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pirlbeck

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Everything posted by pirlbeck

  1. I have a customers Magnum 305 that won't come out of park at times. We had the operator pull the codes and there were only 2 codes stored, trans 60 & trans 70. Trans 60 is "FNRP pod in illogical state." We see this code quite often and I think it is from the operator holding the pod lever up or in no real position. Trans 70 is "Battery too low for clutch solenoid". I think this is the code that is related to our problem and my question is has anyone seen a shorted park brake or shift solenoid cause this code? I know the park brake solenoid coil is a common problem, but it usually blows a fuse and according to the operator the tractor is not blowing any fuses. The trouble shooting for this code (in the factory service manual) does not really seem to point to any solenoid coil problems, but more to a battery or wiring issue. Again the operator says the batteries are not going dead, the tractor always starts and the alternator is charging fine. Our plan is to try to get the tractor into the shop once they are done using it for the season. Anyone ever run into this code? Thanks!
  2. Maybe.....until you trash the pump. An axial piston pump don't like being cavitated.
  3. I think you need to check the suction tube and the tube seals between the pump and the hyd filter cavity first. The tube may be out of place.
  4. We sent the tractor back out to the customers and have not heard any complaints back. As I stated above, my gut feeling is that it is not 100% working correctly, but it was not real noticeable, so the customer my not even be aware it does this.
  5. Thank you! That is the information I was looking for and it makes prefect sense. I never thought about the different turbo location of the 5X88 series.
  6. I am aware of that being done, but I don't want to chance it. This tractor came from a little ways away and I want it to be 100% when it leaves here.
  7. It seems we have seen plenty of camshaft/lifter failure regardless of the piston/ breather combination used. I like to update the rocker arm stands and breather regardless of pistons/rings/breather used to prevent camshaft/lifter failure.
  8. Yes, that was the recommendation with the wide-gap rings. From what I remember reading it was also recommended for the update rocker arm stands due to the extra amount of oil flooding the side mount breather area.
  9. Anyone know what the differences are on a 5X88 top mounted breather kit vs one for a 1086. The parts listing shows the valve cover top breather housing and the tubes to be different. I want to update to the rocker arm stands with the lube orifices in them on a 1086 we are rebuilding the engine on, and it is recommended to update the side mounter breather to the top mounted to prevent oil carry loss out of the breather. I have located a top mounter breather from a 5088, but I am not sure if it will work. Thanks!
  10. If ALL you are doing to time it is to get the engine on TDC of compression stroke and then line the pump drive marks up, you NEED to listen to Mike and snoshoe and first get the pump marks lined up, remove the gear and rotate the injection pump drive shaft one turn and retry it. Disregard this if you have already tried this, but your symptoms sure sound like this is the problem
  11. Here is a link to a thread I started 2 years ago about an MX210 that had a problem like Maynard is talking about. It may help you with your problem.
  12. It brought $15,500 plus $775.00 buyers premium for a total of 16,275.00. I did not see the tractor so I do not know anymore about it then what is on the auction listing. https://www.equipmentfacts.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/212777725/international-1026?
  13. We are rebuilding a 1086 rear end due to range transmission countershaft bearing failure and replacing all the bearings due to steel damage. When IH updated the axle bearings to matched sets, they came out with an updated bearing adjustment procedure, would anyone be able to supply me with a copy of it? I should already have a copy of it here but I am having trouble finding it. Thanks!
  14. I know a number of years ago I was going to pickup the front worm shaft bearing for an m or 400 and they tried to sell me the high priced full complement bearing, so I had a chance to compare them side by side. The full complement bearing looked and felt a lot heavier and I have seen the lighter version fail pretty bad back when these tractors were being used pretty hard.
  15. The ST678 is probably a full complement bearing, which is a LOT heavier bearing then a standard bearing, not saying it is a $150.00+ better though.
  16. The PTO driven gear has a tapered cone that wedges tight between the gear and the shaft at the front, under the heavy washer. If you could tap the gear forward at the bottom you may get the cone to come loose and let the gear **** forward enough to get the upper PTO shaft/bearing past the gear. Rattling the gear with an air hammer may loosen the tapered cone too. I don't know if I would go that far into it without putting a ramp and carrier in the TA while I was close. Unless you know for a fact that the low side never missed a beat.
  17. While I don't think this is your problem, here is a link to a thread I started several years ago about low even clutch pressure and what it took to repair it.
  18. I have a plastic spacer here in my hand, it measures .215 so a little under 1/4". We have a customers 1086 torn down for a rebuild (spun rod bearing), it has the teflon rear main seal in it, and for some reason who ever put the last rear main seal in it left the spacer ring hang on the crankshaft flange.
  19. When you install the seal retainer you need to have the larger OD part of the seal installer installed on the crankshaft flange to act as a pilot to center the retainer as you tighten the retainer bolts. Also, you can check where the seal is going to end up on the wear sleeve with and without the plastic spacer ring by putting it up against this same (larger OD) part of the installer tool and pushing the seal and wear sleeve tight against the tool. Just be very careful not to damage the seal by cocking the wear sleeve in the seal. I never did come up with what really changed that the spacer ring is needed with the new style Teflon seal. It just seems to me that the basic dimensions of the seal and wear sleeve are pretty much the same as the oil style seal and that the spacer ring should not be needed.
  20. So long as you lubed the shaft before sliding the gears on you should be fine. I just though that looking at the pictures things looked a little "dry". Forcing some oil into the shaft sure would not hurt anything either.
  21. Kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but be sure to lube the shaft and gears when assembling, or they may seize to the shaft on start up, before the pressurized lube oil gets to them. The thrust surfaces of the gears and thrust washers need lubrication also.
  22. Thank you, that sounds correct, right now I am 250 miles from the tractor and I was gone when my helper tore it down last week. And it has been probably 20-25 years since I had the last one torn down.
  23. We have a 1086 with diff lock rear end torn down and we need the LH bull gear pinion shaft and I am coming up with 2 different part numbers for with and without diff lock. I realize the RH one is definitely different as it is hollow for the diff lock clutch shaft, but it seems to me the LH one would be the same either way. The part numbers I come up with for the bull pinion shaft with diff lock is 104676C1 and without diff lock is 104657C1. Anyone know what the differences are? Thanks!
  24. It is the cold start advance solenoid, it MAY only be available from a Bosch authorized diesel shop. Probably a lot cheaper there anyway.
  25. Tractor is a hydro, so I am going to say it must be an 826. Edit to add: Opps, I just noticed that he tells us it is an 826 in his post.
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