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Everything posted by pirlbeck

  1. After the season in 2013 I rebuilt the engine gear case in my 1660 to repair an input shaft leak. At the time I was only combining about a 100 acres a year with it, so being cheap I used an aftermarket shaft, pilot bushing and drive plate . Since then my nephew started farming about 600 acres so the last 3 years the machine has went over around 700 acres. Anyway, this last fall the engine gear case started leaking REAL bad........like 1/2 to 3/4 gallon a day. We just keep adding oil to it and kept running and finished the season. Today I pulled the gear case off and the pilot bushing area of the new shaft is worn pretty bad and it looks like the pilot bushing in the flywheel is worn pretty bad too. I am sure I lubed the shaft and bushing up with Molycote -G-N paste lube (as called for in the service manual) but there is no sign of it anywhere now. I am going to put it back together with OEM parts and was thinking about filling the pilot bushing cavity with some sort of grease instead of the Molycote. What would be the best grease to use here? I was thinking maybe a synthetic grease or??????? As this is a fair sized job, I would really like this repair to last longer then 4 seasons. Anyone have experience with what works and does not work here? Thanks!
  2. 5230 hydraulic problems

    My B-I-L has a 5230 (early one, no neutral in shuttle) that the hydraulics come and go. When the hydraulics are acting up, it will not move at the same time. He has changed the hyd filter and drained the oil and checked the pump suction screen. The screen had some junk in it, but it was not plugged. He did say one range of the power shift has been slipping, so I am guessing that one of the clutch packs are starting to fail. Anyway after the filter was changed and the screen cleaned, it was still acting up for him. I went out there this afternoon to look at it and to see how it acted. I had a pressure gauge plugged into the remote and when I first started it had 2500PSI plus at the remote coupler and the loader seemed to work normal. After a minute or so the loader and steering both quit working and I had very little pressure at the remote. Also the tractor would not move, but I could hear the powershift shift through the four speeds when I moved the shift lever. I played around with it for several minutes or more and all of a sudden I noticed I had power steering again and when I checked it the loader was working and it would move too. I played with it for ten minutes or so and it kept on working all the while. According to my B-I-L it has acted similar to this before but it always eventually quits working again. I had gauges along to check charge pressure and low & hi pressure stand-by, but the tractor is going to need a good cleaning before I can screw DR couplers into it. Anyway, anyone have any idea what could be going on? Could it be a sticking pump compensator, possibly from the drive train issues? Thanks!
  3. Axial Flow engine gear case leak repair question

    I don't think a bearing would work very well due to the limited rotation the shaft would see in the bearing. It is only going to rotate a few degrees, only what the spring center in the drive plate will give. I think it may cause the bearing balls to hammer into the inner and outer races. I don't know that for fact though....just speculation on my part. Thanks!
  4. Axial Flow engine gear case leak repair question

    SDman, Thanks for the reply and for the bulletin. I think the short life may of been caused by a couple of factors.......aftermarket shaft not hard enough in pilot area and the damping springs too weak in aftermarket drive plate. Ever since I worked on this it seemed to have more rattle/vibration in the belt that runs forward off of the engine out put. To the point that the belt tightener rattle enough at idle that I put a spring on the tail end of the tightener bolt. Also, I thought that the pulley on the end of the shaft had more run out then I should of had. Hopefully OEM parts will correct this. I think I will squeeze a little extra Molycote into the. Thanks again!
  5. Axial Flow engine gear case leak repair question

    The type of lube in the gear box has no bearing on the pilot bushing wear. The only lubrication the pilot bushing get is what it was lubed with when assembled. The procedure for the specked Molycote lube is to apply it to the shaft in the bushing contact area and some to the ID of the bushing. It comes in a small tube and is somewhat expensive. I am thinking if I fill the pilot bushing cavity the lube may be there for a lot longer period of time.
  6. 7250 lazy clutch return

    We have a 7250 in the shop that the customer complains about the clutch pedal not fully returning. He says he has replaced the clutch cable at least 2 times in the last couple of years trying to fix this problem. We have removed the clutch pedal and pivot and cleaned and lubed the pivot and adjusted the cable and pedal stop using a pressure gauge on the master clutch test port. It seems to work OK until you shift above 6th gear. When the master clutch pressure increases to full pressure it will not fully return. It does not take much force to pull it up. It has the cast iron pedal and the black clutch return spring. I know you are not suppose to put the stronger, silver spring on with the cast iron pedal but I have never heard an explanation of why not to use the stronger spring. Anyone know why or ever use the stronger spring with the cast iron pedal? Or do we have something else at play here causing it to not return? Thanks!
  7. 7250 lazy clutch return

