ComancheStarFarms

Paraphrasing HydroTek - - Rule of Thumb if the radiator has lead solder -- use the old green if the radiator is plastic -- then OAT or HOAT The main thing is flush the system and use only one type of coolant pick one that best suits your system and is available I recommend the Prestone for the older tractors https://prestone.com/product/prestone-all-vehicles-antifreezecoolant-ready-to-use/ https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/caseih/category/fluids-lubricants/coolant/antifreeze/p/73344303

Sure!

I don’t mean to butt into this conversation & if you want me to I’ll start a new thread - - but our Hydro186 tachometer & everything on that 5”X5” digital data panel quit working. I took it out & at one time Ag Express had repaired it (repair sticker on backside). The bundle pin plug from the tractor (female side) was completely dead with key both off or on accessories. But with tractor engine running pin ports #1 & #9 tested hot. I called Ag Express & they stated they don’t repair them anymore & that they don’t have any new ones. Later, after hours, I found out that Ag Express has three locations so hopefully the other two can help out. Any recommendations? With pins 1 & 9 being hot does that indicate the data unit is bad. Or is there something else to troubleshoot to determine if the tractor is the problem? Thanks as always!

Please disregard - I just stumbled across another RPF thread where HydroTek gives clear direction. Thanks for good conversation - frustrating that coolant is such a challenge.

How about a recommendation on the best green coolants to use? And where to get it?

I did not get to our 1026 today so I don’t have an update on the hydraulic lever positioning. Hitting hay time is my feeble excuse. HydroTek is observant - the top link plate looks homemade. I noticed that when I bought it. Previously owner was selling the tractor for his late father & didn’t know anything about it. The rest of the 3-point hitch looks factory - for whatever thats worth.

Snoshoe - The lever travel is the same as the other tractors but performs abnormal functions. The handle is always in the down position unless it is pulled up. And when pulling up there is a clear middle position & clear up position. However as soon as the lever is released it returns to the full down position. Tomorrow I’ll look into what’s happening under the cover. Appreciate your thoroughness. 7&8&1456 - The owners text will be a big help.

Just a quick update for today - but have not removed cover under seat behind driver’s heels yet. With engine off there seems to be only two lever positions - forward & back. Not sure if forward is actually forward or just an indefinite neutral. With engine running there seems to be 3 lever positions - once again forward equals no PSI, middle position (which on all our other tractors is neutral with no PSI) strong PSI & fully up (or back) and weak PSI. I’ll dig around under seat tomorrow. Thanks to all - including taking the tractor off my hands!

Ok - will do - thanks a bunch!

Good help by you two! Now how about nomenclature - which part is the valve, spool, cover, (others?)? I posted a picture that I think displays two hydraulic couplings on the left, a hex headed “pipe” and two ports plugged by indented caps. Which one do I dig into first? I’ll try the tractor in the morning with engine off & report back to you. I appreciate the help!

Not sure 6500PSI easily & not sure at half throttle either. I’ll check - thanks for the spec!

What you explain is what our 966 does - since we bought that tractor a dozen years ago. Works great. The 1026 does not. Throw handle forward nothing, Pull up into “neutral” and strong PSI out of 1 coupler, Pull handle fully up & weak PSI. What might be misaligned or out of adjustment?

New to us a 1026. Seems like a solid tractor. This forum has helped me with a few aspects that are new to me - never drove/had a hydro before. I’m convinced with having just this one Hydro that Hydros are very handy. My issue - it just seems as if the tractor is slow - and for no reason that I can determine. PSIs on the unit are firmly in specs, linkages sure seem to be tight, no dragging brakes, 407 sure turns the augers easily. As an example when driving (not pulling anything) on a level road in the high range it probably doesn’t get to 12 MPH. I don’t intend to make this a racing machine but am using the road speed as an example. Take it a step further & low range is almost too slow to rake or mow hay & high range isn’t meant to work hard (correct?). Any ideas what to look for?

1970 1026 - first summer using it so there’s a fair amount of ignorance on my part. In this case I think this is just a 56 hydraulic remote issue. This tractor has a single remote & as usual it’s on the backside between the dual PTO unit & the driver’s seat. Throw the hydraulic lever forward & it seems as if that is the neutral position - no obvious pressure anywhere. Pull the handle up & it passes through a detent in what I expect to be a neutral position - strong PSI comes out one of the couplers. Pull the handle all the way back & it has weak PSI - almost neutral like. What am I doing wrong or what is wrong with the hydraulic system? Thanks - Jonathan

As with most things - there are folks who are truly experts. These folks work their specialty every single day, year in & year out. Most of us encounter these special situations only once (or a small handful times) in our lifetimes. Easy to not understand what we’re doing when negotiating with an expert. And then our defensiveness begins to blame others. Good bedside manner doesn’t equate to great competence. This holds true for teachers, welders, neighbors, physicians, accountants & lawyers. Just because “he’s such a nice guy” or “she’s a sweetheart” doesn’t guarantee professionalism in handling “your” situation. When it comes to solar power “farms” my recommendation is to turn to Counselor Brent Stuckey for legal advice. He sure worked for me - to such a strong extent that many of the horror stories above could have been easily avoided. And a fair return could have been reaped.

Thank you 7&8&1456 and 560 - good info/ideas by both of you.

A lot of truth to that & been there done that. But this time I’m in front of the time line. Thanks again.

Thanks everyone! Matt clearly restated my objective - evidently better than I. I called a dozen so called tractor tire dealerships & everyone had an excuse as to why they don’t have the Titan wheel - and they were authorized dealers/distributors. Fair enough, just a little surprising that it takes such an effort to really not get anywhere. Titan website isn’t the best but after calling several of the phone numbers at Titan I finally got hold of “Bob” & he was A+! He knew how to find the model of Titan double bevel 16-38 that I was looking for & at a great price. Additionally he, authoritatively, explained the logic behind all the knobs, which ones line up with various cast-centers & the difference between the JD & IH setup. Thanks again to all & I appreciate Matt explaining my request.

Just purchased a new 1979 86 series tractor. One rear tire & wheel in like new condition. The other rear tire & wheel are shot. If reasonably possible I’d like to match the “keeper” rear wheel by finding its mate - a Titan 38XWH16A (0419474 00). I can’t find one at any of our local tire shops nor on the internet. Granted I must be looking in the wrong area. Where do I find a Titan 16-38 double bevel wheel - and not yellow! Thanks up front!

Thanks Matt & HydroTek - good help. I was just on the phone with Mike at RRR this afternoon & had forgotten that he was doing cab parts - - that’s a big help IHC1470! - Jonathan

I’m looking at a 986 with the non-turbo 436. Previous owner(s) installed a turbo. How can I tell if it’s working or not & if so making a difference. No dyno close at hand so need some sharp shade tree advice. Additionally, the back left corner on the cab has a dent. No impact in operation however if it is an easy “remove & replace” fix then I’ll look at doing that. Thanks in advance! - Jonathan

Two wrongs don’t make a right. Cartridge is probably less waste even if there is other or more waste elsewhere. But I certainly do like the spin on vs all the problems I seem to create when trying to seat the darn cartridge, gaskets, spilled oil, etc.

Thanks to all. I was just trying to develop an approach to looking/checking out a tractor that reduces the “it’s a gamble” factor. Trying to assess these once great & now sometimes great tractors, is increasingly less fact based & more subjective. Obviously we all know there are no guarantees (well except for two) in life. But making informed decisions usually is less risky than going in blind. Sort of like MLB.

Anyway to identify a 400 series reman from SRC when they did a reliable job vs when they went downhill? Different ID tags, or location placement, etc? Thanks! - Jonathan