ComancheStarFarms

English is a tough language to convey abstract “notions.” More so when dealing with almost obsolete technology.

Then it seems as if we’re in good shape. Thank you to all!

Thank you Wild One. Sounds as if we’ll be ok then.

We have a 1026. It seems to be a good tractor but it is new to us. Spreading heavy wet cattle manure up hills it seems to bog down a little - maybe more so than a 1066. I know my description is vague, but right now I’m just trying to get a feel for this “Hydro thing.” Anything to worry about? With that being said do these large frame hydros have enough horses to power the rear end, PTO & if it was a FWD? Thanks! - Jonathan

Thank you!

I overfill up to about a quart. Sort of makes up just a little for not having the vaunted M&W oil pan. I was just trying to determine how much overfill is good before too much. Thanks for your insight.

Thank you 1206. Any reason not to fill a D407 to the higher oil level on a DT407. Just an academic question as we have only the one 407/361 motors & that’s the DT407 in our “10.” And fully understand on the M&W pan - it’s on our dream list along with a Cessna Citation, Rolls Royce, always good weather & fair crop/livestock prices.

I’m looking for an engine oil pan for our 1026. A couple of local old-timers claim there’s a difference depending on tractor model, turbo, etc. Local dealership states that could be true but that any 361 or 407 pan will bolt on. Anyone on this forum confident enough to pitch in & give facts? In the meantime I’m on the hunt for an M&W! Thanks, Jonathan

Great replies! I hadn’t anticipated so many responses. Thanks for the insight & help!

How likely would a good condition IH186 run a Vermeer 605 Super M baler (5’X6’ 1500+ lbs bales)? Vermeer specs require 80PTO HP but recommends 100. Tractor Data states the 186 has 105. Thoughts?

Probably time to figure out what’s the new definition of Patriotism - - and where each of us are in the lineup.

A great big help by all of you. I’ll start & recheck all the above. Thanks!

We have a 5088 with poor quality air conditioning. Blower pushes plenty of air, A couple of bottles of R134 gets ingested each summer, we’ve run die through the lines with no leaks appearing, replaced with new filters, took the top of the cab off & cleaned and still tepid cool air - barely workable for a couple days of baling hay & then back to a sweatbox. I’ve talked to two different former IH dealerships & though friendly, they’re no better than I - and obviously I’m not an A/C mechanic otherwise I wouldn’t be throwing myself to you asking for help. Suggestions? Happy Thanksgiving!

Stunningly impressive by all of you - thanks!

I’m impressed with all three of you! Not to whine but if the set screw is broken off (which it clearly looks like it is) then it likely is broken without leaving anything to grab onto to remove it. Any suggestions on how to get the stub out of there? And how wise is it that if everything still works then just leave as is & walk away from it? Thanks again!

That’s great help. Evidently it must be important otherwise it wouldn’t exist. Does it need to be reinstalled? Once the top link cover is removed how do I find where it goes? This one seems to be broken - is the original longer? I really appreciate your help!

We’re about ready to start using the 1026 that we recently bought. Everything seems to check out fine. Herrs has been a huge help - got the test gauge set & the updated filter setup. This evening as I was replacing all the hydraulic drain plugs in prep for refilling with Viscosity HyTran a 1” x 1/4” broken bolt fell out of the rear end center drain plug. Here’s a few photos of the bolt/screw. One end is hollow for about 3/8” deep & the other is solid but looks broken off. Any idea what this is? What likely happened? How bad is my new problem? Thanks - I hope! - Jonathan

Some will say that you won’t have enough hands to operate tractor & loader controls. Guess that depends on type of loader (2250?) & how controls are setup. Others will say that an IH Hydro is their favorite tractor. Maybe not the best for heavy draft work due to energy consumption of going through the hydraulic transmission? Any serious questions I’d call Herrs in Washington, KS & if you ever have mechanical problems turn the tractor over to them. We have a 1026 & like it more every time we fire it up - but it’s a hayfield, bush hog, manure tractor. I think if the tractor looks good after you inspect it - - and you don’t buy it then they’ll be plenty on this forum wanting contact info.

Travis, I’ll look for part numbers tomorrow on all 4 of our IH tractors - - never noticed a part number before. HydroTek, is the PTO shaft “mostly submerged” for factory fill spec or is that for the additional 5 gallon overfill? I thought the conventional wisdom view on RPF was to overfill the 1026 by 5 gallons? Thanks, Jonathan

What’s the proper specifications for determining the proper hydraulic fluid level in a 56, 66, 26 series tractor? While some of you might be laughing I’ve recently discovered variations in markings on dipsticks. And IDK if dipsticks are interchangeable, such as a 656 dipstick fits nicely in a 1066 fill port with correct markings for both (or any older IH) tractors? There must be a more accurate specification than hoping the new purchase of an older tractor has the correct dipstick markings (and maybe somebody didn’t fabricate their own markings). Is there a spec for a specific distance from the top of the fill port or from the bottom of the reservoir to the proper level of fluid? This becomes even more involved with a 1026 having “standard” advice being an extra 5 gallons of Viscosity HyTran (or whatever fluid one desires) should be used. Not only could the hydraulic level be an issue but engine oil level would be a consideration in its own right.

Thanks BrahamFireman!

For $110 you can send the original to the Farmall shop and havea really nice working factory gauge instead of the tacky $65 carguage sheetmetal screwed to the hood. Contact info for “the Farmall shop” please. The only thing close that I could find was “Precision - a CNH subsidiary.” Thanks! - Jonathan

1026 wiring diagram? Thanks!

IowaBoy1965, I’ve never been disappointed by this forum or the help by members. However, I’m stunned by what you’ve provided. That’s my machine exactly! Very impressive on your part & I appreciate your help! I do have a suggestion - your call sign should be “IowaBoy1865!” - Jonathan

Can anyone identify this machine?