    The new, heavier spring seems to of fixed the problem. I still wonder why Case-IH don't want it used on the cast iron clutch pedal. Thanks again! Pat
  8. 7250 lazy clutch return

    OK, thanks for all of the replies and help. Customer says he has put 3 new cables on this thing trying to get it to return. We had already checked/charged the accumulators and while they were a little low, that made no difference. I ordered the 1992620C1 and received it yesterday afternoon and we are going to put it on this morning and see if it fixes the problem. By the way this 1990620C1 spring is painted black, so the color is no longer an indicator of what spring you have. If this does not fix it we will look into adding the springs as suggested by SDman.
  9. I need to replace the fan speed switch in my 7120........can it be accessed from inside the cab (I hope) by removing the switch bezel or do I need to lift the cab roof? Thanks!
  10. 7120 fan speed switch replacement???

    I am pretty sure it is the switch as sometimes you have to turn it a little "off' of the actual position of where it should be to get the fan to run. When you play with it a little you can get it to run on all of the speeds.
  11. 7120 fan speed switch replacement???

    Thanks CIHTECH, that was the info I needed!
  12. I am installing a Ez-shift kit on my very early SN (JJA0002383) 7120 and from what I have read on this site I think it may be a good idea to put the updated 94777C5 shuttle spool in it. The problem is that Case-IH wants $792.00 for this part and I am not wild about spending that kind of money. I have found a salvage yard that shows to have a number of these 94777C5 shuttle valves in stock, but after talking to them they are not sure that what they have are the latest improved design. I have a TSB # NTR SB 086 90 dated 11-20-1990 that talks about the release of this new shuttle spool, but it gives no information on what is different and how you identify the late spool vs. the early spool. Anyone out there been around these enough to know how to tell the difference between the 3 different part numbers? The very early number was 1994569C1 then it went to a 94777C4 which is the one that the TSB references as subbing up to 94777C5. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  13. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    SDman, Yea, I kind of debated if I should mess with the pressures at all. But it is hard to find time to work on my own stuff, so when I do have it in the shop I try to get it 100% . I thought I would see if any of the local dealers even stock the shims it takes for the pressure reducing valve and then decide.
  14. Since I have owned (5-6 years) this 7120, when under a full load there is a weird noise that sounds like it is coming from beside or slightly under the RH side of the cab. I would describe it as kind of ringing-moaning noise. It is strictly load and RPM related. The noise is only there at RPM's between 1900 and 2200 and only under heavy load. The gear the trans is in makes no difference, it just needs to be pull hard enough to lug it down to this RPM range. If the load changes enough for the RPM's to increase above or pull down under this RPM range the noise stops. There is no metal or contamination in the hyd oil or filter. I have inspected the exhaust system for leaks and I cannot see any problems. I am about 100% sure it is not an exhaust manifold gasket. I have also looked the turbo crossover tube, hoses and clamps and the intake over good and do not see any problems there. Tractor pulls good and does not smoke excessively. It does still have the muffler under the hood and although it does not sound like the noise is coming from that far forward, I do wonder about it. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks! Pat
  15. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    I got the valve back together and installed yesterday and so far everything looks good. It sure does pull out of park a LOT easier, which was my main complaint. The regulated pressure is running right around 280 PSI so I may bump that up a little as this thing is turned up some. Also the MC clutch pressure is a little low (140-145) in gears 1-6. In the higher gears it is running at the regulated pressure like it should be. I am hoping bumping the regulated pressure up a little may increase that some too, if not I may have to add shims to the regulator spool springs for it. Thanks to everyone for the help! Pat
  16. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    OK, I have a little more info on this deal. I pulled the shuttle spool out of my valve this morning (something I should of done right away) and it has the slot in one end AND the slotted end is painted/dyed red. I am not sure what this means though as I find no documentation on the color meaning something. I also took a trip to my Worthington Ag Parts store. They have 3 Magnum TCV's in the bin and we looked at the shuttle spools in all there. One had no slots on either end and 2 had slots on one end. The land width and hole configuration looked the same on all of them. I did not remove the inner spool, so I can't say if something is different internally. None of them had any visible coloring on either end. So as of now I am not sure how to tell what the updated one would look like. At least for now I am going to leave my original spool in the valve. I am hoping the red color means something. One other thing we did notice is that one of the valves had a red spring between the plug and spool. Mine and the other 2 at the salvage yard were not colored. At the bottom of page 1 of the 26 page TSB NTR SB 016 96 titled "Troubleshooting the Magnum Transmission Valve" it talks about the skip 1st forward and 1st and 3rd reverse. Here is what it says. " Tractors equipped with EZ shift kits skip 1st forward and 1st and 3rd reverse when shifted into gear from park. This feature allows the operator to skip the slower and often unused 1st speed when starting out. The 1st and 3rd speed gears will be available when down shifting. This characteristic occurs because the detent spool will only receive oil pressure after the L,M,H clutch has been filled (range blocker spool position controls supply to the detent spool, L,M,H and master clutch) This cannot be changed" SDman, my kit came from the Depot obsolete parts warehouse. This was a couple of years ago and I think it was still available from Case-IH, but I could save some money going to the Depot. Thanks to everyone for the help!!
  17. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    SDman, Thanks a lot, that will give me something to have the guys at the salvage yards look for. One place shows to have 5 of them, so maybe they can compare the 5 now that we have some idea of what they are looking for. I saw the reference to the slots going to the spring end on the TSB and wondered if that was something new with the latest valve. Thanks again!
  18. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    Yes, this kit came with a new valve mounting plate, which is the first plate to go on the speed housing. It is the one that the jumper pipes/tubes go into. I had to drill 2 holes in another plate and drill a hole in the valve body and install a check ball and screen. My Bridgeport mill with DRO sure came in handy to accurately drill these holes in the proper location as shown in the prints that came with the kit.The installation procedure is different and more steps are involved for the 2 speed reverse tractors. I am also doing the "increased clamping force" update, so I had to drill out 2 holes in the spacer plate and get 2 longer allen head cap screws. The new valve mounting plate already had the holes drilled and tapped for these longer bolts, so that was already done. I had to purchase the plastic cam separately as it is not in the easy shift kit.
  19. Magnum TCV shuttle spool ID help needed.

