB NTR SB 016 96 titled "Troubleshooting the Magnum Transmission Valve" it talks about the skip 1st forward and 1st and 3rd reverse. Here is what it says. " Tractors equipped with EZ shift kits skip 1st forward and 1st and 3rd reverse when shifted into gear from park. This feature allows the operator to skip the slower and often unused 1st speed when starting out. The 1st and 3rd speed gears will be available when down shifting. This characteristic occurs because the detent spool will only receive oil pressure after the L,M,H clutch has been filled (range blocker spool position controls supply to the detent spool, L,M,H and master clutch) This cannot be changed" SDman, my kit came from the Depot obsolete parts warehouse. This was a couple of years ago and I think it was still available from Case-IH, but I could save some money going to the Depot. Thanks to everyone for the help!!
  15. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    SDman, Thanks a lot, that will give me something to have the guys at the salvage yards look for. One place shows to have 5 of them, so maybe they can compare the 5 now that we have some idea of what they are looking for. I saw the reference to the slots going to the spring end on the TSB and wondered if that was something new with the latest valve. Thanks again!