ComancheStarFarms

Thank you both!

I agree on the heavy hammer. Didn’t want to and couldn’t believe it would take such a blow to get it out. After the first inch it popped out & subsequent insertions & removals were smooth & easy. As I mentioned, after inserting the first time hydraulic activation wasn’t fixed. Second insertion & it worked fine. We’ve been using it now for about 10 days and all seems perfect - though I’m standing by for the final results of the heavy banging it took to free it. Thanks - Jonathan

1) A big correction on the bumps that I’ve got lined up on the Titan 16-38 wheel. Only eight & not ten. Sorry for my incorrect statement. 2) The other rear wheel has fewer bumps & only two land on bumps. Any advice on that - good to go or not? 3) I used to work for a wheat farmer in western Oklahoma. I don’t recall any salvage yards of note west of I-35 & that was when every section or two had a JD 4020-5020, Case 930-1030-1270 or IH 56/66 series tractors. I’ll watch in case someone identifies an OK yard. - Jonathan

Since I don’t remember ever driving an IH tractor needing a seat adjustment then how often is it used? Thanks for the big help - $99 is a bargain compared to a complete seat base! Thanks a bunch Neal! - Jonathan

Very good to know! Thank you!

The double bevel 16-38 wheel/rims is more complicated as time goes on for these 50 year old tractors. Yes, plenty out there. Sadly, plenty of misunderstandings. I wanted the Titan wheel because all 10 bumps line up with the IH cast center bolts. But Titan stopped production. The wheel to be replaced only had two bumps line up even though it had lots of bumps to choose from. Lots of talking & swapping of photos didn’t much help in getting sorted. None of the “any farm tire shop . . . “ knew anything about the two different clamps & two owners tried to convince me that the difference in clamps is for different wheel sizes. Finally went with a wheel that only two bumps lined up - the wheel that came with the new-to-us 186 as money is always an issue & couldn’t find anything much better, bump wise. Now hoping that two bumps will suffice. But as we all know - hope isn’t a plan. Thanks for the photos of proper clamps & owners manual directions. 7and8and1456!

Hard a hard time removing spool - heavy hammer on front after removing block connecting linkage. Nothing looked amiss. Put back together & inserted it. Still not working - something not lined up. Much easier removal the second time. Put together second time & inserted it. Worked like new. Little ball “bearings” fun to keep track of. For those interested in the “feel” aspect - it now feels like any 56/66 series tractor. Thanks for the help.

$1500 - wow! Thanks to you both. Should be straight forward.

Thank you Neal. I’ll relook at it in the morning with your insight. Now with that said I thought the hand or finger lever was for that purpose - raise the hand lever & the latch is released from the gear mechanism & thus allowing the seat to go up & back and down & forward, but for a specific distance depending on where the hand lever inserts the “cog?” - Jonathan

Have a worn out seat on a large frame 1970 56 series tractor. Rebuilding it. Sure seems as if a couple of clever folks tried to build a better mouse trap when designed by the factory pros. Would RP Forum experts describe how the long foot lever on the left side (behind the driver’s left heel) functions properly? What is its purpose? Mine seems to not do anything which includes not moving. Thanks!

Have a worn out seat on a large frame 1970 56 series tractor. Rebuilding it. Sure seems as if a couple of clever folks tried to build a better mouse trap when designed by the factory pros. Would RP Forum experts describe how the long foot lever on the left side (behind the driver’s left heel) functions properly? What is its purpose? Mine seems to not do anything which includes not moving. Thanks!

I would think worth much more than scrap price. If you’re not interested then post the general location & folks on here would enjoy saving it. And if close to me I’d even be interested. - Jonathan

Thank you!

Obviously you’re correct on key switch terminology. “Off,” “Run” & “Start.” I mistook the “Run” for “Acc.” I don’t know where the power for pins #1 & #9 comes from but when the key is in the “Run” position they are supposed to have power. Status as of this morning is that in the “Run” key position #9 has power & #1 is intermittent. Still no sign of life from the new Digital-Tach panel from Ag Express - who says that they no longer use the #9 pin. And I still have tackled our 1026 hydraulic detent problem!

Still not trying to take this thread but I’m still trying to get the digital tachometer panel powered up. Ag Express sent me a new panel - slightly different looking from the original but that won’t make a difference. Replaced the fuses, solenoid & circuit breaker below steering wheel. Still can not get power to the new tach panel - pins 1 & 9 should be hot with key in accessories position but they’re dead - unless the engine is started & they become powered on but doesn’t power up the tach panel. Any suggestions?

I like the Johnny Cash truck, too. Just sold a similar one that I’ve had for many years but with no real use - had/has a real sweet DT466 in it, all with less than 60,000. Those seem to be another example of the strong performance of IHC. I’ve noticed in the short time that I’ve been a part of this forum community there are a few overly opinionated “experts” that quickly comment on a tangential aspect of the original poster’s question-point for no apparent reason. I’ve gotten a lot of good help from you folks & some humor from a few know-it-all people. Hope everyone enjoys Sedalia. Chapter 1 goes a great job of hosting. And for a little distraction both the Bothwell Mansion & Ravenwood Mansion are worth a quick visit. Be safe.

I’ll go to work on removing it. Unless it falls out in a bunch of parts I may not know what it is supposed to look like when functioning properly & therefore won’t know if something is amiss. Any suggestions as to what to look for? Thanks - particularly Snoshoe & HydroTek.

Snoshoe, I’m willing to do that. Can you ID what the “spool” is and what/where the “assembly from the rear?”

It seems as if it is the normal throw or distance of the piston - in Pic 1, with handle raised, I don’t think the piston can go any further into the housing.

Seat & cover plate removed. Nothing amiss visually. Started tractor (IH1026) & raised the single hydraulic lever - no response, no felt pressure & no sound. Placed lever in neutral & the tractor sounded as if the hydraulics were being activated - just as on our 966 when the lever is up or down. Placed lever in the lower position & once again no response, sound, pressure - just dead. On top of that regardless of position of the lever no remote implement movement - as if zero fluid was activated. When the lever is released it stays it whatever position it was placed in - no return to neutral. Pic 1 shows handle raised & piston in, Pic 2 is neutral & piston is out about 3/8” & Pic 3 is lowered and piston out about 5/8”. Any further ideas where to start?

Straanger - you are so correct - I misread the date of the year. I certainly didn’t mean to distract from the intent of the thread or my suggestion that if the model of tractor in question’s info isn’t being shared that maybe the log could be picked up by someone else. Please excuse my irrelevant comment about “quickly gotten to be a long thread.” - Jonathan

If the Tri-Stripe question was for me it is not - just a 1979 model.

I fully agree with SimplyIH. If someone wants to collect serial numbers for their private consumption that’s fine. Let’s just identify which model tractor that is & see if someone else wants to start tracking in the fashion of Brad & SimplyIH. This has quickly gotten to be a long thread so my apologies if someone else already jumped on the obvious.

Do all 186s have a hexagonal rear axle housing or did it change during the production run?