    I am installing the OEM easy shift kit in my tcv. Also, I am replacing the plastic shift cam that the detent rollers run on with a new one. I am wanting help in identifying the shuttle spool assy. that goes in the front side of the tcv housing, as I would like to buy this spool assy. used and need to make sure it is the updated one. Thanks!
  20. I am trying to find a part number for this hose on a MX220 SN JJA0118936. This hose connects to the outside fitting of the block that is shown in the picture. This (valve?) block is located at the LH rear of the engine in the air cleaner access door opening and the lines going forward run to the hydraulic oil cooler. I am not sure where the rear end connects, as it disappears under the cab. The MX220 part listing only shows an oil cooler setup for prior to SN JJA0114347 and it looks nothing like what I have. I have looked at the entire parts listing for this MX220 and for every model before and after and nothing looks the same. I cannot find any part number tag or embossed part numbers on. I am sure I could make a hose for it when I get it out, but I would prefer to have one on hand when we get it in the shop, as I may not have the correct ends on hand to build it. Besides, I am stubborn and I want to find the parts listing for this hose to see how I could miss it. Thanks!
  21. Help needed finding part number for this MX220 hose

    Here are a couple of shots of the line.
  22. Help needed finding part number for this MX220 hose

    Yes, I will try to remember to post a picture when we get to working on it. Customer is done with it for the season so it is not hi priority.
  23. Help needed finding part number for this MX220 hose

    For different reason though. It was because the PTO and traction clutch on SR and QR tractors wanted to drag in cold weather. The bypass kit was kind of a band-aid fix. The underlying problem was the fact that the clutch trapped too much lube oil and caused vicious drag with cold oil. We have removed quite a few of the bypass kits after we replaced the clutch in these tractors. We would get the later style parts from a salvage yard as they were pretty expensive new. We were not going into them just to do the update, but for other reasons.
  24. Help needed finding part number for this MX220 hose

    If I was to build it I would replace the hose portion and reuse the steel tube part. I have ends with a steel ferrule connection that works pretty well as long as the tube is fraction/inch and not metric.
  25. Help needed finding part number for this MX220 hose

    I got it! It looks like the lines are a combination of hose and a shaped tube. Probably best to just order the factory line........ I hate cobble jobs! Thanks much!